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taylormade21

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  1. Thanks for the offer,...I already have the seat and I'm not ready to actually lower the bike yet....ego and all. haha
  2. That's what I'm going to try to get some added cushion. Thanks.
  3. Just wanting to comment on the factory Yamaha lowered seat on the FJ-09. Just for reference, I'm 5'4" with a 28" (or less) inseam. I've done pretty well over the last couple years with the seat in the low position. However, me having total confidence ridding with my pillion, windy days and long rides where fatigue sets in lower my confidence dramatically. Soooo,...I broke down, swallowed my pride and ordered the lowered/narrowed seat. I went on a quick 70 mile ride today. The confidence when coming to a stop and at times with decent gusts of wind really increased. I really thought this was going to be perfect. But,...the longer I rode, the more sore my hindquarters became. Holy crap that thing is firm. At this point I'm still too prideful to not lower the whole bike....but may need to swallow that pill at some point. I'll see how the lowered seat goes with my pillion and may just use it for that.
  4. Very well could be the case. Below is the response from 2WDW. "The check engine light is often on specifically with the FZ/FJ-09 models only as a side effect of powering up the ECU outside of the bike. Any local shop or dealership can clear the codes for you within seconds through the diagnostic port in the tail of the bike, and then you're good to go! The light won't come back on unless there's actually a problem in the future. Riding the bike with the light on now won't cause any issues whatsoever." This leads me to believe that it's either due to the new electronics on the newer models, and/or the lack of ability to clear the codes on said ECU while off the bike unless the tuner has the proper software to fix it. Again, I'm no tech guy and just taking a wild guess...
  5. Ivan may have different software that allows him to make those adjustments to prevent throwing the code and/or his flash service is just that much more involved/fine tuned with more work put into it compared to 2WDW. (I'm no tech guy). So maybe 2WDW can chime in as to why that's the case? I do know however, that the tune from Ivan is $50-100 more than 2WDW...whether it's a shortfall, limitation of software availability that 2WDW have/doesn't have or they just run a more basic tune which is why they charge less for their tune.
  6. Also, this was confirmed by 2WDW after reaching out to them about the check light.
  7. After receiving and installing my flashed ECU from 2WDW, the engine light came on. After having my local shop clear the codes it hasn't been on since. My local shop guy says it's normal for that to throw codes (unless the flash is done while on the bike). You can take to a shop or dealer for them to remove the codes, or as suggested above getting your own code reader so you can clear the codes yourself. Unplugging and plugging back in wont clear the fault codes.
  8. Yep...Rode Wentworth Springs the last couple weekends. Great road for sure!
  9. Thanks for sharing...I haven't made my way up there yet. I should just do it.
  10. The adjuster knob on the bars (for the most part) really only adjusts the lever tension/distance and degree of pull/travel (based upon the setting of the adjustment screw on the right side near the motor. The adjustment screw on the right side near the motor really makes the biggest impact of the tension pulling from the clutch plates. (regardless of clutch lever adjustment, the adjuster screw at the motor tightens/loosens tension on cable from motr side = too long of cable, can't disengage clutch plates fully, too short of cable, clutch might not fully engage clutch plates in proper gear). (at least this is how it what described to me)
  11. Have you tried adjusting the clutch cable on the right side located down by the motor? This along with the clutch perch adjustment should work.
  12. Good to know. Thank you. not a fan of it not being symmetrical, but glad it's a non issue....haha
  13. I came across another thread in the Tracer 900 section that got me thinking. Below are a couple pictures of the front wheel (left and right) showing the difference in spacing from the couplers (spacers) sheen in the factory manual. It appears that the left side (non-ABS side) there is a gap between the coupler and the fork. On the right side (ABS side) the coupler is flush with the fork. Is this the way it is or will this need to be fixed? The manual doesn’t show a clear picture.
  14. I like the shorty levers on both. I have small hands and shorter fingers so they work great for me. short vs. standard length on clutch (for me) has zero difference on one being more/less easier to pull. But the short lever allows 2-3 finger pull to the bar without crushing the remaining fingers.
  15. I got the RC2 shorty for my 2017 from RevZilla. According to their fitment chart, these should fit your 2016. 2016 Yamaha FJ-09 Parts & Accessories - RevZilla 2016 Yamaha FJ-09 Parts & Accessories at RevZilla.com. Free Shipping, No...
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