chitown

The clutch/throttle balance on mine is comparable to the factory grips. Did use the piece of clutch side heat shrink provided in the Heat Demon kit, normally will use electrical tape or similar as I did with the factory grips.  

Have yet to take measurements... buddy is still busy traveling etc and didn't leave me his scope that will allow me to get the duty cycle PWM stuff. Will try to get that handled next week.

But, have finally wrapped up Spring maintenance and ergos mods so got out on a ride today for a few hundred miles to test. Ergos mods were -- cut down the stock bar max possible to bring hands in and add more lane splitting margin, swapped out Yamaha grips so can use preferred grips and throttle lock again, spun the handlebar clamps and installed the Tusk risers so 15 mm up and 10 mm back overall. Just fine tuning as was already pretty happy for 500 mile days. 

Ergos mods successful. Heaters worked perfectly and felt as warm as Yamaha grips at 1, 5, 10. Very happy thanks to this thread  

Still prefer a dedicated satnav. My phones have usually been more expensive, less hardened against the elements and vibration, and a more critical item to protect while far from home. Like to keep it on my person, on the off chance I'm separated from the bike, can reach it and use it. Redundancy should one device fail. While there are plenty of things I don't like about Garmin and their software still dig their hardware. Lasted through years of goat trail pounding, drops, and exposure. First Zumo still works at 13 years old but have replaced the digitizer with one from ebay and it no longer gets map updates. Still useful and pretty good $/year of service. Picked up a 660LM back when Garmin end-of-lifed it at a healthy discount. 

2 hours ago, M.G said:

If I remember from my enforcement days all vehicle speedometers must over read - this is to avoid you using the defence that your speedo was under reading. Most will be up to 10% over - as digital ones become more common they are more accurate but they will still be programmed to over read - the gap gets larger the faster you go. 

Wasn't sure if it was a defense or to forestall liability but that's why I'm surprised when someone says a new vehicle is dead on.   

From Cycle World:

Quote

On testbikes we typically see an error of a few percent in the speedometer reading—at times up to 10 percent and always on the high side. This fudge factor can most likely be traced to ECE Regulation No. 39, which is a 14-page document detailing speedometer accuracy for vehicles sold in EU countries. According to this law, a speedometer can read high by as much as 10 percent plus 4 km/h at a specified test speed, but under no circumstances can the speedometer read low.

Speedometer accuracy is very dependent on tire diameter, which is affected significantly on a motorcycle by pressure, load, and temperature. These values are strictly defined in the regulation’s testing procedure, and the speedometer calibration must take these potential alterations into account. In addition, the manufacturers must consider the owner changing to non-standard tires, which may have a different diameter than the OEM fitment. In our last tire test, diameter of the seven rear tires tested varied by 2 percent, which directly affects the speedometer by the same amount. This also accounts for some of the discrepancy. Even with all these variables, however, the manufacturers do seem to be erring on the side of caution so the speedometer doesn’t read low.

Why is My Motorcycle Speedometer Wrong? | Ask the Geek

WWW.CYCLEWORLD.COM

---

Motorcycle speedometers aren't always accurate and sometimes need proper calibration. Here's why they aren't always accurate, and how you can correct them.

For many,  "because I can" or "I like to tinker" is enough. 

Have had several bikes I didn't flash. But this sort of post reminds me of posts that can't understand why for many of us suspension is one of the first mods. But I don't ride hard, I'm not a Ricky Racer, I only commute,... If you haven't researched it or experienced it you might not realize there are benefits that are less obvious.

Flashed my FJ-09 to spite The Man that tried to put a speed limiter on my motorcycle! 

What we got to say (yeah)
Power to the people no delay
Make everybody see
In order to fight the powers that be

J/k it was mostly because I could and periodically tinkering with the bike tamps my urges to buy a different bike every few years. These days I don't throw money at fueling chasing power. Not that there's anything wrong with that, do what ya feel, but skipping a burger and beer is cheaper and more effective for most".

texscottyd's solution is pretty common, sometimes you can find coupling nuts that make decent substitutes at a local hardware store, but a decent hex socket set is worth the investment once you start putting wrenches to bikes. 

Life happened so didn't get out riding to test or take measurements but I have very toasty grips in the garage. One thing wanted to pointed out before others go there... there is no yellow & blue wire to the factory connectors. Believe the places above where this is referenced need to be updated from y & b to y & r. Double check me but the service manual wiring diagram agrees. 

Also bought the barrel connectors on fleabay. Search "yamaha turn signal connector". 

Even among the same models I see different error reported online so always do my own check with GPS or phone across the range of speeds that cover majority of my riding.

All of my Japanese vehicles have had slight speedo optimism with stock gearing. The only motorcycle I've had that was near-perfect out of the box was a KTM. Must be Austrian precision?    

3 hours ago, Duke said:

Connect the white wires from both grips to the yellow & blue wire from one of the heated grip connectors on the bike. The yellow and blue wire is the 12v positive source that is regulated by the dashboard menu  

Then connect the red wires from both grips and the blue wires from both grips to the black wire from the other heated grip connector on the bike. The black wire is the ground wire that eventually makes its way back to the negative of the battery.

At this point all necessary connections are made and your grips should work. Button things up and go for a ride to test their effectiveness. Then go home and treat yourself to a cold beverage because you are awesome and you are done!

FYI...you do NOT use the pure yellow wire in either connector. That wire is used with the factory heated grips because they are connected in series. That wire is not used for this configuration at all because the grips are connected in parallel to achieve a working, total resistance. 

Ah, that will likely put me over the hump this evening, thank you. 

Also mentioned this to my buddy that is the best driver and rider I've ever followed and was designing circuits in grade school. Had to talk him down from converting a Bronco he's restoring to an EV last week. He's going to come by this weekend to help me ou... er to drink my beer, and has all the good tools and scopes and such.  

If there's anything you would like to know, or might be helpful to others, that we can measure/observe about the Yamaha grip setup before I sell them please let me know. 

Having a difficult time reconciling your diagram to using the factory connectors. My grasp of this stuff ends at the diagram on the back of a standard relay.  

2 hours ago, Duke said:

I wonder what the resistance of each of your grips is. 

Got menu but had to stop for the evening.

For reference the heaters I'm using are Heat Demons with the same model as yours. Haven't had to deal with resistance much but assuming I'm to measure red+blue to white, 5.2 for one grip and 3.5 for the other. Wiring each grip to a factory connector got the menu. Suspect this is the the first configuration you mentioned but will test for heat before making any changes.  

On 4/22/2019 at 4:40 PM, Duke said:

Maybe @chitown will beat me to it. I have a feeling that he is going to be working hard to get the mods to his bike done quickly. 

That sounded good but was unable to get my heat demons to be recognized by the bike.

Might add that If you have access to a rear stand you don't need to remove the center stand. The headers only need to be rotated out of the way, which can be done without pulling the cat through the center stand.

When dealing with springs and no spring tool there's the penny trick too. Coins/washers/etc inserted between coils. 

Both of his accounts left some question marks for me. Haven't been gentle with mine. About the same level of concern as with the FJR. 

1 hour ago, foxtrot722 said:

This is my first time experiencing this problem, but many others have. 

My 2015 with the bottom drain plug finely caught up with me. was getting fuel about 200 mile from home, in the pouring rain, misjudged a little step down, bottom of bike just barley touched, just enough to feel, pulled back under fuel pump area and inspect. After about 2 minutes, saw that one little drop of oil. Rented an U-Haul 5X9 trailer and trailered the bike 200 miles to home. So the good part is, caught it as soon as it happened. 

Call the dealer where I purchased the bike, spoke with service Manager and explained the bottom drain design error and Yamaha attempted to correct the problem with a redesigned drain that was located on the side. 

Taking that into consideration,  would he provide a discount on the parts needed to make the repairs. 

After getting pricing, looks like to me the pricing they offered was retail. based that on a Yamaha Parts web site that was offering parts at a 40 % discount. When I added up the web parts cost and added about 40% to it, it was near what the dealer quoted me. 

Needless to say, I was a little miffed that the dealer didn't appear to offer any discount. The next time I am close by, I'll stop in and ask to speak to the Dealer Manager, only fair to let him know they have lost a customer and I won't rely on them for new bike sales, parts, or service. 

I was aware of the Mazda mod, but felt consider I ride solo and am cautious about clearance, I could avoid hitting something. Which was not the case. Remember, the bump was so light, I barely felt it. 

For those of you that might want to switch to a side drain pan, below is a part list I ordered. The online part number page showed the new part # for the pan and also a new part # for the 15 screws to mount. I was not able to tell if the screws for the new pan was longer or shorter, so I ordered them also. 

This leads to a question, was looking a the two skid pans Twisted Throttle offers, just don't really like the look, but not sure if there are any better choices. Anyone have any suggestions?

     . .Gasket
Item #214-11198-01-00    $1.60    3    $4.80

     Gasket, Exhaust Pipe
Item #4FM-14613-00-00    $5.15    3    $15.45

     Element Assy, Oil Cleaner
Options: Old Sku: 5GH-13440-50-00
Item #5GH-13440-60-00    $8.08    1    $8.08

     . .O-Ring
Item #5VY-8A8E0-00-00    $4.42    2    $8.84

     . Plug, Straight Screw
Item #90340-14132-00    $5.88    1    $5.88

     Bolt, Hexagon Socket Head
Options: Old Sku: 91312-06025-00
Item #91317-06025-00    $1.90    15    $28.50

     Strainer Cover Assy
Options: Old Sku: 1RC-13400-00-00
Item #B56-13400-10-00    $131.45    1    $131.45

     Gasket, Strainer Cover
Options: Old Sku: 1RC-13414-00-00
Item #BD5-13414-00-00    $11.74    1    $11.74
 
 
 
Subtotal:     $214.74
Shipping:     $23.49
Salestax:     $0.00
Order Total:     $238.23

 

Bummer. 

Swapped mine before any damage and the only parts needed were the Strainer Cover Assy, and Gasket, Strainer Cover. Pan came with a new drain plug and drain plug gasket. All other parts were reused -- tho I'd have ordered exhaust gaskets as well if I hadn't done this pretty early on. 

(11.38 + 131.44) - 5% Time To Ride coupon + tax/shipping from yocracing.com. 

2 hours ago, Duke said:

The menus work exactly the same as they do for the OEM heated grips. You have a choice of low/med/high while riding, and you have the ability to customize each of these settings from a sub menu. I believe the sub menu is only available when the engine is not running, but I'm not 100% certain of that.

Thanks. I've run the same grip heaters you linked on a half dozen bikes and this will save me drilling on something for the switch install. 

In the middle of spring maintenance as well as flipping the handlebar clamps around and narrowing the bars. Pulled the Yamaha heated grips off yesterday and was contemplating installing the set of heat demons laying in my parts pile so I can go back to the old throttle cable housing that was skinnier and worked with my throttle lock.

It's not a full range troller but so nice of Yamaha to provide a cleaner switch and a whole nuther setting for Heat Demons

@Duke nice work and informative write up. 

One thing I'm not clear on is whether you are able to use the menu controls for low/med/high and get varying amounts of heat on the fly?  

Have had helmet speakers but never enjoyed them. If you do stick with earbuds, took some trial and error but the Etymotic MC5 come with a variety of washable rubber and foam tips and one of them works great for me. All day comfortable, good quality, can still hear emergency vehicles. Been using them (and the ER6 model that preceded them) for ten plus years. 

I don't know what the used market is like there but this doesn't have to be a forever decision. 

For someone of your level of experience, whom I haven't watched ride, my advice is always going to be: buy a used dual sport. You can learn a lot by riding it in areas of questionable traction and when you drop it there will far less regret. When you feel yourself getting "ahead" of the bike it's time to upgrade. 

That said I've owned both a Versys 650 and FJ-09 as my primary bikes. Sold the Versys when I bought the FJ. Both fantastic. A used Versys around here is way less expensive than a GT. You might consider a used Versys for a time and as your ability/confidence increase so might the number of used GTs. ABS, TC, and modes aren't purchase decision points for me until everything else is more or less equal. The Versys has less leg room but that's more an issue for folks with bad knees than a matter of height as my 6'7 buddy also had one and wasn't uncomfortable.

On 3/16/2019 at 5:48 AM, Luma46 said:

Checked the service manual - yes, the bike has thermostat. Looking from the front, it is to the left of the oil filter, a bit up. They call it 'thermostat assembly' and it doesn't seem to be designed to be taken apart. Manual just says check for damage, leaks...

There is no procedure on checking the function/temperature of the thermostat, weird.

It's a sealed unit thus no testing procedure. But others have cut them open and there's a standard thermostat inside that you can test in the traditional way. Course if you cut it open you'll need to seal back up in a way that doesn't make you wonder if it's going to leak. Or drop 45ish on a new one from a discounter 

I think these digital readouts make folks obsess. Reminds me of the story, probably just net folklore, that when Kawasaki introduced early temp gauges they were flooded with complaints so they added a resistor to make the gauge read lower. Complaints dropped lol. 

Thus far I've only added Powerlet in the front panel. Were I to add one for gear the various chassis mount kits Powerlet offers should provide inspiration. 

Bear in mind that swapping fuses to allow for more draw may require replacing the wiring. Not saying it is or isn't in the cases mentioned above but if you're new to adding electrical accessories to a bike your default policy should be to avoid swapping fuses for another with a higher amperage rating until you've determined the draw needed and consulted a reference to determine the appropriate gauge wire.

/Nanny   

Some have mentioned it, you can find a number of threads via search. Haven't had the light on the FJ-09. But, the first Yamaha I owned with an oil level sensor did once. Even tho the manual calls the oil level lines at the sight glass min and max IME they want the level to be only showing a bit below max when checked following the procedure in the manual. Since I started following that rule haven't seen it again.

40 minutes ago, betoney said:

Look for a compressor that has an SAE connector, same as your battery tender.  My battery tender lead is connected to my battery permanently, when I'm not riding over the winter, I plug in the tender, my heated vest also uses an SAE plug - very convenient.

Also a fan of the two pin SAE connectors as they take little space on the bike and make nice quick disconnects when you have five motorcycles but only one expensive GPS cradle, heated gear, etc. If accessories don't come with them I add my own inline. For those that don't already own a compressor more are showing up with these options lately:

1 hour ago, ryanyoule said:

Is it worth fitting an on/off rocker switch on the positive so the lead doesn't stay constantly 'hot'? 

I'm thinking of keeping this outlet under the passenger seat, out of the way, and for use in emergencies anyway, therefore, won't be used that often.

Thanks for all your input chaps.

Ry

If it's only purpose is the compressor you could just get rid of the compressor's male cig connector and replace with battery clamps or use a female cig-to-clamp adapter which are available on Amazon and most auto parts stores.