hammer

4 minutes ago, piotrek said:

@hammer... I am in Mississauga and could pop in to compare and for reference measurements if you'd like. Brake parts that is...

Today (06/06) afternoon works for me... or tomorrow sometime.

Yes!!! Anytime today. PM sent with phone.

Old pads.lots of life

Driver showing wear lines from new (and old) pads.

Old pads. Tons of life. Screwdriver shows top and bottom wear lines from a 20kms-ish ride

29 minutes ago, Toddtr said:

The aluminum carrier thingy is warped. Anyone close who could let you borrow one just to check?

That was brought up as a possibility, but low probability. Before removal tire spun freely, while the wheel was off, it was placed up on the fender, and during install it was babied. Never say never though.

4 minutes ago, skipperT said:

The anti-rattle clips that support the inner (I think) pad have a slight indentation in them which is supposed to keep the pad in place. It’s possible that part of the edge of the pad wasn’t seated in there correctly upon reinstallation. 
-Skip

Do you mean the leading edge of the pads? Yes, they are seated correctly.

I will post a sl of pics tonight/this weekend. Lol...we should "zoom" this procedure.

On 6/4/2020 at 11:49 AM, Toddtr said:

I actually know what the problem is now. You brought an engineer into a problem and now it has become compounded x infinity, I’m sorry but all hope is lost 

He read this and had a laugh!

12 minutes ago, FJ29ER said:

IF YOU PULL THE PADS COMPLETELY OUT OF THE CALIPER, DOES THE CALIPER SLIDE FREELY IN AND OUT?

 

PICTURES REQUESTED. PLEASE

-BOTH SIDES OF AXLE ENDS.

-TOP SLIDER PIN CLOSE UP

-WIDE VIEW OF COMPLETE CALIPER FROM MULTIPLE ANGLES.

i'll get them tonight or this wknd. I'm at work until 23:00 tonight

So. I sent this pic to my guys and one noticed the top looks totally askew. Is this normal?

16 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

Hi @hammer - Check out parts 8, 9, 17 in this parts diagram.    Part 11 is the front slide pin, which doesn’t have any additional sleeve or spacer.  Does yours look like this?    Note:  I pulled the 2015 FJ parts diagram, since I don’t know the year of your bike...  suspect they’re all very similar. 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2015/fj09-fj09fr/rear-brake-caliper

 

Mine is a '15. Yup, boot, sleeve and bolt are all in place.

14 minutes ago, trevinator said:

the red circled part should be on the rear most caliper bolt, pinched between the head of the bolt and the silver caliper mount that the abs sensor is attached to.

Yes the sleeve is in per book

1 hour ago, trevinator said:

i also see a mark on the wheel from where the pads were scraping it, which is definitely not supposed to happen. have you put a straight edge across the face of the rotor to rule out that its not bent? i put arrows to the silver bushing that should be on your rear caliper. is it possible that the silver bushing is missing in your bike, or if its there, that the rubber is on the end of it tilting the caliper? also put a photo of how to check the rotor to see if its bent. just make sure the straight edge doesnt go over the bolt heads since they are proud of the rotor face.

I know for a fact that there is no washer/spacer on the bolt (left caliper) that you indicate. I have taken it off enough times to know this. It was NOT there at first removal. Now, I don't have my manual, and that's all that it is....dang! It would almost make sense as the caliper is off top to bottom, not side to side (which would be a greater possibility of wheel misalignment)

 The rotor is flat with no wave.

Just checked, the parts manual says nothing of a extra spacer/washer at the bolt head.

Taken tonight. Pulled pads apart, and hit pedal and release. Definitely see a gap on left side bottom and right side top.

27 minutes ago, FJ29ER said:

Not sure if my posts are being seen.

But if you go back to look at what @texscottyd posted on page 2 you can clearly see the head of the bolt that holds the lower slide pin, you cant see yours at all.

Hey Tex, 

 Yeah I saw your post. Because I'm doing this on my phone, it's hard to check and quote all the messages. The pic I posted was with the bolt out completely. The caliper was just sitting there for demo purposes. 

 The sleeve for the bolt is in.

Same Trevor, I am reading all the posts (I want to be riding not wrenching) but it's hard for me to quote multiple quotes. Don't worry, they're not going unnoticed/unread.

I greatly appreciated the help/advice and guidance.

4 minutes ago, Toddtr said:

Time to set it on fire, it can’t be fixed

It IS insured....hmmmmm hahaha

3 minutes ago, Toddtr said:

If that’s  the case your wheel is crooked. Take a framing square to the ground and contact bottom and top of wheel, if it’s off something is wrong or the carrier for your brake caliper is bent. It’s leaning to the left when looking from behind 

Thought of that...buddy is an engineer and used a ruler and vernier scale multiple times to measure and recheck.

 Bike is on centre stand now, bike in second, shift to neutral, the wheel stops. No neutral run off. 

The lines have been bled 3x.

6 minutes ago, betoney said:

OK, so that is a huge clue.  The rear wheel spins freely with no binding indicating assembly is correct. 

Brake system has been bled and fluid flows completely from the reservoir through the MC to the caliper.   The rear wheel is not binding UNTIL the pedal is pressed and piston extended, when you say the piston wont release. 

In my line of thinking you have narrowed the issue down to the caliper and master cylinder.  The caliper was just rebuilt -so- with the caliper removed from the brake carrier, when you press the pedal to extend the piston- halfway is adequate, does the piston freely extend and smoothly retract back to 100% seated inside the caliper. 

When you cycle the piston in and out does the fluid level visibly lower and then raise back up in the reservoir?  When the piston is completely retracted back into the caliper, is the fluid level at or below the full mark?  You don't want to overfill or the piston will never fully retract.

The piston freely floats out, and will retract when pushed. The caliper bolts were lubed (where needed - rear shaft) and although not checked, there was no noticeable warp or bend. When looking from the rear, the left pad is top touching, while the rear pad is bottom touching. They full seat flat when pedal is pushed. The fluid moves as it should. 

I'm thinking about riding to work (140kms round trip) to see how it goes. Maybe a good ride with real world braking applications to seat everything?

So, here's than update.

I am not new to wrenching on bikes. The only thing I will hesitate on is electrical.

 I took it all apart, and double checked spacing and placement of everything...all is good 

 Buddy shows up Saturday. We change out pads, install new piston kit (two rings), recheck tire alignment and chain slack, lubed the brake pad pin, another bleed, then tightened everything down. Then we double checked everything again. Then took a break and double checked AGAIN.

On stand, there is enough friction to make you go "hmph?" when trying to spin rear tire. I took it for a spin this week of about 80kms hwy, and when I got back, the tire spin was freer. Good for me. Go check last night, again it's stiff. (Maybe it was just the heat making it easier to roll?) Rear brake feel on road is very low. Walking bike is a chore. 

Does the chain need a break-in to loosen up? 

 My only idea left is to take it to the shop and have them do everything I've already done.

Side note: I was able to install the GPS mount, so all is not lost lol.

Bolts are in, no wave. Just might look off due to the angle.

Ordered a piston kit and new pads. Hopefully they're in this week.

I'm totally stumped now. Bled the brake with no air. Wondering if something happened when the pedal got pushed down with no rotor to grab?

28 minutes ago, betoney said:

@hammer - One more thing to check...  When you had the wheel off to change tires, did you remove the sprocket carrier /cush drive from the wheel?  The sprocket carrier separates from the wheel and has the rubber dampers inside, separate it from the wheel and re-seat it, make sure it is fully inserted in the hub.

Nope, didn't touch anything past the sprocket. 

So everything is back in place. Chain is adjusted etc etc. 

No brake grabbing, rubbing or grinding but I haven't hit the pedal yet...

10, 9, 8, 7, 6.....

And failure! Back piston won't release. 

Bike for sale! Lol