ULEWZ

Nice, keep us updated along with prices and installing over a flash tune.

That is the only time I use the rear brake. Never in a panic stop, just don't trust the rear brake not to fling me off due to my skill level (I have seen it happen, so no). I have pulled the front brake so hard the back end came off the ground, so not much use with the rear brake then. I use the rear brake when lane splitting, coming to a stop at a traffic light, low speed maneuvers, sand (impromptu offroading), and POPO sightings of course. YMMV

Nice!

Welcome aboard.

Very great story. I am extremely sorry for your loss and hope you have great memories for years to come. Gods speed.

If a proper internal patch is used, I have no problem going full tilt on a patched tire. I am referring to the witches hat type internal patch. A plug patch, not so much, but it would probably be fine for normal day to day riding.

No, do one at a time. you need the rear wheel on unless you have a pitbull type rear stand. Technically you could, but it will be a balancing act.

I do it all the time using a block of wood and a floor jack.

Other than the slight mismatch in color, it looks great (and factory to boot!).

re-read http://fj-09.org/post/50831 Frankly you should, but it's impossible to do that and keep things on the bike. IMO just buy the proper stand and the hand tools and take the frontend apart. It's not hard. Oil volume is not an accurate way to set oil height. The most correct way is to add oil, bleed the cartridge, and then measure height with a ruler or graduated stick. add/subtract till you get to the number you want. I recommend 150mm but 130 works (more resist to bottoming). I started with 130mm and ended up with 150mm. 130mm was a bit harsh (not as much air cushion).

Pictures or you will get a 30 day ban. Just kidding, can you post some pictures of the Cee Bailey please?

First post, and it is a troll post? Please explain?

The Carbtune is a quality tool, but I doubt you will get any closer than a dial type. I have been using a quad dial type for years with good results, just not as easy to work with.

Push the center in, not out (will release the locking mechanism just like pulling it out) and you then use your fingernail to pop the entire fastener out. Note, you do not remove the center piece as some have alluded to.

Very clever Lawrence. Welcome back.

Just a suggestion, unless you are stuck in the snow until middle of spring, why not ride it like it is so you will know how much you improved it? I actually love the gold and especially the red stripes with the black, but am curious what the fully murdered F-Jay will look like. YMMV. I assume you like all black? Nice mods, but I don't think you will need the steering damper after the suspension mods unless you track it. That is the only place where mine needs it after my suspension mods, going down the front straight at big willow, speed shifting at 120mph. Slight wobble, but controllable if you lean forward and shift smooth.

Most of that video is good, but he failed to show how to route the electrical wire harness loop and how use the plastic piece and little screw to secure it. This video and the How To will help. The hardest part is figuring out the loop and that is what is missing.

It goes on the outside of the flange next to the grip. Maybe you need to loosen up the cable slack? Mine has play inward and outward about 1/16 of an inch.

Fixed it for ya. I used the insert image icon and added the url.

Nice button placement. Let's see, garage door with no insulation, so that means a warmer climate. So. Cal?

Yes. No need to weld all the way around the new pipe in new hole. My pipe did not have the exhaust tip cut off and a new 2" tip welded on, just the S-tube cut, a new hole cut, and a section of the S-tune cut and welded into the new hole. Then the section of the S-pipe that remained in the exhaust tip was cut. Is this way as good as putting on a new 2" tip? Well, I was actually going to have Ty finish the job and cut my stock tip off and put in a 2" section, but sadly, that is no longer possible. Why, because it results in a subtle, but lower sound. I am actually fine the way it currently is, but.... Everything you need to do is in the pages and pages of posts, so read up and give it a shot.

Then change your location in your profile.

Nope. Google does not help in explaining your motivation. Nor do any of my BTeC electrical engineering text books. Electrons are electrons and the OE Yuasa does a fine job of delivering the right quantity when I want them. The Tracer does not give a monkey's if they are sourced from a lead or Lithium Iron based soup. Even if the Yuasa failed, the Lithium Iron type battery would not be on the list of contenders as a replacement. As @johan states, the main difference is the lower mass but a standard YTZ10S is hardly a heavy item to begin with. To change a perfectly good AGM battery for a new one seems illogical for monetary and environmental reasons. I have purchased four LiPo batteries and find they do more then save weight, but that is a definite plus on a dirtbike which is what I put mine in. Additionally, they will maintain a state of charge longer than a regular lead battery when just sitting around, which is also a great reason to purchase one. On a negative note, they take a while to warm up in the cold and may need a few cycles of the starter to have enough juice to work due to this. The cycling of the starter warms up the battery, and it will release more cold cranking amps. I also find they last one or two years longer before going bad (my experience YMMV). They also cost a bunch more, which is the only real down side IMO.

Nope, nowhere near you. I was mistaken. Way south of Angeles Camp. OOPS.

A few of us will be in your area next Friday. It will be a long 513 mile day riding from the 33/166, to the 58 to the 229, to the 41, on into Cambria for lunch. Then turn around and head home.