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gv550

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Posts posted by gv550

  1. My GT does the same thing, I've determined it is operator error.

    The switches in the clutch lever and shift lever are sensitive, and I was inadvertently touching the shift lever after shifting which kills the engine. I shortened my shift linkage a bit to slightly raise the lever from my foot and just pay more attention to getting my boot away from the shift lever after completing each shift. And using the quick shifter more often reduces the problem too, and more fun!

  2. 2 hours ago, Bimbim18 said:

    Care to share thoughts/ experience/ pics of having a 50L Yammie case?

     

     I really want the 50L so I can store 2 helmets but am wondering about drag or if will be somewhat oversize for the bike. 

    See my photos above, posted Nov 26. The lock and latches work fine, my bride says it makes a good backrest, and I haven't noticed any handling affects up to 115 mph. But..... no way, no how will it hold  2 full face helmets.

  3. 4 hours ago, rlambke19 said:

    It's funny how some shops in SW Ontario are getting them and some aren't.

    I tried to buy mine from Two Wheel in Guelph, but they got messed around by Yamaha and didn't end up getting any GT models.

    Do you ever take your bikes to Platinum Powersports in Clinton? 

    Rob

    Where did you buy yours?

    I lived in Clinton for many years and I've known Donald since before he opened Platinum. He's a good guy, I've done business with him but have never had him work on my bikes. I do all my own wrenching.

    I did inquire at Two Wheel when looking for a GT, they told me 2 were on order but none showed up as of Oct 25 when I picked mine up at Brian's.

    Inglis had a grey one in their showroom in Aug-Sept and we looked at it a few times but decided to wait for black.

     

  4. 10 hours ago, wordsmith said:

    Thanks for this observation, tktplz.   The lhs clevis pin is, indeed, too long, but it's what came in the pack with the new foot-pegs, and the clevis pins in that pack are not drilled to take a split-pin - they need circlips (E clips actually).

    Because the circlips were absent from the pack and I couldn't get new ones quickly enough, I replaced the split-pin on the rhs clevis pin, so that's perfectly secure now.   But I put a new E clip on lhs footpeg clevis, and I'm conscious that being so exposed that I might accidentally kick it off with my boot heel while riding.   That could end in tragedy!    I recall the same problem with an earlier Tracer on which I fitted these rubber-topped pegs.

    Just now, Christmas Day and all - but what the heck! - I have removed the clevis pin from one of the pillion pegs (both secured with split-pins) and fitted it to the lhs rider footpeg.   

    BTW, the OE clevis pins are a good 5mm shorter than those supplied with the new footpegs...  This has fixed it, and since I never carry a pillion the swap won't matter.   

    Thank you for drawing my attention to this, tktplz, I'm glad I've been prompted to remedy things. 

    I agree. I'm changing out my aftermarket front pins with OEM pins and cotters. Christmas Day and all, but I have to finish  peeling potatoes first!

  5. I showed this photo in another post, it may be benificial here if anyone is looking for rubber topped pegs front and rear. The fronts are the aftermarket ones others are talking about, I found these on eBay for $8.75. For the rear I used pegs from a Super Tenere, they match the fronts perfectly.

    The aftermarket pegs come with new pins and springs and as mentioned the pin is too long for the left side. Yamaha uses a shorter pin but it's a rivet and not available as a separate part. For the rear I was able to reuse the stock springs, balls, pins and cotters on the Tenere pegs.

    image.jpeg

  6. Fuel range display...... counts down as you ride to show how far you can go until empty. My last 2 bikes had that feature and I find it more useful than a display for fuel consumed. That said, neither are that accurate anyway, just keep track of distance per tank and know how far you can ride after the light begins to flash.
  7. I was inspired by Mellow's suggestion of leveling the seat, but in instead of cutting the plastic tray I simply removed the rubber bumpers from the rear of the drivers seat. With the tray still in the high position and the seat tang inserted in the high position I pulled the seat back enough to engage the latch in the low position. This does leave a gap between the tank and seat but I've driven 1000 miles (including a 400 mile day) and I find it very comfortable. Easy enough to try, and if you don't like it just replace the bumpers and it's back to stock.
    My wife said the rear seat is also sloped forward, so I removed the rear bumpers from it as well but found the seat then pushes against the plastic panels so I cut 1/4 inch off the bumpers and the seat still rests on the frame.
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  8. 2000 miles on my 3 week old GT, loving it. Not enough to submit a vote yet but in my defense the 9 year old Kawasaki that I traded for the GT had 425,000 miles (not a typo) and my 2 yr old Super Tenere already has over 50,000 miles.
    I've been to James Bay, Trans Lab to Goose Bay, Dempster all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, Chicken, Homer, Skagway, Hyder, Flin Flon, Meat Cove, Key West, and the list goes on. :)
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  9.  

    Haven't ridden yet but one way to out the front seat on high and rear on low is to cut the plastic riser in half and install the front portion but put the rear in the low setting. 20181104-092418.jpg
     
    20181104-092500.jpg
     
    IMG-20181104-092259.jpgMellow, have you had a chance to ride with this seat mod? From your photos it doesn't appear to change the slope much, but anything to reduce it would be an improvement.

     
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