wessie
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Posts posted by wessie
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the better suspension will improve the stock brakes - our braking effort is going to be affected by how the suspension handles the forces e.g. if you have a lot of fork dive, you may subconsciously be more tentative on the lever. If the suspension absorbs the load you may find the stock brakes get the rear tyre flapping about in the air.
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Wired in my new Keis heated vest http://fj-09.org/thread/2645/keis-heated-waistcoat?page=1&scrollTo=28099
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some pictures of my Tucano muffs used for the first time since I got the Tracer
http://fj-09.org/thread/2633/day-off-ride-near-malverns
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Fit muffs - great for cold or wet wintry days.
Even better if you have grip heaters or try these from Bagster - heated muffs http://www.motocentral.co.uk/bagster-heated-box-r-muffs.html
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oops, clumsy &%^#I was riding on a dirt road. Went over a rock and bottomed. Hit where the guard for the drain plug is. I'm missing the plug and the guard. A 3x3in ish piece of the oil pan is gone.
Some silly journalists have called it an Adventure bike. I think it is certainly a bike to have some adventures on but it ain't no candidate for Ewan McGregor's next foray into the wilderness.
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try the Ferodo - I have a set of the gold HH front pads that were destined for my Super Ten (seems Yamaha fit the same pad to much of the range) so change front & rear please so I get some feedback before using them myselfShortened the pedal throw on rear brake and bled it to improve feel - found bleeder valve just past finger tight, but no fluid loss. Will probably try EBC HH or Ferodo pads to see if they help.
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all we need now is a Monty Python reference and an argument about guns and this thread will be done, complying with the UK and US conventions of internet discussion...
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that's not cute. This is cute
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I have the Yamaha ones on mine.anyone know of aftermarket heated grips?
I used Daytona ones on my Super Tenere which were great. Oxford and the R&G ones are also good. All three are on Ebay.
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No. Edging towards 8000 miles and still on OE pads.Wessie, I'm with you - still here. US spec bike with hard bags and Givi top case, routinely run at or near limiter with a Large CalSci screen and have yet to find the wobble. Probably because I weigh 260. Once I reflash, I'll see if it's waiting for me. You replace your pads yet? Thinking of "HH" series EBC.
As stated in another thread, I have a set of Ferodo ST sitting here to go on the front. I spotted them on Ebay when I had the Super Tenere. Fortunately, Yamaha seem to use the same pads on most of their bikes so they will slot straight in the Tracer. Ferodo ST are HH rated and I have had good performance from Ferodo in the past. They are a pretty colour too
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the US site has the 2016 colours which include a not quite so blue version - there are 2 threads on the subject in this forum
Anyone know if they're planning on offering the blue up here?I picked up the matte gray, I wish I could of bought the blue one, but I live in Canada
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Most of the stuff about tyres is in your head. I think I am repeating what someone else said, you had a bad experience with a Pirelli tyre that put you off them. If you think about all of the variables: was the road dry for a period before it rained; had a farmer spread something nasty from his slurry tank on the road; had a truck spilled diesel on the corner; did a reflection mean you missed the patch of gravel? Was it really the fault of the tyre?
I don't believe there are any really bad tyres nowadays from Avon, Bridgestone, Pirelli, Michelin, Dunlop, Metzeler and Continental. Most of the problems will be from our own making (wrong tyre for the bike, wrong pressure, badly adjusted suspension, ill judged cornering); or from cheap suspension; or from poorly maintained or contaminated roads.
It's easy to blame the tyres and a new one always feels better than a worn one, even if you stick to the same make.
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I pioneered the Puig visor on the Powerbronze screen but my dimensions are much closer to my disciple cobby7 than your'sI use a puig visor on my powerbronze screen and wanted to see how using it on the stock screen would compare. In short, there was a noticeable increase in noise compared to using it with the powerbronze screen. I certainly wouldn't have been happy with that as a solution.
I haven't tried just the stock screen for a while so can't say what difference it made to that really.
Im 5'9" with 31" inseam.
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I'd prefer you to refer to me by my proper user name. Wuss is a pejorative word in my part of the English speaking worldThanks Greg & I guess Wussie too. Like I said my first FI bike with O2 sensor. Just checking with you guys since it seems you get most of the bikes 2 yr.s before us (U.S.). I'll just delete both of the above Wuss ,if I may call you Wuss, if not just delete, because I like Greg's information/experience which is what I was looking for. I figure about 20K mi.s by the way the plugs looked when I checked them at 8K. I've got 18K mi's on mine now in 7 mo.s of riding 1/3 sport / 2/3 commute/touring. She purrs like a kitten and still jumps out of corners like a cougar. Trying to get plugs ordered for a descent price. Found a box of 10 of the standard NGK's for $4.50 ea. from my go to guy Dave but his vendor is being slow about it. Might have to bite the bullet and pay markup of 3 times that. I know there are some FZ-09 riders here on the board that may have some Kilo's/miles on their bikes and have changed their plugs. Thanks again for the info Greg.
Type @ U Later
Steve
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also, despite the identical tread pattern D222 are not the same as the commercially available Roadsmart 2 - these have deeper tread grooves than the D222 and I would hope, last longer. I have no idea if the compound varies as there is no data on the D222. The Roadsmart 2 are very similar in spec to the PR4, which I have used to good effect on my last bike.
D222's I got around 5k miles, still life but not that much, Michelin PR4 7k but are wearing but to the point I changed from the 222's. The comparison though isn't like for like as my riding style on the PR4's has been 'more aggressive' on different roads.Does any of you high mileage riders have any experience with the two and what differences there are in the milage you get out of them?
Personally, I would be happy to have either the Roadsmart 2 or Michelin PR4 and I will probably base my purchase decision on what is in stock at the time I need tyres and then price.
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I think we have already concluded in the other thread about service intervals, that Yamaha's recommendations are based on market conditions to maximise workshop revenue than any engineering principle. Hence the shorter intervals in the US compared to Europe as the US consumer tends to be more anxious/gullible (delete whichever does not apply)
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mine will be changed at 12,000 mile intervals, as detailed in my UK manual. We have 6k intervals, so every other service
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you could put something like a Grip Puppy to cover the gap
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did you not notice the hyperlink to the review? In post http://fj-09.org/post/25434
I knew that, but it's great entertainment to poke fun at the English weather :-).Monkey butt can be a problem in the UK as it does get into the high twenties and low thirties in Celsius.
Looking forward to your full review.
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Monkey butt can be a problem in the UK as it does get into the high twenties and low thirties in Celsius. This time of year you have to wrap up in the morning as it can vary from near freezing overnight to 20C in the afternoon, so it is easy to get very hot if you don't remove a layer
I ride quite a few thousand miles in other European countries, as far south as Italy & Croatia on the Adriatic. Over 40C at times.
I use a EDZ wicking layer under any jacket or trousers which reduces wet spots that encourage bacterial growth. I was the EDZ layers each evening as they dry in no time. This seems to minimise any build up of bacteria.
As you will see in my review, the foam is a branded item, Bultex. There seems to be a layer of polythene between the cover & foam, which I believe is a method used by Seat Concepts too. The cover is some sort of plastic and not at all breathable so it will get warm in summer. Ask any further questions in the review page
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a what now?5300 center worn right down replaced today with p33, -
I'd just like to say, "I'm not dead yet."
I must be immortal as I can't seem to make this bike want to kill me. It's not like I don't provoke it and with a UK spec bike there is no limiter other than the rev limiter. That cuts in at 134mph in 4th gear. Not got there in 5th.
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possibly mentioned that already in this thread - I ride on roads in Wales & the Cotswolds that are surfaced with granite chips rolled into wet tar. I'm pretty sure these were responsible for me deciding to change the rear at 3300 miles.Do not underestimate the effect road surface type plays in tire wear.
I always kinda chuckle when hearing people who live all over the world trying to compare tire life.
Aside from all the "normal" variables, surface "grippy ness" is an important factor. Places like Hawaii and New Zealand tend to have very coarse surfaces because they use some volcanic material in the roads. Add in a 250lb rider who rails the twisties and its easy to see how a rear tire could be toast after 3,000 miles. Against a 145 lb rider who is very easy on the throttle, rides in a cool climate with very smooth roads. That rider gets 10,000 miles from the same tire. Not surprising at all.
What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?
in FJ-09 Tracer 900 General Discussions
Posted
I wish I was in Florida now. It's just gone 10pm and -2C outside. It will be a cold ride tomorrow. I'm glad I bought the Keis heated waistcoat last weekend.