howie333

Fellow from 2 wheel obsesion has an in depth video on You tube that explanes fork and shock upgrade. He uses Stoltec Moto which sells the tools and parts needed to revalve and spring exististing forks. The rears he uses Penske rear shockw/ cartridge. I'm not sure if worth the extra money over a K-tech shock of same type. He uses the MT09 for example that has compression damping forks. Would I notice any improvement of added front and rear compresion damping w/ the fJ-09 for street riding ? thnx...

A few questions: should I stay w/ the stock Cst rating oil with upgraded forks ? Will High flow valves, springs, and new shim kit come with new fork cartridges, and is this what I should be installing ? For rear shock; should I use the Razor R light or go with the Razor R w/ compression damping (cartridge)type ? W/ 165lb. rider, riding gear and tank and side bags which spring rate .85nmor .9nm is recomended for proper spring rate and how and why do you figure or calculate this rate ? Someone recomended a .9nm spring set, Racetech or K-tech gold valves w/ custom shim stacks and high flow valves, and raise forks 15mm in triple tree to put more weight on front wheel. Opinion ? My forks now are raised 10mm in triples as is other bike I own w/ good results. I guess I'm ready to spend money where needed. I'm also learning alot thanks to these replies. Thank You for replies...

I used the Motool to set total sag(static and rider) @ aprox. 35mm rear, and 40mm front( best I could get). Right now front fork preload is maxed and bottoming out, and rebound damping is all out to right feel, and rear shock is set @ max soft w/ rebound 1-1/2 turns out; feels right. Rider sag is 40mm for the front, and rear is 35mm. I talked with K Tech suspension today; said not to use Maxima 5w, (already bought), but to use motul 5w for proper flow rate, change springs to a .85Nm, and the razor R rear shock $$ (not the Light). and be better to get their fork cartridges $$which come w/ the springs. Says preload not as imoprtant as dampening when setting up suspension. can anyone comment on these recomendations please Thank You...

Member 88 Author Posted 6 hours ago I used the Motool to set total sag(static and rider) @ aprox. 35mm rear, and 40mm front( best I could get). Right now front fork preload is maxed and bottoming out, and rebound damping is all out to right feel, and rear shock is set @ max soft w/ rebound 1-1/2 turns out; feels right. Rider sag is 40mm for the front, and rear is 35mm. I talked with K Tech suspension today; said not to use Maxima 5w, (already bought), but to use motul 5w for proper flow rate, change springs to a .85Nm, and the razor R rear shock w/ canister $$ (not the Light); and be better to get their fork cartridges $$which come w/ the springs. Says preload not as imoprtant as dampening when setting up suspension. can anyone comment on these recomendations please thanks again...

Not sure about the tech info on these fork springs and shocks, butt I'm sure there's a fix. where's a good info and a suspension supplier for suspension upgrade ? i'm probably going to keep the bike; but also still looking at the Aprilia RS 660 as a 2nd bike, but probably dont need it, but is so desirable cause of where i live in the (smokey mountains). Thanks again..

Well; thank you for that advise. I did some hard braking and hard cornering(tail of the dragon), and forks did bottom out ! If I start backing off fork preload, I may loose the great cornering I now have. As you know, preload is at max. I guess I'll need heavier fork springs afaIk. If so; were do I start looking ? As stated, the rear shock is set @ full soft to get required sag. Should I also be looking to replace rear shock? Thanks again...

Just came back from short ride; and adjusting this bikes suspension made a world of difference so far. I'm still left w/ 40mm to bottom out, and as I stated 40mm sag in the forks(not sure what that relates to). I'm assuming the rear preload and both rebounds I set are also good(for now), till i have more time to take it out for a longer ride on some curvy roads, but for now, i'm very satisfied, so much, I may take back my deposit on a Aprilia RS 660 I recently put down. I still probably should change the fork oil. Thanks again...

Thanks for reply; Front fork travel is 137mm. According to Dave Moss, I should measure tube from above seal to bottom of tube and mark travel to find bottom out, and thats where I measure to tie band afaik.

Well; the Motool makes this job much easier. Here's where I'm at: looking for 30-35% sag of full suspension travel. should be approx. 35-40mm sag front and rear afaik. Front preload now measures 40mm turned in all the way-hard; rebound damping screw turned all the way out . Rear preload now measures 35mm; least position-soft; rebound damping; 1-1/2 turns in from soft(middle of adjustment) good. I think it tells me, rear too hard a spring and front too soft a spring. I think i have correct sag now front and rear; but i'll take a ride tomarrow, but not sure what i'm looking for. Hopefully it'll handle better for the street and not go thru front tires so quickly. Thanks or replies...

Thanks for replies. 1st i'm trying to get an accurate sag adjustment using the Motool sag measuring tool. it's easier esp. doing by myself. I'm not sure how important static sag is compared to the total rider sag. reading posts on YTube, rider sag should be 30-35% of total suspension travel, 137mm front forks, and 130mm rear, or 30-35mm total rider sag, I measure lifting bike front and rear separately, set to 0, then measure sitting to get full sag measuement; then set rebound damping according to feel. many differnt ways to get hopefully same results.

If there's documentation or a video on that procedure, please let me know. TNX...

What I've read, I'de just have to dump oil , and pump up and out (to measure), as Dave Moss Video shows to do. According to maxima's 5W race oil would be the Yamaha 01 (KYB) equivilant. Correct me if wrong. Thank You...

2017 FJ-09. 12K+ miles. 165 lbs. Manual states just to inspect forks @ specific mile intervals; but not to change fork oil and what weight. Local Dealer stated there shop usually doesn't change fork oil, and uses it uses a "0" weight. Can oil be changed w/o dissasembling the whole fork assemblies ? Manual states quantity (aprox. total 30 oz. for both fork tubes) and that it uses a Yamaha suspension oil 01. not sure change interaval, but i think 12K miles is more than ready to change before I finally set this suspension up for my weight. What should be the change interval ? Just bought a Motool self sag measuring tool; so please help if can so I can order this fork oil. Can and should I use an aftermarket fork oil and what weight ? Thanks ; Howie...

Well; Thank you for the informative replies. I plan on reviewing what I measured and do again w/ a front wheel stand, and a Slacker measuring device I saw Dave Moss use which allows you to do all measurements yourself w/o anyone to help and can take my time to do a better job. Hopefully this suspension is salvagable and adjustable. How often should I be changing fork oil, manual states use Yamaha fork oil, but doesn't state what weight for climate and how I ride. I'm @ about 12.5 K miles now. I dout I'd have to rebuild them yet, just change oil maybe. Thanks for replies..

2017 FJ-09 I've been riding this bike since new with 12+K mikes. I would go thru front tires prematurely, always scalloping (cupping front tire) and bike could not handle any type of aggresive cornering, and could feel it in it's handling overall. ( I do live in the mountains of Tennessee). It occured to me the problem has always been in it's suspension settings. I had it set for soft ride and to help keep it low in the rear and always felt tall in the front. I'm 5'9" tall, and could just barely flat foot it. I just replaced the front tire, lowered the air pressure a few pounds from spec, and firmed up both front and rear compression and also set up rebound dampening. the bike handled better than it had, but i think it could be better and more precise. Today a friend and I tried to set up both front and rear spring compression and rebound dampening according to basic suspension tutorals, and general specs for my weight. According the Dave Moss and other video's i've studied, there should be approx. 30-35% total suspension sag front and rear for general street riding. I measure 150mm total fork travel, made deduction for actual fork travel and deducted the 137mm, made 13mm mak on fork tube, w/ tiewrap on fork tube, I measured 72mm left w/ fully loosened adjusters. would'nt my sag only be 46% ? I would need only 55mm left to get a 35% sag. I weigh 165 lbs. and cannot get baseline settings with this stock suspension. with the adjusters all turned fully looseened, I still cant get enough weight to compress the suspension to a 30-35% sag with my weight. I'm closer to barely get 20.5-23% sag. With this setting the bike handled badly. Does this mean I need a softer shock and front fork springs ? to handle better, i'd be barely @ 15-20% sag w/ adjusters full loose! Thank You... Howie....

Thanks for reply. You may be right about the Aprilia and other euro bikes, but that RS 660 does give an exhilarating experience. I'm 5'9" tall, and like faired sport bikes for there wind protection, looks, and ability to hide components and wiring. I want more power than the 650 Ninja offers, but other than the FJ-09, most are nakeds or supersports w/ the Inline 4 whine and extreme bar and feet placement. I like the looks of the Ducati Supersport S 950, but heat issue may be a turn-off. Owners of brands in question usually wont admit to there own bike faults if they if they like them enough to keep them. I also would like the street triple if was a faired/shielded design (a more upright Daytona) ! same goes for the Yamaha MT series. If I tried to modify, I'd just be trying to make something their not designed to be. Howie...

Got It ; thank You !

Then I could venture for the Aprilia RSV4 or tuono V4. I'd probably lose my license, and low range for gas mileage, but big fun factor, and wind protection.

I'm ordering a right side cowl from Partzilla for a metallic white 2017 FJ-09. there are several paint codes. 1st one is Dark Purplis, and the other which I think is white; is cover 1/ UR for BWP1 part# 2pp-28219-00-p9. says it fits the FJ-09 and FJ-09HW. What tells me it's the metalic white color ? TNX....

1st brought fork tubes down 13mm, and will bring back up to maybe 5-10mm? not sure yet. tightened up front and rear preloads and rebounds. it was better. I'm replacing front tire now(Dunlop Roadsmart 3). The Ninja just falls right into turns easier; just need more power from it. This is probably why want a 2nd bike. Someone mentioned to just put bar triple tree cap and tall bars on the new R7 or the upcoming R9, although I wish Yamaha could make something close to that Aprilia RS660 !

17 Yamaha fj-09.I've owned and ridden a 07 Ninja 650 since new. Great handling bike all arounder for me. I'm sure there are better. In 2017 when my wife needed a bike I gave up the Ninja; and decided on a Yamaha FJ-09. the bike felt OK when demo'd @ dealer on semi straight roads. the comfort, and power was great, Bought it. In time when I rode the Ninja, I noticed how much better it cornered on mountain roads in comparison to the Yamaha. I've set up the suspension for a firmer ride, found it to be slightly better. I've been battling a decision to sell this bike, fix it, or just get a more sporty ride. I I run Dunlop Roadsmart 3's proper air pressure and dropped front fork tubes 10mm.The FJ needs to be pushed harder thru each turn which also causes premature scalloping of the front tire. the bike feels nimble otherwise. I was told to reduce the tire pressure of both tires slightly to reduce the scalloping. In measuring; the FJ is 1" longer, rake is 1" more, and trail the same, fork tubes 2-1/2" longer all in comparison to the Ninja. if I sell; there's not much out there in the 650 -900cc sport touring class I'm interested in. no nakeds or in line 4's. I'm looking at either another Ninja 650 , Ducati 950, or the Aprilia 660RS.Please reply'TNX....

I agree. I also picked up a l.e.d. voltmeter to monitor. I got nervous when bike shut down riding the tail of the Dragon and no cell service. replaced battery, later that month, the stator. I had always kept battery on tender. TNX for reply !

FJ-09 motor starts always seemed to need a little extra torque to start compared to a lower compression engine on my Kawasaki Ninja 650R. The only additional loads on the FJ are a J+M CB radio, a chain oiler, and OEM heated grips. If safe, i'll stick w/stock battery size.