RaYzerman

New lids available in other years, just no more 2014 red.  2013, greenish tan, 2015 charcoal, 2016 blue, etc.  If you want logos, go to 2012 or earlier FJR.  They fall off the chrome strips when the sun heats up the crap hot melt glue they used.

On 8/11/2023 at 7:02 PM, piotrek said:

You could just opt to use the system as you would a standard CC... with little traffic and all moving at decent speed. I like it in my car, but as soon as things slow down enough for me to need to shift down a gear or two, I defeat it and wait until things open up again. It was a bit of a learning curve for sure. Lane changes and passing especially. Having said all that... I am curious how this would feel/work on a motorcycle.

 Unfortunately as robzilla posted above, it's either ACC or no cruise, no choice.  Same for the radar unified braking.... you're stuck with what they give you.  So, no GT+ for me, and IMHO they should have brought the GT model here as a choice.  I'd recommend reading the owner's manual pages for full description of features.

Two things on the FJR..... if they weren't installed correctly, they could come off.  Double check once they're on and latched.  You should never have a problem.

Some accidentally abused the mechanism that brings the tongue up to retain them.  That can skip a tooth and result in the tongue not protruding far enough. 

Some panicked and drilled and pinned the bottom mount.

On 8/10/2023 at 10:24 AM, Toei said:

Thanks @robzilla, you're right it looks like ACC or nothing (no standard CC mode).  

That just plain sucks.  Very short sighted not to have regular cruise for those of us who dislike adaptive cruise and want to avoid the situations it can put you in.  I don't like it in my car, and  I won't be buying one of these bikes.  If you read the manual section thoroughly, you'll see disclaimers and situations where it won't necessarily work, or cause you danger.

In the car industry, if an option (e.g., GPS or fog lights) was turned on, it stays turned on for subsequent owners... after all, it was paid for by the previous guy.

With the Tracer, I'd have been happy to see the restyle with 30 litre saddlebags, regular cruise and improved fully adjustable suspension (manual)... similar to what Suzi did with the later V-Stroms.... new styling, tweaked fuel mapping/torque curves and improved on the already known proven suspension...... stayed a bit conservative on other things, you know the bike, and it just got better.  Now wait, who asked for those spoked wheels, I didn't, lol.  Dual sport wannabe's, like you're going off road much on one of those.  Marketing is sometimes humourous.  I'd still like to see the results of a survey if one were out there.

I have ACC in my car, I dislike it and don't find it particularly useful and it can be unsafe at times.  Definitely wouldn't want it on a bike, but hey, willing to hear reviews from actual users.

Perhaps put it another way.... what is your ideal bike these days, in this segment...... mine is cruise control non-ACC, ABS brakes, good adjustable suspension (non-electronic), saddlebags, a good seat (virtually no motorcycle has a good factory seat), a good dash layout that keeps it simple and not having to play with it like a tablet... then price it accordingly.  In other words, just make it functional and not a gizmo-mobile.  Remember the pricing on the 2020 GT was C$15,300.  Now they want nearly $21k for a bike that has features one doesn't need or want.  That takes this one right off my list of potential bikes.  Which begs the question, has any bike manufacturer surveyed anyone to see what they really want?

Getting a little to junked up.... do not need or want ACC or radar braking, nor the C$20,700 price.  Yes it needed a new display the prior split screens were "weird".  Keep it simple Yamaha, who do you think you are competing with, BMW?

Not a fan of adaptive cruise, car or bike..... good only if you're staying in your own lane and just want to keep pace with traffic slowing down or speeding up.  Boring....

If you are switching lanes to pass, then it can mess you up as there's a lag.  If you are coming up on somebody and it applies the brakes, then you decide to change lanes, it has to find the new car in front, and meanwhile, Joe is coming up on your tail.... meh.  Keep that crap.

Try all that while towing a trailer..... I can tell you it sucks.  We don't need it on bikes, it can be dangerous.

Now that you have the system full with the vac bleeder, put it away and bleed the traditional way...

There is a hook-shaped wrench for such adjustments, depending on the shock.... unknown if the ring is accessible when installed on the bike.  Perhaps someone else can answer that.  If not, then likely no choice but to remove it, tweak the adjustment, reinstall and try it.  However, measure your sag once first installed, that should give you an initial direction.

If you bought the shock new, then I presume you had it sprung for your weight, so should be in the ballpark right away.

Either one is OK, prices in the ballpark..  The one with the tail tidy...... crap will be all over the bottom of that top box.....

Switch up to Honda aluminum drain plug washers..... snug up to 18-20 ft. lbs.  Will last you a long time unless you overtorque them and they wrap around the drain plug.

Overfilling would have to be crazy to get up to that level... and it doesn't really cause any "pressure" change.  If pressure pushed the seal out, check that crankcase breather as suggested, make note if the amount of oil in the airbox is excessive.  Perhaps a new seal will be a snugger fit.

BTW, what is the mileage on this beast.  Should you perhaps to a compression and leakdown test to see how much blow-by you're getting into the crankcase?

Loosen off clutch cable, remove circlip and you should be able to remove the washer, lever and spring, then can get at the seal........ best refer to parts diagram as the service manual isn't all that specific.

There is no thread locking compound, the screw assembly consists of a tiny brass washer and o-ring, a spring, and the screw.  The screw is held in place by spring pressure........ same concept on every bike.

They shouldn't be hard to turn, but sometimes brass and aluminum can develop bi-metal corrosion...... however, once moving, one can hope they turn easier.  What I recommend is to remove the throttle bodies for better access, and with a better screwdriver, note position and number of turns to remove.  If you remove the painted one, be sure to count and put it back to where it was.  I'm not sure whether on this bike Yamaha sets the reference screw fully in or not (as is on the FJR with throttle by wire)......

In any event, remove the screws and put a light coating of grease on the threads, that should fix you up.  It may be possible the extra hard one was fully seated.  IF your throttle sync was still a bit off (wishing you could turn it in more), then leave that one seated (your new reference) and back off the others to get a match, even if the painted one must be moved out somewhat (likely not much, maybe 1/8-1/4 turn).  It just means your new reference screw is the one that's fully seated (again, if that was the intent for one to be seated as reference).  The whole idea is to have them sync'ed evenly.

On 4/23/2023 at 4:29 PM, Lone Wolf said:

Just did that and hit the wall. Looked at the details of the route properties, Basecamp "loses" the shaping points when it converts a track to a route. The route will appear OK on your computer screen in Basecamp, but if you dig deep into the properties of your route, the shaping points are gone and on the road your route is likely to be A to B, straight to destination.

 

Not sure if this applies, but in Basecamp you need to set up your Motorcycling profile and use that (vs. Direct).  I believe there also is a setting to hide shaping points, and need to uncheck that.  The shaping points (unannounced waypoints) should be listed once you open the route to show all your waypoints.

For all you GTA guys, have you heard of the Icehouse Restaurant in Campbellville..... every weekend, particularly Sundays, many bikes of all stripes have been gathering for years..... meet up for coffee and go for a ride if you like.  Some go for lunch at the Trail Eatery if in the area.  

I've been all the places you've mentioned so far....... used to live in Orangeville, moved closer to Campbellville for a while, now out in the boonies of Flamborough.

The 2023 has not been released in North America.......... reportedly leftover 21's and 22's to get rid of.....

For occasional use, FroggToggs are fine.  Best rain suit for me, Olympia Horizon will keep you dry in frog stranglers and have a handy hood to put under your helmet.  Lots of adjustment, they fit big and are meant as overgarments, so order one size down from your normal.  Vented, so you don't sweat to death.

If the bike has been lowered, it will stand up straighter....... is that why it tipped over on the right side?

Most bikes lean 10-12 degrees.  However, just add a side stand foot for a bit more thickness.  Try putting some 1/4" material under the side stand and see if you like that better.

1 hour ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 Again is mcruz = or better than OEM

Functionally, yes definitely equal.  However, if adding McCruise, you need to find space for all the hardware and wiring.  Their kits have very detailed and well written instructions.  Their kits are specific to the bike and all the necessary bits are included.  IMHO, the McCruise switch gear is a little too bulky, but other than that, works perfectly.  There is an ECU, likely will have to go in a spot under the seat, much like an auxiliary fuse panel would if you have one.

For factory throttle by wire Tracer/FJR cruise..... the brake lever switches had a tendency for the contacts to corrode, so the recall happened for 2013 FJR's and up, and a myriad of Yamaha models since that particular switch was first used.  It is not just a switch, and has a wire harness attached.  Many used contact cleaner to flush them and any dirt particles that would prevent the plunger from returning fully.  Dirt can also be an issue with the clutch switches.

Another cruise issue is wheel sensor signals.... recommend you remove the wheel sensors, clean any aluminum corrosion flakes off which could bridge the sensor to the (raw) aluminum housing, smear on a light coat of dielectric grease on the aluminum housing and the sensor mounting sleeve to prevent any corrosion from happening.  That treatment will last a very long time, but check maybe at tire changes.

Also check your rear brake pedal pivot is lubed so it returns fully.

You can order ProX shims from RockyMountainATV, they come in -in-between sizes.

The exhaust cam has pressure on it, which makes it rotate.  You'll have to rotate it into position (with a tool) and place the chain....

If you can slog through these videos......

Not quite true.... at the beginning of a section with a diagram denoting disassembly of items, the items are numbered in red and the torque values highlighted in yellow..... starting with the Chassis section.  The wiring diagram is also in colour.