32k Miles - First Time Valve Clearance Check and Engine Issues - Sanity Check

[tkong]

Hello everyone,

I've recently attempted my first valve clearance check on my 2019 Tracer 900, but I'm concerned about the results. Despite being new to such detailed mechanical tasks, I ensured to double-check my measurements, and they consistently indicate that the exhaust valve clearance is approximately 0.11mm, which is considerably below the specified range of 0.26-0.30mm. Is it common for the exhaust valves to be this far out of spec?

Here's some background on the bike:

Purchased in 2021, currently around 32,000 miles.
Regular maintenance (oil+filter, chain+sprockets, new air filter) has been kept up.
The bike has been dropped twice at low speeds with protective crash cages.
Recently, the engine began stalling in the morning unless I kept revving it, and sometimes stalled even when the clutch was engaged or throttle applied. After replacing the front tire, and changing nothing else, these issues seemed to worsen, limiting the bike's speed to about 40mph. The gear shifts appear normal on the display but don't seem to engage properly. Additionally, I noticed the plastic housing at the end of the clutch cable is worn, and the bolt securing the clutch lever is missing.

Considering these issues, I'm contemplating whether to have a professional mechanic finish the valve adjustment and check other potential problems. Can I bring the bike to a shop without reinstalling the fairings, gas tank, and air filter to potentially reduce the cost? What are typical charges for such services?

Thank you for your insights!

[skipperT]

Yep, typical.
It’s normal for the exhaust valves to get tight, sometimes VERY tight.

If you don’t have confidence in adjusting them, call your local shop/person and see if they would be willing to work on it to finish the job. I’d recommend putting the valve cover back on and spark plugs installed loosely to keep out moisture, debris etc. 

Most shops probably get 2-4 hours for a valve adjustment. I’m not including fluids or anything else in that estimate. 
-Skip

[betoney]

1 hour ago, tkong said:

Purchased in 2021, currently around 32,000 miles.

Regular maintenance (oil+filter, chain+sprockets, new air filter) has been kept up.
The bike has been dropped twice at low speeds with protective crash cages.
Recently, the engine began stalling in the morning unless I kept revving it, and sometimes stalled even when the clutch was engaged or throttle applied. After replacing the front tire, and changing nothing else, these issues seemed to worsen, limiting the bike's speed to about 40mph. The gear shifts appear normal on the display but don't seem to engage properly. Additionally, I noticed the plastic housing at the end of the clutch cable is worn, and the bolt securing the clutch lever is missing.

Considering these issues, I'm contemplating whether to have a professional mechanic finish the valve adjustment and check other potential problems. Can I bring the bike to a shop without reinstalling the fairings, gas tank, and air filter to potentially reduce the cost?

If the bolt is missing from the clutch lever I can understand why it might not shift correctly as the clutch engagement would obviously be affected.  If it were me, I would replace the lever bolt and get the clutch working correctly before making any other troubleshooting guesses or paying a mechanic to run a diagnosis.  Did the stalling issues happen to coincide with the missing lever bolt?

Is there a check engine light or any error codes on the display?

When I have brought my bike to the shop in the past I have removed all panels to save them time and potential damage (I load it in my truck) but I always leave the tank and seat installed in case they need to ride it around the parking lot to check operation.

[tkong]

3 hours ago, betoney said:

If the bolt is missing from the clutch lever I can understand why it might not shift correctly as the clutch engagement would obviously be affected.  If it were me, I would replace the lever bolt and get the clutch working correctly before making any other troubleshooting guesses or paying a mechanic to run a diagnosis.  Did the stalling issues happen to coincide with the missing lever bolt?

Is there a check engine light or any error codes on the display?

When I have brought my bike to the shop in the past I have removed all panels to save them time and potential damage (I load it in my truck) but I always leave the tank and seat installed in case they need to ride it around the parking lot to check operation.

Yes the check engine light came on a day after the latest crash. I've bought a Yamaha code reader, but since the bike is still apart I haven't been able to test it. Does the bike need to be fully assembled to view the codes? Is there any danger if I hookup the battery with the gas tank / spark plugs out and just check the electronics?

[betoney]

17 minutes ago, tkong said:

Yes the check engine light came on a day after the latest crash. I've bought a Yamaha code reader, but since the bike is still apart I haven't been able to test it. Does the bike need to be fully assembled to view the codes? Is there any danger if I hookup the battery with the gas tank / spark plugs out and just check the electronics?

Ok then this bit of information opens up a whole different line of troubleshooting. 

The gas tank or spark plugs don't need to be installed to power up the bike (not sure if fuel pump disconnected will throw a code?).  As long as the battery is connected and ECU is plugged in you should be able to use the code reader.  I suppose you could always connect the fuel tank connections and lay the tank on a towel.

Resident tech guru @skipperT might offer more suggestions or correct my assumptions.

[skipperT]

You can check codes in its current state, but realize that anything not connected currently OR not connected when the key was last turned on could set a code, especially if the engine is cranked over. Some sensors require engine revolution before the ECM checks to see if they are connected - others will trip a MIL when key is turned on. 

you’ll probably see a code 30,’which is for the bike going over, and/or one for engine stall (19 maybe?). They could have been what tripped your MIL originally  

This really isn’t a good time to troubleshoot your running issue via a code reader. It IS important to CLEAR the codes when everything is back together and before the bike is started. Then if something sets you’ll have a clear path toward troubleshooting the issue. (Meaning, starting from a base line with no codes stored). Or do it just after getting it running if you forget  

Don’t ever give it gas when starting. Hands off the throttle. Hold the start button in for a longer crank time until it catches. The only exception to this rule is if it’s flooded. Make sure you replace the spark plugs and the battery voltage is 12.7 or greater during this repair session. Your battery could be on the edge as well, if not taken care of - just replace it and buy a Yuasa not some eBay/amazon junk.

as Betoney mentioned - replace the clutch cable and pivot. Get it back together with the valves in spec and then see how it goes. You’ve got too many things going on currently and you need to get back to baseline  

-Skip