chitown

13 hours ago, Bimbim18 said:

Care to elaborate?

If you're going to lay down a chunk of change and might ever need support you're buying the tuner not just the product. Have spoken to half a dozen or more over the years. Independent tuners are often "special" but only one convo ended up in seller nonsense rant and no purchase. 

As to the products which I've compared on like bikes at rallies and such -- better than some, worse than others. Luckily there are choices. If you want the best try to find baseline and after data collected by the same person and equipment posted by a customer. Much more reliable than the butt dyno review -- and I'm including my butt dyno in that statement  

1 hour ago, sp0okz said:

What software so you use to read the ECU data and also how can I co tact ivan

 

How is the outcome so far 

But after speaking to him once I won't ever be a customer. YMMV

Shinko is Korean for "lowside". 

That's a joke  

Will say after helping a friend mount Shinkos they performed well but needed more weight for balancing than any tire I've ever mounted. QC may have improved since as that was a few years back. 

if nobody from Garmin shows up there's a forum for developers here

Developer - Garmin Forums

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Developer

Michelin Power front + Road 2/3/4 rear is my preference. 

+1 Also have a friend without a finger tip. Just don't see enough upside for it to make any sense. Of course, I've given up lubing completely with great results so riding more lubing less  

Mine is 2015 as well. 

0, 21.4, 31.5, 51.5 -- is that three levels or four?  

In addition to those...

yocracing.com. A real Yamaha dealer still owned and operated by a local racing family. Bought the FJ-09 there but was buying parts from them for my other Yamahas long before that. Even with local sales tax and shipping they usually beat other online shops. They don't offer free shipping but there's a perpetual discount code "Time To Ride" that last I checked took another 5% off everything.

partzilla.com (same as boats.net)

Oh, and did the accessory exhaust from Babbitt's. At the time they weren't charging sales tax in my state and had a pretty aggressive price.

+3, also use a strap.  Lifting hasn't been an issue but as I mentioned I redid the jaws with cutting board pieces like in this pic stolen from the intertubez

And lemony Pledge tire lube for the win!  It's got 1001 motorcycling uses: tire install lube, plastic polish, shield cleaner, all around leading edge friction reducer...

My buddy loaned me his pocket scope. Guess what? Same duty cycle numbers you posted for the Heat Demons is what I got for Yamaha grips +/- 1%.  

Here's some scope porn from measuring level 10. 

And, yes, heat sink. I will say Heat Demon's are balanced pretty well with the addition of the heat shrink. I remember when these came with a big ceramic resistor  

I have the Harbor Freight changer which has a breaker. While most HF stuff is crap it's done many many changes over 13+ years. At some point I added cutting board material (Target kitchen aisle) to the surfaces that contact the rims. 

Without the HF would probably just do something like below

2 hours ago, Coop said:

The reason I think a powerlet in the forward plastic would be nice is that the connector would be right in front of you and easily plugged in and out.  Connecting a SAE plug left handed isn't my idea of fun.  Yes, I know it comes out on either side and doing it with one hand every time I get off would not be fun. 

Everybody gets a preference. Prefer my heated gear attachment coming out from underneath the front of the seat so that I can attach/remove while astride the bike. 

Only issue I had installing a Powerlet in the panel space for the cig adapter is that the Powerlet was smaller than the provided hole so there was no purchase to tighten it in place. Made some collars from a couple pieces of black abs laying around the garage.  

On 5/14/2019 at 5:02 AM, dedsxy47 said:

I finally have time to give the bike the attention it needs.  The windshield and instrument cluster had begun to shake late last year and I feared the support bracket was cracked; I was right.  I knew the taller touring V-Stream would put some stress on the stock bracket as I regularly travel at 80mph + rain or shine.  Going for the re-weld option as a neighbor is a fellow biker and professional welder.  Tires were also shot but I managed to get 13K miles out of the front to two rears last season on RS IIs.  The rear was cooked due mostly to commuting, unfortunately.    I opted for a set of RS III as I have done very well on RS II in all weather and road conditions where I ride up here in MN.  

I will follow up with a posting of everything put back the way it should be and pics of the tire wear if anyone is interested.  I doubt anyone will be fitting RS IIs as they are no longer being produced.  

The fairing bracket made it 16K miles with the tall touring windshield before corrosion at the weld and fatigue/cyclic stress caused its demise. 

 

 

...

Just noticed this. Interesting. From where I've seen many installing accessories this may be an area to monitor. My screen is large (Puig) but not very rigid. Was actually a bit relieved to see it flex at higher speeds given how Yamaha put the front end together. 

What is a BMW plug? Powerlet sockets can be added where ever you desire. Yes, it will hold up to the stress if properly installed. Be advised heated gear may draw too much current to use the Yamaha provided accessory wiring at the front of the bike. My GPS uses Powerlet so one of the first things I did on my FJ-09 was replace the lh side cig adapter with Powerlet for that. Tiny draw so used one of the available accessory leads. For heated gear would probably mount an additional socket near seat/tank and do my own wiring. 

The service manual does call for performing the tests after any bleed. Thus, it's with the new fluid in the system, not for the purpose of flushing. 

Fwiw have replaced all lines, three fluid replacements, and all bleeds without using those tests nor any issues of old fluid retained in the pump. The system is self-tested each time the bike is turned on and you can put slight pressure on the levers and usually feel vibration. I usually cycle the ignition before putting everything back together after bleeding and make sure levels are unchanged and no codes thrown. And another check of levels after a short shake down ride.

If that laser was attached to a shark's head I might have to get one

If I can't see alignment marks on a swingarm I use a rule with a slide.

4 hours ago, Explorer said:

I Wouldn't have thought  you needed a paddock stand when you have a centre stand. ?

Depends on the task. Header removal etc. While that can be done on the side stand it's easier with a rear stand. 

As to OP go slow and make sure it's positioned correctly. Have had some dumb drops in my day but none caused by using rear stands. Have used my stand on my porky FJR many times. Along with a head lift stand at the front. 

Some chocks work free standing and work well if the surface is abrasive enough. Baxleys and knock-offs thereof for example. But for maintenance they can be limiting. 

Have tried some of the less expensive alternatives in the past but they have never held up for me like buying a GS or Yuasa replacement when the time comes. Have been getting 5+ years out of the Yuasas purchased on Amazon. Just recently replaced the FJ-09's nearly five year old battery with one for $106 delivered. 

Would probably be all over a lith-ion battery -- particularly if we were losing unsprung weight -- but have had to wait for folks to "warm up" before they could start etc. Plus other chargers and such. Hoping if I wait prices will come down too. 

On the flip side if you like to keep your new bike fastidiously clean and scratch-free I once read: "You can take any bike you like. Just don't take one you love." :)

I want to deflect some of the junk just a bit more rearward. Was going to make my own extension to the factory unit but snagged one like the first post for about $30 delivered. Didn't expect much and was not disappointed  The mesh pieces were kinda sorta hot-glued on and two fell off coming out of the packing. Not complaining. Will ride with it a bit to see what's what then may modify the openings with some abs welding, swap out the mesh to some finer stainless stuff I have laying around etc.  

You can take pretty much any bike to Alaska. And, up the Haul Road (Dalton Highway). Rider, not bike. 

My Roadcrafter one piece with armor but NO back protector would be a struggle to get into an FJR side case. Fits in my Givi's (46 or 52) fine. 

But, I always toted my gear inside because of heat anyway.

When I can't, if weather is good or parking is covered I run a cable lock through the suit and helmet and the rest goes in the luggage.

4 hours ago, Luma46 said:

I am no racer, in fact I am probably one of those individuals who slow the traffic. 😎. The only difference I can tell bwtween tires is when I get a flat. To me, the only criteria I have about a tire is miles/$ 🤗. And BTW, the OEM tires on GT are just fine...

Better tires make it stop faster. Bambi comes quick at legal riding speeds  

My track tires would be less safe than the oem tires on the street. 

Repeat after me: tires and suspension first.

IMO they're pretty crap but fairly predictable. If only commuting would probably use em up but otherwise no regrets tossing them early. Like Roadsmarts the rears are just average and the fronts are easily overwhelmed. No regrets tossing them and replacing with my preferred Michelin Power front + Road rear combo.  

It wouldn't be the first time to discover errors in a Yamaha owner's or service manual. Trust, but verify