FJ29ER

I have had mine over a year now and agree with all your points. Most $$ I have ever spent, since I got the bluetooth system as well, but it is the most comfortable helmet i have ever owned.  And yea...in 90+ degree weather it gets a little stuffy and the vents don't do much...but when it is cold....i open the top vent for a second and my scalp is frozen lol.

I do wish the visor had one notch between the lowest notch and the first notch. Just to crack it. It always slams closed if i go over 50 mph. And if I have it open with the dark shield closed....it directs anything on the road directly to my eyes...It is weird.

I got the matte blue. And promptly made sure i dropped it the first time handling it . RIGHT IN THE ROCKS!!

Warranty is only 1 year. Bikes are not made to be left outside. Especially in your climate. Washing it 2-3 times a week to keep the salt from sitting on it too long would be an answer. And repainting and some kind of protective coating.

16 hours ago, betoney said:

I clean and lube the front swingarm bearings and the linkage bearings every winter.  Might be overkill but it only takes an hour for piece of mind.

Well let this be proof that it is not overkill. I never ride in any moisture and I live in san diego county. This should have been my third time i think. Dryness would be my culprit, not water etc.

I am confused though, the bearings are sealed mostly so very little grease would actually get in the rollers. But I guess some is better the none. I still think the bearings could be wider for more support but im no engineer.

PS. I love olympia, Sister moved there but after a few years moved to rainier for some more property. So beautiful up there. I always go driving the first or second day just to soak it all in. Little wet for me though haha

1 hour ago, peteinpa said:

Anything bent?....out of allignment?

Nope. So when you put the "sleeve" through the bearing, it can rock in the bearing. So when it compresses it compresses crooked, so it scooted over and was rubbing. It has only been 2-3 weeks since I looked at it last, so 300 ish miles for it to do this.  I do have the spring perch on the 2nd to last notch being 250 lbs with gear/luggage so maybe that is at play.

4 hours ago, peteinpa said:

I've had this slight play on I think every bike I've owned which is mostly Hondas. It's the play between the mounting bolt and the bushing in the shock. Never a problem.

Now that rubbing, THAT is a problem. Looks like Yamaha's seemingly too frequent suspension lube and inspection interval is needed.

Here is some pix. Took them with greasy hands so sorry they are blurry. So i agree. Seems this should have been my second time servicing these. Bearings are slightly dry but still smooth rolling. Except the one on the swingarm which i feel is too narrow versus how much wider the mount is. Bearing is 15mm..the seals are both 3mm. and the mount is about 30mm. so 9mm of space? Bearing could be wider for more support i feel.

Thread revival!!!!

About 23k. On the clock.

Gave my bike a really good wash down and since ive been commuting daily for the last 2 mths decided to give it a little once over. I have always noticed the slight amount of play int he swing arm bushings and wanted to see if it is got worse or not, it did. I peaked inside the right side and noticed the relay arm has a huge gouge in it.

The small link arm was digging into the side of the arm. Looking for a used one..it seems they all have rubbing marks from the links. How is this a normal thing????

4 hours ago, bigorangecntry07 said:

Can you tell me how you've got it wired? I have this as well and tapped into the back of the light controller and I can't get it to function properly. The lights are working right now but dim when I hit the high beams. 

 

If you have the white wire from the skene controller tapped into the yellow or yell/black wire from the led controller it will not work. That is creating a "ground/negative" signal, so thats why it dims(basically is backwards from how it should be acting). You need a "power/positive" signal. So you have to have a negative switching signal in between that connection. It is a pain. I am currently getting all parts required to do this. Hoping to have it done in a month or less. Commute will be doubling though dark mountain roads so I need all the light I can get!

2 hours ago, bigorangecntry07 said:

Can you tell me how you've got it wired? I have this as well and tapped into the back of the light controller and I can't get it to function properly. The lights are working right now but dim when I hit the high beams. 

 

4 hours ago, jdavis said:

I have a Skene controller on my spotlights. This makes them running lights with low beam and spotlights with high beam. I have them switched from the rear of the headlight controller at the base of the lights.

Have you been running it like that for awhile? I will see if my lights are dimmable

Has anybody had any issues tapping into the high beam signal?

Why cant it be tapped into at the handlebar switch itself?

Maybe it is only a temp signal sent to the computer, not a constant signal..?

Only heard of one person having issues...

I would rather not have a switch on the handle bar.

2 hours ago, enx said:

Do you have an oem exhaust? Because I still think that sound happens in the exhaust.

 

Mine starts like that since new. I don't know what could be wrong with yours🤔

 

Yes OEM exhaust. Yea maybe a little spot weld popped loose or something. Maybe I can convince the wife I need a new exhaust.....

Me neither Has done it since new pretty much. Nothing has changed it really, valve adjustment,air filter change,throttle sync. It was worse before I removed charcoal cannister but yea. Starts like it is super rich for a second. like a leaky injector. But never really gets a "running fat" kinda smell.

23 hours ago, enx said:

I made a video of my tracer today https://youtu.be/1-U8W8cFJoI

 

YES!!!!! Exactly the same!!!!!!!!

I wish my bike started that nicely. Since new It would barely hot start until I removed the charcoal cannister but it still stumbles on cold start not matter what position switches are in or if I wait for fuel pump to prime or not. Dealer blamed overfilling on oil. But even under filling it does the same.

So i think im going to leave it at no freaking clue what it really is and being as everything functions properly etc....it is whatever. It is not getting louder and I cant feel it when I lay my hands on any part of the bike. headers,starter,clutch housing etc. Could be inside exhaust and just echoing louder then it really is.

21 hours ago, manimal said:

I thought I read in the Owners, or Service, manual that this is an 'oiled' air filter.  Wouldn't some of the filter oil end up inside the air box?

 No. It is a very minimal amount of oil on the filter. You can barely tell it is there. My bike still has about a cap full of oil in the air box no matter my oil level. I just relate it to high revving and the occasional higher elevation of my front wheel....😇

If both wheel speeds do not match the ABS will "butt" in. That is why if you try to skid it wont allow you too because the rear wheel is trying to rotate slower then the front.

If you were in the dirt and just grabbed the front brake then it will "butt" in. If you tried to do a nose wheelie at 10+MPH it would not let you. By saying "stoppie" I assume you were almost to a complete stop when the rear tire lifted. It wont "butt" in at a near stop. I have been able to skid a few feet when going below 5 mph just enough to look cool lol

13 minutes ago, kmev said:

Is your bike a 2015? 

So that I am confused on. I just called the dealer and they said it is a 2015 and I have a month left in my warranty. But the vin, my insurance etc says 2016. I will have to walk to the bike and look at the build date here in a minute.

EDIT 01/15. So yes it is a 15 then

1 hour ago, Scooter426 said:

Maybe starter gear popping back in to place? It is pretty faint.  Just get a louder exhaust! 😄

 

HAHA That is usually my fix. louder or exhaust or turn the volume up on the radio. That was the first thing I suspected so I held my hand on the starter and felt nothing. Crappy phone audio and clutch noise makes it quieter then it is.

1 hour ago, kmev said:

The clutch noise on my '15 with 19k miles is getting progressively worse. It sounds like your klunk, but I have successive, continuous, various-interval klunking whenever the clutch is out, no matter whether I'm sitting still in neutral or going 85 mph on the interstate. 

My clutch has always been noisy - sounds like a rattling dry clutch - only this bike has a wet clutch and it stops rattling when you pull in the clutch (i.e. release pressure on the clutch disks, the opposite of how my old dry clutches would rattle). 

Last summer on my Arctic trip I began noticing the klunking at speed, which was new. Now, as I depart from a stoplight I get a sound like marbles in the gearbox when I'm taking off. I have the extended YES warranty and will be making an appointment with the dealer in a few weeks. I still need the bike for some work commuting I'm doing for the next couple weeks. 

Yea my clutch is getting pretty loud. when released in neutral. Def sounds ducati like. But nothing is constant yet.

36 minutes ago, betoney said:

FWIW, my clutch was making an abnormally loud chattering noise (but clutch actuation and lever pull was fine), I took it to the dealer and they measured the basket and determined it to be slightly out of round or oblong, they replaced it under warranty.

Man, I will put in a call to the dealer and see what warranty I got. I think i only got a three year..which I am past. But thanks for the tip

12 hours ago, iitywygms said:

Mine does the same thing.  I guess I will worry about it when it breaks.  Keeping my eye on what you find tho.

I am almost there to just let it ride. But it may become my main mode of transportation in the coming months so I figured id exhaust my shirlock skills.

12 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

My thoughts as well.  Is it an electrical sound? ...relay/solenoid?

13 hours ago, skipperT said:

This is going to sound like an odd question, but what if you turn the key on WITHOUT starting the bike, does it still make the click sound with the engine not running but bike powered on? Please wait the same amount of seconds to be sure.... 

-Skip

 

Def not an electrical click. Unless these have some 80s ford starter solenoid on em that I have yet to find.

After 3 starts with clutch in...it is significantly quieter but the knock/clunk still happens but you can hear it more pronounced. I thought this morning I heard a rising valve tapping noise followed by the clunk and it went away.... I had my helmet on already so I will try to get a video again to see if the audio is better with clutch in.

I feel like it is acting like some autodecomp mechanisms out of dirtbikes

On 7/17/2020 at 3:58 PM, texscottyd said:

I’ll be interested in what you find.  I may try and vary my startup routine to see if I can find any repeatable pattern.   

These bikes do seem to generate a lot of random mechanical noises, don’t they?  

Still does it. Even on center stand.  It is about 11 seconds in. I think I am going to try holding clutch lever in and see if there is a change.

On 7/17/2020 at 3:58 PM, texscottyd said:

I’ll be interested in what you find.  I may try and vary my startup routine to see if I can find any repeatable pattern.   

These bikes do seem to generate a lot of random mechanical noises, don’t they?  

Yes they do! So far after two cold starts on the center stand it has not made a peep....so we will see.

O GEEZ @Wintersdark At least you are here to talk about it! I learned on my dualsport, so a little easier way haha. Phone kept almost falling out.

53 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

   If you start it on the centerstand, watch the rear wheel to see if there’s any visual change (speed up/slow down of drag rotation, chain/wheel twitches in sync with the noise, etc) 

My FJ has about 19k miles, so similar to yours.   

ooo good recommendation. It is always on the side stand when cold, but after lunch it is on the center. Yea mine sounds almost like a dry clutch since new. Slightly quieter after fresh oil but back within a few miles.

Have been using this for 3 bikes now. The same one. So six years now.. Mounts dead center on the handlebars so no vibrations. And you can adjust it up and down for use with a tank bag (sw motech quick lock evo) and phone size etc I have a note8. I can still see the speedometer when phone is in landscape. You just gotta glue the little rubber tips onto the pegs.

On 7/15/2020 at 2:02 PM, duhs10 said:

Just started mine and let it warm up just to compare.. didn't get that noise, but also harder to hear faint noises over the rumble of the Akro.

I'm in agreement with @kilo3that it is most likely related to something expanding or adjusting to heat.

Does it happen after startup 100% of the time?

100% time on cold start in the morning. and Every once in awhile if I go somewhere on my lunch. I started it yesterday at lunch and put my hand on the muffler/cat underneath and the head pipe and of course it did not do it.

Yesterday morning I put my hand on the exhaust tip and did not feel any kind of clunk/crack. So I will further investigate and try to get better video. Maybe just record audio as well. Going to give it some love with oil change, air filter, throttle sync etc this weekend