CREE Fog Lights How To:

[ULEWZ]

Here is a link directly to the how to: linky
 
Lessons learned:
Use a relay. The leads coming from the fuse box to the factory connectors are only 22 gage and will not support the 18 X 2 amps.
If you use the factory light connectors to switch the relay, the Cree lights will only come on with the engine running. That is why I chose the Auxiliary connector which works with just the ignition on.
Use a socket on the relay, it just make wiring a whole lot easier, however, you can use spade bits if you have trouble sourcing the socket.
Install all quick disconnects with the female side on the hot side so nothing can short out if the connectors get disconnected some how.
Push in the center of the plastic mounting clips for easy removal, and pull them back out slightly prior to reinstalling.
Trying to use an Add-A-Circuit fuse will require cutting the fuse box case, so I opted not to use it. Very limited clearance here.
 
 
I am going to be doing this in parts as my brackets have not shown up yet, more to come.
I will use a posi-tap 7.5amp on the 2 amp switched circuit.
Question, I plan on using the SW-MOTECH switch and CREE 18W LED lights. Did you guys that already installed this combo use a relay, or is the switch robust enough to run the power through without using a relay?
I assume you switched the hot side to limit areas that can be shorted?
 
Ok, found out my SW-MOTECH switch is rated for 10 amps, relay not required (thanks for the response anyhow).
Here is a wire gage chart that will help (looks like 18 gage is fine, but I may go to 16 gage just because):
 

 
 
 

[docsimple]

ULEWZ what brackets will you be using and where mounting? I tried the fork mount and the brackets bent. Trying to find a place to buy just the Yammie bracket without the fog lights but open to suggestions if you have a better plan

[ULEWZ]

ULEWZ what brackets will you be using and where mounting? I tried the fork mount and the brackets bent. Trying to find a place to buy just the Yammie bracket without the fog lights but open to suggestions if you have a better plan

This is what I will try, but no guarantees it will work. I will be the guinea pig. linky 
The stock forks are 1.9 inches (48.26 mm), and these are 2.0 inches (51mm), but it should work or I will use tape or shims.
 

[docsimple]

Looks nice. I am going to get a lighter pair of lights as well as new brackets so I look forward to your review.
 
thanks!

[ericm]

Yesterday I was looking at the forks and thinking of mounting lights on them. I'm not planning on sliding the forks up in the triple clamps so there is plenty of room. These clamps look perfect. This clamp design should clear the radiator with plenty of room. Hopefully there is enough room for the lights to not hit the bodywork at full lock.
 
You could mill or file the center part that the loop bolts to in order to tighten the fit.

[ULEWZ]

Just finished, Here is a tease.
 

 
 
 

[b12ty]

Just finished, Here is a tease.  
 

Looks great Lewis! Question, since I know you... what prompted you to install these? I didn't know you rode at night much.... 
Ty
 

[docsimple]

those clamps look awesome! Solid as they look?

[ULEWZ]

Just finished, Here is a tease.  
 

Looks great Lewis! Question, since I know you... what prompted you to install these? I didn't know you rode at night much.... 
Ty

After work on Thursday's. I find I don't see great at night anymore.

[ULEWZ]

those clamps look awesome! Solid as they look?

I hope so. I had to use a cut up inner tube as a shim, so it is tight, but the platform moves ever so slightly. Should be fine. I will post up my findings as I ride more.

[sareis]

Just finished, Here is a tease.  
 

Lewis, quick question. Could you mount these upside down and higher up on the fork to hide the bracket? It's hard to tell from the pics. I am wondering  if it would hit any body parts or if the bottom triple would be in the way. I am thinking about lights as well. I ride a long way every day in the dark. 

[ULEWZ]

Parts list:
1. Fork Brackets
2. Two M6 bolts (stainless preferred)
3. Four M6 lock washers (stainless preferred)
4. Two M6 lock nuts
5. 16-18 gage wire, red and black
6. Handlebar or equivalent switch rated for 10 amps
7. Four, 16-18 male disconnect ends
8. Four, 16-18 female disconnect ends
9. Heat shrink tubing
10. Two Cree lights, 18 watts
11. One standard 16-18 power quick disconnect
12. Rubber inner tube
13. 3/8 in. sheathing (wiring overwrap)
14. Relay, Novita RL44 30/40 amp (Autozone)
15. Relay socket, Novita RS40 (Autozone)
16. 16-18 amp waterproof inline fuse holder and 15 amp fuse
Steps:
1. Install the Cree lights as follows:
[span]    [/span]a. Wrap some clear packing tape around the fork legs where the fork brackets will mount
[span]    [/span]b. Cut up some rubber inner tube to fit around the fork brackets
[span]    [/span]c. Fasten the fork brackets to the fork tube approximately 3 inches up from the fork tube transition (test the height to ensure there will be no interference)
[span]    [/span]d. Mount the Cree lights to the fork brackets using M6 bolts, M6 Lock washers (under bolt head and under nut), and M6 lock nuts.
[span]    [/span]e. Twist the positive leads from each Cree light together and then twist a 8 to 12 inch length of red wire onto the other two positive leads, and solder and shrink [span][/span][span][/span]wrap the wires together.
 

[span]    [/span]f. Twist the negative leads from each Cree light together and then twist a 8 to 12 inch length of black wire onto the other two positive leads, and solder and shrink [span][/span]wrap the wires together.
[span]    [/span]g. Add waterproof male quick disconnects to the black and red wire ends.
[span]    [/span]h. Connect a female quick disconnect to a 12 inch or longer length of red wire and connect to the male quick disconnect fastened to the red wire from the Cree positive [span][/span]wire.
[span]    [/span]i. Route the red wire connected to the Cree positive wires to the relay mounting location.
[span]    [/span]j. Solder and heat shrink the red wire connected to the positive wire from the Cree lights to pin 87 on the relay (yellow wire on the RS40 socket).
2. Install the handlebar switch as follows:
[span]    [/span]a. I used the SW Motech switch, but found the little mounting screws were too short, so I used little screws I had laying around that were about 3/8 in. longer, YMMV
[span]    [/span]b. Remove the four screws and windscreen
 

 

[span]    [/span]c. Remove four screws and underlaying support pieces (Metal brackets and plastic cover)
[span]    [/span]d. Pick one of the auxiliary power leads and splice (solder and shrink wrap) two wires (red and black wires using male/female quick disconnects which are preferred [span][/span][span][/span]here).
 

[span]    [/span]e. Run the red wire which was previously connected to the positive aux wire, to one side of the handlebar switch and install a waterproof quick disconnect for easy [span][/span][span][/span]handlebar access.
 

[span]    [/span]f. Splice a short section of red wire with a waterproof quick disconnect and connect to the other handlebar switch wire.
[span]    [/span]g. Route the short section of red wire to the relay socket and solder and heat shrink onto pin 86 of the relay (the black wire on the RS40 socket).
[span]    [/span]h. Run the black wire which was previously connected to the negative aux wire, to pin 85 of the relay (white wire on RS40 socket).
3. Install the standard power connector as follows:
[span]    [/span]a. Install one end of the standard power connecter and leads onto battery terminals. (I use a standard power connector as it will double as a charging connector for use [span][/span]with my Battery Tender).
 

[span]    [/span]b. Solder and shrink wrap the inline waterproof fuse (leave out 15 amp fuse for now) into a large length of red 16-18 gage wire.
[span]    [/span]c. Match the red wire length with black wire and run through a slightly shorter length of overwrap/conduit.
[span]    [/span]d. Solder and heat shrink the other end of the standard power connector to the red and black wires.
[span]    [/span]e. Route the red and black power wires to the relay mounting location, (I ty-wrapped the relay next to the aux connectors under the windshield).
[span]    [/span]f. Solder and shrink wrap the red power wire to pin 30 of the relay (blue wire on RS40 socket).
[span]    [/span]g. Using a female quick disconnect, connect to the black power wire to the previously spliced black (negative) wire coming from the Cree lights.
4. Install the relay as follows:
[span]    [/span]a. Ty-wrap the RL44 relay to the area under the windshield where the aux wires are located.
[span]    [/span]b. Connect the RS40 socket to the RL44 relay.
 

5. Add the 15 amp fuse to the inline fuse holder.
6. Verify the following quick disconnects are connected together:
[span]    [/span]a. At the switch, two places.
[span]    [/span]b. At the black and red wires coming from the Cree lights.
7. Connect the power line standard quick disconnects together.
8. Move the handlebars side to side and verify the wires will not rub and will not be taught. Adjust wiring routing and add ty-wraps as required.
9. Turn on ignition and turn on the new Cree lights.
10. Adjust angle of Cree lights and go ride.
 
Here is the electrical schematic I used/made:
 

 
 

[ULEWZ]

Yesterday I was looking at the forks and thinking of mounting lights on them. I'm not planning on sliding the forks up in the triple clamps so there is plenty of room. These clamps look perfect. This clamp design should clear the radiator with plenty of room. Hopefully there is enough room for the lights to not hit the bodywork at full lock. 
You could mill or file the center part that the loop bolts to in order to tighten the fit.

They fit plenty tight side to side, it is fore and aft that can't be fixed without shims. 

[ULEWZ]

Just finished, Here is a tease.  
 

Lewis, quick question. Could you mount these upside down and higher up on the fork to hide the bracket? It's hard to tell from the pics. I am wondering  if it would hit any body parts or if the bottom triple would be in the way. I am thinking about lights as well. I ride a long way every day in the dark.

Probably, but since they are a pain to center with the rubber shims, I will defer to the next installer and leave mine alone.   

[ULEWZ]

The final version: