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I put a digital voltmeter from Ebay in the 12V socket and rode to work & back with heated grips & Keis heated jacket. The alternator output didn't drop, even when stationary at a red light with the engine at around 1100rpm. 
 
$_57.JPG
 
The alternator is rated at 415W and my jacket has a 7.5A fuse so low compared to some other models.
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I found this for generalization. Suggests 285 watts for fuel injected bikes. Less for the FJ with LED headlamps and tailamp. Says the fuel pump draw increases with dirty fuel filter which would make sense. linky
Everyday's a good day when your able to ride
 
15 FJ-09 - 2WDW ECU flash, Givi SV201, Nelson Rigg tail bag, OES sliders, Koubalink extenders, Ermax Sport, Vista Cruise, OEM seat mod, (smiles)
07 Honda ST1300A (sold)
06 Kawi KLR650 - Big Gun full exhaust, Corbin, Givi, PMR racks, carb mod (keeper)
97 Honda VFR750 - Traxxion Dynamics, Penske, Givi 3 piece, carbon exhaust (keeper?)
20+ years of snowmobiles
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load is going to vary - peak load can be lots if you activate the ABS as the piston in the pump will draw a few amps as it kicks in.
 
The good thing it the headlamps are LED so draw a lot less current than incandescent bulbs.
 
The main fuse is 50A which will allow for those peak, transient inrush currents for when motors first energise. That's why the battery can deliver around 200 cold cranking amps. If you start drawing more than around 30amps then you will not be topping up the battery to compensate for the initial losses during start-up. If anyone is worried, just invest a couple of quid in the DVM linked to above. If the display drops below 13V when you are riding it's time to switch off something.
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200 watts would give you about 15 amps, which is quite a bit to play with. I do like watching a volt meter to avoid running the battery down. I remember with less power, we used to turn the grips and jacket off at the last 20 minutes of the ride to ensure the battery got charged up.
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