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The FJ09 has been extremely sensitive to chain tension and lubrication in my experience, even a mildly dry or over tightened chain leads to crap shifting and lots of noise.

Call me crazy but I found this engine really easy to turn over via 14mm Allen wrench from the left side access window in the engine.. I didn’t remove plugs or anything. Maybe low compression 😂 or I’m used to car engines.

Yeah it really does, that’s what is strange. The only difference is now I don’t get the intermittent death rattle from the cam chain. I figure theres no way to be off a tooth and have it run this well. my favorite past time is worrying about my machines so that’s something 😃 I’ll update with finding when I check timing.

That’s what I feared, I have a valve check coming up I’ll do it ASAP.

Hi gents, I installed an APE CCT on my 2015 FJ09 this weekend. When I removed the side cover to begin the process, dowel #13 shown in the photo came out with the side cover. It didn’t make any popping noise and went back in fine. I jammed something between the guide and engine before removing the tensioner but it didn’t seem to need it, the chain was relatively slack. All back together and the bike runs fine. Is is possible I skipped a tooth on the cam chain? I don’t see how I could’ve kept tension on the chain without that dowel as the entire guide pivots on it. Thoughts?

It’s currently pretty chewed up (Elsinore side) and closed periodically for repair. I suggest checking closures before riding and keeping things mellow on the Elsinore side of the highway until they complete construction.

I used an aftermarket sprocket to replace the OEM so perhaps that is why the punch marks did not line up upon replacement

I always don't always follow manufacturer recommendations/instructions because assuming is much quicker and easier 😀 For the past month I had a worsening slop in my drivetrain, it wasn't severe but just annoying enough to cause notchy shifting and odd feel when taking off from a light or shifting. Being me, I assumed it was a cracked hub basket, glazed clutch plates, the works. Chain lube and adjusting didn't help much. 7000 miles ago when changing my chain and sprockets I had confidently re-used the countershaft sprocket nut despite the Yamaha FJ-09 manual warning me not to, for I knew it was because Yamaha wanted to sell me a new $16.99 nut. The original punch marks ended up being 45 degrees or so away from the location the new punch marks would go so I figured no foul. Well today I checked and it was loose, tightened it back up and all issues disappeared. Lesson learned. To be kind to future members using search here are some front sprocket/countershaft sprocket details: 30mm socket to remove/install the nut The nut is right hand threaded, not reverse threaded Torque for install is 95nm (manual says lube with engine oil) Countershaft nut part number is 90179-22018-00

Results are in: no evidence of fuel, coolant, or water contamination. No accelerated wear or excess metals etc. Blackstone says the oil looks normal. Now I get to think about this over the weekend…I’ll be thinking about anti drain back valves in oil filters and oil shear. For now though it’s safe to say this has all been due to slight mistakes in filling and reading the engine oil. Thanks all!

Serious question: can you lane split on a Niken? Are they wider overall than a standard Tracer?

Awesome, thanks Skip!

If the results show high coolant % I am confident in my ability to identify the cause (oil cooler, head gasket, water pump) if the results show high fuel % I would like to first test the injectors. Does anyone know if I can just pull the rail with injectors still installed and prime the fuel pump to look for leakage? Or do I need to have them tested off of the bike? This is still just speculation until oil sample results come in, thanks everyone for the input so far.

Update: oil sample is on its way to the lab now. Rode some miles over the weekend, coolant level still exactly where it was 2,000 miles ago. No milkshake look in oil. No oil in radiator. Oil level seemed to stay steady A few oil lab companies online make note that fuel in oil usually burns off when the engine is brought to temp. More things to think about til the results come back. Until then….

Sorry I meant to say 10 & 17 were the only 2 (that needed to be replaced) that would allow oil/coolant cross contamination.

You are supposed to change a few seals when pulling the pump, 17 & 10 in the drawing attached. I did not change them. I get the logic but if this is the issue I’d be really shocked that the oil looks/smells as normal as it does while taking on the amount of coolant needed to raise the oil level. Blackstone will check coolant % when they get my sample as well. edit again: coolant level has not changed in the ~2000 miles since it was changed