RaYzerman

With today's modern long life coolants, every 5 years is plenty on a bike..... or at valve check time.  Just use common sense with the maintenance schedule and recognize some are revenue generators like the all-too-frequent spark plug changes......

FYI, you can get in-between "half sizes".... ProX shims from RockyMountainATV.

A decent stabilizer is naptha, a slow-acting solvent that dissolves gums over time.  Add a couple ounces of isopropanol, and it will take care of any water in the fuel.  I basically just described Seafoam, ~40% naptha and ~30% isopropanol.  It's all I ever use as stabilizer in an FI bike, never an issue firing it up in the spring.

On 11/2/2022 at 11:13 AM, Seafz8 said:

I can’t use grip puppies or anything like that. It’s a hand injury thing combined with age. I have a specific grip that works for me. Thanks though. 

Do you have a pic of the specific grip you want to use..... I might have suggestions.....

Agree, let it sleep, bro.  Don't be starting it up until spring.......

You can pair the Sena with either, but if you have only one BT channel, you have to pick which........

Sena to XT, XT to phone, OR Sena to phone, phone to XT.

IF you have two BT channels on the Sena, you can pair both XT and phone to it.  Plus phone to XT if you like.

LOL, I know this guy with some FJR bags that should hang right on to that Tracer 900 (if the brackets are there on non-GT)..... if you want them back, lemme know.  Or, if you want the smaller GT (22L) 'city' cases, I can keep my eyes open.

For those with two-wire BAU15S (the pins have a 15 degree offset, so unique...... the bulb number is 7507.  First, replace the bulbs with the Superbrite 7507.  I recommend amber because that is the most visible and shows up better than white (if you have clear lenses).  If amber lens, be sure to use amber LED.  I haven't found anything brighter than Superbright's..... check the spec for lumens on anything to compare.  If you really want to get into it, find the size/output of the SMD's and count how many.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=bau15s

To have single contact bulb operate as running lights and signals, use the module supplied by 12O'Clock Labs (there are others out there)......

http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=38&product_id=70

Edit/add - I have some Superbrite 7507's here I can measure up and post later.....  Don't appear to be as long as the ones in piotrek's link...

You mean POLL, lol.

Sorry dunno how unless there's pre-determined link in the forum..

The X-Arc's look interesting but they can't supply (yet).  I've had very good success by just replacing bulbs with Superbrite LED bulbs......  asking for a friend, (North American w/front running lights), can anyone tell me what bulbs are in the signals front and back, that is, 7443 wedge base or 2057 type base, or ??

OK I'll take them.  Can pick them up since I'm close.  PM sent.

Hey, Rick, is that C$500?  Thanks.

I'd vote if it's not leaking, I'd at least double that recommendation.  No you can't do this yourself, perhaps find a local suspension shop that rebuilds shocks.

The oil doesn't go bad, but the seal can leak.  There's also a bladder and a nitrogen gas charge requiring special equipment.

Any bike with a clock, trip odometers and other computers will have a parasitic drain..... bottom line, connect up to a Battery Tender if it's going to sit a week or more.

Accelerated Tech is the go to for me.

I've been using a remote controller for years, the original version has a CR2032 battery.  It's never failed, and if I'd just put fresh batteries in it a month ago it would have been fine.  I usually change the batteries once a year.

I have the 90W W&S jacket liner, and combined with pant liner and socks, gloves on their own part of the circuit.... I went on a Coldest Ride Contest the other day, clocked in at -12C or 10.4F.  One of the keys is to ensure you have a windproof liner or better yet, a rain suit over top.  Snug fitting heated gear is a good thing.  I was OK but wondering why the heated gear wasn't hotter.... forgot to check the AA batteries in the W&S remote, so I was running at 30%.  I was warm enough, but fingers got a little cold.  Good thing I had heated grips too....  put fresh batteries in!!

To get sequentials to work, you'll have to slow the flash rate down some more.  You could try more resistors, however, a proper LED capable flasher might be a necessity.  I'd go for that first.

How many miles on these forks?  This can determine whether you need to go whole hog or a partial.  I have not specifically done Tracer forks but they're not all that complicated by the looks of it.  I'm sure some Tracer-experienced guy will come along soon.......

Read up on the service manual procedure.... depending on how far you go will depend on tools needed.  There are aftermarket tools or many times you can make your own.

Whole hog - total disassembly, optional take cartridges out, but replace bushings and seals.  Bushings may be damaged on disassembly.

Partial - only springs, flush and fresh oil, no seal or bushing replacement (thus minimal disassembly), uisually low mileage so bushings are not worn

Buy the fork spring compressor and wrench tools, definitely necessary, have a third hand to help you compress the springs.  You can swap out springs with only this.  Many places to buy these.

New springs may not be same length as OEM, thus you could be making new spacers, adding preload washers or.... follow instructions of the spring maker.

If seals are leaking, you need to disassemble further by slide hammering apart, could damage bushings, so the seal and bushing kit recommended as far as parts go.

Cartridge removal - IF you're doing this, first loosen the bolt at the bottom of the forks, before you remove the top fork cap.  You most likely need a cartridge holding tool, which can be DIY in the thread below.  You only need to remove it to upgrade valving or installing aftermarkets.  In my experience, most USD forks do not have dirty oil, thus I'd drain and flush with some fresh fork oil, then add new oil.  IMHO, no need to remove cartridges unless you absolutely need to or are replacing them.

Before you take the forks off the bike, loosen top pinch bolt and loosen fork cap until the upper O-ring is exposed.  Easier now than later (in a vice). 

Once off (and cartridge bolt loosened if you're going there), undo fork cap and drain the oil.  Then proceed with the remainder of disassembly, flush with solvent if oil dirty, then with some fresh oil, drain and refill to desired oil level (spring manufacturer recommendation) but no higher than OEM level.

Use oil volume as rough guide, but do a physical level check..... fork compressed, no springs, from top of fork tube to oil.... OEM spec. 175mm.  You can vary this (down) if you want more air gap.  No need to be perfectly precise a mm or two means nothing.

IF you're doing seals and bushings, need bushing and seal driver tools..... make your own from plumbing fittings and PVC or ABS pipe, whatever fits ID of bushings and OD of seals.... use old bushings/oil seal retaining washers as tools to drive bushings (hint order an extra oil seal washer).

IF this is a low miler bike and seals not leaking, I'd just put in my new oil and springs and call it a day.  If the seals leak or if you simply want new ones,  then go whole hog.

https://www.fz09.org/threads/diy-damper-rod-holder-tool.64128/

Smart man to reshim until all uniform, bike will smooth out...... yes you should do a TB sync, as that changes when valve clearances are changed.

As for "set for life", from what I read, I'd do a second check down the road at or beyond the next interval and verify if they changed to any appreciable degree.... I get the impression from some discussions on the subject with regard to this engine that they do.  If anyone has real data on that subject, that would be helpful.

Warm&Safe guy here.  Yes you can.  Also recommended to wash by hand and air dry.  Wires are soldered at some point together if you have heating wires, or the modern ones have carbon pad elements.  My W&S has been folded ever which way..... but never abused.

Perhaps you should change the thermostat and see if that makes a difference.

It won't be the shims, they wear extremely little.  Same with cam lobes and buckets.  It will be the heads of the valves cupping mostly and they may be titanium (as opposed to titanium coated).  In any case, sounds like best check that first time early, and then a regular interval to see how it's going.

If you've done a lot of valve checks, seems at least Yammy and Kawi shoot for nominal at best at the factory, and never really go over that.

It appears no section in the service manual about testing the thermostat..... if it's a 160F-185F typical thermostat, then it starts to open at 160 and fully open at 185... you may see fluctuations when the coolant temperature at the thermostat reaches 160 or above as the thermostat cycles.  The temperature readings are taken from the coolant temp sensor on the cylinder head, and with advent of digital readouts, you're going to see more fluctuations than we did in the analog days.

The McCruise is the bee's knees.  Just did the same this year on my V1K, got a (rare) used one for a very good price.  It had all the original kit.... instructions were 57 pages, lol.  Lotsa reading but a very methodical install, just follow what they say.