chitown

1 hour ago, OLD DVB said:

Nope - the exact same reasoning applies with progressive springs too.  They also sink to exactly the same point till they support the bike weight even though it is tempting to think otherwise.

This is a bit of a semantics issue but probably shouldn't pollute this thread any further. I'd just direct folks to Traxxion Dynamics "Suspension For Mortals"  video series on youtube for a good discussion of the topic from a reputable source that's also a vendor here.

Cheers!

18 minutes ago, OLD DVB said:

There is a danger of misunderstanding of the effects of adjusting fork and rear shock pre-loads.  This NEVER alters fork or shock hardness/softness, no matter that even Yamaha refer to it that way.  It ONLY changes the ride height or static sag.  Think about it.  The bike sinks on its springs until they support its weight.  Pre-load is what it says, it pre loads the springs to a greater or lesser extent but they still sink to the same spring compression point and thus act in exactly the same way every time.  It just happens at a different point in the suspension overall travel.  It is useful to increase preload if the suspension is using too much travel (bottoming) or the reverse if it not using enough.  The static sag has an effect on the attitude of the bike and its ground clearance and can effect the handling characteristics by changing the steering head angle, if that is what you want, as can moving the forks in the head clamps or changing the rear shock length.  The only way to change springing is with a different spring!

Trying to convince the internet is a losing battle

Also, with progressive rate springs it's not altogether incorrect to say adjusting preload is making it harder/softer. But you're right with straight rate all you're doing by increasing preload beyond desired sag is giving away suspension travel you could enjoy if sprung properly. 

While I haven't noticed this, and y'all have checked loose stuff, my next suspect would be centerstand. There's a rubber stop that exists only on the right. Perhaps you're getting some spring there on hard rear tire bumps? Easy to test with a zip tie and some good bumps  

13 hours ago, donk said:

That’s a bummer. Both that it happened and for WIX. If I wasn’t so cheap I’d cut a few different filters in half to see what the difference is in case thickness. I’ve always used OEM or HiFlo filters without a problem, don’t know why I have it in my head to change now?  Mid bike crisis?

HiFlo is my preference for motorcycle applications and have been known to abuse em  

Been using Wally SuperTech premix for years now. Normally that would make me feel like a glutton for convenience but at Wally prices and bike radiator capacity it's nearly guilt free  

My carb'd Yamahas (and other brands) were buttery smooth so guessing this refers mainly to FI.

'05 FJR, stock fueling, buttery smooth. '09 Versys was too. But consider the nature of those bikes vs my two high torque FI bikes, '08 KTM SuperDuke and '15 FJ-09. 

Definitely notice the transitions to on/off throttle more but not certain how much is rider vs bike. Would probably need more experience with high torque FI bikes from other brands to judge. Don't seem to have the same opinion of "jerky" as the general population on message boards maybe that's just my throttle control or maybe I don't know what I'm missing

On 9/22/2019 at 1:08 AM, Dodgy Knees said:

Speaking to a friend of mine on Friday, ex racer, he says just ride it normally. All engines are power tested at max revs in factory. To check all is good I suppose. Avoid long full throttle and just ride normal, varied revs.

This. 

The internet is full of a lot of break-in info, much of it not applicable to new bikes but for bikes made decades ago when manufacturing techniques and tolerances were vastly different. My personal take is avoiding lugging or prolonged operation at a constant setting till the first oil change but that's it. 

Been known to purchase new and take to the track for rev limiter abuse or on cross country trips. Tend to keep new bikes for 40-50k miles and then get the itch for something else. Most get sold to friends and family who keep me updated (or better, offer me beer to help with valve checks and maintenance). Got word that my '08 SuperDuke track bike got sold to owner number 3 at 90k trouble-free miles recently. Similar report for my '09 Versys at 80k miles.

Ride It Like You Stole It And Worry Less

20 hours ago, flyfifer said:

So Chitown have you actually got the bags as flagged up by the OP?

I am well aware of the problems/benefits? of using multiple bags in the Panniers.

Similar design from a different ebay seller. Returned for refund after some test packing. 

That's a bummer. Mine has similar amount of total mileage but I'm rarely above 160 kph on the road... can see it would get pretty stressed at 200 kph. Would probably look for something thicker at those speeds. 

40 minutes ago, flyfifer said:

Can you get more in the panniers using these bags --- than trying to fill the pannier on the bike ??

No but they do make it easier to load and make carrying things to room/tent easier since you don't have the weight of the hard cases to lug around. They reduce capacity a bit because they take up space and IME can lead to over-packing because they expand when over-stuffed. But if you're not that type they may make sense for you.

I actually don't need everything out of my cases at most stops (eg tools should be stored at the bottom of side cases for better center of gravity and they don't need to come out at evening stops).  Went with another option -- ripstop nylon bags (Aerostich LP Bags in my case). EG I typically have 2-3 of these bags in each case and only need to take one or two off the bike in the evening. 

Great value in used FJs right now.

I'd have to upgrade suspension on any of the choices. I don't run side bags, cruise isn't a deal breaker for me, heated grips integrated with the dash can be done for 50ish bucks. Going by comments here they all need shields and seats (tho I like my stock FJ seat). There just aren't any must haves for me in the upgrade to a newer model GT or otherwise. So I'd be shopping for a used FJ with some of those upgrades already done. 

EG I see a '15 FJ advertised over on the fz1oa. Asking $6500,  only 4000 miles, MC Cruise, Sargeant seat, vstream, Shad tail trunk. Relatively cheap airfare to fly and buy destination in middle of country (Iowa) before end of riding season. Upgrade suspension. Let someone else eat the cost of depreciation and as many upgrades as possible  

Ymmv. 

1 hour ago, Clegg78 said:

Do you consider the Tracer to be high CoG?  it feels and handles like a very low and compact CoG compared to most other STs out there (the older the ST the worse the CoG is!)     Figure I would ask because I am amazed at how nicely composed the Tracer is for his heft. 

I do. But my emphasis is the sport in sport touring and seek out technical stuff. If I get on an interstate during a trip I've failed. Twisty Butt > Iron Butt  Tracer handling is ok with suspension upgrades. But I immediately notice any addition of sprung weight or anything that adds surface area -- in part because of the light weight compared to other bikes. When loaded fuel and rider are carried higher than most street bikes I've ST'd such as RF900, FZ1, FJR. And, higher than other "adv look" bikes like the Versys. All of those bikes handle better. But that's not to say the Tracer is bad, it just could be better. And that's more an issue with geometry than CoG alone. Ymmv.

Have seen this before online with do it all motorcycles. Current owners that actively post on forums want more touring oriented features. Manufacturers are more concerned about drawing new riders and don't see value in making the bikes more narrow in purpose when they already have touring oriented models.

IMO more bodywork and larger tank on a bike that already has poor aeros and high CoG probably wouldn't improve the experience. Vibe issues are very rider dependent. Good thing is with a chain drive owners change sprockets to what suits them. Fancy displays are nice but don't factor into my purchase decision  

Given the cycle of releases lately I'd guess if anything it might be BNG! (Bold New Graphics!).

As said above it's in the manual. Green and orange. Keep reading

Romeo Tango Foxtrot Mike

How did your rotor get bent? Could that have also bent other items? Rim etc?

Warped (bent) rotors IME have only ever made me notice under braking -- but my experience is limited and that could vary by how badly it's warped. While there may be other issues/causes seems like getting that squared away first is logical. 

Not sure I could find a Yamaha dealer that would (or that I'd want to) try to diagnose an issue that only happens at 90 mph  

Although 49 can be nice in many stretches it can also be trafficky. One option for the above route is to do Quincy-La Porte as an in-and-out from 70 down to Little Grass Valley and back. Maximizes the technical stuff and minimizes traffic. I also usually throw in Gold Lake Hwy. Los Dos Hermanos in Sierraville is a nice lunch stop. 

Sweet, I'll be up there with a group of friends soon so we've timed up it well  

You don't say how much you're exceeding it by. Up to a point spring upgrades alone can be the remedy. At a certain point the other internals may need to be upgraded as well.

I recommend calling a suspension shop. Be prepared to give them the weight of rider and passenger in gear and any cargo. They should be able to explain your options.

I've watched rangers in multiple parks target any motorcycle other than cruisers. Stalking them for miles and writing speeding tickets with zero tolerance. I avoid them.  

The GT fiche indicates it uses  93900-00030-00, Valve, Rim (Tr412) TAIHEIYO, the same part number as all my Yamahas since 2000, and it's 11.3mm -- the most common size for Japanese street bikes.

8.3mm are also sold by most moto suppliers and is generally for European, after market, a few older Japanese bikes, etc. Cruisers and BMWs are sometimes special unto themselves. 

This guide at KurveyGirl also covers the broad strokes:

14 hours ago, texscottyd said:

True.  But with the careless use of a heat gun, you can absolutely Ctrl+Z a hard copy manual.  Don’t ask me how I know this... 

Haven't heat gunned one yet but loaned one out to a buddy doing forks and the forks assembly page came back with more fork oil stains than legible diagrams or text. DIY spring compressor accident

Nah. 5k is all I get out of touring rears if I'm doing my usual thing. I can nearly double that by riding only interstate, 55 mph, short shifting, avoiding acceleration and braking.

In both cases wear accelerates when I run it less than 42.

Afaik, you're stuck. I used grip puppies.

Doesn't say right/left in the parts lookup I used but I'd guess the more expensive is the throttle side due to the tube. These are yocracing prices. 

(1MC-82960-00-00) GRIP, WARMER
  View    Compare
   Price  $185.99       
(1MC-82960-10-00) GRIP, WARMER
  View    Compare
   Price  $138.99   

I've got the full oem kit I removed from my bike that were used for  < 10k miles, always covered with grip puppies. I'd sell the whole shebang to you for less than that. PM if interested.