howie333

I assume 40-45mm slack measured while on centerstand. that's approx. what I measure w/ my 2017 fj-09.

I know; and I guess I'm just going w/ the ~25mm @ drive line alignment, or w/ my weight on seat which is very close; then take measurements when on center stand for next slack check. I could be off. opinions are always appreciated. Thank You...

Manual states Place the vehicle on the centerstand so that the rear wheel is elevated. 2. Shift the transmission into the neutral position. 3. Check: • Drive chain slack "a" Out of specification ~ Adjust. If that's so, adjusting chain to 5-15mm w/swingarm down (on centerstand); bringing rear wheel back up in alignment w/ swingarm and sprockets would tighten chain to point of either chain breakage or damage trans bearing or worse. it's too hard to assume by that diagram given if we are seeing that swingarm lined up w/ anything, we have just a description and measurement that could not be correct.

Your method is probably right; my weight ends up to pull suspension for the swingarm pivot, front sprocket, and rear sprocket to be very near for that lineup, and only checking @ tight point of chain; still 1/2 slack may be too tight. I have approx. 1.5" or 35mm slack when on centerstand now. If those drive points didn't line up; it may be OK if I rarely or never change bikes load (luggage or passenger).

Well, so far so good. My free sag is less than 10mm, but preload is @30% of shock travel @ approx. 39mm. Works well. Ii strapped bike down to my weight on seat, and set chain to approx. 1" (25mm) slack. loose when on side or center stand, but runs fine. I figure best to set common chain slack for when in riding position, then record chain slack then on center stand and use as reference for general chain maintenance.

Well I installed the Motool suspension sag meter to set my weight w/ tie downs to simulate my weight. I set chain slack as not to move upper chain. Worked well. I set chain @25mm(~1 inch) slack. When on side stand; measures 30-35mm and on centerstand 40-45mm. hopefully done correctly; I'd want the most accurate slack to be w/ my weight on the bike.

I Just talked w/ a bike tech in my town; said best is to set slack @ approx. 1-1.25 inch or ~30+mm w/ rider on bike just as you said. I'll set my Motool suspension tool to measure sag, and preload bike to match my weight, then I'll set drive chain slack. Also, as setting chain slack; not to see upper part of chain move as lower is measured to be accurate; either way, Service manual is dangerously wrong on setting drive Chain Slack ! Thank you...

OK; so basically it seems the best way to set chain slack w/ be to put front wheel in chock to achieve that rear assembly lineup shown in diagram; but id have to either pull rear shock bolt out or compress shock to align swingarm as shown in diagram, and then I guess set drive chain slack 35-40mm ? Thanks for reply...

where the chain slack feels right w/ wheel raised and then bike dropped to floor is very different.

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2017 Yamaha FJ-09 The Yamaha FJ-09 Service Manual states the Drive chain slack to be @ 5mm-15mm measured while bike is on center stand while wheel is elevated. I was surprised. My chain was @45mm. I looked over all discussions to this subject, and seems majority are not using manual's specs; but anywhere from 25mm to 45mm. When I set chain slack @ 32mm on center stand; then I put bike in front wheel chock to put weight on rear wheel; and found setting tightened up 10mm to a setting @ 22mm. I cant imagine setting slack to manual specs ! Please help me w/ correct way to set this Drive chain slack. Thank You...

I'm sure; but that tells me my Scorpion battery in question is related to it's quality considering it Being on a tender most of the time when not ridden still only lasted < 1 yr. Thanks for reply...

Will Do ! I ordered the Motocross version AGM Yuasa battery for $132. Hope this one works out, and will be more careful .

Thanks for reply. I called Batterystuff about my present Scorpion battery, and told me I should have got the Motocross made by Yuasa in Japan vs. the Scorpion made in China, but what do I know !

I've got AGM batteries in all my bikes, no more than 2 weeks w/o charge. I'm now also looking @ the Motocross battery. It supposed to be a relabeled Yuasa, and as reliable as OEM; but still only a 1 year warrantee. I'm still on the fence w/ the Lithium Antigravity.

Well; either way I did assume battery was defective, but I'd like to know what's causing a parasitic draw and to determine Amp/HR performance incase I'd choose a lithium battery replacement because of it draining too quickly destroying battery, but w/ BMS on most Lithium batteries, and choosing a high AH, I should be OK. still not sure which type battery to choose yet though.

14.5-14.8V running AFAIK . Battery now if charged is approx 12.2 V, and after trying to start several times is down to 11.9V and will not start bike unless I bring voltage up w/ tendor, but will not last. I tested the battery on a Harbor Freight battery testor which showed it weak after charged up, so I guess it's done. I'm shopping now Lith or AGM. Thanks for replies...

Well, I found 2 fuse outputs causing the parasitic drain. Total drain is .5ma; .34ma on a 7.5A fuse marked (backup) and .14ma 30 amp marked (ABS motor). I looked up those loads and Backup to basically to backup power to the Clock and odometer as I have suspected, and the ABS motor must need a backup power also. So I guess those parasitic loads are normal and all I need to do is to replace the battery.. I just have to decide AGM vs. Lithium Iron. Thanks for replies...

OK, I've borrowed a quality multimeter, and I'm getting .5ma or .0005A parasitic drain at this time. I'll check all fused outputs to find drain, but I assume its internal clock, or any other memory loads. I just need to know if that draw is normal and required as a minimum.

Well, All I really need now is to know if the 2017 FJ-09 has an normal parasitic amperage draw while ignition is off. I do have a relay to a fuse bar for brake/flash feature tail light, a chain oiler, 12 v aux. socket and wiring for a GPS. When ignition switch is off, so should be any loads I've added. I'm reading .5 on a 20ma scale, so assume I have a .5m leak. 2ma,20m,or 200m; still reads .5

I just measured .5ma or 500ma not sure I'm reading right. I guess I should be concerned. I like the Antigravity lithium Battery cause it's got a Jumper button that will start bike up even when the BMS shut off to save battery from excessive low or high voltage. Looks good unless otherwise I find similar @ a lower price. Battery Mart sells a basic AGM(Scorpion) for $50, and a Motocross (Yuasa version) for $160 ,and batterystuff says its basically same battery w/ a Yuasa sticker! Both 1 year warrentee. No way I'm paying $160 for that short a warrantee ! I don't know what could be causing a parasitic load off a basically stock wiring layout.

What should the parasitic draw from a 2017 FJ-09 ? That may be a choosing factor for a lithium battery. I should be OK if it's slight with a BMS built into the given battery anyway, but I'll just have to keep it charged when not in use for a week or so. I'd probably need to do that even w/ a AGM battery anyway.

Yea, i'm gett'in that. I never thought I'd have to spend $200 for a motorcycle battery that will last close to what they'd used to on my older bikes. I know my Ninja 650 had lower compression than the FJ, and now have small parasitic loads I guess load the battery down. I'd stay w/ a AGM battery if the differences weren't close, maybe $55.

After some research, seems the Antigravity ATZ-10 lithium Iron battery is probably the best alternative from a AGM battery @$180/ Amazon. There's seems to be as almost as many issues w/ a OEM type Yausa as a Chinese copy brand. NOCO and Shorai are less expensive, some are pleased, but some have had problems even w/ correct chargers and wouldn't buy again.