sirepair

RTW = Ride To Work.  

I hit a deer on my RTW a few weeks back. Super fortunate to have had minimal damage to bike and I didn't go down!

Another RTW, without forest rat intervention...

^Me too!

I found and scanned the install instructions, PM me an email address and I'll send to you.  Can't attach a PDF to PMs or other posts.

I *think* I have a copy of the install destrucions.  Will check tonight when I get home.  Worst case, I can rempve and measure bolts.

Uneventful, though foggy RTW, and a lovely, but only slightly longer return. 

Now, I gotta mow....

Mine sucked as I caged it.  

I have used Spencer for one of my ST1100 seats. Great improvement for the $ over stock, but not an Russell Day Long, Rick Meyer or Terry Adcox difference.

Beauty of Spencer's seat is it looks stock, but rides so much better.

Only your butts can decide what will work best for you.

If I were you and got an FJ09, I would add a top box instead of the back rest, and send both front and rear seats to Terry Adcox. These mods would likely cost a bit less than the Corbin you purchased.

I'm guessing the passenger ergos are similar, but is your wife OK with the FJ's pass. peg location?  My wife doesn't like the pegs, so we take my ST1100 for 2-up jaunts.  Yamaha seems to have addressed this as the pass pegs on the Tracer have been relocated.

Check out this thread, and I believe there are several others.

I finished the fix-up of deer damaged parts.  Replaced the front fender (thanks builderbob!), even added some stripes to it.  The right fairing was cracked where the turn signal mounts, and the "pin" that goes in to the grommet was snapped off.  Super glue and baking soda was used to repair the cracks/breaks after a bit of dremel work to rough up the back side surfaces.  If you haven't used this for ABS plastic repair, try it!

Checked the front rim, not bent, but I did find some deer fur wedged in the tire bead!  Checked alignment of front axle/forks/handlebars; all OK.

I STILL can't believe how fortunate I was! 

I also finished re-keying my top box and saddlebags to match the ignition, so now need only 1 key instead of 3.  It's very simple to do if you have an inventory of the "wafers".  Takes just a few minutes.

Hopefully I'll be able to get a ride in soon!

I've been on 215 several times on my ST1100, would LOVE to take the FJ there!!

Colorrite.com is a great source for OEM matched paint. You can even get their paint in rattle cans.  IDK if they ship down-under, or if there is an Aus company that does the same thing.

27 minutes ago, nicksta43 said:

@sirepair So was the 3M material you used specifically for "low surface energy" use?

Have you had any issues with it in use?

Yes, 3M Adhesion Promoter:

www.amazon.com/3M-Adhesion-Promoter-Sponge-Applicators/dp/B07MVK1PG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?adgrpid=56306676376&hvadid=274732303081&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9015892&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7037397969243445942&hvtargid=kwd-301511304159&keywords=3m+adhesion+promoter&qid=1556112279&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

To date I have not had any issues with the vinyl, but I went in to the mod with low expectations!  I am careful not to blast it with the hose and wash gently the 2 or 3 times a year that I wash it. I would rather ride than wash!  And I have a whole roll of vinyl if it blows off!

I applied some vinyl to the noted dished area of my saddlebags. Came out OK. 

Keep in mind that the surface of these are a "low surface energy" material. Most adhesives don't stick to them.  I purchased some 3M wipes to enhance the adhesion.

Thanks for the well-wishes!

I've been scouring the interwebs looking for the HMAFRPTs (Handlebar Mounted Anti Forest Rat Photon Torpedos) but I think SpaceX is currently out of stock!

At least @BuilderBob has hooked me up with a fender!

10 mm sounds right.  Now, don't drop that socket into the black hole!

Cheap socket from Harbor Freight ground down to size to remove/tighten nut. Take apart and place a "star" type lockwasher on the bottom of the stem, and a dab of locktight on the bolt.

Well, started my day by clipping a deer about 3/4 of a mile from my house on my way to work.  I looked down at the bars to turn on my fog lights and when I looked up, all I saw was a brown flash from the left.  Don't think I even grabbed the brakes (I usually cover the front lever with 2 fingers). I think I just got her hind quarters.

I didn't go down, just rolled down the road a couple hundred yards and stopped at a drive.  Got off and gave bike a quick visual, noted a nasty crack in the front fender, but everything else seemed ok.

Rode back to the house, snapped a couple pics.  Took off my gear and, after informing the wife, jumped in the car to go to work.

Will give "Thorn" a good exam when I get home tonight, but everything felt OK on the short ride home.

Damn deer....

Years ago, long before O-ring chains were developed, my father (an Enduro rider) came up with a concoction that he used to treat his chains.  It consisted of gear oil, STP Oil treatment, powdered graphite and paraffin wax, all mixed together in an old electric roaster.  He would remove and clean his chain, then cook it at a low temp overnight.   He then brushed off the excess while still warm.

He rarely had a chain fail, a common issue back in the '70s.

I won't be going to that extreme, but I won't be buying chain lube any more either.   

Another "Destination"... the Moonshine Store, Moonshine, IL.  No moonshine there to drink, but you can get awesome "Moonburgers" there! 

I have installed a Cyclops TPMS unit and use metal "T" valves, which allow the external sensors to remain installed and still gives access to adjust pressures when needed.

Cyclops TPMS: https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/Motorcycle-Tire-Pressure-Monitoring-System_p_171.html

Hawkshead "T" valves: www.tpms.ca/t-valve%20tire%20valve%20for%20tires,%20tire%20pressure%20monitoring%20systems,%20tpms.html

Sometimes, no matter our intentions or efforts, things just don't work out!

I'm impressed that you tried this, and that you shared.  I have dabbled in upholstery myself and know how challenging it is.   

I lucked out and bought a slightly used Russell Day Long that is working pretty well for me. Not perfect, but so much better than stock.

Here's a few more pics:

9 hours ago, dingophil said:

Great work on the fabrication! So you just lift the back flap to open the underside storage?

The hinge is on the left side. Release the clasp and the fender/lid swings left. I'll add a few more pictures to clarify.