SuperMax

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I can ship this to you by UPS for $15, tomorrow. Please let me know your shipping details by PM if interested.

Thanks!

up, all items still available

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The merchant will cover the warranty, that is for sure - and Amazon will help with it, if needed, 100%.

As for the price I paid, my loss is your gain, I guess...should I understand you are interested in the battery?

Battery was bought off Amazon some 3 weeks ago, but then I decided to go with a LiFePO4 one, as I had a deal on it - I have not touched it, it's prefilled, as sold by Yuasa/merchant. I paid around $250 (taxes included).

I can ship it to you by UPS for as low as $15, just let me know.

Hello,

After several upgrades/projects attempts, I do have for sale the below items. Prices do not include shipping (but I'm able to get some pretty competitive rates for UPS/USPS).

Payment by PayPal Friends&Family/Zelle has 0 fees, regular PayPal adds 3.5%

1. Brand new (orange) left/right panels (Tracer 900 GT 2020 model - PN B5C-2835U-00-P5/B5C-2835V-00-P5) - $100

2. Band new (sealed) Yuasa YTZ10S battery - $100

3. Front OEM fork assy (L+R) and springs for 2019 Yamaha Tracer 900, used for only 600 miles (like new) - $250

Yamaha OEM PNs: B5C-23103-00-00 + 2SC-23102-40-00 + 2PP-23141-00-00 + 4EB-23144-00-00 + 4EB-23145-01-00

4. Yamaha OEM tail light for FJ-09 and Tracer 900/GT, like new- $35

Yamaha OEM PN: 2PP-84700-00-00

5. Yamaha FJ-09/MT-09/XSR900/Tracer 900/GT sprocket panel cover, like new - $15

If any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me!

Thanks for the tips, appreciate it! I changed a pair of rotors before, so fully aware of the procedure Having a set of spare Ti bolts, too - just in case I will need to replace any.

Looking good!!

Already have the 320 mm Galfer rotors (plus a brand new pair of 310mm rotors) 11mm spacers and Vesrah sintered pads, so probably will go for the braided likes, too  An R6/R1 master cylinder will require some mirror placement modifications, and not to keen to go for these now

Thanks, Scott! I have already ordered the 80mm bolts.

Have you replaced the master cylinder and lines, too? I think pads and master cylinder are the most effective upgrades you can make in terms of improving the braking efficiency

Thanks @texscottyd! But it seems quite logic that if the standard caliper bolts are 70mm and if going for a 11mm spacer, the new bolts should be 80mm, rather than 90mm.

I measured the caliper mount arm and it seems a 90mm bolt will be too long for it to be fully threaded inside

PS: never bought anything from Pro-Bolt as their bolts seem overpriced I have had several Titanium bolts sourced from anywhere in Europe to China and none have failed on me. Currently rocking some Fanya Ti bolts that have served me very well for about 1 year on the current Tracer.

Thank you @texscottyd! i also see 90mm caliper bolts mentioned to be used with the 320mm rotors and 11mm spacers. As the stock bolts are 70mm, just wondering why not using 80mm caliper bolts? Just want to make sure the caliper bolts are fitting.

Absolutely sure they are 310mm! All R1' from 2007 to 2014 came with 310mm discs. It's only the R1's from 2004-2006 amd 2015+ came with 320mm.

Funny thing is that some rotor manufacturers specify the 320mm rotors for all R1 generations. The only downside would be having the pads not touching the 310mm rotors for about 5mm on the outer edge of it. 

PS: curious if the 320mm rotors made it a pain removing/installing the calipers, as the distance to the rim would be leaving very littile room for it

Has anyone installed 310mm rotors so far, or only 320mm ones?

Asking as I do have a pair of 310mm YZF-R1 rotors (that were used in the 2007-2014 models), but since 2015 the R1 has 320mm ones. My concern is that I have the 11mm spacers and the 10mm difference will actually require different spacers and probably M10x1.25x80mm bolts, instead of the M10x1.25x90mm bolts used with the 11mm spacers and 320mm rotors.

5 hours ago, YamahaChris said:

Still have the oem exhaust? I just picked up a lightly used 2017 FJ09 (1700 miles) and 1 of the previous owners took something out from inside the exhaust/box. Can see cuts deep inside when looking inside the muffler. Afraid of running the bike long like this I am looking for a full oem exhaust to replace on it. 

Sorry, but I sold it some time ago.

18 minutes ago, PhotoAl said:

Hummm, make a long ramp and get your wife to video you riding the bike up the ramp 🙂     That is 99% chance of failure, if no video is taken then 100% probability of failure.  

 

Here's that 1% guy that actually made it succesfully (flip flops are a bonus)

U-Haul (or any other truck rental company) won't allow you to transport your bike inside the truck (except, maybe, you will empty the tank and disconnect/remove the battery - which is something I want to avoid). Most probably my option will be to get get 1-2 handymen in the complex I live to help push the bike into the truck and that's it

Being a (very) long trip of about 1400 miles, I would still like to play safe and have the bike secured with a wheel chock. Reason for going for the wood pallets is that I don't know where exactly the anchor points would be located in the truck, so I would rather have the flexibility to choose where to place the straps on the pallets.

So far, it looks like getting the motorcycle into the truck remains the biggest challenge

22 hours ago, Heli ATP said:

Have you thought about asking the wife to pull a trailer behind the SUV while you ride your bike? 😁

Here is another option...  Uhaul

Not an option, unfortunately, as I have a lot of stuff to take with me, and we wouldn't be able to tow all of that with my SUV - not to mention that her driving 1400 miles will be too much for her, honestly.

As I will be soon moving from Virginia to Texas, I am looking for a cost efficient and secure way of transporting my motorcycle to the destination (some ~1400 miles distance). I will also have to take care of some small pieces of furniture, clothes and other things that I will be taking with me.

The solution I am leaning towards is renting a U-Haul/Penske 15' truck, that I should load my motorcycle into (besides my all other stuff) and attach a trailer to it that should have my SUV on it, as that one can't be towed

Thinking of having a wood pallet with a top deck (like the one in the pic attached), that I can mount a wheel chock on to secure the front wheel and then tie down the bike with straps, and having my bike loaded into the truck using the ramp provided with the truck (I know at least U-Haul does provide one with their 15' trucks).

My question is if anyone has used the same method as the one above and if any floor anchors available in the U-Haul/Penske trucks to secure the wood pallet that I will use my own anchors to be mounted onto it to secure the straps?

Also, any recommendations/suggestions on how to safely load the bike intro the truck using the ramp, considering it's only going to be me and my wife to help me with this job.

I am definitely considering using my current garage inclined ramp to compensate for the inclined ramp I will be using, but I am not yet convinced if using my own muscles to pull the motorcycle up the ramp, while my wife helping me pushing it, will do - as anyhow, the ramp's width won't allow me to walk next to the bike while loading it.

I used silicone for the entire length of it and it worked just fine for the last months. I would avoid superglue, as if the rubber will eventually wear out (or tear), it would be pretty challenging to get it off and replace it

I have the OEM rear rack and the 50L top case, that definitely fits two full size (Medium) Shark Spartan 1.2 Carbon helmets. I wouldn't see any reason it wouldn't fit even a (single) XL size full face helmet.

Quality is good and lines of the top case fit the angular design of the 2019/2020 Tracer nicely. I bought the top case re-keyable lock (PN: 2PP-F81C0-V0-00) and was able to key it to ignition in about 25mins, so not that complicated.

3 minutes ago, Danielblue said:

Heated seat has me sitting a bit higher on the bike than the stock seat.   Not a huge difference, but the low position of the adjustment now feels about equal to where the high position was before going to the heated comfort seat

I thought I am the only one experiencing this with the heated seat Moreover, I have observed that on the low setting, the front of the seat is not that firmly locked in place, there is definitely a play to the front. Has been therefore forced to set it to the high position (but no major difference to the low one in terms of overall height)

Actually, the heated seat push-style button wouldn't take up more space on the handlebars, as it fits into the secondary lighter/USB location (that is currently covered with a dummy rubber cap), but it would indeed have been ideal to be controlled from the display settings, as the heated grips. My main problem with it is that the button is not easily accessible when seated the bike (behind the dash), plus the red light (which is the Max heat setting) is hardly distinguishable from the orange light (corresponding to the Off setting) in direct sunlight.

I was able to get out for a ride today and test the heated seat - it actually starts heating up after 2-3 mins, reaching its maximum temp (on the maximum - red - setting) in about 6mins.

Sorry, I meant the high setting (not medium) - that is red. So it seems 1-2 minutes should be enough for it to heat up so you can feel that. I will try it again today...I wish the heated seat would have a setting in the menu, just like the heated grips do, that you can set the heat level. The led color coding of the current control button is difficult to be seen when seated, as it's partially obstructed by the dash and the (color) light is pretty weak.

Just installed the Yamaha comfort heated seat yesterday, but didn't had the chance to take the Tracer out and test it, as it's been raining for the entire day, but as I have set the heat level on medium, it didn't seem to heat up during the 4 minutes as I left the engine idling.

How long does this comfort seat usually take for you to heat up?