Wintersdark

On 7/19/2023 at 11:23 PM, OZVFR said:

I wish they were cannons sometimes, hit a kangaroo at 120 on my VFR, at the last second I stood up and gunned it.

Only broke my mudguard and front wheel needed realigning, but a little bit of poop came out of me.

My mate hit an emu doing 160, broke the top triple clamp but somehow stayed upright, the emu exploded.

Over the years I've hit kangaroos, one emu, goannas, dingos, an eagle (that one took me by surprise), a flock of cockatoos doing 180, one got my throttle hand and went through my glove and drew blood, a plague of locust that lifted from a field and went across the front of me doing 150 and instantly totally blocked my visor and went into my partially open jacket and inside my helmet. It was mid summer and 47°C with 140km to go, had to use my last bit of water to try clean my visor so I could see where I was going.

A force field would be a better option, I think that's on the next model Tracer.

It's always helpful to have one of these posts to remind me why I don't want to live in Australia every now and again.

And yeah, I bet it will be an option on the next Tracer, it's got every other electrical doodad.

16 hours ago, Ride365 said:

None of this is making sense, including the dealer visit. 

Yeah.  I'm *really* dubious, and I'll admit I hate the idea of throwing parts(wheel speed sensors) at the bike in search of a solution instead of diagnosing it properly.  It might work, or it might be lighting $280 on fire.  A proper diagnostic run would cost less than $100 at a good shop.  Sure, maybe you pay $100, then need to pay another $90 for a new front speed sensor, but for any other outcome you're much better off - particularly if the problem isn't either wheel speed sensor!

I *know* Yamaha's diagnostic will show how the wheel speed sensors are running as that was done to diagnose my intermittently stopping cruise control problem (due to sprocket size change). 

I'm definitely interested in what ends up being the solution regardless.

Anyways, I've said my piece and I'll leave it at that.  

19 hours ago, OZVFR said:

All my friends have changed over to Quadlock over the last few years after seeing my one.

Antivibe mount with wireless charging is the go, no other brand comes close.

Peak Designs are good, they make camera tripod mounts and camera straps which I use, pricy but good, they don't do anything better than Quadlock for motorcycles IMO.

Best, you don't have the fiddly rubber band BS of ram mounts which you need, because the design of ram mounts can fling a phone out if it starts to move at all.  Way faster to attach and remove your phone with the Quadlock mount.

The downside is you need a Quadlock case, which limits you to Apple, Samsung, and Google's phones (AFAIK) and you can't pick random fashion cases.  Meh. 

Still, for me, the proof is in the pudding.  Thousands of kilometers offroad, with a good chunk of that being pretty hard offroad with crashes, and never a lost phone.  I'd *never* trust a ram mount to that.

1 hour ago, robzilla said:

I've been a huge supporter of Peak Design's mounts and cases when it first Kick Started including this motorcycle RAM mount. I've had it on my T9GT as well as the ever so vibration heavy C14. So far my iPhone 12 Pro has been solid.  The whole eco-system of case + various mounts works seamlessly. Definitely would recommend over the quadlock.

Why?

I haven't used Peak Designs gear at all, so I can't speak for them, but I've extensively used RAM mounts and Quadlock mounts.  My ram mounts cost me a phone (off the bike at 180kph), my Quadlock mounts (with antivibration and wireless charging) have been on my Tracer and Tenere 700 for two years without a hitch...

And I'll point out, my Tenere has been crashed hard 10+ times with my phone on it.  Ridden up and down mountains, at high speed smashing down trails, over logs and through rivers.  They physically lock the phone in place, it can't fall off.

My RAM mount failed because it was windy.

2 hours ago, Rdecae81 said:

they could not read the ECU.  So they got nothing.  They said their laptop would not show anything.  And they were able to read another bike, so it was not the laptop, but in fact it was my bikes ECU not connecting with the ODB reader.

That's problematic.  Where are you?

I'm going assuming you're in North America.  This PROBABLY applies elsewhere, but it definitely does in North America.

Specifics matter here. Assuming your dealer is competent, "Could not read the ECU" is not an answer - ODB2 is mandated by law and irrespective of whether there are codes(the check engine light and codes are only a small part of OBD2) you should be able to connect with an ODB2 device and read engine diagnostics.  If the dealer is unable to communicate with the ECU at all, there's something seriously wrong, but I strongly suspect that's not exactly what they said (or meant) unless they are actually really incompetent.

The symptoms you report are normal behavior for when there's an ECU fault code - it'll lock you out of the menus and not enable cc.  

I suspect, as you did not run the bike on the center stand (the single biggest cause of this) is possibly that you damaged the abs sensor or failed to install it properly, but honestly I think that's doubtful - you'd probably know it. 

I would STRONGLY recommend you take it to an official Yamaha dealer with Yamaha certified techs, who can hook it up to Yamaha's diagnostic software.  Because clearly your current dealer either has limited equipment, is just not very competent, or ...? I don't even know, but it sounds very questionable this point.

Basically while it's possible that you damaged/incorrectly installed the wheel speed sensor and that triggered a fault code, the dealer should have been able to diagnose and fix that immediately.  His inability to do that or give you an exact solution is frankly damning.

You can also trigger a CIL by running the rear wheel when on the center stand. The bike sees the rear moving but not the front and this throws a fault.  

But yeah, a quick read of codes is what should happen, just so one knows what's going on - and having the setup to check codes (and on your cars too) is very much worthwhile, particularly given how inexpensive it is.

15 hours ago, Rdecae81 said:

ok got it.  I have now done some reading, so I will just get teh LX version and connect to my windows laptop.  that way I do not have to get the far more expensive iPhone verson

Huh?  There's no cost based on phone, you can just use the LX and connect it to any phone by Bluetooth and use TorqueODB (free)

22 hours ago, Rdecae81 said:

ok so I need both items.  the cable goes from the bike to the OBDLink, and then phone app to OBDLink?

correct?

Yep.  OBDLink to phone via Bluetooth.  I leave the adapter cable plugged in under the seat, bought a second for the Tenere, but keep the adapter off as it sees use in the jeep as well.  

8 hours ago, kilo3 said:

@Wintersdark Did you need a basket carrier to take that off? I've been able to get by with wood/whatever I have laying around so far but I know the day will come.

No.  I put it in 6th, and used a cam strap around the skylift arm and the rear brake lever to hold the brake on. Alternatively could just stand on the brake while you turn it.  Either way, works fine.  Don't need a tool to hold it.

Opened the stakes, heated the nut, popped it off with an impact.

the whole process took maybe two hours, but even then only because I spent a lot of time between the service manual and a video, just to be sure I didn't mess anything up.

I could swap a clutch pack in less than an hour now no problem. It's really easy.

Threw the Tracer up on the lift and swapped out the clutch basket for one of the upgraded 2021+ baskets to hopefully alleviate GRONK. My first time into a motorcycle clutch, yay me! 

Springs and plates all within spec, so reused everything.

I had a good 3mm of travel between the driven gear and the basket just moving it by turning the rear tire in 6th.  I'll grind off the rivets sometime in the future and investigate the condition of the rubber dampers, but that seems pretty excessive even compared to what I've seen perusing YouTube videos. 

The Skylift happily proved itself again, such an easy job when you can just pull up a chair and have the clutch right in front of you at eye level, no reaching, leaning, squatting, etc. I was curious how it'd handle 90ftlbs on the nut - no problems at all, on or off. 

Sadly, it's Sunday, and it turns out every motorcycle shop in town is closed Sundays, so new oil and filter will have to wait till Wednesday. 

2 hours ago, Rdecae81 said:

any chance you have a link to the correct code reader for a 2019 Tracer 900 GT?

I would buy one in a heart beat and even pay for overnight shipping.  But I have looked at the threads in this forum and all the links to code readers are expired.

Any one will work.  The adapter is a Yamaha 4-pin to OBD2 adapter.  

I use the readers that interface with your smartphone over Bluetooth as they do so much more than just read codes - you can get live diagnostic data as well.  The cheap $5 blue ones usually work, but I recommend the OBDLink Scan Tool LX 

https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-lx/

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/134172786456

But seriously, it's not a fiddly thing, any one will work.

Edit to add: I prefer TorqueODB as a phone app to interface with it, but the Scantool LX has its own software that's pretty good too.  You can use any software with any adapter.

Ooooh I didn't know it'd tighten the front suspension when ACC was slowing the bike, that's a cool feature. 

Also nice to hear it's still sub-500lbs.  That's long been the real advantage of the Tracer as a sport tourer - it's light enough to be fun in the twisties and to really get a good return from the CP3's power. 

I really agree about the TFT as well - don't really like the twin displays.  

On 7/12/2023 at 10:58 AM, Heli ATP said:

Most everything soon is gonna be operated and run by AI anyways. 😄

(If these posts had sound they would be indistinguishable).

I asked ChatGPT, and while it reassured me that "AI is not going to replace humans anytime soon" ... it seemed a bit sus:

On 7/10/2023 at 8:29 PM, arthur said:

Well, I haven't actually done it yet, but I am so committed that it is as good as done - as soon as I have written a couple of posts and had some supper.

Today I took the stock windshield off! - For me, it is worse than nothing.

Yeah, the stock windshield is hot garbage.  I'm a huge fan of the Puig Sport, personally.  Keeps the front end looking nice but doesn't cause buffeting, which it seems is the only thing the stock windshield does.

On 7/9/2023 at 9:51 AM, duckie said:

Hmmmmm…..seems you dont pay much attention if the computer brakes before you would.

No matter how much attention you're paying, no matter how fit or trained you are, the computer is faster than you are.  Now I'm not saying you should rely on that, that you should just stop paying attention, obviously not. But even if you're totally 100% tuned in and focused, it's like traction control, or ABS.  It's testing hundreds to thousands of times per second with tremendous precision, and can react before a human brain has even understood what it's seeing, let alone started to respond.  

But was said: Nobody is ever 100%, 100% of the time.  Nobody.  If it's faster than you at your absolute best - and it is - it's definitely faster than you when you're momentarily distracted.  

On 7/9/2023 at 9:42 AM, duckie said:

So basically you are riding impaired because you are tired and are relying on the computer to make think you are riding safe. 
 

Not at all.  The reality is *nobody* is 100% attentive 100% of the time.  Nobody.  Anyone who says they are is a bloody liar.  This isn't opinion, it's simply fact - nobody can maintain perfect focus and concentration for hour after hour.

So you're, let's say, 70%.  You're not falling asleep or anything, you're still paying attention to your surroundings, but you're relaxed. It's a highway, and you're on your way home. There's some traffic, but everyone is doing the speed limit and things are moving smoothly.

There's no point in passing, because there'll just be another car.  You could slow down, but then you'll have an endless line of angry people passing you.

You glance over at some deer on the side of the road - they're pretty, and their also insanely suicidal, so you want to make sure they're not going to do something stupid.  The guy in front of you suddenly let's off the gas and starts engine braking, then starts braking hard.

"Relying on the computer to make you think you are riding safe" is widely inaccurate.  You're using a tool to ride safer.  With regular CC, you'd close the gap with him before knowing anything was happening, and only have your attention securely grabbed once his brake lights come on.  With ACC, your bike would have immediately started lightly braking the instant he started slowing, grabbing your attention much earlier.  

Frankly, you SHOULD want other drivers to have ACC instead of CC.  Because the driver with ACC isn't going to rear end you, he literally can't, even if there's a medical emergency and he suddenly loses conciousness.  The driver with CC or just his right wrist/foot certainly can though.

I've been rear ended too, a few times.  It sucks.  I accept that many drivers and riders are stupid, or inattentive, or even drunk so I'm all about technology that helps protect me from them.

They guy behind you with ACC is definitely not going to rear end you.

Yep.  Sometimes a brand new bike will be quieter into first, but that goes away pretty quickly.  Every bike I've ever owned or ridden has been a little klunky into first at any rate. 

4 hours ago, OZVFR said:

There was a bloke on the 1050 Sprint group who said he never ever goes into neutral once he’s riding because he didn’t want to damage the gearbox. 

Wat?  

Man, people have the weirdest utterly unfounded beliefs.  I used to think the internet would fix that, as everyone has access to much better information, but nope.  

On 7/7/2023 at 12:30 PM, duckie said:

If I think someone behind me is using adaptive cruise control…..I start slowing down. 

My adaptive cruise control is me.

I want drivers to pay attention to their driving and not rely on a computer to do so.

Why slow down?

If I'm running adaptive cruise behind you and you slow down, I'll slow down too.... Exactly as I would have if I wasn't running adaptive cruise and was entirely on the ball.  What have you accomplished?  

Eh, you can say that about regular cruise control too, or a throttle lock. It's silly.  It's nice to be able to relax your hands, and unlike regular cruise control adaptive cruise is massively safer.  If I put on cruise control because my hand is numb (I have serious ongoing problems with this) and the guy in front of me suddenly brakes because he thinks I'm running adaptive cruise, *but I'm not*, now it's a frantic race back to the bars.  

Yeah, I want people to pay attention. I want to always pay attention.  But if you're riding for 500 miles today, for the third day, on a long stretch of open road you're not always going to be 100% focused.  Adaptive cruise makes the process much safer. 

11 hours ago, rlambke19 said:

I really like my 2021 GT. Not sure it would be worth trading in for the "+". Adaptive cruise is neat on a car, but not sure I need it on my bike. The new TFT screen would be nice, but to be honest I don't mind the "wonky" dash on my GT. But I like new things. 🙂 

Got to play with adaptive cruise on a KTM 1290 Super Adventure, and to be honest adaptive cruise is amazing.  Really great.  Would I trade in my 2019 for it?  No.  But adaptive cruise is awesome on a bike. 

5 hours ago, OZVFR said:

Most manufactures no longer use die release compounds, it is usually the smooth die surface that creates a shiny tyre surface and doesn't mean it will be slippery.

But good practice is to always scrub in your tyres gradually.

Which is often more about the rider than the tire; getting used to new handling characteristics.  No major tire manufacturers use release compounds anymore, and brand new tires grip just fine.  The whole thing is a hangover from days gone by.  

On 6/30/2023 at 5:08 PM, piotrek said:

Mounted a set of Dunlop Mutant tires to try on my trip to Florida next week. Favourable reviews and the price was okay. Will scrub them in a bit over the next few days and it's go time. 😎

Not gonna lie.  Despite being a huge Michelin Road fan, I'm going to run Mutants for my next set and I'm doing it entirely because they look awesome

5 hours ago, betoney said:

Did the base level Tracer come with the slip/assist clutch?  If not then now would be the perfect time to upgrade. 

https://www.partshark.com/product/53311/xsr900-slipper-clutch-for-fz-09

Like everything, the price has gone up about 40% since I bought mine back in '17.

Dunno, but I've got a 2019 GT, which definitely did come with the slipper clutch

Got the last clutch basket Partzilla had.  I've been waffling about fixing the gronk for some time, but kept putting it off... Then I noticed the "Quantity Remaining: 1" shortly after a conversation with some riding buddies about how crazy hard it is to get parts these days, as once things are out of stock they don't always return.  

So I guess it's about oil change time anyways, time to make the Skylift earn it's keep.

On 6/26/2023 at 6:03 AM, Suzukiguy said:

Installed the Seat Concepts kit on my 2020 Tracer 900GT. Only got in about 15 miles after the install, but my initial impression is that it is a vast improvement over the stock seat! Forward lean is all but gone and in the low position I can still flat-foot the bike. More extensive testing will be required this week!

I've got a Seat Concepts seat on my T7, and love it.  Nice to hear they've got a good Tracer seat too!

18 hours ago, TomTracer said:

I bought one of those adjustable Chinese gizmos. Low cost cast out of whatever- seems I got it for a lowered Wee Strom ADV. Never mounted it but doubted it would last - my skepticism. 1/4 - 1/2" side stand foot thickness would make a good difference in reducing lean angle. 

Think I'll take off my stock side stand to inspect for cracks and any place water might get inside. It's already gotten water inside tho if there is a gap. 

The stock stand has a drain hole on the bottom to allow water out, but that also obviously lets water in.  I just put the straw for a spray oil can up there and fog it from time to time now.  I'll take the odd oil drip from the bottom of the kickstand over another one breaking any day.

But as you mention there one of the sidestand feet you can bolt on definitely reduces the lean angle and takes a LOT of pressure off the stand, too.