b12ty

PICS? !! Ty

Ack, that sucks, who would have known by looking at it that they were 1/2" different. I didn't need to remove my center stand, BUT... I have the low profile oil drain plug installed. Makes all the difference. Carry on, good luck. Ty

JASO MA2, good enough for me! Ty

Looking good, sound clips soon I hope! Ty

Aha! I figured there had to be some delay or the "on" signal would turn out the knuckleguard light. That's why the video is edited everytime it shows a different mode. I had a electronic flasher on another bike that would delay like that. Ended up putting in resistors instead to slow down the flash rate. Maybe not directly related to this, but was annoying. Not sure i'd like it to skip a cycle, when changing lanes for example. But considering it's not the main signal, and in front, maybe no biggie. I may just use mine wired up as signals only. ( would have to cover them with amber tape. ) Ty

I've got an electronics background, so it seemed pretty straight forward to me. There are 3 wires going to the stock front turn signals, ground, turn and running (12v constant). You can tap those directly using the 3 wires from the converter. Output from the converter is two wire, ground and constant (12v). Those two wires go to the LED knuckle guards. The converter will light the LEDs until the turn signals are activated at which time it will switch power on/off/on/off. Once the turn signals are extinguished, the power is constant again. What you are describing is a circuit that would turn OFF the lights when the bikes signals go on. ( thus being out of synch ) However, in the video the front and rear signals appear to be in synch with the LED lights. That has me baffled as to how that is accomplished. What am I missing? [video src=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sgr8fEPDsm8] Ty

I've got mine wired as running lights/turn signals and they won't pass inspection unless they are amber. I'll simply purchase some transparent self adhesive Amber/Orange vinyl. Might even leave the film on there if I like it better. link Ya, I was thinking of some film like that. But i'd rather have it molded in that color in the first place. Oh well, always something new! So yours came with the turn signal module then? Ty

NOOOOO!!!! I wonder if I can return mine. I wanted to set them up as turn signals anyways..... if they had included the module shown in the instructions. Ty

The important thing is progress, looking good! Ty

My tip is dark also. Ya, I figure I may be giving up a couple of HP on top, but it's worth it to make it sound exactly the way I want. Ty

as long as you don't overdo it and end up clutching your slippers Ty

I had my bike back on the dyno as I was curious to see the fueling without a remap. Other times I had not bothered, but I just wanted to check so I know where things are. With my modded exhaust the fueling is steady at 12.9-13.0 across the board from 4-11000. I put this in this thread because I noticed something when making a backup run without the probe stuffed in the outlet. It made 3hp less with the "wand" in the outlet than with it out. I think this confirms the bigger outlet is worth hp....but again, that was never the point of all of this in the beginning. Just passing along results. Hey, good to know our fueling is not messed up by doing this mod! Just out of curiosity, how big was the probe you stuck in your outlet? Enough to account for the difference of a 1.5" to 2" tip ya think? I did go ahead and make a DB killer of sorts. A tapered I.D. reducer bushing that fits inside the 2" tip. I then welded the original tip to that, and secured it inside the 2" pipe with a couple of screws that I threaded into the bushing. Softens the sound at idle, and doesn't sound so "boomy" inside my helmet. I'll have to get a pic of it sometime. Sounds great on the throttle still, and easily removable if I want. rodan, any plans to dyno your bike after you finish the exhaust? Ty

You can see my thread on Mazda plug install here. link Didn't have any problems, but as noted make sure you don't overtighten. Have yet to change oil again. Another thing it does help is if you ever have to remove the exhaust system. More clearance! Ty

Pics, or a link? Ty

Perforated tube going to run the whole length of the muffler, I assume? Then pack with fiberglass/steel wool? Ya, that does sound like a typical aftermarket pipe. Basically what I have on my other bike, and that sounds perfect. Looking forward to pics and sound clips. Ty

Well, as Lewis noted in one of his posts, he definitely noted a power increase with stock tip. As do I still, even with stock diameter insert. Front wheel still gets awful light where it didn't stock! Top end? Who knows without a dyno. I'm making my insert removable of course... so I can have it both ways. I believe the gains are made mostly with the second hole in the cat chamber. ( along with removing the s pipe, of course ) It's designed to have the output of the cat slammed into the rear chamber wall, then have to go sideways and back to get to the rear chamber. As you noted, your dynoed gains came from what you thought was reduced back pressure from the cat chamber. The second hole is right inline with the cat. Fun stuff! Ty

Looking forward to the results! Are you gonna keep the stock exhaust tip, or go bigger? I went with the 2" outlet, but i'm not sure it's needed. When I did Lewis's muffler, we kept the stock tip, nice sound, and power increase! And not as "boomy" at idle. In fact i'm experimenting with a mild DB killer, basically going back to stock outlet diameter. Not quieter, just softer at idle. Took a ride this morning, and that triple sounds really sweet. Man, I love this mod! Just removing the S pipe and adding second outlet from the Cat chamber is all that is really needed imo. Just FYI to any who are contemplating doing this mod. I'm also very curious to see how rodan's approach turns out! Ty

Ty

Sounds fun! Please keep us updated, and pics please. Ty

C25 is 75% Argon, 25% CO2 is standard mig welding gas here. .030" wire. TRI-MIX - 90% Helium - 7.5% Argon - 2.5% Co2 is the best for stainless, but I dont have another cylinder. These aren't structural welds, so strength is not an issue. Stainless flux core wire might be an option, never tried it. Ty

The muffler is stainless steel, so stainless wire is a must. Ty said he learned some things with mine concerning welding and mine came out nice. The muffler material is thin, so burn through is a possibility. Maybe Ty can post up his settings on his Mig to make things easier for you. So when are you going to work on your muffler? It ends up sounding very nice, and if you want it louder, just do the 2 inch exit pipe-ectomy later. I am happy with the way mine came out and is way easier to fabricate. The next time Ty and I ride together, we will compare sounds. The mig tip is hard to get in around the pipe section. But look at the pipe next to it, only welded top and bottom. I'ts not structural, it's not going anywhere. Make sure you wirebrush the soot off the chamber wall before welding. Yes, I used stainless wire. I dont have tri-mix gas, just using C25 which probably makes welding on this more difficult than it should be. But look at the funky factory welds on your muffler. Blackish fat, droopy beads. Probably quick hot fast welds, so as not to burn thru this material. I'd just burn a hole if I tried that. Probably robot welded. Good luck, Ty

Ok, so here's what I did to Lewis's muffler: After cutting out the s pipe and drilling additional hole, you are still left with this remnant. This goes thru the outer shell and is welded to the outer tailpipe sleeve a couple inches from the tip. We want to remove that. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut thru the inner layer only, going in from the outside tailpipe tip. S pipe remnant removed. Now the exhaust flow can go directly out the rear chamber relatively unobstructed. Secondary hole getting pipe welded in. Top welded back on. I had cut along existing weld line where possible this time. Helped when rewelding it back together. To sum up: Ty

Glad you like it Lewis! Looking forward to hearing your review when you get a chance to give it a good riding test. Sounded great in your yard. A bit quieter maybe, maybe not, but the same deep sound. I learned a few tricks this go around with the welding. I'm used to welding on thicker material, so this was a good learning experience for me. I was able to totally remove the stub of the S pipe, right up to the final necked down weld on the stock tip, ( papac200 will know what i'm talking about ) using a dremel from inside the exhaust tip end. So the rear chamber is totally open into the the tailpipe. I did take some pics, and I will post them up when I get a chance. And thank you for the expert mounting and balancing of my Suzuki's new rear tire! Ty

Hmmm? What was that sorry? Add some cheese? Ty