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The FJ09 has been extremely sensitive to chain tension and lubrication in my experience, even a mildly dry or over tightened chain leads to crap shifting and lots of noise.

Call me crazy but I found this engine really easy to turn over via 14mm Allen wrench from the left side access window in the engine.. I didn’t remove plugs or anything. Maybe low compression 😂 or I’m used to car engines.

Yeah it really does, that’s what is strange. The only difference is now I don’t get the intermittent death rattle from the cam chain. I figure theres no way to be off a tooth and have it run this well. my favorite past time is worrying about my machines so that’s something 😃 I’ll update with finding when I check timing.

That’s what I feared, I have a valve check coming up I’ll do it ASAP.

Hi gents, I installed an APE CCT on my 2015 FJ09 this weekend. When I removed the side cover to begin the process, dowel #13 shown in the photo came out with the side cover. It didn’t make any popping noise and went back in fine. I jammed something between the guide and engine before removing the tensioner but it didn’t seem to need it, the chain was relatively slack. All back together and the bike runs fine. Is is possible I skipped a tooth on the cam chain? I don’t see how I could’ve kept tension on the chain without that dowel as the entire guide pivots on it. Thoughts?

It’s currently pretty chewed up (Elsinore side) and closed periodically for repair. I suggest checking closures before riding and keeping things mellow on the Elsinore side of the highway until they complete construction.

I used an aftermarket sprocket to replace the OEM so perhaps that is why the punch marks did not line up upon replacement

I always don't always follow manufacturer recommendations/instructions because assuming is much quicker and easier 😀 For the past month I had a worsening slop in my drivetrain, it wasn't severe but just annoying enough to cause notchy shifting and odd feel when taking off from a light or shifting. Being me, I assumed it was a cracked hub basket, glazed clutch plates, the works. Chain lube and adjusting didn't help much. 7000 miles ago when changing my chain and sprockets I had confidently re-used the countershaft sprocket nut despite the Yamaha FJ-09 manual warning me not to, for I knew it was because Yamaha wanted to sell me a new $16.99 nut. The original punch marks ended up being 45 degrees or so away from the location the new punch marks would go so I figured no foul. Well today I checked and it was loose, tightened it back up and all issues disappeared. Lesson learned. To be kind to future members using search here are some front sprocket/countershaft sprocket details: 30mm socket to remove/install the nut The nut is right hand threaded, not reverse threaded Torque for install is 95nm (manual says lube with engine oil) Countershaft nut part number is 90179-22018-00

Results are in: no evidence of fuel, coolant, or water contamination. No accelerated wear or excess metals etc. Blackstone says the oil looks normal. Now I get to think about this over the weekend…I’ll be thinking about anti drain back valves in oil filters and oil shear. For now though it’s safe to say this has all been due to slight mistakes in filling and reading the engine oil. Thanks all!

Serious question: can you lane split on a Niken? Are they wider overall than a standard Tracer?

Awesome, thanks Skip!

If the results show high coolant % I am confident in my ability to identify the cause (oil cooler, head gasket, water pump) if the results show high fuel % I would like to first test the injectors. Does anyone know if I can just pull the rail with injectors still installed and prime the fuel pump to look for leakage? Or do I need to have them tested off of the bike? This is still just speculation until oil sample results come in, thanks everyone for the input so far.

Update: oil sample is on its way to the lab now. Rode some miles over the weekend, coolant level still exactly where it was 2,000 miles ago. No milkshake look in oil. No oil in radiator. Oil level seemed to stay steady A few oil lab companies online make note that fuel in oil usually burns off when the engine is brought to temp. More things to think about til the results come back. Until then….

Sorry I meant to say 10 & 17 were the only 2 (that needed to be replaced) that would allow oil/coolant cross contamination.

You are supposed to change a few seals when pulling the pump, 17 & 10 in the drawing attached. I did not change them. I get the logic but if this is the issue I’d be really shocked that the oil looks/smells as normal as it does while taking on the amount of coolant needed to raise the oil level. Blackstone will check coolant % when they get my sample as well. edit again: coolant level has not changed in the ~2000 miles since it was changed

I haven’t ruled out head gasket (or internal wp leak) just yet. I have to say though the oil does not look or smell like it has coolant in it. I got the sample cup for Blackstone labs today so that’s off for results shortly. Plugs will be changed or inspected this weekend if I get the time. Thanks again to everyone for the input. quick edit: I have had the collected oil sample from before sitting for a week in a hot garage and no separation has occurred. I’d imagine coolant and maybe fuel would separate after a week but I could be wrong.

Update: the oil level appears to be rising again. Slowly but surely. Same temp and position reads higher and higher til today there is no bubble at top of sight glass. I am pulling plugs this weekend to look for fouling or other evidence of injector issues. Blackstone labs test cup still has not arrived. Stay tuned.

Update - I changed the (cold) oil on lunch today, no rainbow sheen in sunlight, no excess fuel smell, no abnormal metal or particles in the oil. I saved half a quart in a clean glass jar to send to Blackstone labs for analysis. I will keep an eye on levels until further notice. Also going to do some research on levels variation of oil level in sight glass on this bike. Fingers crossed its just me being neurotic as per usual.

Hi everyone, I noticed my oil level was slightly over the “full” mark a week ago. I thought maybe it was just an overfilling mistake from an oil change about 2,000 miles ago. I drained a little bit to get it to a normal level and kept an eye on it since. It’s begun to rise slightly again. I suspect fuel is getting into the oil. Any suggestions on repair? I do not know how to test fuel injectors. Can I look at plugs and assume fouled plug is the leaky injector? I’m going to change the oil later today to see if I can confirm there is fuel in it. Hard to tell used oil and fuel smell pretty similar. thanks

Update: road trip complete, approximately 1200 miles done over the weekend. I did it on the stock water pump and seals only changed the coolant. No leaking. I plan to keep it the way it is until something changes. I learned that I want to flash the ECU to lower the fan temp and remove the ridiculous 115mph speed limiter. cheers

Thanks everyone for the advice. Since I am alert but not alarmed everything went back together with new coolant for now until I decide to repair or replace. No signs of leaking on 50 or so miles since. Fortunately the pump is easily accessed on this bike. I will follow up in the coming days with an update. @bwringer I do have a long ride planned next week so that is a factor. Thanks for the tips.

Hi everyone, 2015 FJ-09 with 14k miles. Likely original coolant as well. I searched for an answer on this and other -09 forums with no clear answer. While performing an oil change yesterday I found evidence of coolant weeping or leaking from the weep hole at the bottom of the water pump (in the form of very distinct white dried residue from coolant). Coolant reservoir and radiator were full, no measurable loss in the 5k miles I’ve owned it) I removed the water pump to confirm this is where the coolant was leaking (it was, circled in Orange in attached photo) How to repair? I assume the mechanical seal (#7, pn 5VK-12438-00-00) is the culprit. Now my questions. Obviously I’d like to avoid replacing the entire pump as it’s pricey ($170). 1. Can I replace the mechanical seal (5VK-12438-00-00) only without special tools? If the bearing doesn’t require a hydraulic press to remove I’m sure I can get it off without damaging the shaft. 2. Is there risk that the shaft is the culprit and not the seal? 3. Is some weeping normal? It’s possible the coolant residue was there since the bike was bought by me. Any risk in just keeping an eye on it? I can buy a new water pump (and may do so) for peace of mind but if it’s not required I’d rather not.

I found that replacing the stock handguards with a set from a late model KTM greatly improved the high speed stability. With the stock handguards I experienced a decent shake above 90mph. YMMV