tktplz

The biggest issue I have with taking parts off my current bike is I don’t have the factory parts to replace them with. 
 

I can guarantee that I would not go through the hassle of removing the Mccruise, it required splicing into the wiring for the ECU, TPS and cylinder 1 ignition coil. Additionally, I bought the factory FJR switchgear and custom wiring harness, I wouldn’t have a clue what parts need to be removed or altered to sell it as a useable unit. 

No betoney, just saying if the frame is tweaked and they total it, a lot of times you can buy it on the cheap. If you buy a newer FJ that is like 2018 or later I think the parts won't fit it. So you buy the totaled bike on the cheap and pull parts and sell them and make some money to buy the new suspension parts, etc. to fix it up. If you decide to buy the totaled bike and you get a 2016 or 2017, or even a 2015 low miles you can put your parts off the totaled bike on yours, suspension, etc. If the frame is tweaked, you have no reason to put the stock parts back on it. You won't resell the bike you'll either use the parts on your new bike or if your new bike is a newer model that the parts don't fit you sell these parts to get money to custom your new bike. That's all I was saying betoney.

I kind of went through the same thought process with the fog light bracket. After a while I decided that I don't ride enough at night to worry about it.

Here is a link to a picture of it and the PN for the whole kit is 2PPF85A30000.

Yeah at 61 I don't ride much at night but I thought I might hook up some lights for driving in the rain, so people see me or maybe fog lamps. I do ride the mountains in the fog. Thanks for the picture. I googled the mount, kit, etc. and didn't get anything. I just googled the part number and saw the complete kit. They are proud of it but PIAA and other lights can be pricey. 

We used to ride the dragon at 1 to 3 am back in the late 90's early 2000's. Those were the days. Not built up near like it is now. No restaurant, store, fire pit and nice motel office like it is now. Just a small building by 2 gas pumps, to take money for gas and rent out rooms. only 8 rooms back then I think. 1 night Dave went to bed early and left his door unlocked. We put Marcus's VMax in the door, cranked it up and started smoking the tire. Smoked Dave out. Rubber all over the back wall and on the ceiling.  No Killboy across the street. People used to pull track bikes out there and run them back and forth all day. There was hardly any traffic back then. Back when I just turned 40 or so. 

I will try to get it out in the next couple days.

Jeff

Thanks for the info, i did see it when searching the forum for seat information but im in the UK and his ad says only posting to mainland US. Plus i have just been quoted $343 for a new seat direct from Top Sellerie. But thanks for the pointer. Nice to see friendly help.

Ride safe 👍

I have used both a -1 tooth in the front and +2 in the rear at different times, the final ratio is very close.

Stock 16/45 = 2.81

-1 front 15/45 =3.0

+2 rear 16/47 = 2.93

With the 15 on the front you can get away with stock length chain, with the 47 on the rear I use a 112 link chain.

The reason I eventually went with +2 on the rear instead was rumors of smaller front sprockets causing quicker chain wear due to tighter turn radius, not sure if that is true but the final ratio was close enough I figured better safe than sorry.

I really like the change of either -1 front or +2 rear, it really brings the engine to life and only raised the highway cruising rpm by a few hundred.   

One thing to note though, since the is acceleration will now be a little more aggressive, if you have any fueling/snatchy throttle, it will be more evident.  I have my ECU flashed and bike default to A-mode but my fueling isn't 100% perfect, still have an ever so slight lurch with on/off throttle, I have just learned to use smoother roll on/off while ripping through the twisties and not close the throttle 100%.

Let me know what you think after you try it out.  👍