howie333

13 hours ago, JonnyB said:

I changed to a larger 14A battery after 4 years. Other than a small saving in weight and cost I can't see the point in staying with the standard size. It's like Yamaha specced for the bigger battery at the design stage, then saved a few quid, dollars etc. with a smaller battery and a foam spacer.

the larger battery is near 2 lbs heavier . that's a lot.

22 minutes ago, duckie said:

Handy little site…….https://www.electrosport.com/pages/technical-resources

Thanks; all conn. and stator good. load test proved bad battery. 

Well; I think I've got a choice of 2 batteries: The Scorpian YTZ14S, 11.2AH/230cca from Batterystuff, $70

or the XTREME from Battery plus, 11AH/ 210cca $90. I could also go w/The stock size OEM battery and is either 8.6 or 9.1 AH and 190cca.  The only extra load on bike are yamaha heated grips, a CB radio and a chain oiler.

Please help . TNX...

      Howie..  

7 hours ago, peteinpa said:

Hmmm...How do they know what bike it's going in.  You have an ST1300 right?

 Yea, well if on a future warrantee issue, they asked what bike I installed it in, I better know what bike the

 larger battery supposed to fit in !

6 hours ago, peteinpa said:

https://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYTZ10S.html

I've been using these for many years. Quick delivery and great life.  Just fully charge before first start.

I'll be putting this one in when the time comes.  Remove foam and a perfect fit.

https://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYTZ14S.html

Larger with more CCA.

Batterystuff only warrantees batteries listed for that bike. The YTZ14S is not covered. I would have to buy stock size and CCA; or take a chance on it; buy a( motocross) brand(same CCA) or a lithium type.  

1 hour ago, skipperT said:

20 V -AC is LOW for a stator output. 
was that measured at 5k RPM?

DC measurements from a stator are irrelevant. 

cheap batteries leave you stranded, IMHO. You get what you pay for… (many people here will disagree with that statement). Do what you will. 

.2-.5ohms of resistance is fine. This test doesn’t have to be spot-on resistance wise, it’s simply to see if the windings are intact. 

the short-to-ground test measurement on each stator wire to battery ground should be infinity/or OL depending on your VOM. The test is very important! If your stator output tests are perfect and high but you have a short to ground, then your charging won’t be adequate. 
 

ground wires should always be verified to be tight and clean as well. the FJ/MT have a smaller ground connector that needs to be connected just down from the battery negative connection  

I’m adding these notes here for anyone who comes across this thread down the road. Howie’s testing was incomplete. However a battery replacement is still a wise call at this point. 

Let us know how you make out,

-Skip

Thanks for reply. i'll do a load test on battery 1st, Battery plus has the Xtreme AGM powersport battery for just under $80, Not sure, but I may go with larger battery. i didnt test A/C output @ 5K rpm's, but will do and get back to you. The grounds are tight and good shape @ different locations, and no shorts to GND. Thank you !   

10 minutes ago, iamthedruman said:

Can confirm YTZ12S will fit. Adds about 20 CCAs. Startup is a bit zippier. About same size as oem. Remove foam spacer as suggested.

Yuasa OEM $211, or Mighty Max equivalent $33 ?? 

1 hour ago, betoney said:

Just my opinion but I wouldn't waste my time and energy, just get a new battery and be done with it.  Last thing you want to do is get a few hours (or days) away from home and be stuck with a dead bike. 

Also I highly recommend a voltage meter of some sort to be able to tell battery voltage at a moments notice.

Thanks for reply; I also read that a larger battery will fit (wide) if foam spacer is removed. not sure if needed.  

update: put some loads on; caused battery to die. battery sat fully charged since last night. put battery on charge since, and has been charging for quite a while now. guessing it was defective battery. I did test output voltage on stator @ 20V A/C on all combinations. 14V d/c stator output worried me it may be low. It should have been slightly higher considering some small loads I use. I'll bring battery to a local auto store  to put load across battery to know for sure. Where the best place to buy new battery ? local or internet store ?

 TNX. Howie

41 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Dropping down 2V on startup seems very low, I've never seen anything below 11VDC but my battery is only 2 years old.

also there are misc. load sa. lights, CB radio, chain oiler, heated grips; may need charging to be optimum. 

5 minutes ago, howie333 said:

battery fully charged when tested

unfortunately, there are no A/C voltage specs for this stator in the service manual. do you have them ?

1 minute ago, howie333 said:

Just edited post , please read tnx

 

battery fully charged when tested

34 minutes ago, skipperT said:

Your battery sounds weak. Remember that the charging system output tests should be measured with a fully charged, healthy battery in order to get the spec you read in the book, but didn’t see on your particular bike. 
These bikes are battery sensitive, meaning 12.5 isn’t enough to get a reliable start. 
 

Another test is to turn the key on, and let it stay on for 30 seconds, and THEN measure the voltage at the battery terminals (engine off). It should be above 12 volts, usually 12.2-12.4 or so. less? Battery is discharged or on its way out. 

reg/rec is mounted under subframe, IIRC.

the other stator tests most people miss, are short to ground on each of the 3 stator wires, and an AC Voltage output test across each of the 3 legs at 5k RPM. 

-Skip

Just edited post , please read tnx

17 FJ-09, -12k miles

Battery wouldn't start engine 1st time. The battery read approx. 12.5V;  2V drop @ startup ;seem right, but Just 13.9-14V from idle to 5K rpm's. I don't know what else to check but the resistance of the stator leads.  Manual states .152-.228 ohms (I assume not running). 2 meters 2 different readings but consistant. .3-.5 ohms.  Could that be too much resistance ?  I assume regulator is OK, but not sure. Manual states stator output should be 14.3-14.7 voltsDC.  Dealer said just less than 15V.  Also i checked short to ground, and found good, no shorts to ground on any leads. 

Any help appreciated;

Howie...

17 hours ago, petshark said:

I also have those tires on my new-to-me tracer and I do not trust them in the wet.

Opinions on this tire tend to be very polarized. They have a very long life and seem to be excellent value for commuters who don't push the bike or perhaps also for very experienced riders who don't mind their tire slipping and sliding on anything but perfect asphalt. This is not just my opinion, there's lots of reports to be found on the web and when I had my suspension set up last week, the tuner also said the same thing from experience; "take forever to warm up, too rigid, no grip, never again".

I don't want to take anything away from the other advice here as it all is relevant, but because nobody mentions the bad rep these tires have for some of us, I just wanted to throw that in there. I wasn't there but there is a good chance that you would not have slipped on tires like a pilot road or something.

17 hours ago, petshark said:

I also have those tires on my new-to-me tracer and I do not trust them in the wet.

Opinions on this tire tend to be very polarized. They have a very long life and seem to be excellent value for commuters who don't push the bike or perhaps also for very experienced riders who don't mind their tire slipping and sliding on anything but perfect asphalt. This is not just my opinion, there's lots of reports to be found on the web and when I had my suspension set up last week, the tuner also said the same thing from experience; "take forever to warm up, too rigid, no grip, never again".

I don't want to take anything away from the other advice here as it all is relevant, but because nobody mentions the bad rep these tires have for some of us, I just wanted to throw that in there. I wasn't there but there is a good chance that you would not have slipped on tires like a pilot road or something.

I used to use the Michelin PR4's on my Ninja 650 w/ no problem; but also; lower power @ rear wheel. I may have to lose the fear of dropping the bike now in iffy turns. I may have to put some miles on to get my confidence back.  

9 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

WOW glad you saved it!  I do a lot of race photography and having the back step out leads to some really scary moment for those who save it.  Had a 2012 CBR600RR and then a 2014 ZX6R 636 ABS, relative to the Tracer GT they didn't have the low and midrange torque.  Between the ZX6R and the Tracer GT I had a BMW F800GT which didn't have TC but not so much power either.  It wasn't so good for my habits as I could get away with more.  I've approached the Tracer GT carefully after reading lots of posts about bad suspension and bad OEM tires.  For me it has been a well behaved bike but I always respect the road particularly wet road surfaces.  Have spun up the rear a couple of times on other bikes in the wet but fortunately was going mostly straight.  My BMW was probably closer to your Ninja 650 and there is a difference in the midrange power of the Tracer GT.  

I see you are from eastern TN.  A few years ago I was riding up to see my mom in Chattanooga and took Suck Creek Road (?) over Signal Mountain from Dunlap TN.  At the foot of the mountain there is a near 180 degree turn.  Was on my CBR600RR and the road was wet so I slowed way down (or so I thought) and was tiptoeing thru the turn as a group of Harleys were going the other direction.  LOL the back stepped out a little bit and all I could think was please don't drop this bike in front of those Harleys.  When I went back and looked at the GoPro video I was surprised at how much lean I did have when I thought I was going slow.  a couple of months later went back over that road in the dry - a fantastic road and had lots of fun.  

Yea, Happened 1st where it's really tricky not to slip in wet on Montvale road heading toward Top of the world and Foot Hills Parkway. Real hairpins, bad esp. coming down off mountain !  You can get it both accel and decel.

5 hours ago, nhchris said:

You obviously have good mechanical skills since you saved the bike and yourself from a high side.  Good work!

You don't mention if you were braking, accelerating or leaning hard.  All of which impact traction.  I don't think you were trail braking since that would effect front wheel behavior.  So let's assume you were rear braking with either the brake itself or more likely using engine braking.

My FJ exhibits A LOT of engine brake force when the throttle is quickly closed. I'm not sure if this is a triple thing or not, but my heavier ST V4 did nor engine brake nearly as much as the FJ.

So, if you trail-braked into the corner semi-hot, leaned over and chopped the throttle shut, it is possible that you exceeded the traction available to the the rear tire.

Here's a short article and pie chart that describes the forces at work during cornering.

Finally, there is always a risk in cornering posed by the road ahead that you can't see. I often remember this in corner when I am overdriving my sight lines. Then I think, "Gee, I hope there ain't a school bus or trucked stopped around this bend!"  So far, been lucky. 

Thanks for replies; I didn't brake before or after incident and rarely do in turns , but accelerated, probably too hard, not gradual enough. I'm used to the power of my Ninja 650, and still not the added power of that triple motor of the FJ. I'll have to be more careful. It scared me enough to shorted that ride. I have been riding since 1973. This FJ has more low end power than I'm used to even after riding it over 3 years. At 5'9"; the bike is slightly taller than I'd like, but manageable. tougher w/ full tank.

       Thanks again ! Howie...

20 hours ago, Lone Wolf said:

Were you braking when lost traction?  Accelerating? Gun it just before lost traction?

I was acceleration thru turn while counter steering and some lean. I'll have to go back and inspect that road condition. That bike does have great low end torque though that could pull out from under you. If not sure of road conditions; probably better to just ride in B mode and full traction control . Thanks for replies...

17 FJ-09;

last time went for local ride; roads mostly dry; temp was 61deg, and no freeze earlier that day or day before. I'm riding semi aggressively in the turns as I usually do here in eastern TN.; and suddenly the rear wheel slid out under me; had to fight from dropping the bike as it slid across roadway. I know my ABS was on, (not sure which mode), there was water in various places a it may have rained overnight, but no gravel or sand. My tires are the Dunlop Sportmax Roadsmarts and in good condition and  warmed up.  I've not had this happen to me in the life of these tires. I rode in c or ave. riding mode. Should I need to use B mode or change riding style if any water is suspect in my rides ? Thank God it wasn't my front tire !  

        Thanks;

       Please reply...

Sorry; I meant 2017. Not sure if a narrower width would be better in any way with the new Tracer bars ? Are there any after market bars that would be a better choice ? TNX. 

07 fj-09

I may have bent my handlebars to point of replacement from a fall. My question is should I replace w/ 07 originals, newer narrower Tracer bars, or other replacements. Are there recommendations ?

                                                                                                                                                                     Please reply, tnx Howie.....