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Fault Code 59


Brick

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I felt my 2015 FJ09 was due for a valve check so I ordered the gasket, spark plugs and an air filter. I have almost 15,000 miles on the bike.


Before I could take it apart to perform the check I went to start it and it showed the engine light and Code 59 and wouldn't start. Well in the Yamaha manual this says, Throttle position sensor open or short... something like that. A friend and I took it apart checked the valves = all OK and put it back together. While it was open I took the connector off the Throttle position sensor and re-seated it. NO code but it wouldn't start. Cranked but acted like no spark. I could hear the fuel injection loading fuel.



So not having the Yamaha computer I took it to a Yamaha dealer in Statesville, NC. They called and said it was ready. Here is what they said they did.



Code 59, values incorrect on TGPS, Reset values on TPS and cleared Code. (I think the "G" in the first TGPS was a typo)


They way they talked there was NO values in the TPS... I think the values would be in the computer but that's beside the point. The TPS as far as I know is only a rheostat.



The weather here has not been riding weather but I may get it out tomorrow, Sunday.


Anyone else have anything like this? How do the values get removed from there without anything else?



Mostly curious.


I just want to ride it. I'm a lot more used to working on older bikes that don't have all the electronics. However, I sure enjoy riding the newer stuff WITH all the electronics. :)



Brick

 

Brick
2015 Yamaha FJ-09 "Red Molly"
2014 Yamaha Super Tenere' ES
1999 Suzuki SV650

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I felt my 2015 FJ09 was due for a valve check so I ordered the gasket, spark plugs and an air filter. I have almost 15,000 miles on the bike.

Before I could take it apart to perform the check I went to start it and it showed the engine light and Code 59 and wouldn't start. Well in the Yamaha manual this says, Throttle position sensor open or short... something like that. A friend and I took it apart checked the valves = all OK and put it back together. While it was open I took the connector off the Throttle position sensor and re-seated it. NO code but it wouldn't start. Cranked but acted like no spark. I could hear the fuel injection loading fuel.



So not having the Yamaha computer I took it to a Yamaha dealer in Statesville, NC. They called and said it was ready. Here is what they said they did.



Code 59, values incorrect on TGPS, Reset values on TPS and cleared Code. (I think the "G" in the first TGPS was a typo)


They way they talked there was NO values in the TPS... I think the values would be in the computer but that's beside the point. The TPS as far as I know is only a rheostat.



The weather here has not been riding weather but I may get it out tomorrow, Sunday.


Anyone else have anything like this? How do the values get removed from there without anything else?



Mostly curious.


I just want to ride it. I'm a lot more used to working on older bikes that don't have all the electronics. However, I sure enjoy riding the newer stuff WITH all the electronics. smiley.png



Brick


There's no way that the ECM "forgets" what the TPS indicates - The ECM either "sees" values from the TPS/APS sensors or it doesn't. Meaning, the sensor is working, connected and sending back a reference voltage, or it doesn't. 
Remember that the ECM only reads 2 reference voltages, usually less than 5v. The ECM provides a 5v reference signal, and a ground. Very simple 4 wire circuit.
 
If you didn't loosen the safety Torx screws that attach the APS near the stepper motor where the throttle cable connects, AND/OR you didn't loosen the safety Torx screws that attach the TPS to the end of the throttle body assy, then there is no way that the factory position of those sensors changed.
 
Which leaves a bent pin, incorrect connected connector, or poorly seated connector on one of the sensors, or a blown fuse. That's it.
 
Don't get caught up too much on the wording of the repair order, it sounds as if whoever typed in the info from the Technician didn't write it in such a way that made sense.
 
If it runs fine now, forget about it. And be careful to label connectors next time you disconnect them, or take a picture with your phone so you don't mix anything up (in case that was the cause of the issue)
 
-Skip
 
 
 
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