hammer

https://youtu.be/Y1En6FKd5Pk

I have to think of this whenever I see an accident. Some JB Weld and that case will be as good as new.

Subbed.

 I'm thinking about going this route, so it's good to read some 1st person accounts.

13 hours ago, alamode said:

Have you still got the front suspension?

Yup. Sitting and waiting for a new home.

Thanks for the trade Rick!

I enjoyed one of the "lighter" samples tonight. Tasty, and smooth.

Exhaust is gone. 

Hey gang,

  Suspension has gone to a well deserved user.

 Anyone want to buy 2011 Yamaha WR250R?

Thanks for the time.

Ryan does a good review:

Washed the bike today with car wash soap. Went for a ride, hosed it down, and went to town. Rinse then a towel dry and it's all good. Ran the engine for about 5-10 mins and put her away....

I'm interested in the Yamaclean and checked it out last night. Its says to mix 1:1 and pressure spray it on. Is this accurate (I know it is because it says it is but...) Or can you spray and soak it on without the pressure washer like the S1000?

 As it's supposed to be 15c here this weekend, that's warm enough to have the first wash and ride of the season.

Oh, ok, I think I got where you're coming from now. You are trying to line up the two pieces together, hence the axel...

 I would suggest that you don't worry about lining up the bracket. If the caliper is tapped properly, it will (should) guide itself home. Do you have a proper tap set?

18 minutes ago, jthayer09 said:

I just did a sprocket and chain swap and ran into this exact problem. @betoney pointed me to this thread and the cross threading of the caliper mount bolt was also my problem, tapped the thread and was good to go. Thank you @hammer for posting your issue and thanks for everyone who contributed in this thread.

Couple of things:

Is there any worry about the threads being weaker? Should I worry about the bolt coming loose? At $166 for the caliper assembly on PartZilla is it worth just replacing the whole thing for peace of mind?

Also, I was unable to properly thread the bolt while the bracket and caliper were on the bike. I could not for the life of me line up the bracket that receives the bolt properly with the caliper, every time I would start to thread it would cross. I had to take the axle out to get the bracket out of the bike, then I was able to line everything up. I then reinstalled the bracket with the caliper on it back on the axle. Does anyone else have difficulty threading the caliper bolt while it is mounted?

Thanks!

You do not need to remove the axel to get the caliper off...I should know (eyeroll). Remove the two mounting bolts and brake line. I am assuming that you may not have a proper table to work on, but that's what you want/need, ideally with a vise. Take over the kitchen if you have too! You want to line the bolt with the bracket. The bolt needs to sit flush on the caliper. Any deviation will produce undesireable results. The rear guide will do it's own thing if you tap properly. I used some locktite when reinstalling. Are you using a proper tap and die set, or just using the bolt with some English on it to straighten it out.

 If you're lacking the proper tools, it might just be easier to buy a replacement caliper.

Just got back from a spirited ride, and besides my speedo and GPS fighting about the proper speed (bike shows +7km faster than GPS at highway / +5km at city speeds), the bike ran top notch and stopped without issue. Back brake is doing what it should, and nothing it shouldn't.

Thanks to all and especially Peter once again for all the help. Beers are on me!

On 6/4/2020 at 12:57 PM, trevinator said:

i think its how the caliper is mounted. either with a bent bolt or cross threaded bracket, or a bent bracket. either way, the pads should be sitting flush on the rotor, not just the top of the left side and bottom of the right side touching. that means the caliper is not parallel to the rotor somehow.

 So, a quick search shows Trevinator is the winner. It took Peter about 20mins to find the problem. After some tapping and reinstalling the caliper, the bike is going on maiden voyage this am.

 During my initial install I cross threaded the right caliper bolt. People had asked and I always said "no" as I was only looking at the male end. Peter shows up, quick assessment, and the female end was chewed up. Got out the tap set, he redid the threads, put it back on, bled again and everything is flush and square. Tire spins, whole brake pad grabs. 

 Supervisor isn't impressed with me...

The pic shows how much the bolt was off that it wouldn't mate flush with the caliper.

I would like to thank Peter for riding out and getting hands on, and everyone else who has helped and offered advice and guidance.

 Hopefully I won't need to post after my sun am ride to say anything bad happened!

 If anyone is ever in the Hamilton area of Ontario, feel free to stop in for your free beer.

I went with full ti exhaust. Sound is great under throttle, and won't wake the neighbours at 05:00.

 I agree. Suspension over exhaust.

But, if you're doing exhaust, pay once/cry once and get what you want.

22 minutes ago, FJ29ER said:

Bracket kind of looks like it's too low in the front. Like it's not mating with the swing arm correctly but could just be perspective. 

 

And the pin that holds the brake pads looks like it's grooved. Make sure that is prefectly smooth. 

 

But otherwise nothing really like askew

 

The front pin, which I never noticed before has flat spots on 3 sides which is weird.

12 minutes ago, FJ29ER said:

Make sure when you spin the wheel the rotor stays equal through the gap circled in red

Done and it's good

I was trying to get both sides, I am hoping that's why it looks off

Pedal depressed and piston pushed back by hand