OZVFR

Hear hear, sooner or later, we all get caught out and active cruise is a help regardless of how good you think you are.

Lots of people complained about ABS when it first came out, and even quickshifters, I read somebody here saying that they don't need it because they can clutchless shift just as fast 😆 .

Auto cruise is good, active cruise is better, cornering ABS, quikshifters, ESA suspension, it is all bloody awesome.

My brother in law who is an accredited professional idiot refuses to use the auto headlights in his car, when I asked him why he stated "mate, I decide when the headlights go on". Fight the wars you know you can win I say.

Yes it is definitely a fun bike, glad that you're happy.

It has a few annoying things as you've found out.

The screen is useless, the ignition is in a dumb place, the omission of an adjustable clutch lever when it has an adjustable brake lever makes you scratch your head, suspension quality, the lower pannier location brackets that were made from old boat anchors, the stupid midget foot pegs, and I'm sure there is more I'm forgetting.

But everything is easily fixed.

The fuelling is indeed bad stock, but the fuel cut off on closed throttle makes it worse. Both fixed with an ECU flash.

I think the quarter turn fasteners are fantastic, makes working on the bike a lot quicker and you can't over tighten them which seems like some peoples favourite pastime.

^ same here. I’ve never owned a bike that didn’t clunk into first. 
Everything from old 70’s bikes to modern. It’s the result of the wet multi plate clutch design. 
There was a bloke on the 1050 Sprint group who said he never ever goes into neutral once he’s riding because he didn’t want to damage the gearbox. 
Not sure which alternative universe he grew up in. 

I know this will cop a bit of flack, but I think the whole sump is gonna smash thing is a bit overblown.

I definitely wouldn't lower it more than 15mm as it will be too susceptible to hitting the pegs and centre stand.

But I think the "you must get a sump guard" thing is a bit of an urban legend.

The Tracer has the same stock ground clearance as a Kawasaki ZXR1000 Ninja, and is very comparable to most sport tourers. The problem with the early Tracers was the seriously inadequate  suspension, specially the front.

In the early days of the Tracer someone hit piece of lose curbing the size of a brick, that went under their bike and turned over hitting the sump and smashing it causing terminal damage. This has also happened with people hitting speed humps and the whole saga got blown out of proportion.

The stock front suspension is undersprung and severely underdamped (don't ask me how but most riders don't notice), and when you have some overweight riders it is seriously compromised.

You need to put it in perspective of how many thousands of these bikes were sold world wide, and how few were damaged.

I bought mine knowing quite well that I would need to throw the stock suspension in the bin which I did, and often ride on dirt tracks that are questionable on choice and on less than perfect roads that we have here in Oz with a full load at spirited speeds.

My bike is lowered 15mm front and back, (I've also cut the centre stand stop by 10mm as it was hitting before my left  foot peg feeler). On my many a year multi day ride and camp trips, with all my camping, cooking, food and all weather clothing luggage I often hit the feelers on my after market pegs (which are much shorter than stock), but except for the one time on a seriously weather damaged bush track that had some really deep ruts after the biblical amounts of rain we had here last year and hit the bottom of the engine/muffler (it never damaged anything even though it was a big hit), it has never been a problem.

By the way, I've taken many bikes that I've owned on dirt roads that were always going to be a problem, I blame that on all my mates who now all have adventure bikes. I refuse.

Like always, your mileage will vary, but do a search on just how many Tracers actually got damaged by riders who weren't overweight for the stock suspension (which is anyone over 65kg).

I'll add that every model change after the 15/16, the suspension got better.

By the time of the GT, it was actually good, the ESA on the new bikes is a whole different ball game, bloody awesome.

1 hour ago, arthur said:

 

 

I’m 74kg and went with 0.9kg/mm springs. 
Emulators are for old type damper rod forks, not our ones. 
I had my local Racetech service centre install gold valves with new shim stacks to suit the new springs and my riding preference. 
Threw out the stock rear shock and installed an SSY shock with hydraulic preload adjuster. 
Transformed the bike, no more excessive dive under brakes or pogoing around corners. 

As a matter of fact, your life could be in danger if you don't.

So it's a safety thing. No mucking around with safety I say.

Most manufactures no longer use die release compounds, it is usually the smooth die surface that creates a shiny tyre surface and doesn't mean it will be slippery.

But good practice is to always scrub in your tyres gradually.

4 hours ago, texscottyd said:

Because I’m impulsive and make bad financial decisions, I really want to put 17” wheels on the XR1200.    I found this picture of a similar XR on traditional spoked wheels, and I really like it… right in line with the street tracker theme.  

What are your thoughts?   The other options include Dymags ($$$) and BST carbons ($$$$++) 

Yes yes yes.

2 hours ago, arthur said:

yes, you probably have a good point. I will give it more time.. I am 5ft 8 ....30" inseam I can get all of my toes on the ground - icant put much weight on the balls of my feet as they are barely making contact - thank you

I'm 5'6" with 29" inseam and lowered it with the Yamaha lowering links, and also lowered the front by the same amount (0.6").

I've replaced all the stock suspension though, as it was outright awful and impossible to make it handle anywhere near acceptable (to me at least). I already knew this before buying it, it only had 7000km on it when I bought it.

Don't be afraid of playing with the set up, and ask many questions, there is always someone here who has gone through the same thing.

I definitely wouldn't recommend 1.25" on stock suspension.

Is the seat in the low position? How short are you?

The bike carries it's weight quiet low, and once you get used to it, it's a lot easier.

Ride it for a while and decide then.

Them tyres are 8 years old. They would feel like plastic considering they weren't a good tyre to start with.

Even a new cheaper tyre would be better than what you have.

Easy enough to adjust the suspension with a helper, that front looks like the stock setting.

On 6/25/2023 at 3:00 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

Oz

Did you catch the last 3 words of my last post?

I'm dieing for the next season to start!

I'm very depressed Ted Lasso and the Marvelous Mrs Maisel ended.

Waiting for Extraordinary Attorney Woo and Slow Horses too

Have you watched Cowboy Beebop? 2&3?

Sorry for the high-jack.

1 hour ago, arthur said:

Hello! I am a new 2015 owner from Canada's west coast. Cortes Island.

First impressions: with a full tank of gas it does not carry it's weight well. The engine is powerful though. There are no long straights around the island I live on, but I had it up to 6000rpm

Hi and congratulations.

That is strange, I find the Tracer to be the first bike I've ever owned that handles better with a full tank of juice.

Is your suspension stock? have you adjusted it to suit?

First of all, cst16 and cst19 are very close, and if anyone could tell the difference it would be a very slightly softer action of the forks. 
I have many times used lighter or heavier oil to change the fork feel, but only for slight changes. Valving changes are a better option for anything more substantial. 
Even though I would suggest sticking with installation instructions, I can’t see why having the cartridges on changed sides would make any difference whatsoever. 
Having the fork damping set at the shop is never going to be accurate, no matter the type or brand. 
They must always be adjusted by riding and how they feel to you for the way you ride. Specially forks, they are much harder to set up by just bouncing the bike compared to the rear shock. 
Front fork sag should always be set up for 1/3rd of travel, rear shock a bit less. 

On 6/24/2023 at 12:49 AM, 2and3cylinders said:

Skip

Next check I'll have to note which direction I insert the feeler gauge.

Like aiming aiming for a small target you can't hit what you can't see

As I've gotten older, maximum illumination during this type of work and thinking the process through in a relaxed manner is the way.

This is the way. (I hope some of you have watched The Mandalorian)

I have two sets of feeler gauges (imperial and metric) that I bent to allow easier access, made life a lot easier on my old VFR and Sprint.

3 hours ago, motopete said:

I apologize for bringing up an old thread and to beat a dead horse, but I am a new owner of a 2019 Tracer gt and am just starting into this rabbit hole.

Is there other years FJ, MT, or Tracer skid plate/sump guards to fit the 2019? I know that are alot of crossover year and models in this CP3 family.

I like the look of the SRC style it looks like they don't carry them any more. I also like the Givi style but $460 in Canada is a little crazy. T-Rex looks cool but for my "streetbike" is a little overkill.

Is there other places/shops online to look for a quality guard without breaking the bank?

Thanks for all the knowledge and info so far guys!

If its just a street bike, why look for a skid plate?

10 hours ago, kilo3 said:

Or just shove a rag in there, no need for a silly tool.

Or just use the rear brake. 
There’s always someone coming up with a piece of crap tool that’s not needed. 
I would never put that much strain on the chain or sprocket when there’s no need for it. 
I use a strap around my brake pedal and centre stand to apply pressure, then nothing moves. 
 

21 minutes ago, Grumpy Goat said:

In those 30 years do you feel that grip has increased ...?

No comparison, tyres today are light years ahead both in grip and feedback. 
Everything has a trade off. 

20 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

and I was thinking Rossi IIIs were for pavement.  Learn something every day.  🙂

 

I don't like compromising road grip by catering to poor quality dirt roads 😃

Most of my multi day rides involve stints on the dirt, sometimes very bad ones which usually turn out fun (sometimes not).

All my mates have gone to adventure bikes, I refuse. They'll have to pry 17" wheels from my cold dead hands.

What I have noticed is the trend for new tyres to have a lot softer carcass than they used to.

I went 30 years without getting a puncture, my riding style hasn't changed but punctures now seem regular.

Fantastic bike, lots to like but at the opposite end of the spectrum of sports tourers compared to the Tracer.

Great drive out of corners at any rev, surprisingly agile and sure footed, faster than it actually feels because of a very flat torque curve, but I couldn't feel what the front tyre was doing which seriously tuned me off.

It might have been the stock tyres as the bike only had a few thousand km on it, but it was also why my mate sold it after only six months, He bought an S1000XR instead.

Sound and acceleration feel can't be compared to a Tracer, at least my 15 as I've never ridden a GT.

I destroyed two Rosso III's by getting huge holes that were too big to patch running over sticks on dirt roads.

The last one only had 500km on it, that one hurt.

I've now changed to Roadtec 01 SE's, already got a hole on the rear but managed to patch it on the side of the road with a rope, still there and holding for 2000km so far.

You're right Betony, I can't seem to find them either.

Or just get a cheap aftermarket chain adjuster blocks. 
No need for trailer park fix. 

I replaced original chain at 7000km with a quality DID. 
Adjusted it at 8500km, now has 24000km and haven’t had to adjust it yet. 

As a baseline you should adjust rebound until it first starts to slow down the fork return action, after that you’ll need to adjust by test riding. 
Best with someone holding the bike upright from behind while you stand on the pegs holding rear brake (not front) and bouncing the front. 
There is no perfect for everyone setting, it has to be adjusted to your riding style. 
Have you checked the other fork to see what adjustment the compression damping is set to?

I had my forks done by Racetech, so they came back already set up by the shock dyno (I didn’t leave it like that because I didn’t like it after test riding it), but cartridge’s often come set to zero as they’re not tested  

Thanks guys, I’ve ordered the cable and clutch arm. The slipper clutch will have to wait as all my money is going into our never ending and constantly expanding house renovation black hole.