dazzler24

On 8/30/2019 at 1:53 PM, betoney said:

@dazzler24 - It is weight in riding gear.  When buying a suspension component, buy the correct spring rate for your weight so you can set sag correctly, you would then adjust the damping to make it softer or firmer.

If you already have the Andreani cartridges they should have the correct spring rate unless you have drastically changed weight since then. 

If you have questions call the vendor where you are buying the shock, any suspension vendor should be able to tell you what spring rate you need.

Thanks betony, and yes I agree that it should be in riding gear as that is what logic would suggest. However the Race tech site e.g. specifically says when it comes to entering rider weight for spring choice : "Rider weight(without gear)".  So I don't know anymore.

My Andreani preload is on the higher side (wound in) with the correct sag dialed in which was also making me wonder if my spring choice originally was on the slightly too light side.

If I understand things correctly, if the spring choice is correct, preload should ideally be wound almost all the way out to  give just a bit of static sag and then the correct sag with rider on board to get maximum use out of your spring/s.  I believe  there are other factors to consider, riding style, individual nuances for rider feel/comfort, etc but I believe that is generally the rule?  Further to this they need to be the same front and back if you want a 'flat' bike geometry. i.e. if I end up needing the rear to be a heavier spring than what I have in the front I'll end up with a higher front end as I'll have more pre load in (at the front) which will increase the nose height. (chopper style geometry).   If it turns out that I need the heavier spring for the shock I might have to change out the front springs to match $$!   I'm learning as I go and no expert so feel free to correct me if I'm off the mark or expecting too much.

Anyway I had already written, twice now, to ask the question of the distributor of the shock before I asked here but to date have been met with stoney silence.  Perhaps they don't know themselves!

I'll try the K-tech people themselves now and see what they reply with.  Gotta be in riding gear surely!

On 8/30/2019 at 1:59 PM, wordsmith said:

I'd think that the weight to be chosen would be in full riding gear - anything else hardly makes sense!   But I'll know early next  week when my GT is to be upgraded with a full K-tech conversion, including the Razor-R rear shock.   I'll weigh myself before heading off on Tuesday to have this done, wearing full kit including helmet.   Will also weigh full panniers, as the engineer doing the job needs to include this in his calculations for settings when I'm touring.   BTW - you and I have the same weight.

Hi wordsmith, yes your first sentence sums it up you'd think......but???

However, and for obvious reasons, I'll be super keen to hear your experience/results of the fit out that is being done by a suspension professional if you don't mind sharing the info.   If he doesn't know, no one does!   Same shock AND coincidentally same weight.

..hmmm, same weight, Aussies, Queenslanders.... clearly thoroughbreds! 😎😉😋

Cheers and thanks.

Hi all, I'm wanting to change out my stock rear shock on my 2015 Tracer for a K-tech Razor R and wanted to ask what might be an obvious question to most but I personally am unsure.

When ordering there are questions as to what type of riding you intend it for (track, street, touring, etc) and a weight range to choose from.  It's the weight choice that I'm unsure of.

Is it simply my weight in normal clothes or riding gear?  I would have thought in riding gear but I have read (somewhere?) that it is in normal clothes as the supplier takes that into consideration?!

I'm 78kgs - normal clothes and near 85Kgs in full riding kit.  Of course the selections are 70/80kgs then 80/90kgs etc.

I'm not a track rider or even an aggressive street rider (I'm 'old' now!) so was wondering if I should be looking at the lighter spring anyway?!  The more I read the more confused I'm getting about the subject.

I should add that a few years ago I replaced/upgraded the front forks with an Andreani kit and selected the 'touring'; 70/80Kg spring option then (I was 74-75Kgs then) and they seem to have served me well.  Should I be sticking with that option for the rear now anyway because of that choice for the front?

Any words of wisdom are appreciated - other than lose some weight or sell the bike 😉

Cheers.

7 hours ago, peporter said:

Tank lock releases with a tug of a lanyard on the front of the bag. It is very inconspicuous. The only caution is to make sure it is snapped on to the front of the bag before you re-mount it after a fill up. And the bag might need a firm push to get it locked in place. As you can see, my bike is a '15, and this was the first farkle for it. I love it!

I have had one of these for a few years as well on my 2015 Tracer and also think it looks as though it belongs on this tank.  The bag follows the lines and curve of the tank perfectly without rubbing the c#$p out of the paintwork.  Also comes with it's own raincoat.

For me at 7L capacity, it fits just the right balance of being not too big to be a lump in front of you nor too small that you can't fit the most 'needed to hand' items.

Also should mention that you can 'lock' it to the tank lock ring from inside the bag if you want a little bit more security when away from the bike should someone find that inconspicuous lanyard.

27 minutes ago, TracerAU said:

I too say that every bike I get, but I'm already failing.  I've ordered the Givi mounting rack and plate for the top box.  I already have a Givi v47 from my other bike, so I figure it would be good to use it on the Tracer as well.

Ha!  And there it is!  It's all part of the fun.  Sometimes I think I spend more time (and money) on the bike than actually riding it! 🤑

Enjoy.

1 hour ago, TracerAU said:

Great to see a dedicated Tracer forum.  I don't plan on doing too many mods to the bike.

Hi TracerAU, I agree that it's great (and refreshing!) to see a dedicated Tracer/FJ09/XSR forum.  Lot's of good stuff in here.  You say you don't plan on doing too many mods.... that's what I said too in 2015 😉

Cheers.

On 6/26/2019 at 4:12 AM, wordsmith said:

REAR LUGGAGE RACK FOR GT

Does anyone here know where I can find a rear rack for my new GT, like the pic below.   I had this before and it was excellent and affordable, but more than likely will not fit the GT.   TIA...   The bottom pic is Yamaha's rear rack, which replaces the OE pillion grips, but is eye-wateringly expensive!

@wordsmithIs this what you were looking for?  I know you posted a little while ago but.... It's saying for MT-09 2015 - 2019?!  This is the one I bought for my 2015 Tracer & looks like the pic you have shown as well so .... not sure.

Rear Carrier Luggage Rack For YAMAHA FJ-09 MT-09 Tracer 2015-2019 18 17 16 CNC

---

...

15 hours ago, betoney said:

I used the clutch holding tool and a breaker bar.  

The clutch holding tool is just a special shaped vice-grip tool with tabs on the end to hold the basket, it’s not too expensive. The basket is about $400, you DO NOT want to improvise with a homemade tool and damage it. 

6 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Yes good point. And that US$400 basket is closer to $600 here in Australia!  Ouch!

OK, I've got one of these coming.  You're right, a $40 clutch holding tool vs the risk of damaging and replacing a $600 part is a no brainer.

7 hours ago, betoney said:

I used the clutch holding tool and a breaker bar.  

The clutch holding tool is just a special shaped vice-grip tool with tabs on the end to hold the basket, it’s not too expensive. The basket is about $400, you DO NOT want to improvise with a homemade tool and damage it. 

Yes good point. And that US$400 basket is closer to $600 here in Australia!  Ouch!

2 hours ago, skipperT said:

It doesn't matter what type of loctite is on there, apply heat carefully and it will come off more easily.

More importantly: Don't forget to UNSTAKE the nut before you try to remove it! it's peened to the main shaft.

Holding the basket by hand while attempting to use an impact wrench on the basket may induce pain or trauma, YMMV. 

-Skip

Thanks skipperT, Yes I've come to the decision to use some judicious heat - carefully as you have said.  It can't hurt no matter what colour the loctite is.

And yes I've seen the videos of some experienced mechanics using their hand to hold the clutch boss or pressing on the clutch pack with a thumb while using a rattle gun.  They make it look easy but for me there is that primal inner self preservation holding me back!  Inserting fleshy parts into potentially spinning sharp metal bits tells me - just don't do it!  For me at least.

2 hours ago, betoney said:

Like @skipperT mentioned, the nut is a security type nut and technically a one time use, just like the front sprocket nut.  Make sure you have a replacement before you undertake this project so you aren’t waiting a week with the bike torn apart. 

I've got the 'kit' coming for this project and yes it includes a new boss nut and thanks for the reminder about the peened part to consider before removal. Most important.

Has anyone actually made a video specifically for this project?  I've looked and haven't found one...?

If I feel creative I might break out the go pro and do one myself if not!  Although perhaps after this passage of time, those who were thinking of doing it have already done it or moved on. I'll report back here on the outcome and my experience at the very least.

Anyway, thanks guys for your info and advice.  I appreciate it.

Cheers.

20 minutes ago, betoney said:

I used red Loctite when I installed mine.

Thanks for the reply betony.  Do you know if it was red Loctite that was already on the thread when you dismantled the original?  It seems that there are all sorts of methods and related issues for getting that nut off in the first place so wanted to give myself the best possible chance with the least possible risk before attacking the job.

I should say that I have a rattle gun that many have reported as working well getting boss nuts free and don't particularly want to spend a small fortune on a special basket holding tool (if not 'necessary') that I probably won't ever use again.

So I guess I'm still wondering if I need to apply heat or not depending on the original type of Loctite used.

How was your experience?  Did you use any heat or just the special holding tool and breaker bar?

Thanks again.

Hi All,

I know this thread (like me) is getting a little long in the tooth but I had a question about the loctite used on the clutch boss nut/thread.  Does anyone know with authority what colour was used?  i.e. RED or BLUE?  Someone reported it as being RED (or they thought so at least) but I was hoping that a definitive answer was out there.

It's my understanding that RED NEEDS heat to release it safely while BLUE doesn't.

Cheers