agunslinger Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 I want to make sure I dont disparage the company. This is just to relate my experience x 2. It is a nicely made product that helps short arm short people feel more comfortable on the bike. Great design and powdercoating. But I had some issues with install that I think sharing my experience might help others. I feel the product could use some slightly larger holes and slightly better alignment with the stem holes. As per the instruction (photo five, step 4 instructions here ) I put the bottom M8x20 button head screws in snug. Takes some riser jiggling to get them to just screw in with ease without binding. Because the bottom didnt go in total clean I then test fit the top socket head ones just to be sure. Couldn't get one of the top socket head ones to sit down past its riser hole. Was about an 1/8 inch proud. Loosened all the bolts and checked how all 4 holes aligned with the stock bottom mount holes. No matter how you put it, one hole was ever so slightly misaligned. That was probably what was keeping the one bolt from seating below helibar surface and maybe the one button head from just spinning in freely. After very careful slowly turning all 4 in, slightly jiggling the riser when a bolt started binding (edge of bolt coming in contact with riser hole) I was able to get all for to seat without much resistance. First tip: So for starters, I would recommend NOT tightening tightening the bottom button tops to torque first. Get them all well seated by hand, then tighten bottoms. I then used my Snapon torque wrench to set bottom button head to 17 (instructions say 16-18; specs are 19). Right at the very end of 16, near 17, the hex hole begins to strip. I feel it start but just got to the 17 torque wrench click before it started to round. (Binding on bolt head on riser hole again?). Bummer, but its in. Get the rest buttoned up, only take second bottom one to 16 this time . Looks good. Test the left right bar turns to stops to check cables. Notice that clutch is a little bit tight. Also notice that if I had run the clutch cable in front of the risers it would be better. Second tip: make sure the clutch cable is in front of the risers. OCD takes over so I start to take it apart to reposition clutch cable. Get to that previously mentioned bottom button head. Start to back it out and strips rest of way. Sweet baby Jesus. Again, I think when the risers are on one of the bottom bolts will always be touching the inside wall of the riser hole - increasing the torque and resistance. Fortunately I remember a motocross friend telling me to use the same size Torx bit in a stripped hex head. Fortunately, with a little angle I got it to back out. Phew. Order two more pan heads from Helibar, and got some extras off Amazon same spec, zinc coated. Go to re-assemble the riser. Having learned this time I am again really careful to make sure the 4 bolts seat below proud on the risers and seat in without much resistance - more slight jiggling to get this to happen. Again, one bolt always slightly touching edge of hole increasing tension. I get to the same right lower button head and again just before 17 starts to strip and round out. WTH! Fortunately, I got the click of 17 on the torque wrench before totally spun out on me. But I guarantee, if I have to back it out in the future it is not going to go without a fight again. So there you have it. Ive been working on motocross bikes and street bikes for awhile. While I cant say human error might not be involved, I really dont thinks thats the case. Obviously other shave had no issues. Maybe a slightly off spec batch? I also dont think its my tools. Proto hex bits, Snapon torque wrench. I think the machining of the risers might be slightly off, not allowing all 4 bolt heads to NOT be in contact with the edge of the hole. Again, the risers look great, feel great, but be warned should you do this install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 something is very wrong with those fasteners. Like they didn't get hardened. It's one thing to round out a hex in 6061, but 7075 aluminum and steel should take a major amount of force. 17ft/lb is firm hand tight. Forget the torque wrench and can you round them out without getting carried away? Surely there is a hardware store near you where you can source replacement bolts. Either their CNC program is wrong or somebody has a vise/jig set up incorrectly (or part was flipped over?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agunslinger Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 First bolts were from the company Helibar. Second set were from elsewhere. Actually no replacements here at the big box stores, for button heads anyway. Plenty of socket head types. I could splurge and get a set from Fastenal. But Im apprehensive about having to try to get it back out again since I finally have the bars on. But, my OCD may force me to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 try https://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=19d5cgj Hmm, should have read the cited instructions. I'm going to guess those bolts are potentially proprietary - ie have a much smaller head than standard sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agunslinger Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 Thanks for the link. Will get some in case I decide to battle the bolt again. Still deciding. The McMastr equivalent would probably be https://www.mcmaster.com/#94500a244/=19d5i2f Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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