wessie

I did, in 2015. As I ordered a Diva with some bespoke choices there was a delay but that was down to the factory not the retailer. I have not ordered anything from them since but would certainly use them again.

I used the Kappa RA307 on my Tracer and continue to use it on other bikes - it is the same size and a similar design to the Givi XS308 shown above. Kappa & Givi have the same parent company.

I had a Givi Monokey set-up on my Tracer. I do not have the bike now. I have installed their kits to multiple bikes. Note, a number of the original Monokey kits for the Tracer had the wrong part in the box for the rear cross brace. My dealer (an Italian mail order company) was on the ball and shipped the correct part to me within a few days. That boggled my mind as I thought I had done something wrong I am not familiar with the Outtrekker side cases. Do you mean Trekker Monokey cases or, as I suspect, the Trekker Outback cases? What I have found with Givi is to assemble everything very loosely to begin with, then tighten up once happy it is assembled correctly. IIRC, and I looked at the online PDF, the rear rack only attaches to the rear mount for the side case bracketry. Therefore, you will need a spacer only on the front mount to keep everything parallel. Without the rear rack you need 2 spacers but maybe the diagrams do not make this clear. Take car with removing the bolts on the footrests. Mine were done up with blue Loctite and this was stronger than the nasty alloy Yamaha used on the bolt. I had to get quite brutal with one of them after rounding off the allen head, drilling the hole deeper and then hammering in a Torx socket.

No. Yamaha has a 2A fuse on that socket with very thin wiring. It's for charging a phone or satnav. As the battery is easily accessible, just use the crocodile clips.

I have the similar Stop n Go one - this is 4" x 2" x 6" (10cm x 5cm x 7.5cm) - it is an assumption the RAC one is the same dimensions

I put a Tutoro oiler on my Tracer as I was, at that time, commuting a lot on the bike in all weathers. Changed jobs now and mostly use my car. The XR is only used for leisure and so far, in 5000 miles has not needed the chain adjusted, although it has had a service and a tyre change so may have had adjustment then. I use an aerosol lube occasionally and wash in paraffin once in a blue moon. On the trip to France, it got lubed once in 2000 very dry miles. Modern chains are fantastic and just don't wear like chains of old. I do prefer shaft drive and I have owned 4 shaft driven bikes (R1150GS, Super Tenere 1200, Explorer 1200 and R1200RS) but they do add weight and cost to a bike. I think if I was commuting a lot on a bike I would have the R1200RS. The low centre of gravity from the boxer engine and shaft drive are big plus points. If you do DIY servicing then boxer engines are easy to work on and relatively cheap even if you pay a BMW dealer. If I had to sell a bike, I think it would be the RS, though. The XR is just more fun - I have just got back from a ride on it in between this post and my last one. I deliberately ignored it for July and just rode the RS that month. I prefer the more upright riding position with the wider bars and the rate of acceleration is something else, making overtakes effortless. Part of that is having minimal power loss in the final drive due to the chain.

RS with the new 1250 engine has just hit the showrooms - shame the colours are a bit naff. My lupin blue bike is very pretty

I owned an MT09 Tracer form 2015 to 2017. I tried the XR a few years ago and did not gel with it. Also tried the MT10 and had the same thought about that. I bought a BMW R1200RS as I fell in love with that bike when I rode it in 2016. The Tracer was largely unridden except for commuting so I changed it for a Triumph Explorer 1200. Big mistake and last year I swapped the Explorer for a 2016 S1000XR with factory lowered suspension. This modification transformed the bike in terms of how I perceived the ride. The ergonomics were really nice and the bike also came with the BMW HP seat upgrade. I took the XR on a nearly 2000 mile tour of France, Germany & Luxembourg in late June. I love the bike. With 160bhp it is quick obviously. The quickshifter is the best I have used (very clunky on the R1200RS) and the semi-automatic Sachs suspension is superb. I love this bike, possibly more than the RS, which was a surprise to me. BMW must have a replacement XR in the pipeline as they are offering a £1500 finance contribution for 2019 models. I'm not tempted by a newer model of the same bike but I will have a dilemma next year: keep 2x 2016 bikes which are both fun to ride or chop them both in for a brand new S1000XR which might have 200bhp The XR in the Vosges in June:

I bought my Bagster seat from Silverstone in France. The Diva version can be customised with or without logos in a variety of colours. I recommend the Bultex foam option. Selle Yamaha - Silverstone Motor

reviving an old thread - this is available in the UK and looks very similar to the Stop n Go device, minus the pouch RAC Compact Air Compressor 12V | Tyre Inflators | Screwfix.com Order online at Screwfix.com. High pressure inflator with an analogue...

Clothing with a Goretex liner will have a DWR coating which will help prevent wet crap contaminating the outer layer. This does wear off but I find a wash once, maybe twice, a year with something like Nikwax Tech wash and then treatment with Nikwax TX Direct cleans and refreshes the DWR coating. I do this in a washing machine - Tech wash in the soap drawer and TX Direct where you put the fabric conditioner so it is added with the final rinse. My goto brand is Rukka. I try to buy their products on closeout. Not sure if you get them in the US but they have a reputation in Europe on the level with Klim.

UK: Shoei Neotec in white only £300 https://www.mandp.co.uk/clearance/shoei-neotec-flip-front-helmet.html

For UK riders, M&P have a batch of the original Shoei Neotec in white for £300 - modular flip helmet with drop down visor. Hurry before they go. https://www.mandp.co.uk/clearance/shoei-neotec-flip-front-helmet.html I bought an anthracite one when they had the last batch. Great helmet for the price.

What you're quoting about the 'spec' tells me nothing I don't already know. Doesn't say what the hybrid anti-corrosion additives are or in what percentage they exist. Looking up the MSDS of Yamacool; however, tells me that it is at least a phosphate based inhibitor package. I've seen the effects of using "any old glycol based shet" on water pump impellers, clogged heater cores, and rubber seals, and I would never recommend it. I recently inspected the valves on a friend's 2005 FJR 1300, which required draining the coolant and removing the coolant pipe which runs into the cylinder head. Someone at some point had put that crappy coolant in it and as a result the rubber o-rings basically disintegrated when the coolant pipe was removed. Evidence of aluminum corrosion was abundant. Cleaned it up the best I could. So remind me not to buy a used bike from you. But its your bike so do as you please. My point is that you can buy a quality coolant and not spend a fortune. Thanks for the insult and I will return in kind. Your so called analysis of the FJR is based on huge assumptions and your own prejudice. That crappy coolant may have been pond water. You have no evidence to say what was used in the engine: tap water, ditch water, Walmart's finest coolant or a premium brand. You have no evidence about the frequency the coolant was changed, if ever. I follow the maintenance schedule for all of my vehicles. I use materials specified by the manufacturer and I suffer very few breakdowns. I'd rather follow the advice in the relevant service schedule than some sour faced bloke on the internet.

in Europe, Yamalube is orange! https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/uk/accessories/yamalube/careline/service-maintenance/yamalube-coolant/YMD-65049-00-82/details.acc The spec is given on the page "Contains reinforced hybrid anti-corrosion additives, based on mono-ethyleneglycol, suitable for light aluminium alloys used for engine design" Claims to be compatible with other fluids - my 2015 bike came with blue fluid which is still in there after 16900 miles. If it gets changed it will be any old glycol based shít from a local motor factor

Grumpy wants links: https://www.fc-moto.de/en/Rukka-Chariklo-Gore-Tex - I bought a black one but it's only available in one size, Euro 58, and the pale grey colour now.

Just bought a Rukka Chariklo - was on sale at FC Moto in Germany. This replaced another Rukka jacket that had mysteriously shrunk. Sold that for £100, bought new one for £330 including a top level back protector. It has a Goretex liner, zipped vents and a winter liner. Did a 2000 mile trip to South of France. Very good jacket, especially at that price. For commuting I have 2x top quality but very worn Hein Gericke Cruise Goretex jackets. One has the winter liner in, one has the liner out. I just pick the one appropriate for the temperature. I also have a barely used Sportex Apollo leather jacket that gets an occasional outing on sunny days. That jacket has done several trips around Europe back in the days when I wore only leather and good quality textiles were rare. There's also the Keis heated waistcoat and a mesh jacket for use on summer tours to Italy. Finally, last year I bought a Weise jacket, reduced from £150 to £60. This will probably take over as the commuter jacket once the Hein Gerickes finally fall apart. It's not comfortable enough for long trips.

Shoei's current marketing campaign is to push their GT Air as a quiet helmet - some older designs are being heavily discounted in the UK with a third off making them an attractive prospect if your budget is around 300 quid. https://www.infinitymotorcycles.com/store/helmets/shoei-helmets/shoei-gt-air/,,548 is one retailer offering discounts.

for the UK check http://www.fowlers.co.uk/shop/sale-clearance-1056 - they have a big shop in Bristol but also wholesale to others for many brands inc Weise. I scored a Weise Dolomite jacket last year for £60 and mid-season waterproof gloves for £19 Current good price on the Dynastar jacket for £149 http://www.fowlers.co.uk/shop/weise-dynastar-evo-jacket-11424

Lithium ion batteries have a different charge requirements that a lead acid or gel. The charger must not desulfate the battery. My battery tender charger is over twenty years old and I am unsure if it is safe to use on this type of battery. So I bought one from Amazon just for the lithium ion batteries. I will be buying more of this type of battery in the future. Kurt Lithium Iron, LiFe or LiFePo are vehicle batteries Lithium ion batteries are those used in phones. They are two different technologies.

My bike had its annual bath. The chain got its 6 monthly clean with paraffin.

hit the red line in 4th gear and was indicating 138mph on a UK bike, no ECU flash not tried to go faster - regularly hit indicated 120mph - beyond that there is too much windblast for comfort I've seen some Europeans claim 233kph which is 145mph

What's the general concensus on riding tubeless tires with a plug? I've personally picked up screws/nails on 2 fresh-ish tires, plugged them and then rode 3-4k miles until replacement.I'd lob in a can of Wynn's tyrefix and ride until the tyre is worn out. I have done this at least 3 times since using tubeless tyres. on one of these occasions the tyre was only 500 miles old. I have yet to die.

I've got a Coats 220 tire changer in my garage, but have had both wheels off the bike at the same time, no problem. Put it on the center stand and remove the rear wheel. Remove or loosen everything on the front wheel to where you are ready to remove it. Then use a floor or scissor jack with wood block under the header or catcon to raise the front tire 1 inch off the ground and remove the wheel. Put the front wheel back on first. and I'd put a beer crate under the forks to stop the bike pitching forward and falling off the main stand...

the alternator should have no problem providing enough power to run the heated grips & a 2A/3A phone charger. I suspect it is more likely that the battery in your phone has aged and is sinking more current so hogging the charger's output - does the phone get noticeably hotter? I had to upgrade my car charger from 1A to 2A recently as the 1A output was no longer enough to keep my phone topped up if using google maps. The phone is a 3 year old HTC One and tends to get very hot nowadays when using google maps.