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Posts posted by wessie
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At legal cruising speeds, or just above, so 70-85mph I often leave the bike in 5th gear as the transmission has a more pleasing note. At those speeds in 6th the transmission spins at a lower repm, obviously, and the note is not so nice. In Germany where speeds can be higher for long periods on the unrestricted autobahn then I use 6th as at 100mph cruising, the transmission note is more pleasing.
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Good news. So far, after I pioneered using the Bagster seat, there are no bad reports to my knowledge. I find I get off the bike and then remember that I haven't been fretting about the seat on the journey. It's usually some other age related part of my body such as knees or finger joints that moan first. Or my bladder.
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Your mother must be one of the oldest people in Australia. Enjoy the day
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I don't get your rationalisationDoes anyone know anything about, or have any experience with this type of thing -
http://i.imgur.com/IvVg9c7.jpg
POWTEC Quick Release CNC Billet Keyless Fuel Gas Tank Cap for Yamaha FJ09 2015
http://www.amazon.com/POWTEC-Release-Billet-Keyless-2010-2012-Gold/dp/B00WJ7JKMQ?ie=UTF8&keywords=fj%2009%20yamaha&qid=1462401417&ref_=sr_1_20_m&s=automotive&sr=1-20
The one Q/A and review are pretty negative, but the idea appeals to me. Having to use the key to open the gas cap since it's covered by a tank bag doesn't seem necessary to me.
Any thoughts or alternatives?
Reminds me of the sort of cap that used to get left on the top of a petrol pump with regular monotony.
I prefer a cap that cannot be left behind at a gas station and cannot be opened by an opportunist to either nick the petrol, lob in some Pepsi or a match.
Removing the keys from the ignition to open the cap means you are unlikely to wander into the shop to pay with the keys left in the bike (most places in the UK mean going to a counter to pay but you may be 100% pay at pump).
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It's happened to me once, maybe twice.
In my last life, as a tech in a Xerox factory in the UK I have some experience of this type of oddity. I put the casue down to a confused electron or two. As with your home PC, washing machine etc, the ECU on the Yamaha will not boot up correctly on occasion. Something interrupts the loading of the operating system from ROM to RAM, a sensor does not send the right reading, an alien dematerialised nearby etc etc. As with your home PC, turning it off and back on again fixes it.
It's not something to get anxious about, all electronics do it, even military spec. stuff.
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they have reduced it by £50 - bargain!Des that link to the Sargeant UK site really say £315 for the backrest???
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http://fj-09.org/thread/1646/fitted-any-alternative-hand-guards has pictures & sources - google the part no. 6030217910030 to find local sources - in the UK they are in stock at Fowlers in Bristol (also mail order)Can you folks with the KTM handguards provide me with a little more info on them, pics, what style, and so forth?
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Bagster has the same slope as the OE seat
Yes, you slide forward but I don't find it too much of a problem, I just move back periodically, which is the sort of shuffling we all do to flex limbs on a longer journey.
Yes the Bagster seat fits in high or low positions.
I think all of these points have been covered in the Bagster specific thread.
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Remember, the Bagster, Corbin and Sargent seats come with a new seat pan so you are not making a like for like comparison.ouch, 456€, that's pretty expensive compared to a custom one made by a local craftsman
If you have your seat modified that is a one off cost for which you benefit from for however long you own the bike. You are unlikely to recover any of that cost when you sell the bike.
With the Bagster/Sargent/Corbin seat you have some choices. You can sell the OE seat(s) straight away to offset the cost of the new seat or you can keep both seats, then refit the OE seat when you change the bike and sell the Bagster/Sargent/Corbin one. I will take the 2nd option and I will probably recover £150 of the £261 outlay. The maths don't look so bad now, compared to paying £60 to £100 to have my seat modified by someone like Tony Archer. Especially as whilst the seat is away being modified, you cannot ride the bike.
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http://www.sargentcycle.co.uk/acatalog/mt-09-tracer-2015-on-front-and-rear-motorcycle-seats.html
Prices have been announced - standard 2 piece seat is £356 delivered to a UK address. This has Carbon effect fabric & black piping
Coloured piping is an extra £19.
Heat is extra £120 per seat (so £240 for rider & pillion)
The backrest is an eye watering £365 so get a Givi topbox!
The UK distributor has the rights for the whole of Europe so EU/EEA prices will be the same plus extra for shipping. Non EU/EEA countries may have to pay import tax.
In the US, the seat is $470 plus $20 shipping so only about a £20 difference, which is remarkable based on past experience of UK/US price differentials.
However, I paid £261 to get my Bagster seat, so the Sargent is still an expensive option.
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With respect to telling which end has ABS activating, it is quite easy to tell as the back pressure is felt through the lever/pedal.
I often feel the rear ABS modulate on a very steep downhill road with a 90 degree bend at the bottom. The front end is so loaded there is very little traction for the rear tyre so the ABS triggers even with light rear braking. If you can't feel the brake pedal modulate then you need to see your doctor quickly as you may have some neuropathic problem.
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If enough people try it, rear brake only with and without ABS activation, 40 mph, straight line, dry pavement, and all get the same results, it will be scientifically valid. If enough people try it, and results are not consistent, then we will have to refine the parameters.
It won't be scientifically valid. I equate that term to something that would stand up to scrutiny to be published in an academic journal.
The last sentence also suggests that if the study does not confirm your assumptions then you will change the parameters until the results do verify your assumptions.
This is a model used by large corporations when they pay a university to undertake research on their behalf. They only publish the results that back up the marketing and suppress any data that contradicts their so called findings.
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that would be anecdotal evidence, rather than scientific as you are not controlling the variables mentioned in the previous postThe sciency part would be if you repeat my simple test and report back your results. -
For UK readers, Scorpion helmets came out very well in a recent Ride magazine test. EXO 1200 Air are from £228 in older colours, plain black £250 in Helmet City.
what seems a bargain are the earlier model EXO1000 Air for £120
http://www.helmetcity.co.uk/scorpion-exo-1000-air/
both 1200 & 1000 are ECE 22-05 Certified & Gold ACU Approved.
The Air models in the UK have inflatable cheek pads which might be a good idea
SHARP testing results not so good http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/testsratings/scorpion-exo-1200-air - 3* from 5, due to poor side impact test
Compare to Shoei Qwest: http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/testsratings/shoei-qwest which gets full 5 stars. In the UK the Qwest is the same price as the EXO1200.
Ultimately, head shape will dictate a helmet purchase but I will certainly add Scorpion to the list of helmets to try and the old model at £120 seems a bargain if you can live with knowing it is not so good as a Shoei in extreme testing conditions.
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With 1,300 miles on my bike, I figured brakes were worn in enough to test rear ABS. On dry pavement at 40 mph I hit the rear brake by itself and measured the stopping distance by referencing cracks in the road and curb. If I just smashed the brake pedal as hard as possible and kept it in ABS mode all the way to full stop, the braking distance was 5 to 10 feet longer than if I tried to hold just enough pressure to NOT initiate ABS mode. The less I let the ABS cycle, the shorter the braking distance. If the ABS cycled only once or twice, the braking distance was still shorter than if I let the ABS cycle continuously. I encourage others to do the same test and post their results.
Then I unbolted the rear wheel sensor and just zip tied it out of the way. This killed the speed/mph reading on the dash gauge and lighted up the TCS and check engine light, but everything else seemed to work. This completely disabled the rear ABS, and made it much easier to lock up rear tire. I cannot remember for sure, but I think the front ABS still worked, I only tested the front once. Once I bolted the rear wheel sensor back in place, the error lights when out, speedo worked, rear ABS worked, but I have no idea if error codes remained in ECU.
I have a service manual and could not find separate fuses for front or rear ABS, but I will need to look in more detail when I have time. It looks like pulling fuses disconnects the entire ABS system. The video at the start of this thread shows how to pull one fuse, so I am not sure why later posts refer to 2 fuses.
I still want to disconnect rear ABS, but leave front intact. My main reason is that it is easy to tell if the rear locks up, and I do not need or want rear ABS. With rear ABS disconnected, if ABS kicks in and starts to cycle, I know it is the front brake that needs modulating.
More experimenting to continue when I have time.
It's all very well doing this on dry roads without the distraction of other road users and pedestrians. Now go and repeat your tests, simulating urban streets in winter where it's raining, you exit a roundabout to find a pedestrian has ignored the red man light, stepped into the road and a truck has just spilled diesel on the road. It's situations like this, that are relatively common for commuters in UK cities, that make ABS a lifesaver for the rider and maybe others. I would also rather the car following had ABS so the driver doesn't lock up and ram me up the arse after I stop.
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I'm happy with the end of line Shoei XR1100 (RF1200 in US) for £250. Bought a 2nd one as I have invested in a dark visor and thinner cheek pads.I got the Diamond White for £350. The Shoei was 450, and whilst good in many ways, I missed the peak too much, low sun is easily shielded in the evenings.
The x4 is lighter and quieter than the x3, and the neotec
Hopefully the X4 idea of the removable layer on the padding is passed down to the cheaper models in the range
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and the price...
The X4 was a bit of a gamble for me. I've always liked the looks of these types of helmets but was a little concerned about lift and drag from the peak. Has been faultless and very comfortable. The only downside is having to remove the peak to change visors....excellent choice sir.
I bought an x4 last week to replace my shoei neotec that I bought six months ago to replace my tour-x3, 7 years old. Very pleased with the x4...
The shoei I have given to a friend.
The x4 is better than the shoei, and an improvement on the x3.
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In the EU, ABS is mandatory for larger capacity bikes now. Older bikes with ABS have switches to disable it (e.g. my 2000 model R1150GS). More recent bikes do not have a switch and disabling the ABS on a bike designed to have it "always on" could affect an insurance claim, especially one where a collision or venture into the scenery was involved.
Personally, I am very confident in my braking ability and rarely trigger the ABS in everyday riding - maybe the rear on a steep downhill where weight is transferred to the front, reducing rear grip, making a lock up easier. However, as a winter commuter, I would rather the bike had ABS just because I come across junctions with diesel spills, icy strips under hedgerows & trees, wet manhole covers etc. I see most hazards but in half light when I might be cold or half asleep I am happy for the computer to intervene.
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Read back, the OEM rear tyre was binned at 6k. Although not sure, I'm assuming he ran a new rear Roadsmart 2 with the OE D222 untilt he front wore out. This combination is fine as I and many others have done it. I'm assuming he now has a new front and part worn rear, both Roadsmart 2.
Be careful with that. While the tread is exactly the same, the OEM tire is NOT a multi-compound tire, but the Roadsmart II is. So, if you still have an OEM tire on the bike, the Roadsmart II may cause stability issues, and this bike is already pretty sensitive to stability. If you're going with Roadsmart II on the front and you still have an OEM tire on the rear, I highly suggest replacing the rear as well even if its service life isn't finished.Dunlap Roadsmart II...basically the US version of the original tire. If it ain't broke....
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Xpress mentioned it here and I've been wondering about the clutch cables as I've seen quite a few comments on the thread about them. It makes me wonder if the clutch cable is something that should be worried about. I'd like to hear from some of the guys that have gotten up into the 20,000 mile range if they've had them brake or replaced them. I find 6,500 shocking on a chain since I've been getting 30,000 miles on my chains. I wonder if that's because of how tight the Yamaha spec is?
For 20 quid you can remove all worry about the clutch cable - buy a spare, stick it under the seat. Fit it or get someone else to fit it if the original breaks.
I have done over 10,000 miles and @johan has done over 12,000 miles on a Tracer without a problem. When we go on a long trip we take our personal technician, who used to be a BMW tech for Park Lane in London. So far we haven't bothered him but I am confident he will get the job done in no time whilst I supervise with a Weissbier in hand.
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exactly - the main stand on this bike has a good pivot action - just make sure both feet of the stand are on firm ground and then use your right foot to load the lever with your body weight.
I use a simple procedure that my sales guy showed me to get it on the center stand.1. Left hand on left handlebar. 2. Right hand on left passenger hand grip. 3. Right foot on center stand. 4. Shift all your weight onto your right foot, lifting the bike onto the center stand, while guiding with your arms. You don't need to lift much with your arms because your body weight lifts the bike, and your hands don't get cut by the hand-holds.I’d like to avoid cutting the palm of my hand in half when hefting the bike onto its main stand, using the lhs pillion foot-peg bracket to assist the lifting process.
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Do you live in Belgium @zachd - I can understand needing those lights & horn in Belgium where most car drivers seem to have evolved to a point where their ears & eyes have limited function.
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12v socket is unaffected by rain. It has been tested today in the Ardennes. There is a drain hole.
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Fried cake? You take the boy out of Scotland...Added a large coffee and two donuts on the way to work. Worth every penny
What Helmet do you ride in?
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