howie333

Are there any other brand Lithium Iron type batteries you would recommend, sa. NOCO, Antigravity or similar . I'm seeing them lower than $300. Is there a difference and can any charger rated for any of the LIFEpo4 or Shorai battery safely work? Thanks...

STG is the only distributor I found that I can purchase an authentic Yausa YTZ10s battery for $200. I'd guess @ that price, I'd be better to just buy a lithium of either a Shorai or the LifePO4. Would a Battery tender made for lithium batteries be sufficient for charging them or must I buy they're specific charger, and I have a local Batteryplus store nearby; would they're own brand X2 lithium be of any good quality in comparison ? Thanks For Replies..

Yea, my older 07 Ninja 650R was basic as such, battery lasted as long as it did (10 years). Also; there's a small continuous load on the FJ battery I noticed when I took the battery out. I'm not sure what it is, but probably the memory for the settings. anything aftermarket I installed is wired off a switched line. What is that load? Also the battery tested defective. Warrantee on battery is outdated. Not Fair from a one year old battery ! I'll have to spend more $$ this time I guess. The battery I'm replacing is a SCORPION from BATTERYSTUFF; if that made a difference.

Thanks; I'll check if there's a load, but the engine turns over effortlessly, and sounds as if it will run, but not. When charged for a half hour, turns over the same , but starts right up.

Please Name a Name brand battery. I'd thought most all motorcycle batteries are made in a universal warehouse and are mostly similar quality unless I go lithium$$. OEM battery only lasted a little over 3 years in my 17 FJ-09, but an older Kawasaki Ninja 650r I had OEM lasted over 10 years !! This battery only made it as year ! Not good. I think it came from Battery Stuff and cost approx. $100. I'm calling them tomorrow.

Bike won't start up. turns over continually fine and sounds like engine is about to start, but when start switch is released. nothing. Then battery is reading @ 11.9 volts. When battery is charged, I meter @ 12.4 volts and will start right up and if I shut off and start up several times in a row; problem of not starting will repeat. I get 14.8 volts when running . Battery replaced less than a year ago. Bike is kept inside and occasionally put on battery tender if bike is down for more than a couple of weeks. Anyone have this problem; and If so, please help Thank You...

Fast Bike informed me They were out of the Ohlins fluid they usually use, but the Maxima 85-150 5W fork fluid was a CST @40c matchup, and air gap of 120mm. TNX for reply...

I recently did a Andreani fork Cartridge and Nitron shock exchange. the shock was easy to set spring preload. The forks presently minimum comp/rebound damping to test. The shock w/ reservoir comp/rebound is set from Nitron for my riding style and weight. I left them there cause it feels right so far. I set the front and rear preloads for 30% total suspension travel which comes to 41mm front and 39mm rear sag. There are only 4 turns or rebound and compression damping. Tech @Fast Bike Industries told me to reduce torques of triple tree bolts from spec., to soften fork action from excessive clamping and it's done often; but never heard of that. I'm not sure if that's safe or by what # to retorque ? Any advise; TNX...

Well. I called Fast bike Industries and told me I needed to calculate percentages of sag for street riding. for street riding should be 30-35% of fork and shock travel (preferably 30% aggresive street riding), which measures 41mm fork and 39mm for shock. I used the motool device, and still rather tricky to adjust. Adjusting the shock causes to recheck the forks and so on till you get it right. I'll have to ride it tomarrow to warm oil, and recheck. I'll check back a later time. Howie..

Just checked receipt; spring = 8.3. I gave them my weight and riding style. 165 lbs. and street/canyon riding. I'll call them in morn. Is sag in the forks measured same as the rear shock ?

I recently got the Andreani fork and Nitron shock upgrade install done. I had to purchase a few tools, but was not difficult to install. I purchased thru Fast Bike Industries. I sent them my weight and riding style. I decided on purchasing and installing the NTR-R2 2 way double damper to match the adjustability of the fork cartridges. the Nitron shock and reservoir exchange went in well, and was preset to spec from factory; I just touched up the preload to get 35mm sag. The Andreani fork wasn't factory preset because of assembly and install needed. What I'm disappointed in so far is the spring rate seem to be too light !! i'm not happy here, esp. if I have to tare down the forks again ! I measured accurately using the MOTOOL preload measuring tool as I've used before. With all rebound and compression all out (ccw)I raised front wheel off ground; set MOTOOL to "0", set bike up to find unlaiden setting, then get on bike w/gear. W/preload ccw(all open), total sag is 57-59mm, and when preload is maxed out ,I'm getting 40-42mm. I think for the street I should be @aprox. 35mm w/ minimal preload before any rebound or compression damping is set. Am I setting up tool wrong for the forks ? thanks Howie...

No , actually, my wife is excited I FINALLY made a choice ! I'm just relieved...😐

Well;I decided on the Andriani 105/Y07E fork cartridges adjustable preload rebound and compression and the Nitron NTR2 shock w/ compession cartridge set up for my riding style and weight. subtotal Just under $1600.

Thanks for reply; I just have to decide betweeen K-Tech, Stoltec's(GP fork and Penske shock), or Andreani forks and Nitron shock. i'm sure it's a good valve kit and shock, but For the price of Stoltec's fork piston kit upgrade and penske 8983 shock, I could use the K-tech's Razor R shock w/ compression dampning/nitrogencanister and the 201DS fork cartridges for only $160 more ! not sure the diff. between the 2 of these choices. TNX...

Is compression damping being adjustable somewhat important ? That's what would justify for me the fork cartridge and shock upgrades.

Rode a Honda CBR1000, in line 4 whine, sat on several supersports(zx's and gsx's), similar engine tuning and clip-ons.

The aprilia's performance parrellel twin has great looks, sound and vibes and ergo's w/ character that make it a really fun bike to blast around back roads and such that most in line 4 sport bikes dont have. I'd have to put some money into the suspension though, and maybe a pipe, but still a fun 2nd ride. Considered Ducati but maintenance and cost and the heat on legs is a deal breaker.

ok ; I know i'm somewhat timid on that road and never will push my limits there. sometimes if i ride it several times, it seems to get easier, more relaxed and do better. Yea; I got passed up be a 84 Honda Sabre yesterday.😔 i'll have to improve my skills; something to think about. I still may want a different 2nd smaller/lighter bike anyways. I'm still on fence between an K-tech (201DS fork cart./razor R shock) or Stoltec's (GP cart forks/penske 8983 shock); $620 diff. GP forks and Penske shock being higher. Thanks for reply...

I probably will do a suspension upgrade, and may also be picking up a 2nd bike just for specific type riding sa. the Aprilia RS 660; and I know even that bike will need a few upgrades. tnx....

Just went thru the "tail of the dragon" 20 minutes from my house. Never seem to keep up w/ more sport oriented bikes. Suspension will be upgraded as dicussed, but for now fork springs are set semi stiff for cornering. it's better, but Bike always seemed altogether tall and sloppy in cornering. Will suspension upgrade corner as fast as a true sport bike; or do I need 2nd bike for high speed precise cornering ? Thx..

K-Tech told me to use a higher range weight spring in the rear for my weight calls for. My rider weight is 170lb and w/ gear is 180lb. Their rear shocks rating would be for 145-175lbs, or 175-210lbs I just worry it might be too stiff. I'm not sure how he figures it, and said it doesnt matter how I ride it. The fronts choices would be at either 160-200lb (8.5kg/mm) and 180-220lb (9kg/mm). Their he told me to stay within the lighter of the two. Should i be ok? There are no suspension shops where I live, but I can communicate with these companies by phone and e'mail. best I got. I live closer to Traxxion Dynamics in Georgia, but much pricier . thank You for replies..

K-tech and Traxxion Dynamics and others offer spring rates for different rider weights AFAIK. Is that considered custom fit ? also penske is more costly than others mentioned.

I've decided apon many suggestions to upgrade both the front forks and rear shock probably with compression and rebound adjustments. Some have recomended K-TECH. years ago I had Traxxion Dynamics set up w/ a Penske rear shock and there own spring kit for kawasaki Ninja 650. There's many others including Ohlins, progresive, and Racetech to name a few. A fellow on You Tube (2 wheel obsession) uses a company Stoltec more specific for Yamaha MT and FJ series gives full detail on parts, tools, and rebuild procedures for DIY or complete replacement upgrades. what would or have you to do or have done? If I go w/ K-Tech should I buy the front fork Piston kit or go for the cartridges ? I guess that would get me full comp and rebound damping, and then there's the Razor R w/ the compression cartridge. Thanks...

Thanks for info; I just ordered the suspension Bible. sounds like a 1st step. I'm still on fence about the Aprilia RS660, with oil leaks, computer glitches, but you'd just have to demo that bike to experience the Total fun factor; I figure a great 2nd backroad bike. The Truimp Street Triple, or other similar nakeds not great @ speed w/o a fairing/sheild or ride position. The R7 doesn't do it for me either w/ feel or looks.