fr8dog
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Posts posted by fr8dog
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My 2016 is ridiculously noisy at idle and there is a "gronk" at low speed take off. Noise quiets down when clutch lever pulled, but there is still some rattling. What does cam chain rattling sound like? Is some noise normal?
So I guess I'm gonna join the party on this fix. I have to buy the basket. Repairing from scratch may be above my tech abilities.
I have 70k miles on the bike. I realize I can measure the plates to see if they're in spec.
Would you all just buy the basket and clutch kit and be done with it? Also need to get that fancy tool @dazzler24used.
Dan
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On 4/5/2024 at 11:14 PM, SnowyPoutine said:
Do you have the baffles removed for it to be that loud? I'm seeing mixed responses in this thread alone, along with the dB check another user did on here.
Sorry just seeing this thread in 2024 and weighing my options between this and the Leovince for '19 Tracer 900GT.
Baffle is in. It sounds good, just too loud. Not harley straight pipe loud, but I'd like it a little tamer. Just ordered the db killer. I'll post my thoughts when I get that installed.
The headers are a clean look and I like the looks of the 300mm can. Not into the looks of the larger cans. Stock pipe is like a piece of furniture. An eyesore.
The Leovince is a good looking exhaust.
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Last swing arm removal I forgot about being careful with the bearings and had them falling out of the relay arm. Got it back together, and had a local shop order everything.
Took a few weeks for everything to arrive. I dropped off the swing arm and relay arm. All bearings, spacers, collars and seals were replaced. It was ready the next day. I had ordered a new master link. Chain and sprockets are good, but had to remove chain to get swing arm off.
All back together. Rode it to work. All good.
After washing it today I was using some Plastx on the chain guard and noticed the guard was loose. Great. I must have reversed the two different size collars. Fixed that and now it sits. Not sure for how long. Kind of cool and wet here.
Not sure how long bearings are supposed to last, but I had that yellow plastic coming out last time. If not careful bad things happen. Bike has 70k miles. I'm good for another 70k or more.
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Another option is Norwest Suspension in Idaho. https://www.norwestsuspension.com/
A while back I was going to send my forks up to Terry, but I received an email or text stating he was no longer in the business. Maybe somebody took over the shop.
Website is still up though. He did good work. Sent my Nitron shock up to him for servicing.
Dan
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16 hours ago, Louis said:
I bought a Blaster-X Taillight and when installing it the light doesn't come on. I'm thinking it's a blown fuse, but don't know which it might be. Can someone tell me the location of the proper fuse?
I installed a Blaster X a few months ago. Check the parking lighting fuse. I have a 2016 and it's located underneath the right panel. Manual shows on the right bank on top.
I had the same issue. It worked and then it didn't. I triple checked everything, plugged old light back in. Nothing. Then decided to check all fuses. Not sure why that on blew. Replacing that fuse fixed the issue.
Dan
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I would choose a longer 300mm oval or tri-oval if you want to keep the noise down.
I have the 300. It's loud. I wear hearing aids when I'm not riding and I think it's loud. I wear ear plugs when riding so the noise doesn't bother me. The neighbors may have a different opinion. I may consider the extra silencer. Didn't realize that was an option.
Dan
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As an aside, I'm deeply jealous of places where test rides are a thing. They just aren't here, at least for new bikes, even as a long term rider with a clean record, and being a repeat customer. There's demo days, and if you can stumble across one it's awesome (recently had a KTM demo day where I got to ride a new 1290 Super Adventure) but outside of a specific vendor demo day at an event, it's pretty much not a thing anymore.
I have to clarify. I didn't test ride, I rode the MT10 at a demo days event. Just me and one guy from Yamaha. I also rode a Super Tenere and a Vstrom 1000. The dealer carried both Yamaha and Suzuki. I bought my FJ a couple of years prior at the same dealer without a test ride. Test rides weren't happening at any of the dealerships in the Sacramento area.
There's a dealership in Roseville that sells Ducati, Triumph and BMW. They had group demo rides every Saturday. No limit. I thought I was interested in the 850 GS, but it wasn't for me. Wasn't interested in Triumph and Ducati was too expensive. Actually the maintenance costs make me hesitate.
Anyway, I just read you put a deposit down on the MT10. Defintely a hooligan bike. Congrats!!
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Meanwhile, there's an new MT10 sitting at a local dealership looking like it needs a home. Hmmm.
Test rode one for about 30 minutes a few years ago. Just me and the lead guy. I liked it. Front wheel comes up easier than the fj. I leaned forward on it more which was uncomfortable for me. Nothing bar risers wouldn't take care of. I don't have numbers but I think fuel mileage has increased. I'm not buying for fuel economy though.
Dan
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Had rollers falling out. Got them back in. Going to replace everything back there. All parts are ordered. Watched some videos and realized way above my paygrade. I'll bring swingarm and the relay arm to shop and they'll replace it all. Not cheap, but worth it. 70k trouble free miles so far.
I've had the swingarm off several times and spaced out this time. I know to be gentle back there cause I had yellow pieces falling out last time. This time I did everything bad. Rag, finger and then packed with grease. Then a pile of rollers. Then remembered this thread.
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On 12/13/2021 at 12:16 PM, piotrek said:
I am fairly confident that what appeared to look like "hardened grease" was actually part of bearing design. I flaked off small bits of that as I tried to work the rollers... clearly a bad idea. Intentionally removing all of it... priceless. 😛
Old thread with great info. I forgot to be gentle with those bearings. I stuck a rag and my finger in there and packed them. When the rollers started falling out I remembered this thread. Oops. Back together, but need new bearings.
How are these bearings removed? I had the seals out, but didn't want to delve deeper until i had the parts.
Dan
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Finally broke down and bought some side cases. All of the zippers on my third tail bag were worn out. The zippers were all broken.
Tried waiting for a set of used oem. New ones are pricey. Ended up with Shad. The size is perfect for my needs.
I ordered from Amazon trying to save sixty bucks compared to direct from Shad. Amazon sent me a top box. Bummer. I would have kept it if I thought I would use it. Not for me. Sent it back. Ordered from Shad. They discounted 10%. I already had a conversation going with somebody from Shad. He wanted to know why I was ordering the bracket kit and no cases. Anyway it's all good.
I had led tail lights, so I removed those and installed a blaster. Also bought some Roadsmart VI's from Cycle Gear. On sale for $295.00 for the set.
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14 hours ago, knyte said:
Got an Atlas and it works great for me. Easy to engage / disengage, and easy to adjust. It's not so much a throttle 'lock' as a 'firmly in place' throttle. So if you find you're speeding up or slowing down for whatever reason, you can just tweak the throttle a wee bit without disengaging it.
It wasn't cheap, but the quality is there - and still far less than actual cruise control. Granted, CC would be the ultimate, but for now this does what I want.
Wondered how the Atlas was doing for you. Have my eye on one. Read about the owners on advrider forum.
Dan
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+1 on the K-Tech Piston Kit. Had that and springs installed by a shop in Sacramento. A very noticeable improvement.
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On 5/5/2023 at 10:21 PM, dazzler24 said:
FWIW - I went for an Arrow X-Kone system some time ago - It looks a lot like the Black Widow mentioned here. (probably why I like the look of the B.W.)
The can of the X-Kone is 300mm in length and I wouldn't want it any louder than what it pumps out and that's with the baffle in.
As always YMMV.
Just for fun - here is a you tube of the X-Kone can with and without the db killer compared to the stock sound. Not me, just an example.
Sound is pretty similar to the BW. I wouldn't want it any louder either.
When I was younger I had Kerker pipes on the two Honda 750 SS. I was a teenager and loved them being loud. Also had Denco expansion chambers on an H1 500. Liked loud back then. Not so much now.
I forgot which pipe you had installed. I looked it up at the time. A little more than I wanted to spend. I had a ding in one of my headers, otherwise I may have opted for the Scorpion a few here have installed.
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2 hours ago, Wintersdark said:
They've got 200mm, 230mm, 300mm, 350mm, and 400mm cans. I ran a 230 on my old MT07, and it was loud, but bearable with the baffle in. Physically painful while riding with it out.
I'm going to be getting a system fairly soon, though it keeps getting pushed back in favor of other things as an exhaust isn't really necessary for anything. I'm heavily torn between the 300 because I love the Tri-Oval can with carbon fiber tip (what you've got there), and a longer can simply because I remember just how loud the 230mm was.
They say the 400 is roughly akin to stock in volume but deeper and obviously less restrictive.
So for me, it's a three way battle:
- Definitely not a volume problem here as it is as stock; but at the same time the least fun looking.
- Middle of the road, fun carbon fiber and tip. However, probably comparable overall volume to the tri-oval below
- Sexiest looking, but maybe louder than I'd like. I'd leave the baffle in for sure; and it'd be quieter than my 230mm was due to a larger cross section and length, but...
I dunno. Can't decide
Easy decision for me as far as looks. That was the main reason. Can't believe I left that boat anchor on there for so long. The sound is a bonus. When going highway speeds I can't hear it. Same as stock.
I've already upgraded the suspension so why not. Gonna order a carbon fiber chain guard and rear fender. The plastic has faded and looks bad. Maybe do the clutch this winter to get rid of the gronk. Always something.
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4 hours ago, dazzler24 said:
Sounds and looks good IMHO. Is that with baffle out?
Baffle in. When I first fired it up It got my attention. I ride with earplugs. A little louder at normal speed, but accelerating hard it sounds glorious. I think Black Widow sells one with a smaller and larger can. Mine is in the middle.
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Installed the Black Widow Exhaust and had the ECU flashed by 2wheel. Service from both companies was great. Pipe looks and sounds great!
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23 hours ago, betoney said:
Is that your first time getting to the ECU/airbox? First time is a real bitch but once you know the drill its simple thereafter and can be done in a few minutes. Kudos to whoever designs modern bikes though, everything fits together perfectly like a puzzle.
That's a very scary situation with the missing nut and loose linkage, had the bolt backed out while riding... 😳 Glad you are ok.
Not the first time taking off some body panels, but first time getting to the airbox. I had waited until 26k service to have dealer perform major service. They showed me the air filter. Looked pretty rough. I'll swap out more frequently.
It's embarrassing, but I assembled it that way. Stupid. Luckily I hadn't rode it much. Swingarm got serviced so not all was bad.
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Black Widow exhaust should be here tomorrow. ECU is on the way to 2Wheel.
Getting to the ECU took some time. Gonna swap out the air filter while I'm in there. I'll wait til winter (snowed last night by the way) to tear down again to replace plugs, filter, remove excess plumbing and install block off plates.
OEM exhaust came off easily while on sidestand.
Handling has been a little off. Lots of wallowing. I've had the Nitron shock serviced and I replaced seals and oil in the forks. Wife helped check sag. That sounds kind of weird.
While removing the exhaust I noticed one of the bones on the linkage just dangling. A nut had worked loose. There's my handling issue.
OEM exhaust is a piece of furniture. Almost as bad as the 76 Honda 750SS I had. Installed a Kerker on it fast.
Anyway, I'm anxiously waiting for brown to show up tomorrow.
Dan
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On 4/4/2023 at 6:55 AM, Gophman said:
Hi, my 2017 tracer is having issues since I brought it out of isolation, it starts fine when cold and hot but if I leave the bike for a while (till it's below running temp but not fully cold) I hit the button and the bike turns over and catches and immediately shuts off. The only way to start it is with holding the throttle open while turning over and holding the revs above idle for a few seconds until it will idle... runs spot on otherwise.
My 2016 has done this since new. 60,000 miles, two major services by dealer and still does it. Usually smell gas when it does it.
I'll ride somewhere, eat lunch and that's long enough for it to act up. First start or quick restart no issues.
Forgot to tell dealer about it when getting serviced. Next time.
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16 hours ago, nhchris said:
The old air filter was filthy and should have been changed 10k mikes ago. The old plugs were well worn and probably the originals. Should have been replaced at 15k.
That's awesome! Mine were tight at 26k and 52k. Plugs and air filter were toast. I change those sooner now.
The two dealers I've used were reasonably priced and good to work with. I'd like to put all of that cash in my pocket, but I don't feel comfortable taking cams out and so on.
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13 hours ago, piotrek said:
Serviced the forks today. Replaced bushings, seals, and oil. I also took the polish off the stanchions a bit with 600 grit paper. The fork oil gets replaced once a year, but this was a second round of full(er) fork service on this bike (every ~40K km). I used the RaceTech inner bushings last time, but decided to go back to OE. No reason, other than I was already buying other parts from my local dealer and it was just easier. I did notice that the OE bushings are higher gauge steel, with less flex than the RaceTech set. Can't say if one is better than the other.. just a bit different.
The shock will have to wait another year... haven't decided where to send it. Kinda wish it were DIY rebuild-able. The Nitron was inexpensive up front, but now I am over a barrel a bit. Fast Bike Industries (NA cerified service centre) is no more... sold to Andreani USA. Maybe Accelerated Technologies (local shop) will help me out. 🤔
Sent my Nitron to Norwest in Idaho. The owner used to work for Race Tech. He ordered the rebuild kit from Nitron and took care of it. I think I paid 225.00 which included shipping back to me. That included a change for a less harsh ride.
Dan
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On 12/12/2022 at 9:32 AM, kilo3 said:
After exhausting my local resources for someone to rebuild my front forks, $500 dollars plus, seems excessive.
So in reality, what specialty tools are required to tear down my forks and swap springs/fluid?
In addition, what tools are not so much required but make life a heck of a lot easier?
As preface, I have no qualms about tearing apart an engine and putting it back together but suspension always seems like black magic to me with oil weights, measuring crap...ect so that's my background.
Stoltec moto has a lot of aftermarket parts for the fj. They rent a tool kit specifically for the fj to work on the forks. Last I checked it was around 50 bucks.
I'm all for diy just to get some tools, but renting seemed a bit more practical for me.
FJ09 Clutch Basket Replacement
in FJ-09 Tracer 900 General Discussions
Posted
Something like this. Price is in AUD.
MT09 (FZ-09) Billet clutch basket. Performance Motorcycle Accessories, Ninja H2 intercooler kit, MT-FZ Turbo Kit and stunt bike parts from Extreme Creationsice
Don't know if it's any better. I'm buying OEM. Should be fine.