OZVFR

We get bent over when we buy tyres here. 

Cost me AU$560 for a set of 01 SE’s. The old Rosso III’s weren’t much better and only lasted me 10 months. 

That’s the biggest screen I’ve ever seen. 

The noise and turbulence behind it must be dreadful. 

The bigger diameter gives higher leverage which gives higher stopping power for less effort. 
My 15 also has slight pulsation at low speed, but my rotors are straight. 

4 hours ago, ItsTracerTime said:

Aside from that, every once in a while I get a very noticeable KNOCK feeling in the foot pegs, typically the right peg. No idea what it is but it wouldn't surprise me if I'm kicking a rock or something up.

It could also be your centre stand bouncing on the spring over bumps and hitting the stop on the way back up which is on the right side.

21 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

On my Fastest Red 1 15 I installed 2014 R1 320 rotors (could have chose the red carriers but chickened out and got the black), and the 2014 R1 Brembo radial front master cylinder.  The R6 master was also an option, maybe a better one, I'm not sure.  I then sourced caliper spacers and longer bolts, a brake fluid reservoir, hose and hose clamps, a master cylinder bar clamp with integral mirror boss,  and fabricated a reservoir bracket that went under the mirror stem.

Plenty of options if you search old boy.

Check photos in my prior postings.  HH+ pads too taste as OEM are only GG.

Can you say 2 finger stoppies?

Thanks mate. 
EBC HH pads have been on every bike I’ve owned. Tried a few others when on special, but always come back as none have ever been as good. 

Does anyone now which year R1 disk rotors fit the offset and bolt pattern of the Tracer?

All good now, stocked up on popcorn so please go on 😁

I for one think that the more safety features the better, I also think that a bike with all the bells and whistles will be a safer bike than one without regardless of your riding skills. 

Using an argument about an uncle who rode around WooWoop in the 60’s and made it back alive is ludicrous. 

So is arguing about using adaptive cruise control while lane filtering will make it brake all the time. FFS, nobody can save someone from their own stupidity. 

The right tool for the right job. 

I very rarely use motorways, but would love adaptive cruise in that situation. 

Cornering ABS, yes please, all these things are great for that one time you get caught unawares, or lose concentration for a second, or conditions change without you realising it. It does not matter if you’re a pro or novice. 

Also at the end, it’s a personal choice, but today’s bikes are definitely safer than the old shitboxes we had in the 80’s. 

It’s too big a torque wrench for 12lb I use a 1/4” for anything under 20lb, 3/8” for anything over, and my 1/2” for anything over 50lb. 

Right tool for every job. Not everyone has such range, but a 1/4” torque wrench is very useful for working on bikes as they use lots of small bolts on soft aluminium cases. 

Here's a better picture. 
the mount I got from Italy, super strong and very well designed. Lights don’t move at all. 
 

1 hour ago, dazzler24 said:

They look like they're Metzelers if I'm not mistaken.

Yep, Metzelers 01 SE's.

I changed the rear around 3000km's ago, now front.

I was a die hard Rosso III fan, used them on my VFR, Sprint ST since they came out and, a set on the Tracer, but 7000Km form the rear and 9000km from the front, and destroyed 2 of them on rough dirt roads, one of them with a stick the size of my thumb that went right through the middle of the rear tyre at 900km from new (they're too soft a carcass for that) means they no longer meet my riding type.

So far so good, had a really good ride a week ago when I got caught out with a massive down pour half way.

I think I managed to ride in the wet nearly as fast as the dry. And I don't pussy foot around.

I finally installed driving lights and got new tyres. 
 

The earth block problem was on the 98 to 01 VFR's.

Hidden inside the wiring harness of the VFR, there is a block junction to all the earths which are joined to a cable that goes to the frame. This gets corrosion over the years and causes problems.

No idea if the VTR has the same.

Anyway, PM me if you want so we're not filling this post with irrelevant information.

Bloody hell, you’re right about the spaghetti.

Not sure on the VTR, but on the VFR the earth block is a known issue that causes bad starting, among other things like lights in dash glowing for no reason sometimes. 

My old 1050 Sprint ST also had notoriously lazy starting, it always sounded like the battery was bad.  it was cured with a quality Lithium battery, when I sold the bike I kept the battery which is now in the Tracer. Both bikes start instantly. 

Just to clarify:

Setting correct ect sag does not change the softness or hardness of suspension. You can’t change the spring rate by preload. 

It just sets the shock or forks to have the correct amount of up and down travel. Or in other words it sets the suspension to where it will have the most amount of control. 

Changing rebound will change how it reacts, but not preload. 

14 hours ago, brad27 said:

I have sent them many pictures and some with a tape measure upon their request. There might be a problem with the mid section. Length and bends. They are going to check the master they have to compare with mine.

Does the Delkevic require you to remove the center stand? I want to keep it for obvious reasons.

Made specifically for the Tracer. Centre  stand is maintained. 
A few different mufflers to choose from as well. 

For the money, it doesn’t look like a great system. 

Spring joints all over the place which can be a bit of a nightmare to seal if fitment is not straight. No equaliser pipes between the headers for exhaust scavenging could make it drop some torque at lower revs. 

And it doesn’t look like it lines up at all. When they’re made up of so many parts, it’s usually because they can’t line them up properly in one piece. 

You’d be better off with a Delkevic full system, cheaper as well. 

1 hour ago, piotrek said:

Do you by chance remember how off spec they were at 100K?

They were out, but not enough to worry about, but since I had it apart for a full service including replacing all hoses, O rings, gaskets, valve shims and plugs, I thought it was worth doing. 
Once you pull apart a V4 this much, you might as well do everything. 

Or if you can’t do this for whatever reason, you could always send the injectors to get serviced and flow matched. It doesn’t cost much and you’ll then be sure they are ok. 

I did this for my VFR on the 100,000km service. They tested them first, then rebuilt them and flow matched them. All with a full before after report, if I remember correctly it was around AU$65 per injector. 

17 hours ago, skipperT said:

I’ve seen it Many, Many times over the years and I know what it looks like.

It’s insulting to me that you make an assumption about what I and/or other posting members have seen or what I/we know based on your disagreement about POTENTIAL failure possibilities that the collective have written down in this thread.

gentle reminder that we can agree to disagree, but still be respectful to each other while doing so.

-S

You must be very easily insulted then. Grow some skin man.

I still stand by what I said, I'm sure it's not coolant as it would be easily recognisable.

All those people who are saying it could be coolant leaking into oil have obviously never seen oil that has coolant mixed with it. 
Guarantee that it’s not the problem here, you would know as soon as you look at it.
It’s just a Tracer thing.  

I always string line the bike the first time, then just count flats from then on. 
And I’ll add that after string lining it and checking twice, I found the stock markings and measurements from swingarm flat to both be out, so if you’re wanting to make sure the bike is tracking true, then stringline is the only accurate way. 
I’ve always kept all my chains at 30 to 40mm slack and never had shortened life issues. The stock 15 recommended 5 to 15mm is a joke. 

1 minute ago, petshark said:

I have the YA537 shock from Ohlins but will be selling the bike (bought the new 9 GT).

Would you recommend selling it with the shock as a premium bike or take it off and sell it separately?

I've had it installed but now I have a motorcycle lift so I should be able to do it myself. 

What would you do?

 

I would definitely pull it out and send it far away, say to Australia for maybe $300 or so. 
Hey, that’s a coincidence, I’m after one as it happens. 

A light bike that's a bit tall and too much weight up high will always be a problem.

You will never get the low cost stock shock (set up for a 170lb rider) to suit two people and luggage without major work.

How much weight are you putting on the bike?

I always thought the stock side stand sat too close to the bike which won't help things either. This shouldn't be too hard to modify. It even nearly tips over with just me and luggage.

Like all Googled answers, it's not an accurate story.

A lot has to do with new pollution and efficiency laws, the bikes run very lean at certain conditions, and this makes for a very snatchy throttle.

Flashing ignores what is legally required, and tunes for performance instead.

Not necessarily more power, but better throttle control (power usually comes with it) as well as other benefits.

One huge benefit on the Tracer is removing the fuel cut off on closed throttle which is absolute crap and affects the most at low speeds and cornering.

There are others as well depending on what flash you use.

Keep in mind that once that shock is installed there will be no way of adjusting the spring preload without removing it.

Seems like a crazy idea for a bike that will have varying loads.