OZVFR

I thought you might be OCD 2&3, but just realised the you're actually CDO 😄

1 hour ago, howie333 said:

Isn't the AIS used w/ the cat on a stock system ?

 

Yes, it allows fresh air to go in to help burn off unburnt fuel as it passes the very hot cat.

AIS or no AIS makes no difference to performance, and I happen to like the popping and farting on a closed throttle as it goes past the 4000's rpm mark.

No, you just need to tell whoever’s doing it that you have a stock system. 

14 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Do you have a template or pattern you could post with a scale bar in it for size when printing?

Thanks 

I’ll have to hunt around for it in my random filing system. 
I made a cardboard template, then cut it oversized on some Perspex. Used bench grinder to get it to final size and shape. 
Then heated it up with heat gun to give it a slight bend. 
It works well on my screen which is wider at the bottom than the top. 

9 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I just want to know where the clear side deflectors came from and how they attach?!

I'd think black would be better but the clear could be faux carbon weave wrapped but again, where is the source if not DIY and some close-up shots of mounts would be greatly appreciated.

I've considered DIY but mounting was stumping me.

3M double sided tape (sticks like shit to a blanket) and a heat gun to bend it into shape, have stood the test of 1000's of km. They just add a bit more protection from the elements. 

I've worked with air flow in my work life for years, the problem was the turbulence created by the edge of the screen.

I had a bit of a serious look at what was happening and thought of this.

It allows air to be deflected, but sucks enough from under the screen to clean up the swirl, the rounded edge also helps to soften it.

It's actually a very small screen. I still get hit by airflow on the front of my helmet, but its smooth.

I'm not a fan of tall screens or beaks.

Made my own wind deflector for my adapted MT10 screen. 
Tried a clip on wing but wasn’t happy with turbulence. 
It’s surprising how well this small thing cleans up the air. Super happy. 

+ 1 for the Fleabay FJR1300 pegs, made a huge difference to me as I couldn't stand the made for children stock ones.

This site is really good to compare accurate results of changes to front, rear or both sprockets. 
you can load your bike and three different set ups to compare. 
I’ve used it for years with all my bikes as I usually add 2 teeth to rear. 
 

https://www.gearingcommander.com

Keep in mind that every suspension needs correct spring and matching valving for the rider to get the best out of it. 
A properly set up high range suspension is still not as good as a properly set up ESA. 
Wether some riders notice any difference or indeed need it, is a different story. 

I also think some people are missing the point of what ESA is good for. 

11 hours ago, kilo3 said:

I’ve gotten so many counterfeit items off ebay I just stopped trusting the platform all together.

The latest is the full Akra for the Tracer. They were selling them as new for AU$1050, now they’re saying that they’re second hand for the same price. 
A quick look shows that it’s a copy, no link pipes and different exit pipe. 
Problem is people are paying too much money for a much lower quality fake. 
Fine if they advertise it as a fake copy, but a rip off for people who think they’re buying the real thing. 
Many other examples. 
Caveat emptor. 

I can’t say I know, but I don’t think servicing should be any harder that normal USD forks. 
You could always just ring your local suspension shop and ask. 
And yes, 75000km is too long, but he bought the bike with 50000km on it so not sure if it’s been done, and I must say it still handled superbly 

Just replaced my rear with a Road 6, AU$406. What a ripoff. 

13 hours ago, duckie said:

There is a big difference between clutchless up shifts and a quick shifter. 
I didnt think much about a qs until I put one on my track 04 R1.  I fell in love with it. I didnt have do a thing with the throttle, just twist hard and upshift when needed. 
The qs is the reason I waited till the 2019 Gt came out. Its one of those things you dont think much about until you use one. I thought cc was silly on a motorcycle until I used it. 
It has been so nice just to come out of a corner onto a straight, get hard on the throttle and just upshift while still hard on the gas……makes things easier. 
So yeah you dont need one, but once you use one, its hard to go back to clutchless upshifts.

Now here is a question…..There are different type sensors that can be used on the shift rod…..push, pull, push/pull. If the sensor on a 2019 is a push type, what would happen if a push/pull type replaced it. The ECU just sees a signal from the sensor, doesnt care about the direction the shift rod moves. 
Hmmmmm interesting…

You might be onto something here, didn't think of it that way.

On my Healtech QS, I can set it to sense on push, pull, or both.

You won't get it to blip, but it should cut ignition both ways. Only issue might be delay and cutoff times.

Not an Tracer, but my mate has three Triumph 1200 Explorers.

Fist model, second model and third model. (don't ask)

The last two both have ESA, and the first had the suspension redone with correct springs and Gold Valves by Racetech, the other two are stock.

The second has over 75000km on it and untouched, I have ridden all of them on long trips and can definitely say that the ESA is much much better than the Racetech set up. The third is better again, but it could be to being a fair bit lighter than the previous two.

The ability to change damping and preload on the go in a fraction of a second shouldn't be underestimated. Comfortable one second, hit a corner hard the next under brakes and it displays no dive and mind bending amounts of grip no matter the surface, and this is still a heavy bike on skinny tyres.

Best thing since sliced bread.

34 minutes ago, NormR said:

I was disappointed to see how much taller I was sitting on the T9 compared to my 2019. I used to stand on the balls of my feet while at a stop on my 2019, which was doable. Unfortunately while shopping for the T9gt I was sitting in the showroom and my toes were stretched down starving for terra firma. I find it a deal breaker for me.

Are you sure the seat wasn’t in the high position?

Correct, they have their own circuit board, but not all QS that have downshift have auto blippers. 
I have a Healteck QS, no outdo blipper on it, and not really made for downshift, but I still manage to do them without a problem. 
I actually very rarely use the clutch after taking off unless I’m in traffic, under 4500rpm or coming to a stop. 
Even second to first is very smooth if you know what you’re doing. 

Quick shifters or the sensor and rod are a dumb item, the cutting, delay and auto blip happens in the ECU.

Swapping a QS from one bike to another is not going to give you extra features.

A lot of stuff is happening in the background once you start moving the gear lever. There is an initial delay, than a cut off time, all change according to revs and sometimes even gear you're selecting.

5 minutes ago, tktplz said:

I figured out years ago and I use a Garmin. Phones use towers and a GPS uses satellites. If I'm riding these days it's in the mountains. Phones don't work in mountains but Garmin does. Garmin can find satellites, phone to tower in the mountain... not so much. My phone stays in the tank bag, just in case. . 

Not sure on other brands, but Apple phones have GPS built in.

All you need is the right App.

I've been using my IPhone for wilderness trekking for years.

1 hour ago, Wintersdark said:

It's always helpful to have one of these posts to remind me why I don't want to live in Australia every now and again.

And yeah, I bet it will be an option on the next Tracer, it's got every other electrical doodad.

Driving the Oregon coast on the way to Whistler we nearly hit a pack of Elk (group, herd, swarm?) crossing the road, I prefer to hit a roo I think.

All my friends have changed over to Quadlock over the last few years after seeing my one.

Antivibe mount with wireless charging is the go, no other brand comes close.

Peak Designs are good, they make camera tripod mounts and camera straps which I use, pricy but good, they don't do anything better than Quadlock for motorcycles IMO.

10 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Those are huge! 

If their cannons maybe you can use them down there

I wish they were cannons sometimes, hit a kangaroo at 120 on my VFR, at the last second I stood up and gunned it.

Only broke my mudguard and front wheel needed realigning, but a little bit of poop came out of me.

My mate hit an emu doing 160, broke the top triple clamp but somehow stayed upright, the emu exploded.

Over the years I've hit kangaroos, one emu, goannas, dingos, an eagle (that one took me by surprise), a flock of cockatoos doing 180, one got my throttle hand and went through my glove and drew blood, a plague of locust that lifted from a field and went across the front of me doing 150 and instantly totally blocked my visor and went into my partially open jacket and inside my helmet. It was mid summer and 47°C with 140km to go, had to use my last bit of water to try clean my visor so I could see where I was going.

A force field would be a better option, I think that's on the next model Tracer.

12 hours ago, Eduardo Scherer said:

Hello,
Very nice set of lights. Can you provide the suppliers of the mount and the lights, please.
Do you happen to know if they work with the usual duck beak for the Tracers?
Thanks!

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/174359209617

Not sure if they works with beak as I threw mine out when I bought bike, it's not an adventure bike and does nothing in my view.

Excellent fit and super sturdy.

I went for the popcorn when this thread as many others turned into a pissing competition. 
I originally was going to ask if the OP came from a cruiser, it would explain his feeling that the rear brake is weak. 
But then I read he had midsized sports bikes beforehand, so if he thinks it’s weak the chances are there’s something wrong as the stock rear is pretty good I think. 
Relying on engine braking is a bad habit, much better to actually learn to ride properly. 
Getting more popcorn now. 
 

Just make sure any PDF manual you buy to download is indexed, if not you'll be scrolling through hundreds of pages trying to find what you want.