stevesweetz

Looks like you have to ask for it specially. kiwicanuck kind of made it sound like they have a bunch of foam options, but their standard foam is good for 160-240lbs, so unless you're close to or outside either of those extremes, you got the right one. This is from their FAQ: I have a Sargent, but I'm still interested in this seat. The Sargent is great for day-rides, but for multi-day touring its hardness gets to me I need to add an air pad on top. Having a seat that's cushier by default might be nice and if I end up liking it I should be able to recoup some cost selling the Sargent.

I gotta do this. I rode a 2017 FJ-09 at a Yamaha demo and the clutch is so much lighter it made me jealous. I don't mind the clutch during "sport" riding, but in traffic it kills me.

The wiring on right side signal is just slightly more annoying to work with, but it's not a big deal. On the right side signal, the blinker wire with the resistors has a little loop separated out from the neutral and running light wire, which are very short - shorter than needed for the FJ. If you want to keep the resistors in place, you can't cut the blinker wire down to match the length of the others. This just means that you'll need to make up for the shortfall and differing lengths on the connector side of things. Need to measure carefully so that once spliced everything comes out to the same length overall. On the left hand signal, the wires are all routed together and there's plenty of extra length versus what you need for the FJ, so you can just cut all 3 wires at the same spot on both the signal and connector side of things and not worry so much about everything coming out to the same length.

BTW. I ended up getting the flasher relay. It was some night riding that finally made me a little annoyed with the blinker speed. However I found one from a different company that's actually a bit better than the Custom LED one. It has the same form factor as the OEM relay so it's a very direct replacement and its rate is adjustable. https://tstindustries.com/TST-LED-Flasher-Relay-Gen2.html

@wordsmith: I thought the color match was quite good. The shade of matte paints differ drastically in pictures depending on the angle light is hitting it at. You can't compare with the under seat trim piece because that's at different angles. Compare with the lower section of the tank. The rough surface of the pannier and the lack of clearcoat also probably contributed a little. I will going to try again at some point, but this time with primer and clear.

Cleaning in progress shot. Just showing how easily the paint is lifting off with strips of tape

Update on painted panniers. To answer the question of do you need to prime, the answer is yes. Sad trombone. Oh well, live an learn. There was basically zero adhesion, I lifted all the paint off with just some packing tape. So at least I could revert the panniers to unpainted status extremely easily.

@piotrek : The resistors are most definitely on the blinker wire, front and back. There's two of them close together and they are just the little beige ones judging by size, but they are covered in heat shrink which I didn't want to bother removing, so I don't know their impedance rating. @koth442 : @texscottyd got it right, it's not cheap; mostly due to the weirdly high cost of the rear signals. However, what's "funny" is that these same exact signals are used on the FZ-10 and if you check the price on those, they're over $115 each. So Yamaha plays some kind of game with part prices. You can of course save a little money by cutting the connectors from the stock signals and whether you need the relay is a subjective choice. I did give a thought to trying the sell the stock signals on Ebay - but I doubt there's anyone that actually wants those pumpkins, so I don't expect to recoup any money on the old signals. I kept them intact pretty much just due to a long time paranoia when working with electronics - I wanted to keep them as "backups" just in case I did anything to screw up the Tenere signals.

@piotrek The LEDs are amber and the running lights are dimmer than the blinker. @nsmiller I don't have nighttime footage, but here's a video. The iPhone seems to crush brightness differences pretty heavily so the signals look unrealistically dim here - note that the headlight running lights and the tail light look equally dim, so use those as your relative basis of comparison for the real world. The signals aren't gobsmackingly bright or anything, but they're not quite so weak as the impression this video might give. [video src=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHn7pZAn81U] PS Regarding the resistors, I found a thread FZ-09 forums from owners who did a similar signal swap, and there's a great deal of discussion about the resistors there, which pretty much boils down to this: So that seems to agree with my theory. No clue whether the people stating this have any more authority on the subject than I do or are just making the same guesses, but unless any new info comes to light, I would stand by my recommendation to keep the resistors on the Tenere signals in place.

The LED turn signals used on the Super Tenere (and FZ-10 and other higher end Yamahas) look really good on FJ-09. Using the Tenere signals will give you running light functionality without needing a Blinker Genie or similar product, but they are unfortunately not "plug-and-play" because they use different connectors. You will need to know how to splice wires with a butt splice or (preferably) by soldering. This is not a step-by-step guide, it just covers the less obvious info - the rest is generally easy to figure out if you have basic mechanical knowledge. There are other guides out there for how to remove the signals from the bike. What to Order The Tenere signals are identical between left and right (the actual light part I mean). However the wiring on the left front signal makes it a bit easier to work with for the purpose of installing on the FJ-09, therefore instead of ordering a left and a right front signal, just order two lefts. The rear signals are weirdly more expensive than the fronts despite having less functionality (no running light). You could probably order all front signals and then just not use the running light wire, but the resistors (more on that later) on the rear signals are better placed for how the wires need to route in the FJ, so I might recommend getting the actual rear signals. The wiring on the rear signals is identical, so if one is cheaper than the other for some reason, just order two of the cheaper one. Front - two of these: 2BS-83310-10-00 Rear - two of either one of these or one of each, doesn't matter: 2BS-83330-10-00 2BS-83340-10-00 For the connectors, you can cut the connectors off your stock signals, or if you want to keep your stock signals intact, order Yamaha 3-pin turn signal connector from Custom LED or similar. https://www.customled.com/products/yamaha-oem-turn-signal-connectors-3-wire Wiring When you get the Tenere signals, you'll notice they have a hard plastic shroud over a section of the wire. This is because there are some small resistors on the signals and this is to protect the solder points from flexing. You'll need to remove these shrouds because there is not enough room to fit them where the wires needs to route on the FJ. The routing on the FJ doesn't require the wire to be bent where the resistors are installed so this shouldn't be an issue. The shroud is just held on with electrical tape and can be easily removed. Here's what you need to know for the connector. The wire colors are different if you cut the connector from the stock signals versus buying replacement connectors, so instead of me telling you wire colors which may not be consistent, just refer to the image below. The positions are identical for left and right. The rear signals obviously don't have a running light wire, but the positions of neutral and the blinker wire is still the same. On the Tenere signals the wire colors are: Solid Black = Neutral/Ground Black & Red = Running Light Black & Blue or Black & Green = Blinker Same colors apply to the rear signals, they just don't have the black & red running light wire. A Note on the Resistors As mentioned above, there are small resistors on the blinker wire of the Tenere signal. I thought that these were load equalizing resistors to maintain the same blinker speed since the Tenere once had incandescent signals as well - so I kept the resistors intact with my install hoping that I wouldn't need a blinker relay. However, my blinker speed ended up being much faster anyway (on par with aftermarket LED signals without resistors or a LED blinker relay), and in comparison to the aftermarket resistors sold for the purpose of LED turn signal load equalizing, the resistors on the Tenere signals seem much too small for that purpose. Therefore, I'm not entirely sure what purpose they serve - I'm out of my knowledge base here. Completely unqualified guess - maybe the stock electrical system supplies more power to the turn signals than the LEDs can safely operate on and the resistors are for preventing the signals from being over powered, not regulating blinker rate. In any case, I recommend keeping the resistors intact - if only because, like I said, the Tenere originally had incandescent turn signals as well and Yamaha clearly deemed these resistors necessary for whatever reason. However, you will also need an LED blinker relay like the below if you want the stock blinker speed. This is a nice one that exactly matches in the OEM relay in shape and size so it's a very direct replacement: https://tstindustries.com/TST-LED-Flasher-Relay-Gen2.html Pics

@wordsmith I just wiped them down with some isopropyl alcohol to remove any grease, taped out the pattern and painted them. No sanding, no primer, didn't even clear coat. I figured my panniers are going to get beat up so I wasn't didn't want to invest too much effort or expense in the paint. I may try clear coating them later with some off-the-shelf matte clear, but that's it. Who knows, the paint may start peeling a few months from now, but I've painted plastic without primer before and have never really had a problem.

Oh, I really like that... I've been following discussions on this for awhile, but think now it's time to actually do it. Did you cut the connectors off the stock signals, or wire them in some other way? I bought new connectors from Custom LED so I could keep the stock signals intact, just in case. https://www.customled.com/products/yamaha-oem-turn-signal-connectors-3-wire At some point soon I'll write up a short "how to" for the wiring since this info is kind of spread out in different places right now. The one piece of advice I will give right now is when ordering the signals, do not bother to order a left and a right, just get two lefts (2BS-83310-10-00).

Painted OEM panniers with (overpriced) rattle can from ColorRite. Tenere turn signals front and rear.

I found this smell to be much more prevalent, along with carbon spots on my exhaust shroud, when running conventional oil. Switched to synthetic oil and my exhaust shroud gets much less sooty over time and I get less of that burning oil smell.

Yeah for $80, the quality on that thing is too low. The mounting screws rust too - but I think most of us stuck with the stocks screws for that. I handed my bike over to the dealer for winter storage this weekend (I don't have a garage) and they told me they had finally received the CCT kits about a week earlier. I already told them a while ago I installed a manual tensioner so they didn't call me when it came int, but since I was turning the bike over to them, they gave me the option of getting the new automatic one installed while they had it. I figured what the hell and gave them the go ahead as long as I get the APE back in one piece.

Save $50 by buying here: http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/5762d2cf87a86610f0f77648/flasher-light Thanks; I think I'd just get the Tenere ones, since I don't see what would make the FZ-10 ones worth that much more even with discount. Just wish I understood why the rears are more expensive and whether the fronts could also be used as rears (normally I'd think the rears would be 2 wire and therefore cheaper). Here's a listing for the Tenere ones BTW: http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/5626462987a86602c84a316a/flasher-light I'm a bit nervous trying to attempt this in general. People over on the FZ-09 forums take about it being important to use resistors with these lights - and not just for the timing, but to keep the LEDs from being over-powered and damaged. The Tenere lights have resistors but people say they don't fit anywhere and get hot so then they substitute their own resistors and electrical stuff is not my forte.

For what it's worth - I looked into this and, at least based on parts diagrams, the FZ-10s connectors are not the same as the FJ-09. They're also obscenely expensive, at $125 per light http://www.yamahapart.com/oemparts/a/yam/5762d2cf87a86610f0f77648/flasher-light The Tenere lights, despite looking to be almost the same exact thing are apparently only around $55 per light - at least for fronts. The rears are $80 - not sure what the difference is that makes them more expensive. I'd like to replace my pumpkins and have been struggling with what to get - really like the look of these.

PSR - (Powersports Racing) makes one that's a bit more reasonably priced. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/75945/i/psr-manual-cam-chain-tensioner I was aware of this when I bought the APE tensioner, but while I saw other people mention it, I couldn't find comments from anyone who actually bought one and installed it. Ultimately, because I'm a coward, I paid an extra $25 to get the APE merely because it was a known quantity, but in retrospect I doubt it's any better quality than the PSR. I mean it's a bracket, a screw, and some nuts to lock it into position - pretty hard to mess up as long as the mounting bolt holes are in the right place.

Yup it's an 11/16" Another complaint is that both the mounting and adjuster bolts are poorly anodized and will rust unless you give them a coat of WD-40 every so often. Using the stock mount bolts solves half that problem at least. It works and we don't have much alternative, but relative to it's high price, the APE CCT is kind of a piece of crap. That thing should be $40 at most, bastards probably know they have a captive audience.

Wrong! The TSB from Yamaha says IF the FJ VIN # is in the # range for replacement, it needs to be replaced, period! I've read the TSB. I guess you didn't notice that the TSB is posted at the start of this thread and anyone can read it for themselves, right? It does not say what you say. Page 2, top: "Modify ONLY those units that exhibit the described abnormal noise..."

Note that there are two different CCT kits for different production years of the bike. Everyone that I've seen that reporting having the repair done has a kit #1 bike. I haven't heard of anyone with kit #2 getting their bike done and my dealer is also saying the part is on backorder until late September.

Yeah I've found both WD-40 and chain cleaner work well.

So not to throw a wrench in everyone's theories, but switching to that Motul 7100 full synthetic seemingly has indeed reduced the black spots on the exhaust for me. As mentioned I was taking a big trip, 2400 miles (round trip), visiting Tail of the Dragon in North Carolina. After 1000 miles, my exhaust tip was cleaner than what I'd get after just like 100 miles when on the natrual oil. Maybe coincidental, but anecdotally it seems to have had an effect to me.

Just hit 2000 miles and decided to oil change before a big trip I'm taking. Shelled out for Motul 7100 (full synthetic) 10w40 and so far I haven't noticed the bike behaving any differently than with the Yamalube dino oil that the shop put in for the first oil change. However, the oil is bright red like cherry sauce, so that's something fun! I'll have to give my exhaust a scrub and see if I also no longer get black spots - that would be nice.

It's described in the TSB itself which is posted at the start of this thread...