superfist
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Posts posted by superfist
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On 7/31/2019 at 5:06 AM, captainscarlet said:
*Ding ding ding ding ding*
You've got it in a nutshell. I have also just test ridden a range of other bikes in my almost annual summer test ride bonanza where I try to scratch that itch for something new. But frankly every time I got back on the Tracer I just thought to myself "this thing is bloody brilliant, why on earth would I chuck tens of thousands of Kronor at buying something that is essentially no better for me, just newer?".
CS
I keep running into this "issue" as well. A friend and I went riding and we swapped bikes for about 15 miles. I tried his 2015 Ninja 1000 and for being a more powerful bike, it was a bit boring. That low RPM, slap on the ass torque of the FJ was replaced with a gentle smooth build. Also, I think my friend fell in love with the FJ-09 after an aggressive 2nd gear, 40 mph, A-mode roll on. That'll do it.
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Over the next three weeks, definitely do not visit the other sections of the forum like the suspension or exhaust sections. most definitely don't browse the vendor sections and steer clear of the build projects. You know... to protect your bank account. Don't say we didn't warn you!
Congratulations, welcome to the forum and have fun.
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On 4/30/2019 at 9:33 PM, fjrpittsburgh said:
When I've see wobble on the front end of a bike on decel with hands off the bars, a new front tire always solved the issue. If you don't keep enough tire pressure in that front tire, it will wear funny and scallop. I always keep 40 to 42 psi in the front tire and I never have that issue any longer. I've learned this trick from multiple experienced bike guys over the years. Some people think that high of pressure will reduce the contact patch size on road. You can follow me and see the results for yourself. Couldn't be further from the truth. Keep that tire pressure up a few pounds. You'll soon see the excellent results on better tire wear and longer tire life.
I had the issue with mine as well. When I had about 500-1k miles I noticed a slight wobble. Chased it round and round and the dealer's aadvice was "We can't find anything, stop taking your hands off the bars!".
By the time I replaced the tire there wasn't any evidence of scalloping or odd wear on the stock front tire. I've had a front Metzler Roadtec 01 and now a Michelin Road 5 front and both have been absolutely steady.
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On 7/28/2019 at 7:16 PM, koth442 said:
That's disappointing. I feel for ya.
In the mean time, would some JB weld patch those hols and help prevent more water from entering?
JB Weld is a good idea. I was considering epoxy with a small injector to get it inside.
I want to heat the tube assemblies up before sealing it to make sure any water/moisture is out of it first. I'll just store and hold onto it until I want to take the FJ from sportier mods back to more adventure oriented mods.
8 hours ago, bigorangecntry07 said:I've also wondered that..
I privately started wondering that as well, but it doesn't quite make sense. Why promote a quality defect? It was also around the timeframe that he was trying to keep up with volume and had just made some changes in the business. I think it's more likely that the rush to produce in volume resulted in some quality slips.
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I've had the cage for a few years and it's held up well. Before I modified the oil pan by trimming the fin and installed a flat drain plug, it saved my oil pan from a tall speed bump. I had no complaints while it was installed and I daily commuted with it installed for about a year and a few months in rain or shine. I did find some issues today and the details are below.
When I removed it back in May, I found what appeared to be minor surface rust in all of the bolt holes, despite having had the plastic caps installed. I just assumed the bolts themselves had rusted and didn't think much of it.
I cleaned up the bolts on a wire wheel and stored them in a plastic baggie. I also wiped away the rust residue that I found on the cage in the bolt holes. I stored it in a cardboard box in my house, standing on the skid plate in a closet (May 2019).
It wasn't until today (July 27 2019) that I decided to get some pictures of it and was going to post it for sale in the classified section of the forum. I wiped it down with a rag and when I set it on it's side, my hand was wet.
What I found:
There were some very small holes in the welds where the water was coming out. If this was from riding in the rain and the water got INSIDE the tubes for the cage, I'm not willing to sell it because I can't know what the condition of the tubes are on the inside.
Here's the hole that was releasing the water today when the cage was turned on it's side so that the hole was the low point:
There are 3 or 4 other holes like this one that I never noticed before inspecting the welds. I still don't know how the rust got into the bolt hole areas that connect the cage to the frame of the motorcycle. I assume water got past the plastic caps and pooled there.
While we're here... here's the videos I took for the classified ad I was going to post. You can see the flat spot I cleaned up after scarping it in the mountains, and you can also see the minor scrapes on the bottom of the skid plate from a low speed, speed bump incident.
Conclusion
For full disclosure, I won this cage in a social media promotion Higdonian was kind enough to sponsor back in Dec 2017/Jan 2018. I received and installed this kit around the same time. It served it's design purpose while it was installed and I never tested it in a bike drop. The Higdonian cage protected my oil pan from a speed bump incident. I eventually uninstalled it because the lack of clearance in lean angles while riding aggressively. It's slightly asymmetric nature means that lean angles on left sweepers was compromised and resulted in a lack of confidence while installed. I believe Higdonian has also released an updated design at some point since this particular model.
If I had purchased it, I would be upset and a bit angry about the holes in the welds and finding rust on the hardware. When I handle it, I can hear some minor rattling inside the tubes on one side so I believe the inside of the tubes may be rusting. I was going to sell it so that I could purchase an alternative (Engine case covers), but I don't feel comfortable because I simply cannot vouch for the internal condition of the tubes.
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I never noticed it either. There looks to be plenty of room for more fun on this tire.
So... I was also curious as to the actual purpose of these lines, so I scoured the internet. Including the Michelin website and couldn't find anything. My assumption is that they're lean angle indicators. Their customer contact said they were open 8a-8p Eastern time, Monday - Saturday, so I called their number and their offices were closed (noon Saturday). So I left an e-mail message through the contact point on their website with the question... we'll see if they answer.
Their hours are a lie! (Closed on Saturday)
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I've got a 2015 FJ-09 and it drops to half at about 100 miles. I generally figure about 20 miles per bar (4 bars) and that has worked for me. Then when the bar is gone, and the dash starts flashing, there's about 20 miles left and I consider this the "Reserve" portion.
I got 22 miles out of it in the flashing empty section once and put 4.5 gallons in when I got to the station, so I must have been on absolute fumes. I generally get approximately 200 miles per tank with an average of 44.4 mpg on the display, so it's pretty accurate for my riding habits while daily commuting.
EDit: Noticed I wandered into the GT forum section from the homepage area. I wonder if the fuel calculations on the GT version are different. It would be interesting to see/compare the behavior from others.
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For troubleshooting in the future, you can load an "in-private" session of internet explorer or firefox and go to the site without logging in or using an account and check functionality. This would either point to or eliminate an issue on your end and is an easy way to check if it's an account profile issue on the website end (which is what it sounds like due to the issue following multiple devices and access methods).
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3 hours ago, nhchris said:
So this issue is why I've switched from expensive helmets to economy helmets.
I am wearing a Bilt modular that costs $119. It is DOT (FMV55 No218) and ECER22-05 certified, but not Snell. I plan to replace it every 3 years.
While the fit n Finish is not quite as good as my old $650 Shoei, it is pretty darn good.
What do you folks think? Are you really buying more protection with an expensive Arai, Shoei or Scubeth lid?
For those interested, here is a link that describes how the various helmet certifications are performed and what they mean. I admit I used to be a Snell snob, but I've evolved into a DOT dude!
You're right in that you don't necessarily get more safety from more expensive helmets. You generally get more features or comforts. There are cheap helmets with ECE or Snell rated certifications as well.
With that said, I still won't buy a helmet that is only DoT certified. I'll look for either ECE or Snell, and sometimes also check the SHARP ratings to see if there are any issues. For one, the DoT standards are pretty old, but also that the certification for the DoT helmet sticker is a voluntary self certification. The NHTSA does not require helmet manufacturers to submit production helmets to any independent labs before claiming self certification. There are labs that test random samplings from production helmets that were purchased through retail channels, but this means any issues with the helmets aren't caught until after the helmets make it to customer heads. Some helmets may not get tested at all due to the sampling methods.
Here's a good article on the most recent standards as well as some of the things they test for:
Snell has some new things now with the M2020D and M2020R certifications with compatibility with either DoT for the D designation, or ECE 22.05 with the 'R' designation.
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I'm not a chemically inclined person, but my understanding is that the majority of what would cause degradation has to do with UV light exposure, which the shell blocks. UV could degrade the shell material itself (plastic shells), but the vast majority of helmet manufacturers include UV inhibitors in the plastic materials.
The EPS is generally unaffected by things like sweat and normal seasonal temperatures, moisture etc. The five year recommendations comes from a consensus of helmet manufacturers and the Snell foundation because the glues and resins used in the helmet as well as any petroleum based oils that might get into the helmet can affect the helmet performance.
Some manufacturers recommend 5 years from manufacturing date and others like SHOEI recommends replacing 5 years from retail purchase date. I assume this is similar to buying tires in that retail storage in a temperature and humidity controlled environment keeps everything nice and stable. When I worked at Goodyear auto, even the tire storage rooms were heated & air conditioned even though our work area was not!Once you start temperature cycling and wearing a product, it starts to affect it in the same way that temp cycles on a new tire brings that blueish/oily color to the surface for the first few rides until it stabilizes.
So yeah, for me it's replace the liners and visor as necessary and don't worry about the rest of it until it's in that 5 year replacement time window.
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I removed the foam from under the tank as well as modified the air intake and added a K&N filter. I noticed a slightly improved throttle response and a little more power. I did them all at the same time so I can't say if one or the other contributed.
Before making the changes I would only have to watch the roll-on front wheel lift in first and once in second I could roll to full throttle quickly without worry of wheelies (though the front end felt light). After the changes an aggressive roll on in 2nd will lift the front wheel pretty easily. It's otherwise stock with no ECU tune.
I didn't get pictures of the air intake, but I cut the tube about halfway. Then I cut it vertically to remove the half of the tube on the air filter side. The idea was to leave some backing to help pull air down into the box without the added turbulence of completely cutting off the tube.
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How do you folks feel about a mid-late September or early October group meet up?
weekends that I'm not scheduled to be on call for work that I might be able to plan around are:
- Sep14 or 15
- Sep 28 or 29
- Oct 12 or 13
- Oct 19 or 20
I usually get two weekends a month where I get to go play for a day. Like @duhs10, most of my riding is daily commuting so non-commute rides are a nice treat =)
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15 hours ago, Bimbim18 said:
FYI -
Timely luck: Ryan at F9 just did a very informative video about the different battery technologies and gives pros and cons of each!
I just saw that! Though, I feel like the recommendation of lead acid wasn't thought out for the different usage considerations for different riders and it feels like it was recommended just because it has relatively similar performance for a lot cheaper.
For instance, I wouldn't recommend it for a dual sport or adventure rider because the motorcycle may occasionally take little naps in the dirt so I'd want something that doesn't care about its orientation. I'd also want something thermally stable and that won't spill.
While his review took into consideration the usable charge, it didn't consider the total number of charge/discharge cycles which could also be important when considering how long the battery will last. This probably isn't something he could reasonably independently test and I'm glad he doesn't just take manufacturer claims at face value.
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I've had my 2015 FJ-09 for almost 3 years. While it's not the longest owned motorcycle, I've put far more miles and fun on it in the last couple years than any other. I test ride other motorcycles anytime I get a chance or a demo truck is in town and the only other motorcycles I've seriously considered trading for so far is a Triumph Street Triple 765 RS, but I can't justify the price when the CP3 engine is 90% of the way there.
While my feelings on the FJ-09 go Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde every few months, this forum and owners community has been an amazing part of the ownership experience. Seriously, I appreciate the people here. I go browse other forums and it either feels like a bunch of old guys that froth at the mouth to argue about mundane/inane/asinine little points on some esoteric motorcycle topic or like the community never checks the board except when they have an issue/question. I can only imagine that the mods here that keep engagement high and trash out is a big part of that.
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On 6/18/2019 at 7:38 AM, sirepair said:
I've replaced batteries in both my ST1100 and FJ09 with Shorai Lithium Iron batteries. As stated, they are crazy light! One in the 1100 will be 3 years old in the fall, 2 years in the FJ.
Only "issue" I've experienced is starting in cold weather. The LiFe batteries need to warm up a bit, so it is best to turn main switch on, so lights come on, and let it set for a few seconds before trying to start.
I don't use battery tenders. During off season I make a point to start bikes at least once every two weeks and let them run until fans kick on. Keeps fresh fuel in systems and batteries charged. If bike won't turn over, battery will likely need replaced anyway.
Wow. The LiFe stood out to me because I saw lithium Iron, and while I heard about it being promising about 7-10 years ago, I didn't know they were commercially produced because everyone just uses the shorthand of "Lithium" battery.
So yeah, I looked up the difference from the older LiCoO2 (Lithium Ion - which were the type in the incendiary hover boards) and the new LIFePO4 (Lithium Iron). Basically ALL of the reasons I had avoided lithium batteries in the past are resolved with the Lithium Iron batteries. My concerns were always chemical and thermal stability as well as discharge cycles. The Iron ones have almost double the discharge cycles, are more stable over time and aren't prone to fire, even when overcharged. Because you know... hot crotch is never a happy happy fun time.
I'll be going for the lighter weight when/if the stock battery in my 2015 FJ-09 ever decides it's had enough.
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17 hours ago, countersteer said:
Nice refreshing of your gear.
Did you blindfold the mouse before his/her just reward?
Lol. A firing squad would have been fitting! It did get a taste of peanut butter for a last meal.
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7 hours ago, bugie said:
I see the foot peg sits a lot higher than the stock one. On the Tracer you're going to have to watch out because it means that you will loose the feeler before you catch the centre stand on the ground during cornering.
True! I removed the centerstand a long time ago as well and forgot about that!
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1 hour ago, coachluciano said:
Thanks. Like I needed to spend another $200 bucks. Hope my exhaust sells fast. Lol.
One thing to note: I don't have my passenger pegs installed. When I was on the balls of my feet with my the stock pegs, my heals would sometimes brush/contact the passenger footrest assemblies. I don't know how much that would interfere, if at all.
And if I hadn't already bought the rearsets, I'd be buying your exhaust =( Seriously, with the Yosh and 2WDW holiday sale happening, it's a great deal. But I've gotta save my fun-fund back up first.
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New Lextec rearsets installed on Saturday! (And also found a really nice, quiet and picturesque spot in the mountains to relax for a few minutes). They're really well made and come with the brake light switch bracket included, so there's no loss of street functionality.
I'm weird... and I like my legs a little more folded. I tended to get some muscle fatigue and knee pain and would often put the toes of my boots on the stock pegs to raise my heals. I also never had that "thighs locked in" feeling with the FJ-09 and my knees would squeeze at the fake carbon plastic bits with very little other contact. It's all fixed with these and after riding 250 miles up into the mountains on Sunday, I had less fatigue and knee pain!
Side effect of a much changed position is a LOT more confidence in the feel of the bike under me and when it's leaned over. Sore thighs and back on Monday, but that will change as the muscle groups are conditioned.
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@onsite I normally roll up to the north Georgia mountains and the Suches area.
I'm open to new roads, new places and new sights. I was going to be up in the mountains tomorrow with a friend, but he cancelled on me today. I might just go anyhow (edit: maybe Sunday... Lextec rearsets get delivered tomorrow 😃)
I had a blast the last time we got a bunch of forum members up there. I'm usually solo and playing 'chase the super sports', but I am happy riding at any group pace. Except 10 to 15 mph under the speed limit behind a double stack line of cruisers that stop at every light whether it's green or not, with passengers waving their arms wildly off to one side or the other every time they turn on their turn signals.
@duhs10 - we really need to get another forum group up there again.
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Since we've moved to the new forum a lot of old threads aren't subscribed and/or dead. I figured I'd start a new thread to coordinate folks who would like to get out and ride together, meet up or plan events in the state of Georgia. I'm personally in the Atlanta area.
Who else do we have in Georgia?
Sound off, and follow the thread if you're interested in riding with other people or forum members!
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I also wonder if the fuel itself is affecting the fuel economy computer. If the original numbers were tested on non ethanol fuel and we're using the blend with up to 10% ethanol, we'd see reduced mileage vs. what's being computed based on volume. Also winter vs summer blends. I seem to do better commuting in winter, but it could be the colder denser air.
I have one gas station about 100 miles away that sells straight 93 octane fuel without the ethanol. My gut tells me I'm getting better mileage, but given that this stop is in the mountains, my right wrist and a lack of actual evidence are in contradiction with my feelings of fuel economy.
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On 6/10/2019 at 6:04 PM, cammy said:
anyone had trouble with the 2017 tracer 900 with the front end doing it s own thing when liggage'd up at the rear? any help would be great thanks people!
A few people have noted it in the past. Usual recommendations are to crank up the rear shock preload and raise the forks in the triple-tree by 5 to 10mm. This puts a little more of the weight bias back to the front wheel.
The spend money fixes are to get new springs weighted for rider + gear that you normally carry (minimal investment). A rear shock rebuild/revalve is the middle ground with a new shock/fork cartridges being the big spend.
I have a 2015, and turning up the rear preload, raising the forks in the triple tree and raising the rear compression/rebound to a 1/4 turn off of max setting fixed the light/flighty front end feeling. It also doesn't do the rocking horse on fast sweepers anymore, though it still doesn't feel planted when pushed. 230lbs with gear, for reference.
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On 6/17/2019 at 2:25 AM, fauzimnoor said:
Hi..
Is it possible to install new tracer longer swing arm (+ new mono) to old tracer models. Mine is 2017 ... or someone had succeed it?
Also, you can get a similar effect to the longer swingarm by adding a link to your chain the next time you replace it. There's room for it in the adjustment, but there won't be a lot of room for stretch adjustment over time. It's just another way to increase the wheelbase a little bit.
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Test Rides
in FJ-09 Tracer 900 General Discussions
Posted
He complained that his Ninja was "fighting" him in turns before we swapped and afterwards was amazed at how effortless the FJ was in the corners. It definitely resisted turning, but when we stopped, I pointed at his worn out front tire as the culprit and not the weight of the bike. He's still fairly new to road bikes and that front tire was 3 flat angles with no roundness left at all. Literally shaped like /▔\. So yeah, I can't really comment on how the steering felt and let him know that replacing that front will feel like a new motorcycle.