stevesweetz

Pretty sure you've got that reversed there. More threads showing = the adjuster is further out = looser. What's weird is I never felt any play in the cam chain at all. Even with the adjuster completely out and just some rolled up cardboard jammed in the space between engine frame and the chain guide to keep the chain tight I couldn't budge the chain. I pretty much just tightened it by feel with the engine running. You can feel vibrations through the bolt and there was a point where it became very smooth - probably because it was so tight that the chain couldn't move at all. I back it out at little from there and ended up at roughly the same number of threads everyone is showing anyway.

Not wanting to wait until September, I did end up buying and installing an APE manual tensioner. However, I am very nervous about whether I have it set correctly. I already asked in the other cam chain thread, but anyone who has installed one, can you let me know either the length or how many threads are visible on your adjuster screw past the lock nut? Over on the FZ-09 forum the few people that posted there about it have 8 or 9 threads visible. I have 8 and I'm not getting any rattling, but I'm worried about it being too tight. I tried back it out until it rattled and tightening it from there, but with the bike just idling in neutral on the kickstand I weirdly couldn't get it to rattle.

So I called the dealer today to see what the status was on the parts and they said they're not getting them until September! It's worth noting, I've got a kit #2 bike. I think everyone I've seen reporting they had the TSB repair done so far has a kit #1 bike. So...I'm probably going to order an APE. I want to do some long distance touring and I'm just worried about the wear being incurred on the chain and sprockets by it running lose.

I wonder how they get to that bolt on the head cover. I mean, you can see it through a gap in frame without taking anything off, but it doesn't seem like there's enough room to fit an allen wrench in there. I wonder if they drop the radiator and go in from the front or lift the tank, I guess the first is probably way easier.

No It's NOT a recall. It's a technical service BULLETIN, which means bikes that exhibit SYMPTOMS of a noisy/failing tensioner will get theirs replaced. If a dealer tells you otherwise, they don't understand the difference, or are willing to absorb the cost of the repair when Yamaha refuses to pay for a new tensioner, that replaces a tensioner that doesn't make any noise. Or they plan on charging you, at which point it becomes a fight for who pays the bill. Skip Point is it doesn't seem like they're going to send out notices, but they are paying for the repair on bikes out of warranty. That said, rationally, how exactly do you think Yamaha is going to verify that the repair is only done when needed? Tell shops they need to make an audio recording of every bike on which the service is performed? They don't say that the tensioner has to be damage as pictured, they just say a persistent rattling has to be heard and I doubt they're going to require proof of that. In any case, my bike very much has the problem, and I don't know what they're telling anyone else, but they said they have noticed the rattle in other FZs and FJs in the past. I suspect they may proactively offer the repair for owners who bring their bike in for inspection or some other service if they exhibit the problem.

LOL, while my mechanic changed his tune in exactly the opposite way! I think it's basically a "non-mandatory recall". Thus far it doesn't seem like Yamaha is going to send out a notice to all potentially affected owners, but I think the fact that they're still covering the repair cost for bikes that are no longer under warranty makes it recall. It also sounds like they're asking dealers to proactively do this change for any new bikes they currently have in stock. --- Anyway, I'm anxiously awaiting these parts. My bike is rattling so much I'm worried about and the dealer said "if you're worried about it, don't ride it" - easier said than done. I just paid $11K for this bike, I wanna ride it dammit! Love the bike, but really disappointed at this issue, they had 2 previous model years and apparently already went through one design revision without fixing this problem.

Its funny what dealerships tell people... My local dealer told me it was a recall so who knows. I called my dealer today to check on the status of the part order and they said it's officially a recall now. When I brought the bike in they had just received the TSB the day prior and I guess had not yet been notified that Yamaha were doing an actual recall for it. In any case, no word on when the parts are expected yet, Yamaha is obviously going to have to send a lot of these kits out. In the meantime, my rattle is getting pretty bad, to the point where I'm getting concerned about it.

From what my dealer's mechanic said, there's no official recall. You have to take it in and ask about it. However, it looks like the work can be done as warranty work (i.e. free to you) regardless of whether your bike is still currently under warranty (at least for the next 3 years). The mechanic remarked that they're going to have to order a bunch of these kits once the word got out.

At 1000 miles my CCT has starting having this problem. Rattle was intermittent at first, but now it's happening often. I took the bike to the dealer last weekend and thankfully they had just received this TSB. I'm letting them do the Yamaha fix while the bike is still in warranty, but they haven't received the parts yet. @sixcharlie You seem to be missing page 3 and posted page 4 twice. Any chance we can get page 3?

I think Soupy's is pulling a little BS and measuring the difference in tail height, not seat height. Their page says "FJ-09 lowering link links kit will lower the rear of all years FJ-09 1 1/4 inches." On account of the fact that you're essentially pivoting the bike on an angle by lowering the rear only, the difference in tail height is going to be greater than the difference in seat height

Lowering links replace similar looking pieces that are already part of the stock suspension - they're just shorter than the stock versions. If you take a good look at the rear suspension, you should be able to see where they go. If you look on YouTube the install process is roughly the same as any single shock sport bike. It's typically a 2-man job because you basically need someone to sit on the bike to compress the rear suspension to right height while you remove the old links and install the new ones. Basically: 1. Put suspension on softest pre-load setting to make job easier. 2. Loosen the link bolts a little. 3. Have someone sit on the bike, putting just enough weight on to remove all tension from suspension, but not compress it any more than it already is. I.e. you want it to be neutral tension right at the height where the stock links keep the suspension. 4. Fully loosen and remove links bolts and links themselves. 5. Have your sitter put more of their weight on the bike, to compressing it further it to the point where you can fit the lowering links on. 6. Tighten the lowering links bolts according to torque specs. Should ideally keep the suspension compressed the whole time while tightening. The alternative to having a "sitter" is put a ratchet strap around the rear sub-frame and the wheel or swingarm to keep the suspension compressed the right amount. That's actually probably better than a sitter as it removes the human element, but stressing the sub-frame like that always seemed questionable to me, even though logically it really shouldn't be putting any more stress on the frame than a person sitting on it.