howie333

5 hours ago, DT675 said:

My '17 has done this also a few times this past summer.  IMO I dont think its the ignition switch, I know 100% my key was full on.  I tried to establish a pattern because sometimes I do have it on a tender and sometimes I do not.  I went back and forth with monitoring it on the tender and not, and it would not repeat itself either way.  It hasn't done it now in the last several starts and I'm still on the same battery.  It's weird.

Well; It was the battery. It was a non yuasa battery, I ended up buying a yuasa equivalent, more $, same company. It's been almost a year and so far so good. They told me the chinese battery I 1st ordered should have lasted much longer, but I guess more$ means your getting quality, probably made in Taiwan/Japan.  

4 hours ago, texscottyd said:

No problems at all… just let the tuner know you’re keeping the stock exhaust as part of the remap.  

2WDW did this for my 2015 model, and it made a world of difference in the ridability of the bike (especially in A Mode).    Mine is stock exhaust, with AIS block off plates & the plumbing removed.   

Isn't the AIS used w/ the cat on a stock system ?

On 8/29/2023 at 4:31 PM, skipperT said:

Yes they made some mapping changes on the 17 models. 
 

don’t even worry about changing the air cleaner, the stock one works just fine with an aftermarket exhaust. 
-S

Will a remap give a problem to a stock exhaust w/ cat ?

I may use either Ivans or Vcyclenut for for remapping the ECU. Just not sure if a exhaust upgrade would be of any value if not needing to save weight or wanting to change sound, then may have to upgrade air filter, and if increased fuel could damage Cat.  

TNX... 

On 8/26/2023 at 4:30 PM, skipperT said:

Yes. 
I would leave the airbox and filter alone. There’s really no benefit to those mods unless it’s performed to the extreme and other changes are made to the engine. 
IMHO. 

-Skip

Wasn't the snatchy throttle problem w/ the 15 models fixed in the 17 models ? 

3 hours ago, johnmark101 said:

A good tuner will not only change the fuel and ignition maps with an ECU flash, but also turn off the AIS and fuel cut off.  If the new maps for fuel are richer than stock, (which they will most likely be) it would be a good idea to get rid of the catalytic converter as the richer fuel map could clog it up a bit over time.  Getting a full exhaust is not a bad idea.

OK; I kind of figured w/ new map; I'd be getting a richer fuel mixture. Which tuner and which full system exhaust would be recommended for similar noise level ? I'll have to weigh total cost and figure if will be worth the expense. Would turning off the AIS and fuel cut off be only if cat removed w/ aftermarket exhaust ?  

TNX... 

2 hours ago, jthayer09 said:

I had 2 Wheel Dyno Work's ECU flash on my 2015 FJ-09; benefits across the board:

Smoother throttle with better response
Cooler engine running temp (fans turn on earlier)
Top speed limiter removed
Smoother engine braking (this one was probably the largest difference)
Startup on A mode

As far as a quiet exhaust note the stock exhaust is going to be the quietest. However, I had the LeoVince LV1 full exhaust system with the DB killer in, and it was not much louder than stock but had a better bass sound that I found very pleasing.

So is exhaust sound the primary advantage to exchanging an exhaust system or mod on air box and such if increased HP performance is not the goal ?

TNX for reply...

2017 FJ-09

I'm researching any benefits for a remap of the stock ECU and additional suggestions sa. removing cat and IAS, and exhaust mods or replacement. I only notice snachy throttle at times, but may be other noticeable improvements not aware of. I prefer a quiet exhaust note.

Thank You... 

7 minutes ago, OZVFR said:

First of all, cst16 and cst19 are very close, and if anyone could tell the difference it would be a very slightly softer action of the forks. 
I have many times used lighter or heavier oil to change the fork feel, but only for slight changes. Valving changes are a better option for anything more substantial. 
Even though I would suggest sticking with installation instructions, I can’t see why having the cartridges on changed sides would make any difference whatsoever. 
Having the fork damping set at the shop is never going to be accurate, no matter the type or brand. 
They must always be adjusted by riding and how they feel to you for the way you ride. Specially forks, they are much harder to set up by just bouncing the bike compared to the rear shock. 
Front fork sag should always be set up for 1/3rd of travel, rear shock a bit less. 

Well said; Thank you. I read there was someone here that had a harsh ride, and posted a modification of there valving and fluid choice. It may not be for everyone's needs.  

 2017 - Fj-09

Will be replacing front tire soon, and was considering to change fluid in forks after some long mileage and time.  I originally purchased the Andreani cartridges from Fast Bike Industries set up for my weight and riding style. They were out of the recommended Ohlins 1309-0I w/ 19cSt, and instructed me to use the (Maxima 85\150 5W) approx. 16 cSt. at the time of installation, but since I've put some miles on this set up and always had uncertainty setting rebound and compression and    used a Motool for preload settings.  I talked w/ them recently, and they instructed me to set preload @ 30% trav.; Reb./comp. to 1-1/2 turns out together from bottom out and retorque triple clamps to 19nm top/17nm bottom.  They told me I cant set comp/rebound as other manufacturers (in shop); that can be set only from riding(seat of pants). Sort of confusing. I don't have Ohlins fluid yet, but at this time w/ a short ride hard to tell if better on rough roads or handling. Also; would there be much difference if compression/rebound cartridges are reversed (opposite Andreani instruction) in triple tree, comp/left and Reb/Right ? Should I use the recommended Ohlins fluid ? 

Thank You...

3 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

I would go with the Pit Bull.  Several years ago I had a Woodcraft and while nicely made it was a bit of a hassle to use on my CBR.  Close clearance to front fender and the pin was a tight fit so hard to remove.  When you really need it, it is very nice but the rest of the time it keeps dust off the floor.  

I'd go w/ the pitbull if I don't need to add boards to lift forks forks high enough to clear wheels on my FJ-09 or any other long forked bike sa. any adventure style bike.

54 minutes ago, duckie said:

Well, the boards makes it adjustable. This stand is also used on my other motorcycles. So the boards prevented having to buy one specfic for the Tracer.
 

Sometimes you just have to figure out ways to make things work. 

Well, I might just buy the best lift Amazon has to offer; and if it doesn't work ; I can return it. Either way, I'll call PitBull Monday to discuss. 

Would a single compound tire make more sense, since I'm not putting on highway miles, and mostly cornering to get a more even wear? Seems I'm wearing the soft compound down rather fast; also would their be a problem to mix tire brands sa. a Dunlop Sportmax 3 rear w/ a new Continental road attack 3 rear tire ? 

Thanks ...

1 hour ago, duckie said:

I had to to make two sets of two 2x6 boards screwed together, one on top of the other. They are long enough that the whole stand is on the boards when in use. 

for these prices; you'd think these lifts would fit correctly. it must be the fact adventure style bike w/ the longer forks add to this problem; but these lifts should be adjustable, if not; why not just buy a lift from Amazon if have to fabricate height to make work ?

I've tried stands from Amazon w/ no luck. On other bikes I've had to use a board and jig it up and in to make it work, but no luck w/ the 17 FJ-09. I sold the stand from Amazon , and am looking @ the Pitbull hybrid dual lift. $$. The Woodcraft is slightly cheaper. Which way to go ? 

TNX...

2 hours ago, betoney said:

When you say rebound screw is all the way out, I am assuming you mean that the rebound clicker is fully turned counter clock-wise? is this correct? 

If your rebound damping is set to fully open- meaning almost zero rebound hydraulic damping, you are basically riding the spring, when you press down on the front end it should rebound back up very quickly and feel bouncy.  If that isn't the case your fork leg could possibly be binding.  When your damping is correct and you press down and release it should move down and back up smoothly and controlled with no downward binding or stiction and not springing back or slowly dragging upward.

Yes right side cartridge screw turned counter clockwise.; It springs back quickly w/ no lag for adjustment after pushing down forks, but I'm pushing by myself w/ no help. Should my weight be on the bike and have helper push forks? Fast Bike Industries in Henderson NC assured me they installed the right springs and valving for my weight. There's only a few thousand miles on the fork oil.

2017 FJ-09

Under 5K miles on Dunlop Sportmax 3 front and rear. Tire pressure- 36 front/40rear. Rear tire is in great shape.  Andreani fork cartridges. Sonic rear shock. rider Sag set 44mm measured @ 35% fork travel using a Mototool to measure sag. 165 lbs. rider weight. Cartridge springs- listed @ 8.3 ; I ride semi aggresive cornering (east Tennessee).  I think my rebound screw is all way out, but barely once bounce back when forks pushed down and released. Compression is set @ mid range Still sort of stiff and semi hard on bumpy roads. Handles well thou. Why is my front tire doing this ? Scalloping or cupping ?

Thanks ...

12 hours ago, skipperT said:

 No sweat, Howie. Sometimes typing within the confines of this forum makes it harder to understand exactly what we’re trying to get across. Glad we could clarify and no, no bother at all! Sorry for my late reply. 

what I meant by “the chain being removed “ comment is that I wasn’t sure if you were asking if you bolted the cams into the head would they stay put and not rotate within the journals of the cylinder head. That’s what I was trying to answer. 

anywho, yes rest assured! That if you start with the crankshaft at the K mark, and Time first the Exhaust cam (while keeping tension on the camchain between the crank gear and the exhaust cam) with the punch mark on the cam lining up with the arrow on the camshaft “cap” and then Time the Intake cam and line it up as well, and then carefully torque down the caps in order and gradually in sequence. As long as everything is in Time when it’s all torqued down and the tensioner is installed correctly, then you will have timed the engine correctly and you’ll be good to go.

Cut the zip ties carefully off so they don’t fall down the camchain cavity and rotate slowly in the correct direction. If nothing jumps while you’re rotating then it will be fine. 

if it makes you feel any better, remember that when an engine is assembled it’s put together in this manner. Your are just resetting the baseline, so to speak. The instructions are written so that you CAN go back to the “baseline” and have a proper running engine.

-Skip
 

Thank You for replies and reassurance.  The hex/allen cam tensioner tool is not available and seems even a modified allen wrench may hit frame. I may cut tip, and weld a bolt head on. when all done I'll let you know how it went. sorry for past confusion.  

On 3/20/2023 at 3:37 PM, skipperT said:

Howie- if the engine is timed correctly, it will always be timed correctly. 

If you line up the K mark on the crank and time both camshafts correctly to the crank by utilizing the dots on the cams and install the tensioner and all those things are relative to one another connected by chain and under tension via the cam chain tensioner then they will stay that way. 

if the chain is removed then no, they may or may not stay where you put them if you secure the camshafts by bolting down the cam carriers  

follow the book!!!!

I’m not trying to be an ass here, but are you sure you are comfortable with this procedure and know what you’re doing?

if not then seek the help of a pro.  Don’t try to piece it together with help from the ‘Net because you could destroy many things. I’ve had interactions with you before on this forum, Howie and maybe English isn’t your first language(?). Possibly what I’m trying to type to you isn’t making sense… but I don’t know how much more clear to make this…

-S

 

Following Manual description of cam removal and Installation is IF crank doesn't move from K mark during procedure unless I misread. Since I moved the crank; I just wanted cam install after valve shim exchange to be safe. I see when crank is turned 360deg a few times; piston location is the same  corresponding to the K mark on crank. Because there's a 2:1 ratio between crank and cams; I wanted to be reassured cams will be in correct location as long as punch/cap marks line up and wont change even if another revolution is done on crank and risk piston/valve interaction. I've done these procedures on parallel twin 180deg cranks; no problem.  I'm not sure what you meant "if chain is removed may not stay where I put them when caps are installed". I know when cams are in place; they must be aligned and should be tie wrapped on sprocket till tensioner is installed, then carefully spin several times to verify all marks are correct and no piston/valve interaction. I thought that is what I've been asking earlier. Anything I'm missing ?  

On 3/20/2023 at 12:05 PM, skipperT said:

No - do you have a service manual???

make sure you read the Cam installation section carefully. You DO NOT install the cams at TDC cyl 1!!!
 
measuring the valve clearances is a different crankshaft position then remove/install camshafts!

-S
 

On 3/20/2023 at 1:32 AM, skipperT said:

No, the crank turns 2 times for 1 full revolution of the camshafts. 
so in answer to your question, it is possible to have the K mark lined up on the magneto rotor and NOT see the mark on the camshafts line up with the mark on the cam carrier caps. If that happens, spin the crankshaft another 360 degrees. 

-Skip

On 3/18/2023 at 10:23 AM, skipperT said:

Loosen them up. .31 or .32mm will be fine. if the shim size puts you a bit over I wouldn’t sweat it, they’ll tighten up again. 
 

crank spins 360 degrees for 1/2 a camshaft rotation. Or another way to think about it is that the crank goes around 2x while the cams complete 1 revolution.

so yes, what the book calls the K mark will only be printed once on the magneto/rotor/flywheel or whatever you choose to call it. 
 

follow the book, makes sure the exhaust cam is installed first and that the chain is tight on that side between the crank and the ex cam gear. be careful with the tensioner, use light pressure in the foot of the tensioner while setting the installation position. 
 

  

42 minutes ago, skipperT said:

@howie333
242 blue, only use a small amt. you now know what a bitch it was to get those 2 screws out, so make sure you can get them out next time!

nothing on the center cap bolt; except the washer. Note the torque is only (I think) 5 or 6nm -MUCH lighter torque than the 2 Allen socket head bolts!

-S

Thanks; I doubt I'll be able to torque those 2 fastener bolts them anyway. I'll have to go by feel. 

Cam tensioner will be reinstalled soon , and not sure which Loctite to use on the 2 retaining bolts. manual just states loctite. Red 271 permanent; 272 hi temp; 277 hi strength, or 242 blue. existing locking agent is red, but I'd doubt its the permanent type. Also should blue 242 be put on center cap even though there's a gasket ?

Thank You...

I've already read how the intake and exhaust cams need to be pulled and tied to the timing chain while reinstalling to line up cam and cam cap marks. Should be no problem, but when cams were out; I was spinning crank while hand guiding cam chain a few times for testing and being curious, but careful, and need to know if the triangular mark in site window I used to remove cams is located every 360 deg. for cam alignment ( 1 full rotation or  every other rotation) ? I can probably test this by marking cam chain and rotate crank. If there's a difference, please explain where and how to set up for cam and cam cap alignment. Also I checked shims kind of early, and found exhaust valves similarly the same. I measured .254 mm gaps. I'm just under the recommended .26-.30 mm minimum. The shims were approx. 1.80mm. The 1.75's would bring it to just over .30mm, but leaving would keep it just under the .26 min.  I always heard it's better for shims be loose, but not sure where to go w/ this. Also; which Loctite is to used for the cam tensioner bolts; red 271 permanent; 272 hi temp; 277 hi strength, or 242 blue ?

please reply if can help. 

Thank You...