Toddtr

2 hours ago, Bimbim18 said:

 

1st time with an OEM Chain (no master link) I've always just ordered a clip on masterlink from the same chain manfacturer (which I did this time as well, but the masterlink doesn't fit)

Guess I just got lucky with that first one I ordered, after that first one I always ordered one with the chain.

In the past I always just removed the chain when working with the wheels. Guess I could've just loosened it all the way and finagled the wheel off around the loosened chain. Just how I've always done it.  

You are doing it wrong and have been forever. Stop it!

Chain broke on its own or you did it on purpose? 

Any mods, what’s the most horse power you have gotten from your Tracer that’s been verified? 

2 hours ago, RandyN said:

I can't comment on the Akro system. I have the Yoshi full system and love it. I lost around 8 to 10 pounds, can't remember for sure on that, the sound is awesome, gained about 11 bHP, 5 ft lbs of torque and to my eye the gain is throughout the rpm range and smooth. This is all with a reflash of ECU by Vcyclenut. I do agree that a suspension upgrade is probably better money spent. I did that also. It all depends on you and the type of riding you do. I find that more power is best for me when I'm on the flat straight roads of Florida and the suspension upgrade is more useful in Carolina mountains. Check out Dyno chart. It got mislabeled on the chart, but it is mine.

Can I ask how much you have in your bike now as far as upgrades? If and when you sell it do you think you will recover any of those expenses? 

7 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

I spent the money on my MT07.  I found it much too loud, but after being installed and run it couldn't be returned, so... *shrugs* It stayed.  I did like it's look, and thought it sounded pretty cool, but it basically forced me to ride super slow and quiet through the area around my neighborhood to not be a dick, etc, etc.

Yeah, there's a *technical* performance gain, but in practice it's so trivial as to be undetectable.  You notice the *change* in the powerband way more, of course, but actual performance gains are insignificant.  

Ultimately, it's a cosmetic upgrade.  Now, to be sure, cosmetic upgrades are cool and all (mmmm farkles) but I tend to head into any exhaust discussion with that at the forefront: It's a cosmetic upgrade, and an extremely expensive one at that.  There's a hell of a lot of better places to invest the ~$1000 an exhaust system costs.

Hell, that was what I came to realize with my MT07 - I could have spent the extra $1000 when I bought the bike and got an MT09 instead, and rather than gaining ~2hp I'd have gained some 50hp.

Exactly. I know it’s a personal thing but I see people spending well over 2k on upgrades when they should have just went with another kind of bike. Trying to be lighter or faster, making the bike into something it was never intended to be. It’s not a sport bike and it never will be. I like my bike but after riding with some pretty fast guys the other day I know if I want to keep up with the R1s etc. then I need an R1 or something similar. Your bike your choice but I think when you look at how much money you tossed into it then things can go south. Exhaust, suspension, and other farkles add up and probably more than most will admit. 

Fixed or still wrenching?

I stand corrected sir. 

Kind of a silly question to ask. If anyone spends that kind of money on a show pipe they will not say they don’t like it. It’s very expensive and nets a few horsepower so it has to be only for the sound or looks. Heck just get to your correct BMI and it would achieve better results as far as power goes, even Albert knows that. Also, no riding fat bottom girls, they really don’t make the world go round 

Maybe you drag the rear brake when you ride or are very aggressive on them and it warped it. It definitely would get really hot, it’s like a heat sink for the caliper since it’s aluminum and it’s definitely a possibility. I’m going out to ride and I’m going to beat the s... out of the rear brake and shoot it with my thermo gun to see how hot it gets. I’m just going to put it here with the edit....265 F is what I got. That’s after braking with rear only many times then jumping off and shooting the aluminum holding the caliper. I didn’t drag the brakes but I’m sure if I did it would get much hotter. Just asking but can’t aluminum have a hair line crack invisible to the naked 👁? 

The aluminum carrier thingy is warped. Anyone close who could let you borrow one just to check?

I’m going to say that this is very disappointing to say the least. All these replies and don’t nobody on here know squat, myself included. I can’t wait until he finds out what’s wrong with it.....can we please do a poll so we can flame each other because of the responses? I think most are assuming it’s installer error, I think otherwise but I’m not very smart

3 minutes ago, trevinator said:

really? the rotor is a flat surface. if you use a straight edge to go from one side to the other, you would be able to tell if its bent by any light shown under the straight edge. im not measuring how square the rotor is to the center stands pads/ground here, just checking that the rotor is not warped from its own mounting points. ever hear the saying "if an engineer had to fix something they designed, they would have designed it differently"? 

Ok let’s assume it’s tilted 5 degrees, the way you are doing it you would never know, it’s impossible. Now if you are saying it has a bent spot in the rotor, ok but possibly the whole rotor is at an angle, possibly....I don’t know what’s wrong with it, seems no one else on here does either. I’m hoping he finds out and let’s us know, maybe we should poll this one to see who’s right if anyone is. I completely agree with you on engineers, they only make things worse most of the time 

1 hour ago, trevinator said:

i also see a mark on the wheel from where the pads were scraping it, which is definitely not supposed to happen. have you put a straight edge across the face of the rotor to rule out that its not bent? i put arrows to the silver bushing that should be on your rear caliper. is it possible that the silver bushing is missing in your bike, or if its there, that the rubber is on the end of it tilting the caliper? also put a photo of how to check the rotor to see if its bent. just make sure the straight edge doesnt go over the bolt heads since they are proud of the rotor face.

Checking off straightness with a square on the grass in the yard, blasphemy or maybe heresy. He already had an engineer check this and now here you come with whatever it is that you are trying to do. How can you tell if it’s straight when doing it the way you show? 

I actually know what the problem is now. You brought an engineer into a problem and now it has become compounded x infinity, I’m sorry but all hope is lost 

Time to set it on fire, it can’t be fixed

If that’s  the case your wheel is crooked. Take a framing square to the ground and contact bottom and top of wheel, if it’s off something is wrong or the carrier for your brake caliper is bent. It’s leaning to the left when looking from behind 

Exactly.......

Guess I will say it again, possibly a failed part that just happened at the same time you removed the wheel. Master, something in the line.....I know it’s been bled but possibly foreign contamination that won’t come out threw the bleeder screw???? Ghost perhaps or if you just had dental work turdhats. Keep us updated please 

I always loved the Honda XLs but never had one. My first dirt bike and last was a KLR 450, she cracked 4 ribs the second day I had her. I found out real quick that jumping hills was not for the inexperienced, needless to say I got rid of that mean b.... My ex had to lift me out of bed for the next 3 mornings because both sides of my rib cage were damaged, never again. 

It was a turd, heavy and didn’t handle well at all. If I was buying an older bike a clean Katana 1100 would be my first choice, then probably the R1. Around here a nice R1 2002-2004 goes for less than 5k some are closer to 3k. Probably have a hard time finding a late 80s early 90s bike In good condition but it’s not impossible. Just remember those older sport bikes are like dinosaurs, they have chokes and carbs that require maintenance. Side note: the aprilia even though fuel injected had a manual choke. If you tried to get going with anything under 160 on the temp gauge it would stall out, took a while to get used to that. 

33 minutes ago, keithu said:

That's almost the History of Sportbikes right there. What didn't you like about the '93? Obviously we've all read that they were overweight, but this sort of thing is always more important in magazine comparos than in the real world. 

A friend of mine racked up serious miles on a Katana 1100, well over 100k I think. Here is Tom being arrested on his Katana in 1997. The officer kindly allowed Tom to ride his bike to the jail so it wouldn't be impounded.

It was the weight and the handling, it IMO was a step back from the 1987 model I had. Now the 929 was a huge step up from the cbr 900 and it handled fantastic. Your friend looks happy for a guy going to jail

In order 1985 Ninja 900, 1987 Gsxr 750, 1990 Katana 1100, 1993 Gsxr 750..worst of them all, 1999 Cbr 900, 2000 929, 2002 R1, 2006 750, 2009 Aprilia 550. I hate to say this but the Katana was probably the best handling bike in the turns. The R1 had many track days and at that time was a beast and I had a great time with it. The Aprilia was awesome but finicky, now I’m on an old man Tracer GT

Possibly it’s time to look into a trike? When it’s hard to get on or off a bike then maybe a lower bike isn’t the answer, safety for yourself and others should be of concern. My father is 88 and still has a mind of a 50 year old but his body shows its age. Reactions are too slow to ride and too slow to drive, it’s a shame but it’s just the way it is. He decided when he got his first ticket ever for running a stop sign at 80 that his driving would be limited, now it’s non existent. I hope no matter what you stay safe but also keep everyone in your path safe as well

30 minutes ago, hammer said:

Nope, didn't touch anything past the sprocket. 

So everything is back in place. Chain is adjusted etc etc. 

No brake grabbing, rubbing or grinding but I haven't hit the pedal yet...

10, 9, 8, 7, 6.....

And failure! Back piston won't release. 

Bike for sale! Lol

Finally, a voice of reason, sell that crap. I don’t know but it’s possible that you have a bad caliper, I mean that never ever happens right? No way they could make a bad one or it just happen to go bad when you changed the tire......nope, completely impossible. 

On 3/6/2019 at 3:39 PM, koth442 said:

I put a short on HD stock... It's done nothing but go up since!

Ha ha