vespadaddy

Neat idea. It was difficult for me to see the dyno numbers at the end. What was the net change in HP and torque?

Yes, that's the link he posted, but if you scroll up a few posts and hit the link I posted from Kouba, you'll get free shipping. I just ordered a set yesterday.

Here you go: http://www.koubalink.com/mirror.html If you order directly from Koubalink, shipping is free.

If you replace your OEM drain plug with a plug that uses a different sealing device (o-ring vs crush washer), I hope you have the background fastener knowledge to ensure that this new plug won't be more likely to back out from vibration and simultaneously oil your rear tire AND cook your motor. Personally, I do not, so I would be reluctant to install such a different fastener than OEM, especially on such a crucial, oil sealing application. Maybe a machinist will weigh in? Personally, I like to safety wire my oil drain plugs. It's probably overkill for a streetbike, but it is easy to do, and there must be SOME reason that roadracing clubs require it...

Just a quick FYI. All high pressure lines these days have braiding material built in-it just may not be metal. Nylon typically isn't used in high temp applications, but other stronger materials can & are used. Otherwise the lines will balloon a bit, which is not ideal. The last time this was ever an issue was in the 1960's. The above statement doesn't square with my personal experience. I bought a new R6 in 2003, and by 2006, the brake performance had deteriorated noticeably. This bike never saw the track. New braided steel lines had the bike stopping better than new.