NormR

8 hours ago, knyte said:

I did.  It's just aluminum, so it ground off quickly and easily.  In so doing, the lowest point is no longer this 'guard', but the catalytic converter.  I'd much rather a scratch on something I can't see over a cracked pan in the middle of nowhere!!  Just ask @Clegg78...

I also bought my FJ without a test ride...it was too late in the season (snow outside) but my g/f pointed it out in the showroom, and it had a 'big bike' presence which at first was a bit intimidating, but felt pretty good when I sat on it.  You're right, it's a HUGE leap of faith...turned out to be a winner when spring rolled around and we went riding.  No regrets!

I also picked up my GT as it started snowing and never got to test ride it either. I was looking at getting a Speed Triple and somehow thought it was a better deal to get Yamaha as they never let me down and still have 2 already in my garage. 

I think I might have that tag as well

3 hours ago, kilo3 said:

NA doesn't get the red key, only two blacks.

I was hoping that was the case 😅 

How many keys did you get with your new bike? I bought mine used with 800kms and I got two keys. I read somewhere here that there was a master key?? No idea what he was referring to so I came here to ask

5 hours ago, petshark said:

I did this today and it made no difference.

I did another deep clean of the calipers and pistons today. I did not polish them because I have never done that before and don't have anything to polish with. I cleaned them one by one with soapy water and a toothbrush.

I've made some video's to demonstrate the retraction:

It looks normal to me.

I tried this and it did not make a difference

I did a search on how to polish and found that I could use toothpaste. This is the result:

It feels smooth to the touch and I have special brake lube that I reapplied after.

I checked and it does.

I tried this and let some fluid out of the MC banjo bolt and it did not relieve pressure

More details and result

I think I tried every suggestion here. Once the pistons were clean I spent a lot of time moving them back and forth until I was satisfied that they all moved out at the same time so none were restricted in any way.

The spin test showed a small improvement so I went for a 10 minute ride.

I still feel dragging but what's more upsetting is that I now also feel something weird through the footpegs. Like small shocks or hickups. At first I thought it was the engine misfiring but at standstill the engine sounds normal for a 3 cylinder I think, also when revving up. It's my first triple so I'm not sure.

I kept riding because I was doubting if what I was feeling is because I was so focused on any sensation.  So I tried a little more speed and pulled the clutch and just let it roll a couple of times. The bike rolled quite far but I still felt like the brakes were dragging a little. But definitely better, before the brakes really slowed the bike down quickly. Again not sure if it is back to normal or not.

Something is still off, and I did not dare ride further.

Back home I checked the heat on the rotors. One side was hot and the other was almost cooled down, that was at least a clue. I did this before the cleaning and the heat was exactly the same then. I did do a more thorough job on the one that was cooler (with the moving of the pistons etc) so I went to work on the other one again and made it perfect.

I have not gone for another test ride but the wheel spin test yields the same result as before so I don't think it helped.

The small "shocks or hiccups" your feeling might be your chain. Check if its at the proper tension. I had a similar vibration coming thru my pegs on my FZ1 and discovered my chain was super tight. Good luck

IMO there's no reason you should worry about the little fluid left in the calipers after bleeding your brakes with new fluid. The way I do it is siphon most of the fluid out of the MC (not all or you will get air in the system) and refill the MC. I usually start bleeding the calipers and will refill the MC at least 4-5 times for each caliper. After I'm done I don't fret too much about any residue. Only time I actually disassembled the calipers is to do a complete rebuild with seals etc..

Sounds like a bearing issue but seems strange it would go on 2019 bike. How much mileage do you have on the bike?

If you don't mind saying, what price did you get quoted for the job ?

In Quebec, Tar Snakes are a common thing. Some of my favorite roads are covered with them and on a hot day have to be avoided. I've seen riders overshoot the corner just trying to avoid them and were lucky no truck was in the opposite lane. Makes me suspicious why they use this method in some very popular biker areas? Slows down the riding without a Police presence?

3 hours ago, peteinpa said:

I'd say at 6k miles the rear sprocket is deffinately fine. Front is suspect.

Best test of sprockets is wrap the new chain around them and try to pull chain off. If you can see 1/4 of a tooth under the chain get a new sprocket.

I just found a new Sunstar front sprocket on Ebay for $13 delivered. It was so cheap because the packaging was damaged.

If I'm correct that procedure is used to test the condition of the chain. 

20 minutes ago, peteinpa said:

I've got to call foul on this. The front always wears out way before the rear. The front turns 3 to four times faster than the rear and puts all that torque down with 8 teeth at once.

On my CBR1100XX I'd go two chains and 2 front sprockets before changing the rear sprocket.

I’ve always swapped out both sprockets when replacing the chain. IMO it always made sense to spend the extra $$ to insure the sprockets were right even if they looked ok. A worn sprocket will eat up a new chain pretty quick 

On 1/17/2021 at 7:54 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

I installed these a couple of years ago cheap on fleabay

Does anybody here have these on their 2019 GT? Not sure if they fit? 

3 hours ago, betoney said:

Great knowledgeable answer, thanks for sharing. 👍

thanks for the answers👍

Do dealers use the OBD2 plug on our bikes to see if the throttle bodies need to be adjusted? 

I heard Triumph dealers use a special diagnostic tool that plugs in the obd plug and reads the TB’s to see if they need adjustment.

If there is someway I can avoid tearing into the bike only to discover the throttle bodies are within specs would be fantastic.

On 12/23/2020 at 12:18 PM, thewrenchbender said:

Smoke-tested the Cyclops provided relay and completed splicing in the T700 rear adaptor cables (eliminated the bullet connectors) & installing the rear blinkers. 

Still need to posi tap in the brake signal.

Have the front cheek panels split but have gotten temporarily interrupted to go grocery shopping....

Very happy with mine. Tapped the brake light and now have the turn signals light up RED under braking. Front running lights are decent as well👍🏻

thanks a bunch to everyone that commented! saved me a lot of guessing and time🙃

I picked up one and like opinions on the best “location” to install the mounting bracket under the bag?? Don’t want to drill holes and find out after that it’s too forward or back. Tried sitting the bag over the gas cap but it’s not an exact science 🤷🏻‍♂️ I’m cheating here and want to learn from other people’s success or mistakes

if you post pics or give me measurements of the underside of the bag and a comment of how your happy or unhappy with the install of the bracket I’d very much appreciate it😁

cheers

I've been servicing my own bikes for years but this bike has a 4 year extended warranty that I don't want some dealer or Yamaha say is void because I didn't follow a manufacturers required service. Only thing I see myself not doing is synching the throttle bodies because I don't own the tool. I bought my 2019 GT with 800kms on it and its still got the original oil in it. I figure the first service can be done at the dealer to support the warranty and I'll see about the rest afterwards.

What can I expect to pay for the first 1000k service at the dealer? 

On 11/21/2020 at 7:07 AM, mellow said:

Cut it in half and it will work if you want the front on high or low.

Does the seat move around more without the ”stoppers” in place? Looks like an easy fix🍺