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gv550

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Posts posted by gv550

  1. After reading about many owners finding tight valves at the first check, I went in early to measure mine. At 30,000 kms all the exhaust valves were below the minimum and one was close to no clearance. That valve required the thinnest shim available so any future adjustments would require removal of the head and replacing the valve and/or seat. I traded the bike off a month later.

  2. You are correct, the 3 piece lock kit will not fit the Yamaha top cases, and the bike doesn't come with an extra lock for a top case. I bought the single key operation lock set 59c-281c0-00-00

    This is a lock that comes with various tumblers so you can 'set' the lock to accept your ignition key. The job is a bit finicky with small parts and springs and some careful measuring required but works well in the end. A locksmith would certainly be able to set it for you. 

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  3. Wow Mingo, that’s a smoking deal considering I got $9000 for my used GT with 35k on it. $9500 CDN is about $7100 US. 
    This does bring to light how difficult it is to sell a Tracer in Ontario, our insurance rates have really killed a lot of sales of sport bikes. I was paying 50% surcharge and about double the rate of my SuperTenere.

     I enjoyed riding the GT for 8 months but the cost of insurance and the PITA chain drive took the fun out of it.

     I have some parts and accessories in the for sale section....... shameless plug!

  4. 3 minutes ago, betoney said:

    I recently had a discussion with a rider who owns a Goldwing with DCT and he absolutely loved everything about it.  I would love to take one out for a test ride.

    I agree completely, my DCT after 6000 kms of wrist-pain-free riding.

    879B501A-A58D-4182-BEFA-EB2E05B7D5EE.jpeg

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  5. I have hand and wrist issues as well (arthritis) and recently traded my Tracer for a DCT. During the negotiations with the Honda dealer I offered my bike with or without my accessories and asked him to quote me a price both ways. The quotes were identical, no allowance for my accessories. So I removed my carefully selected and meticulously installed bits and did the deal, parts are listed in the for sale section.

    All the best to OP with surgery and possibly bike trade.

  6. I have the little plastic tool pouch under the seat, it has the helmet lock cable and one 12&14 open end wrench in it. Is there supposed to be any other tools in the pouch? I do have the Allen key, screwdriver bit and handle attached to the seat. 

  7. I use the Givi xs308, 20 litres, it has over 150k of use and has stood up well. I just snap it onto whatever bike I'm riding and have my essentials with me, a few pair of gloves, suspension adjusting tools, tire repair, ear plugs, extra glasses, kick stand foot, multimeter,  map, and room left to store my jacket liner. It is sturdy enough to lean down on if I want to tuck in behind the windshield.

    image.jpeg

  8. +1 on placing the shim in the valve keeper and making sure it is seated, and no magnet when installing the bucket. My dealer doesn't stock Yamaha shims, only had the Hot Cams kit and I found them to be slightly larger than OEM and it took more effort to install them as they easily get cocked a bit crooked in the keeper. I expect they would eventually settle into place with the engine running but maybe not when cranking the engine over a few times to verify the clearances.

    Also, in the photo earlier in this thread shows the shim in the bucket with the number exposed (toward the valve). The shim should be installed in the keeper with the number up, touching the bucket. It not likely makes any difference in performance but the valve stem is smaller than the spotface in the bucket and may wear away the number.

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  9. I just completed a valve clearance check and adjustment on my 9 month old GT,  well before the recommended 42k.

    All intake valves were within spec, .14, .16, .16, .16, .15 and .14 mm clearances, spec is .11 to .20 mm.

    All 6 exhaust valves were tight, .15, .20, .18, .20, .20, .20 mm clearances, spec is .26 to .30 mm. Swapped one shim and bought 5 new ones to end up with .28 to .30 so should be good to go for a while.

    I'll likely check them again in 20,000 kms, sure not comfortable letting them go to 42k.

    I combined this job with a chain replacement and steering bearing service, having the front wheel and forks out of the way sure makes this easy.

     

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