TomTracer

3 minutes ago, Rdecae81 said:

interesting, many of you have noted the front speed sensor is "tricky" 
On my GT it only goes in one way, there is only one screw, and there is a metal bracket that lines it all up.  I am wondering if I am missing what is tricky and will find that when I replace the speed sensor it will continue to error because "I do not know what I do not know"

Any details on what is tricky about installing the speed sensor?

The first time I rehung the caliper after a tire change on my '20 900gt I too thought there was only 1 way to mount the abs sensor so I threw it on and rode. The abs light flickered and cruise didnt work. When back home it was obvious the sensor could be closer to the abs ring on the wheel by flipping the holder. Did that and everything was good.

5 hours ago, Warchild said:

These are on both the MT-10 and the Tracer, it has been a superb unit, never a leak, it just works well.

Is that velcro mounted?

Snark not appreciated! Lots of people do lots of things to bikes that can allow air to get into the system inadvertently. I'll ask anytime I like and no one needs your permission or approval.

What bike?

I too dont like throwing parts at a problem hoping the problem goes away. My posting the 2020 thread was reference info that might ring a bell for someone. A dealer with seasoned techs and fault codes should be able to diagnose the issue quickly I would think. 

In May, 2020 Dirty Randy posted a similar issue to this forum as the OP here. Several posters to the OP chimed in for Randy. He replaced the front abs sensor making sure to mount it properly. A couple of test rides and clearing codes, along with disconnection the battery all worked to solve the issue. Hope this helps. 

My F800GT was awful. Vibrated so much the headlight bulb shog craps. What a pita to replace. My dealer got me $500 less than purchase. 

Smokies are great. Enjoy your bike the way you like! Be safe.

1 hour ago, betoney said:

I am assuming you removed both front and rear wheel sensor prior to removing the wheels. Make sure they are fully seated flat and not cocked a few millimeters. 
 

It might be a good idea to fully remove them, it just takes a second and then clean and inspect them for damage before re-seating them. 

Also theres a spacer on that sensor thats easy to put back on in the wrong position. Only 2 ways to mount it. Check your svc manual or look at a parts fiche online.

A fruend sold me his Russell Day Long. It was.much better but still not for my arse. I suggested on a forum members who wanted to try something different could trade for a trial. Honor system. Of course naysayers said what a dumb idea. Well, screw 'em, it worked and nobody got screwed. Naysayers are big pita's!

I sent my Corbin to Omaha and the guy bought it for a good price. A coupe others did similarly. CBailey was starting to make seats. They emailed me wanting my Russell to dissect in exchange for a custom made Bailey. They sent a form for ht/wt and instructions for photos. They paid shipping for the Russell and in 3 days I had my new seat. It was not quite right, we talked, they made another front and i kept the pillion. Overnight I had the new seat. That Bailey was super for about 160000 mi on my BMW. Didn't cost me a dime. Bailey quit the seat business. 

FYI

ABSOLUTELY worst seat I ever had was Corbin in late 90's. Zero help from Corbin.

Awesome and CONGRATULATIONS! Beautiful We live in beautiful country for sure.

Riders on this forum have years of experience on all makes of bikes and millions of miles on/off road. The posit that engine braking will destroy an engine is yours. I bet a huge majority of riders engine brake every ride. A guy on a bmw forum years ago subscribed to your posit, calling everyone who used EB stupid. Insulting! Like anything else we do to scrub off speed in twisties it's part of our tool box and makes us safer IMO. 

I bought a copy in a ring binder off the web. For me if I'm not sure what I'm doing it's best to copy appropiate pages along with torque values and file along with my mntc record of what I did. Muvh better for me than flipping thru pgs on an Ipad or lap top. FWIW.

1 hour ago, arthur said:

Oh gosh, I feel so stupid. The trouble is I am a know it all. And I knew that the seat was in it's lowest position.

You know how this ends.  After lowering the seat I can get the balls of my feet on the ground and am no longer tiptoeing. Thank you for all who have replied to this thread.

You do know most of us have that moment in some manner or other! Not to worry, it's ok.

I have strapped the brake or foot lever (compressed) tightly overnight on a couple of bikes. Next morning nice and firm.

16 minutes ago, priebe said:

Problem: Spongy and unpredictable front brake lever. Can pull the lever quickly (emergency braking) and get almost instant pressure (feel) without much lever movement. Pull lightly (trail braking or slow-stop braking) and lever can almost touch the handgrip before gaining enough pressure.

Background: I installed the Siegler braided brake line kit on my 2019 900 GT along with EBC-HH pads. I did the initial flush using Brembo DOT 4 fluid (ordered from Amazon). I connected a vacuum pump to the furthest caliper from the master and pulled a ton of fluid until I had built enough feel in the lever to take a ride. Found a gravel parking lot and did several runs to activate the ABS pump. Came home and pulled more fluid through the system. Still not happy with the lever feel. I disconnected the calipers, pushed the pistons back and elevated them above the master cylinder overnight hoping to get any last air from the system. This made no improvement. Thought it was possibly bad brake fluid, so I pulled almost a whole quart of fresh Valvoline fluid through the system. Still have the same issue. Ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit from the local Yamaha dealer, they ordered me an All Balls Racing rebuild kit. Turned out they ordered a kit for the regular Tracer 900, not the GT. Didn’t know there was a difference. Called the dealer and the 900 GT kit is unobtanium. I was able to use a few pieces from the 900 kit (one seal, spring, retaining clips) but it did not have the piston with new seal installed. I guess they press fit the piston together with that seal in place? I’m in a real pickle here and don’t know if a dealer will help other than to activate the ABS using their computer and do yet another flush. At this point I’ve pulled almost two full quarts of fluid through this bike. Do you think there is still air in the ABS pump?

Sounds like it to me. You've run much more fluid thru the system than it should take. Sure your method is correct?

25 minutes ago, duckie said:

Just learn the gas consumption characteristics of the motorcycle and dont make mountains out of molehills.

I agree. Obsessing over something you cant change significantly serves little purpose. But hey thats just us huh!

If what your calc shows is consistent then go with it as normal. 170 or so miles is when I look for gas and seems typical from others here. I did eke out about 225 mi 2 yrs ago but you dont want to try that unless you have no choice. There was 1 pump in podunk with the next town 35 mi away. We were in E CO trying to make time into a strong head wind.

6 hours ago, bwringer said:

I don't think there's an aftermarket side stand that's stronger, if that's what you're asking.

You might try to strengthen it with an internal rod as described above, or fabricate a stronger solid version (and you'll also need a stronger spring), but you also need to consider the strength of the bracket it's bolted to, and the area of the frame that is bolted to as well. 

There are assorted sketchy Chinese adjustable aluminum side stands that might fit, intended mostly for lowered bikes. I would be very hesitant to trust any of these, and they certainly don't seem to be stronger than stock.

I'd just order up a new OEM side stand, and strongly consider replacing the bracket and pivot bolt as well.

As mentioned above, the metal foot on the side stand is a good idea, but for other reasons. It does not solve the original problem, other than it adds just a bit of length.

In all, I'd say you had best give up on the "cowboy" mounting technique. This places tremendous strain on the parts involved, and is well over the design limit on lots of motorcycles. Quite a few people have seriously damaged motorcycles of many makes and models like this, and sometimes they've seriously damaged the frame itself.

I bought one of those adjustable Chinese gizmos. Low cost cast out of whatever- seems I got it for a lowered Wee Strom ADV. Never mounted it but doubted it would last - my skepticism. 1/4 - 1/2" side stand foot thickness would make a good difference in reducing lean angle. 

Think I'll take off my stock side stand to inspect for cracks and any place water might get inside. It's already gotten water inside tho if there is a gap. 

The problem for mfgrs is what shape ass is the norm? My fat rear takes a different shape than a 150# guy like I used to be. A good riding bud has never changed the stock seat on any bike over his 70 years. My $.02.

I have not done what you want to do but maybe looking at a parts fiche for that cluster will give you some idea if possible? Worth a look anyway maybe. Good luck.

I knew several yrs ago I needed to get something lighter than my R1100RT as moving it around the garage became a chore. My WeeStrom and KLR were still good. I got an F800GT like you but it was way too buzzy. Then I decided my house was getting to be more than I wanted to take care of so I sold it and moved to an apartment which neant too many bikes for room I had. My son lives 1000 mi away and an apartment would be easier to walk away from than a house should I have health issues which I know will come sooner or later. So I bought my 2030 tracer 900gt. I thought about the alternatives you mentioned but they just arent me and cost way to much vs worth IMO. I still ride trying to get 2000-3000 mi trips in 2-4x each yr and shorter trips of 2-3 days several times ea yr. 

I gad a 2008 Miata mx5 PRHT, which was a blast, more so than a Vet of yrs ago. Wish I still had it.

We all have to face what age brings us. It comes sooner or later and we have little to no choice. But it comes. I think of all the great rides over my now 66 yrs of riding and some great memories and all the great stories, rally pins, small towns, camping etc. I know you do too Al. Those won't be lost because we decide its time to back off. Most of my friends and family are envious about what I've done riding. I wouldn't change it.

Enjoy this next phase of your life. It will have different adventures even if not what motorcycling gave you!!

My Corbin was the worst thing imaginable. Horrible torture device.

I put one on my 2013 Wee Strom but sold the bike before riding it much. You use your pan and the kit includes new foam and cover. The new foam made the seat a little taller and the nose was a little wider, as SC stated on it's web site at the time. The cover was made of material that reduced the forward slide. I was going to shave the foam but my bike buyer was very eager so I let it go. Can't say how I would rate it. SC had good ratings thohgh.