OZVFR

I doubt it would be lowered 1.5-2” unless they’re non Yamaha parts.
That much lowering will have you scraping the stand and pegs at most corners unless you’re a very conservative rider. 
The factory Yamaha lowering links bring the rear down 15mm, you usually do the front by the same amount to keep the steering geometry the same. 
I have a 29” inseam and have lowered mine 15mm all round, but I also have shorter feelers and raised the stand by around 10mm. 
Can’t stand flat footed but the bike is so light that it doesn’t worry me. Rough dirt roads can sometimes be a pain, but still manage. 
Make sure the seat is in the low position. 
 

Ha, I just realised that it's not a top box but a fuel cell.

I can't afford to give up that much space.

I reminds me of touring with my mate on his Tuono, we had to stop at every fuel station to make sure he made it. Bloody annoying. The record was fuelling up 10 times over 2 days on our way to Phillip Island which is a 1200km trip.

5 hours ago, Warchild said:

 I was hoping you would score the MT-10 and then start that life-long love affair with it!  It was exactly one year ago today I procured my MT-10, it has been quite the wild ride:



After adding the 4.3-gal aux fuel cell and proper night lighting, it's a serious Desert Runner:

 

 🔥 🔥 🔥 🔥

I’ve been thinking of the same thing.

My only concern is the small tank, how do you find the short touring range?

If it had a 20L tank I’d be right on it. 

The only person that has to like it is you.

Some of us are horrified at sticking a spike into the muffler and bashing it to make a hole, you have no control of how it behaves.

This is just a forum, you find answers or post ideas and get feed back, people are too sensitive these days.

I'm sure it will sound better than the stock gasper.

Decided that there was no way in hell that I was going to pay the amount of money they are asking for screens, so made my own. 

2hrs of work and I’m happy, will have to wait to see how it goes, might need some tweaking. 

7 hours ago, gixer6 said:

Hello all, I'm a newbie here and only had my tracer 900 for 2 weeks.not sure if anyone has done a mod on there standard exhaust which took me literally 10mins to do and now sounds alot deeper and alittle louder but not crazy loud. It's basically putting a spike down the tail pipe and punching a 12mm hole in to chamber 3. 

😱
Calling it a mod is stretching a bit.
I have modified mine, removed the S bend and opened up between second and third chamber. Sounds great without being obnoxious. 
All up only took me around 1 hour plus taking it to the muffler shop to get it rewelded. 

I’ve got the Yamaha lowering links on my 15  and dropped the front by the same amount (15mm). No problems with the stand scraping but I’ve cut the ridiculously high stop rubber as can be seen in this picture, and have replaced my suspension on both ends  

I do however scrape my pegs even though they have a lot shorter feelers. They do stick out a bit more and this might be the cause. 


 

No difference in handling and much better with no front end dive. 
I’m a bit careful though with speed humps, otherwise no problem at all even fully loaded. Actually it is worlds apart from the stock set up. 

8 hours ago, arthur said:

Thank you to all,

 

I looked on progressive website - interesting stuff - they have a 25mm lower rear spring which presumably drops the back end down 15mm or so. 95 euros is affordable too (for the rear shock). Actually, although I have owned 15 motorbikes or so, I am least comfortable on this one partly because how high it is (I've dropped the front 7mm) so the idea of my bike sitting a little lower is very appealing..

 

 

when you say you put a progressive spring in - I'm guessing you are talking about the front..? Racetech states the stock is 0.70kg/mm, and that I should go with 0.93 = I have to choose between 0.90, and 0.95

I'm thinking of 0.90 because 95% of the time I am riding solo without luggage...

 

Thank you all

 

 

You can also swap out the rear linkage dog bone with a stock or after market lowering link.

Then you won't lose lose suspension travel, much better option than shorter spring.

And also agree to go with the 0.95.

On 10/23/2023 at 11:28 AM, texscottyd said:

East Texas things… 

It’s the same here, bloody Harleys. 

From my past research, I think the only difference is the later shock has a slightly stiffer spring to accommodate the longer swingarm, length is the same.

Not much point in changing a crap shock with another crap shock.

Also keep in mind that Yamaha has built the Tracer shock upside down, so any other shock will be really hard to adjust without a remote adjuster.

59 minutes ago, Mrtwisty said:

Back to BMW for me. Maybe an S1000XR, most likely another GSA. 1250 I think. The boost in mid  range over the 1200 was noticeable. The thing putting me off the XR is the same thing that nearly stopped me buying the Tracer. Bloody chains. I phucking hate chains.

Chain’s never worried me, but giving up single sided swingarms was a hard decision. 

2 hours ago, betoney said:

Agreed, I read the NT1100 forum as well and the bike has its share of "kinks".

As refined as the Africa Twin is, it also has its share of quirks and imperfections, though having owned (myself and immediate family currently own 4 Honda motorcycles) numerous Honda vehicles and products since I was a kid, 'overall' they are damn reliable.

😱 quirks and imperfections?

Honda's don't have quirks, just character traits.

And if they have kinks, its obviously because some KTM or Harley parts got mixed in by their suppliers 😜

Reminds me about a conversation with a Harley owner when I asked what the point of having mirrors was when the bike vibrated so much. He stated that Harleys didn't vibrate, they power pulsed.

8 hours ago, Heavy said:

It has been out in Europe for a year and the base architecture (Hornet) a year prior to that.  Think the kinks should be ironed ... at least I hope so. 

It's a Honda, it won't have any kinks.

I don’t know anything about Noco, but I’ve had an SSB lithium battery on my Tracer for 2 and a half years. 
Before that the same battery was in my 1050 Sprint for a bit over a year. 
I’ve had no problems, starts better and a third of the weight.  
Some people are worried about cold weather starting, but I’ve had no problem starting the bike while camping at -2*C. 

5 hours ago, miweber929 said:

Does the shock retain the remote preload adjuster like the OEM shock has or do you have to use a spanner? 

I don't have a Penske, but I can guarantee you it will not match up to the stock adjuster.

Yamaha in their wisdom built the Tracer shock upside down.

But the shock he's selling might come with a remote preload adjuster.

On 10/14/2023 at 5:25 AM, DHDad said:

I am amazed there aren't more posts about rear sets, foot pegs on this forum. Tried both positions and find it almost impossible to get my riding boot toe under the shifter. I'm not big foot either, size 42 riding boot/9.5 US. Pic ^^^ from 2and3cylinders appears to be an older 900 not a 9 GT.

I just measured the distance between the center of the foot peg to the center of the shifter on all my bikes. My Monster is 6.25", Ninja 6" and Tracer only 5.5" plus the fattest of the foot pegs and biggest diameter rubber cover on the shifter making the distance even smaller.

Not many options either I've found. Woodcraft makes rear sets but they state "for racing only" as they don't fold. Plus quite pricey.

I'm going to give the Puig foot pegs with the 20mm 360 degree adjuster, should at least get me back to the distance I have on the other bikes.

It seems a silly question, but have you adjusted the gear lever up?

I have size 43 boots that are very heavy duty and have no problems with fit under it. 
it’s a bit too high when I wear my summer short ventilated boots but not enough to readjust. 

Just a thought, my 15 sometimes has more front lever travel than other times, not often but enough that I have noticed.

At first I thought it might have been air, as I removed the MC and held it at an angle so any bubble stuck at the banjo would escape up through the feed hole. It felt better after so I thought that was it, but have noticed it again since.

If you're using MC that has more travel, this might be why it goes so far as opposed to the stock one when this strange thing happens.

I have EBC HH pads and stopping is excellent, even better when hot.

On a very spirited ride in the Snowy Mountains last year I was working the brakes very hard going into corners on a fully loaded bike.

They were good but not superb, then I felt a big crack through the lever, I stopped to check because it felt like a disk had cracked. Couldn't find anything but the brakes have been fantastic since.

No idea what caused this, but it has never happened again.

I wonder if it was a stuck piston?

He either had no idea what he’s talking about, or wanted to sell what he had. 

10 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Not black!

My faster than red stealth grey looks better in gold 😉

On 9/25/2023 at 8:57 AM, The Cheese said:

Gold bars would look good with the gold forks I think. 

it does

2 hours ago, knyte said:

Came across this today - thought it might be a handy reference for some of us.

I was looking for a reflector I cracked and smashed a couple of years ago...

Great find, doesn't look like the lids are available any more unfortunately.

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

You use a propane touch to preheat the bends?

New project to maybe sneak in before badly needed brake flush n bleed, change air filter and plugs n chk tb sync...

No, rubber mallet.

But I very accurately guessed how hard to beat the crap out of it.

Grab a mallet 2&3, repeat to yourself: "this is not rocket science", and go for it 🙂

It actually only took one hit.

5 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

As a side note, has anybody tried? Bending the 6 mil rod U extension heal guard that keeps you from backing up into the pipe just a little bit? I mean, how often are you gonna be Sittin with your feet back at idle at a light?

Yep, I did it successfully. 
It wasn’t a lot but enough to make a difference. 

On a work meeting. 

I can’t imagine that leaving ignition on with kill switch on off position for a while would drain your battery that quickly, unless your battery is on its final legs. 
I swapped to a Lithium on my Sprint over three years ago and then swapped it into the Tracer when I bought it and haven’t looked back. 
Less than half the weight and 10 Ah.