Posted Tuesday at 05:23 PM (edited)
This is my first time experiencing this problem, but many others have.
My 2015 with the bottom drain plug finely caught up with me. was getting fuel about 200 mile from home, in the pouring rain, misjudged a little step down, bottom of bike just barley touched, just enough to feel, pulled back under fuel pump area and inspect. After about 2 minutes, saw that one little drop of oil. Rented an U-Haul 5X9 trailer and trailered the bike 200 miles to home. So the good part is, caught it as soon as it happened.
Call the dealer where I purchased the bike, spoke with service Manager and explained the bottom drain design error and Yamaha attempted to correct the problem with a redesigned drain that was located on the side.
Taking that into consideration, would he provide a discount on the parts needed to make the repairs.
After getting pricing from local dealer, looks like to me the pricing they offered was retail. based that on a Yamaha Parts web site that was offering parts at a 40 % discount. When I added up the web parts cost and added about 40% to it, it was near what the dealer quoted me.
Needless to say, I was a little miffed that the dealer didn't appear to offer any discount. The next time I am close by, I'll stop in and ask to speak to the Dealer Manager, only fair to let him know they have lost a customer and I won't rely on them for new bike sales, parts, or service.
I was aware of the Mazda mod, but felt consider I ride solo and am cautious about clearance, I could avoid hitting something. Which was not the case. Remember, the bump was so light, I barely felt it.
For those of you that might want to switch to a side drain pan, below is a part list I ordered. The online part number page showed the new part # for the pan and also a new part # for the 15 screws to mount. I was not able to tell if the screws for the new pan was longer or shorter, so I ordered them also.
. .Gasket - These are the crush washers that go on the drain plug
Item #214-11198-01-00 $1.60 3 $4.80
Gasket, Exhaust Pipe - Be sure an order these, crush washers for exhaust headers.
Item #4FM-14613-00-00 $5.15 3 $15.45
Element Assy, Oil Cleaner - This is the oil filter
Options: Old Sku: 5GH-13440-50-00
Item #5GH-13440-60-00 $8.08 1 $8.08
. .O-Ring - This is the O-ring that goes on the oil level switch located on bottom of pan. One is all that is needed.
Item #5VY-8A8E0-00-00 $4.42 2 $8.84
. Plug, Straight Screw - This is the drain plug, not needed, it is included with the Strainer Cover Assy, that we call the oil pan
Item #90340-14132-00 $5.88 1 $5.88
Bolt, Hexagon Socket Head - Shame on Yamaha here, when ordering the updated pan, it showed updated part numbers for the 15 bolt that attach the pan, concerned they might be a different length, I ordered a complete set, the only difference is the new one have the heard painted black, I'm returning these.
Options: Old Sku: 91312-06025-00
Item #91317-06025-00 $1.90 15 $28.50
Strainer Cover Assy
Options: Old Sku: 1RC-13400-00-00
Item #B56-13400-10-00 $131.45 1 $131.45
Gasket, Strainer Cover
Options: Old Sku: 1RC-13414-00-00
Item #BD5-13414-00-00 $11.74 1 $11.74
Order Total: $238.23
Learned a few things during the install,
As you know, there is a revised part # for the pan with the side drain, it also showed a revised part # for the 15 screws that attach it. I purchased just in case there was a length difference. End up the only difference was the color of the head of the screw, it was black, so I'll be returning these.
Also, someone mention that the drain plug was included with the pan, and that was correct.
The pan replacement is fairly straight forward, I did take a few photos of the process. It can be done with bike on side stand if you don't mind laying on the floor for a few hours. I used a couple on exercise mats to lay on.
Picture of new pan.
Center stand needs to be removed, the spring was a bit of a challenge to get off. Used a block of wood to brace up the brake lever and used a screwdriver to remove. The nut for the bolt on the center stand is welded on the back side, so just unscrew the bolt, one on each side.
Removed screws holding wiring harness, was planning to disconnect the plug, but it was not giving up easy, so unscrewed the O2 sensor, there was enough slack in the harness that it didn't twist the wires too much. I used high temp anti seize compound on the threads during the reinstall. Remember to put 5 of 6 twist counterclockwise before reinstalling so you don't end up with twisted wires.
Other than the header bolts, exhaust has two bolts at the rear, one on each side. nut is welded, so just unscrew the bolts. Be sure to replace the 3 crush washers and step torque to 14 foot lbs., way too much work to take a chance on a leak. I used two, 2X4 Boards, one flat and one edge ways under the muffler to support it while removing.
Putting the spring back on the center stand was a challenge also, here is what I came up with that worked, in retrospect, this would have been a better way to remove the spring.
Photos of cracked pan,
In the photo below, you can tell the contact was just high enough to give it a bump, Did not strike the leading edge of the deflector
This was posted in the General Discussion section, below are some tips posted by other member, hopefully I can copy the information over so it will give the member credit for their suggestions.
These also work well for springs.
For anyone needing to remove and replace springs, a Spring Puller Tool is worth its weight in gold, it makes it a 2 second job. As a life long 2-Stroke dirt bike rider, I have always had one in my tool box for the expansion chamber springs.
Might add that If you have access to a rear stand you don't need to remove the center stand. The headers only need to be rotated out of the way, which can be done without pulling the cat through the center stand.
When dealing with springs and no spring tool there's the penny trick too. Coins/washers/etc inserted between coils.
This leads to a question, was looking ay skid pans. Anyone have any suggestions?
Higdonion Cages... 2 or 3 different styles of lower cages and an upper cage option... He just released a newer update design also...
The @higdonion model is the way to go. His revised guard is rock solid, gets the job done and looks great. Plus, he supports this forum in many ways.
Link to General Discussion