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sirepair

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Posts posted by sirepair

  1. 52 minutes ago, keithu said:

    I assume the Heattroller is using PWM to control output, but not sure.

    Correct, Pulse Width Modulator for those that don't know. Basically a circuit that cycles on and off for a set time. Adjusting changes ratio of on time to off time.

    I keep my Heat-troller clipped to left side of jacket. Only one connection to bike and LEDs are out of sight. Easily adjusted while on the fly.

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  2. A 15 amp circuit will work for running both gloves and a liner. Adapters are available.

    You will want some type of controller to vary the heat output or you will find yourself constantly turning it on and off.

    Take a look at Warm & safe heated gear. I recommend their heated liner, gloves and dual "Heat-troller".  

    The dual controller gives you 2 circuits; one for jacket liner, one for your gloves. Your hands need more heat than your torso, so if you have both items on a single controller it will be nearly impossible to find a comfortable setting.

    I've used their gear for over 10 years. Great quality and they are very good about exchanging items to make sure you get the correct size. 

    Check them out at: www.warmnsafe.com

     

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  3. I assume you have already upgraded your seat. I would rather have my left testicle off with with a rusty coping saw than spend an 18 hour day riding on the stock saddle!

    I think the Fudge could make a decent LD bike with the right upgrades. Biggest concern I think is rear tire life. I only got 7500 miles or so out of the first rear tire.

    Will be following your build...

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  4. I rode the DCT version for about an hour earlier this year.  I rode the previous version for a long weekend in Canada a couple years back and I've also ridden the VFR1200X w DCT, so I had something to compare with.

    The "ST1800" is just as stated above: very refined, nicely packaged and lacking character.  Yep, a 2 wheeled Accord.

    The DCT has been improved, especially the SPORT mode. It seemed to read my mind when rolling off the throttle approaching a turn, it would drop a gear just as I would have. Upshifts were quick and smooth. Engine might as well be an electric motor, though it does have a decent growl to it.

    The suspension does a good job at dealing with the weight of the bike. Brakes are a substantial improvement over the previous gen, which I thought felt wooden.

    Smaller tank and less storage were hard to understand. Touring bike need a touring tank! I realize these were sacrifices made for weight reduction.

    But even with all the changes, it still "feels" like a Gold Wing (good, bad or indifferent).

    Personally I enjoy my ST1100 more and could purchase 10 nice used STs for the price of one 'Wing. If $$ was no object I might buy one, but would probably look at a KTM Super Duke (how much "personality" can 1 bike have?) or BMW K1600.

     

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  5. I have been very happy with how well this has worked out. Having a compressor and plug kit paid off a couple months ago when I had a puncture about 15 miles from home.

    Being able to remove the rear wheel without messing with anything other than popping the lid and swinging it out of the way has proven handy too! 

    Only change I've made since install was to add a couple small zip ties to keep the hinge from coming apart when open.

    I'm looking for a small lock that won't rattle around to put on it, but that hasn't been a great concern.

  6. I'm also an IB SS1K Cert holder and congratulate you for a BBG on an FJ09.

    I rode my ST1100 for my ride, and would likely use it for the BBG.  I'm not as comfortable on my FJ as my ST.

    Again, congrats!

    BTW, did you hear that a woman won this year's Iron Butt Rally? Wendy Crockett is the first woman to win. She rode nearly 13,000 miles in 11 days!

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  7. 5 hours ago, koth442 said:

    I tried using the harbor freight with Mojo-Lever and Mojo-blocks. Absolutely hated it. Rim kept spinning or lifting.

    A rachet strap wrapped around one arm of the mounter and one or two wheel spokes keeps the wheel in place and sanity in check!

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  8. I've replaced batteries in both my ST1100 and FJ09 with Shorai Lithium Iron batteries. As stated, they are crazy light! One in the 1100 will be 3 years old in the fall, 2 years in the FJ.  

    Only "issue" I've experienced is starting in cold weather. The LiFe batteries need to warm up a bit, so it is best to turn main switch on, so lights come on, and let it set for a few seconds before trying to start.

    I don't use battery tenders. During off season I make a point to start bikes at least once every two weeks and let them run until fans kick on. Keeps fresh fuel in systems and batteries charged.  If bike won't turn over, battery will likely need replaced anyway.

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  9. You are correct, ground through the mount.  You can add a short piece of wire, with the proper connector, and connect the OEM ground to a mounting point on the horn. 

    Also, check amps needed for new horn.  Many aftermarket horns draw much more than stock, so stock fuse may blow upon use.

    I use the factory wiring to trigger a relay, with separate power/fuse to the replacement horn.

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  10. Wife and I have hosted the (Honda) ST Owners OH-STOC event out of Lake Hope State Park, west of Athens, for the last 8 years.  50+ riders attended this year.

    Sooo many outstanding roads in the area!  We use "Drop and sweep" method for larger group rides, and smaller groups do what they want.

    MSTA does their "Mail Pouch Fly-by" out of Marietta too.  

    If you get a chance to ride this area, do it! You will not be disappointed!  

    And if you need info on some routes or someone to lead you around, let me know!

    20190607_081930.jpg

    20190607_121831.jpg

    P1000746Cropped.jpg

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  11. If you old plugs have the threaded caps on them but new plugs don't, you will want to transfer them to the new plugs for proper electric connection.

    I have a little parts bin drawer full of them!

    As stated above, a length of small dia. rubber hose can be used to extract or install the plugs. Magnet on a stick or claw grabber pickup tool do the trick too.

    ALWAYS check that the plugs are properly gapped before installing.

  12. 58 minutes ago, bugie said:

    Any idea why the worm unplugged itself? Have used them a couple of times and they always lasted a few 1000k's until the next tyre change? Did you not push it in far enough, or perhaps not leave enough outside the tyre to form a bump outside the tyre?

    I've successfully plugged several tires, both mc and auto, and never had this happen.  My guess would be that the hole was too big. Even with two in it I was losing air at a fairly steady rate.  Had I had much farther to go I would have had to stop and air it up again.

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