eeetea

There's a price to be paid for good traction, for sure...just sucks when freeway commute eats the tire down the middle before you get to enjoy the rest of it in the twistys. That's why stuck on the Avon's with dual compound, harder rubber in the centre portion

As other have hinted on here, there's nothing on the NGK site that would indicate that plug type has an effect on how hot the engine will run, rather that one has to select the right plug for the right temperature application. They also list some factors that WILL affect the engine run temperature (and thus affect the performance of the plug), and of course timing is one of them. Assuming that the plug itself cannot make the engine run hotter... was the plug swap the only task performed on this bike? No valve/timing work, ECU flash or otherwise? If not, could it be a bad plug and/or bad electrical connection, gaps not set right? That's not how I understood the NGK commentary, "...When you need your engine to run a little cooler, run a colder plug. When you need your engine to run a little hotter, run a hotter spark plug..."

That would be interesting.

The OP states that NGK recommended and he fitted plug CR9EIA-9, and later CocoST mentions an issue of hot pipes. From the NGK site: So clearly different plugs will run the engine at different temperatures. On selecting Heat Range, NGK state: There is also quite a good description on plug basics here Linky Linky to NGK On the NGK site, when looking for plugs for the FJ-09 / Tracer NGK only list a "Standard" plug, NOT an Iridium alternative. The part No for the standard plug is CPR9EA-9 # Stock Number 2308 It sounds to me as though the Iridium plug CR9EIA-9 probably is the equivalent to CPR9EA-9 ... but that doesn't explain why there is no iridium listing on the NGK site for the FJ09? Finally as a comment to CocoST, are you sure that you actually fitted the correct plug (id est, did you check the actual plugs? - who know's whether they accidentally ended up in the correct box?

Have you tried those hand warmer things that hang down from the front of the engine?....some say they get toasty red hot.

Your pipes got red hot after one minute? I don't know enough too comment properly... But I wouldn't think one minute was long enough... My understanding is that pipes get hot (and turn blue when cooled again) when a bike is running lean, or on preignition, I can only think that plugs are hotter type so igniting the fuel sooner? Anyone else care to comment?..I'm interested.

Whoever is riding that is doing an awesome wheely!

Yes, the dot & arrow should been aligned, but because the Tracer had bad clutch cables, this bike was swapped out with an R1's (higher quality) cable. The R1 cable is significantly longer measured end-to-end and left me with no more adjustment. R1 cable installed Clutch adjustment before Bolt's actuator swap I took this chance to shift the actuator a notch outwards, to gain back a bit of cable adjustment on my clutch lever, that's why the dot aren't aligned. On stock Tracer's clutch cable, it is not necessary. That looks like a good idea. I wouldn't mind doing that to mine. Can I ask with what you swapped the lever arm please? (throw out arm? never heard that expression in the UK but that may just be my ignorance) is that another stock Yamaha part? Would you have a part number (or bike model) please? Thanks, ET

Essex

excellent choice sir. I bought an x4 last week to replace my shoei neotec that I bought six months ago to replace my tour-x3, 7 years old. Very pleased with the x4... The shoei I have given to a friend. The x4 is better than the shoei, and an improvement on the x3. by way of update. The X4 top vents rattled and Arai sent some replacements...except they sent the wrong ones. Anyway I made one good set out of all bits. Next issue is when I came to fit the pinlock visor, that doesn't fit. And I also discovered multiple cracks on the visor radiating out from the left hand pivot point. Quite worrying for a six month old helmet. Anyway its gone back to Arai..we'll see what happens next.

Or where you need to lock to cut through surface debris which is shorter. I agree panic braking, for all but highly tuned motoGP riders and their ilk, ABS will win. But I haven't had to panic brake in donkeys years..once..but need to lock many times a year to cut through surface dressing clippings and the like.

The point for me at least is, Emergency breaking is extremely rare I can't even remember the last time I hit the breaks hard...yes... once in Wales 3 years ago. But I have, several times a year, every year and even a few times on the same journey wanted to purposely lock the wheel (only for a split second to cut in) to get through top dressing and debris to hit the tarmac underneath. ABS stops me having that option and consequently stops me stopping. All the research arguments for ABS is based on tarmac, and assumes for public highways that are not loose. Unfortunately the truth is, it often is, back country roads, wah out after heavy rains, top dressing with an inch of loose chippings are all real frequently encountered realities.

Thing is, I'm of English heritage, and I still didn't get it. I think the paper bag is mine, eh. Its irony rather than comedy - On one hand I state that everyone agrees that they managed without, then conveniently forget the ones that phucked up at didn't survive, that, had they survived, would have welcomed ABS. "They" also say if thou have to explain it, then it wasn't funny. ...I'll get my coat.

I got the Diamond White for £350. The Shoei was 450, and whilst good in many ways, I missed the peak too much, low sun is easily shielded in the evenings. The x4 is lighter and quieter than the x3, and the neotec

excellent choice sir. I bought an x4 last week to replace my shoei neotec that I bought six months ago to replace my tour-x3, 7 years old. Very pleased with the x4... The shoei I have given to a friend. The x4 is better than the shoei, and an improvement on the x3.

Just for the edification of my cousins across the pond, and elsewhere on this inter connected planet on which we reside, I thought you might like to know about SHARP. This is uk government sponsored independent research project into helmet safety. They are (verrry slowly) testing helmets for safety and rating them, with tests that are supposed to be a better reflection of accident conditions. See here: http://sharp.direct.gov.uk You can check out your helmet and see how good it is...

"Never trust a man who, if left alone in a room with a tea-cosy, doesn't put it on his head". [em]W[/em] Have you got a spy cam!

At some point you could have said the same thing about radial tires, disc brakes, wet clutches, etc. It's generally called progress. Tongue in cheek English humour I'm afraid

Alternatively we could all just learn to ride properly - people seem to have managed for the last 50 years without...well, except the ones that didn't survive, of course. Natural selection init.

Mind you ABS is becoming so good these days that even on gravel it can far outperform non-ABS. I have attended Simon Pavey's Offroad Skills course in Wales on a number of occasions. The first time was probably about 9 years ago using the relatively new at that time 1200GS. On the first day they said, "We've disabled the ABS and whatever you do, don't try and switch it back on!". In those days you had much more control modulating the brakes yourself. Last time I did the course was about 2 years ago with the latest 1200GS with its various riding modes including Enduro mode. This time they said on the first day "We've put the bikes in Enduro mode with the ABS [b style=text-decoration:underline]ON[/b], and whatever you do, don't try and switch it off!". I must say it was amazing. Riding down steep, gravelly inclines with slippery roots in your path and the front brake on and the bike just rolled down the hill in a controlled safe manner. I was suitably impressed. CS Yes. I agree the technology is improving all the time. I'm not sure how sophisticated it is on the FJ/Tracer but I suspect it would out perform my 2009 KTM990. What was true then, may not be true now - I'm no expert on these things! And again, I'm leaving it on - in fact I might find some dirt and try it out - probably better to do it in a controlled way, than wait for "the day"

Yes, this I believe to be true...and why I leave my ABS on.... But equally many including me, see the dangers when you stop on dirt...that shouldn't be an issue for road riding, but in the UK sometimes it is. The idea of ABS front and non ABS rear sounds like a good compromise, but whether that's possible?? For my riding style, I can't think of an incident where I have had to brake hard for the ABS to cut in (other than on loose gravel, where it was a hindrance) ...oh and in just trying it out. On a bike there is so much feedback through the bars even the slightest squirm is noticeable (remind me to change those Dunplops), on even sports cars that is far harder to detect imho. Err that's all really.

There a definite pros and cons. Its not the panacea of safety that some believe, nor is it the curse of beelezebub. The reason I cited that experience was because the Q was asked "when can it ever be dangerous?" Equally one could ask, "when does it have its advantages?", and I think there could be some equally valid example. Pro and cons, no wrongs or rights, just opinions and preferences

I understand wanting to have a bike in its pure form without having as many of the electronics.. but how does ABS make a bike dangerous? I came down a tarmaced back country road (on a KTM 990 Adventure ABS, not had the Tracer kick in yet) in the village where I live, not THAT steep but rather prone to have gravel and dirt wash to the bottom after rain. The road has a T junction at the bottom, so have to give way (yield) at the end. The speed limit is 30mph (its within the village) - I was doing maybe 20. Light front brake, but on the gravel bit ABS kicks in, I stop in the middle of the main road beyond the stop line. It was so slow and surreal, the bike was choosing to not let me stop, and there was FA I could do about it. I have lived here for 23 years, so know every little bump on that road. Had there been no ABS I could do what I always have done in that circumstance, a momentary intentional lock of the wheel would have cut through the shallow debris, caught the tarmac and the whole thing would have been a non-event. THAT is why it is (potentially) dangerous. You don't have full control. (Its why dirt riders will switch ABS off, to give full control - roads aren't always clean and sparkly... in fact today I went to the station down some back road slime mud covered on tarmac road, thinking "oh shit this thing has ABS" - I'm not a fan)

They're quite ingenious aren't they!

No, easier than that. These are quick fasteners, no need to take the centre out. TO REMOVE Push the centre pin in - this releases the "legs" and allows you to pull the whole fastener out TO REPLACE Push the centre pin back so it protrudes beyond the front face (this also releases the legs) Place the fastner back into the hole and push the pin so it is flush with the surface - legs are now locked again