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rodb47

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Posts posted by rodb47

  1. 12 hours ago, texscottyd said:

    Sorry to hear about your issues... that’s a really bad design with the stock axle blocks.  

    I have the Gilles Tooling adjusters on mine. Beautifully made, work great, and a bit more subtle than the LightTechs.   They’re still around if you search a bit...  here’s a vendor that showed up in a quick search for $130: 

     

    Thanks. Almost pulled the trigger on these. Found them for that price on Fleabay. Ended up getting the black non-flashy Lightechs. Anything to make chain maintenance easier. I've spent my life wrenching, time to ride. I was going to do the Chinese knock off versions but I'd rather pay for the original with known quality. 

    • Thumbsup 1
  2. 3 hours ago, mellow said:

    I changed my mind on the 2 RI pods... looks too 'tracer 9T Dash' like to me ... ha!!!!

    So, went with this... not as many lumens as the 2 pods but still quite useful and since the bar connects the 2 mounting points I feel it's a more solid install.

     

    IMG_20201120_050639.jpg

    I drive at night. Thinking of doing something like this. I was thinking Denali DM 2.0. They are expensive though. Might do a light bar.

    • Thumbsup 1
  3. 11 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

    I ADDED FRONT TS/RL TO THE REAR WITH 3RD WIRE AND LED DUAL FUNCTION F & R WITH TWIN FRONT DRIVING & L&R SIDE  MARKER LIGHTS + AUXILIARY LED STOP STRIP ON BACK EDGE OF SHAD TOP CASE RACK.

    COUP DE GRACE IS A KISAN LED DEADLIGHT MODULATOR & HI-LO TWIN FIAM HORNS  WHEEL RIM TAPE SOCKS TOO

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    I need to add this to mine. I have the same LEDs. Amber on the front just forward of the fake honeycomb side vent and red on the metal piece holding the rear fender and license plate. The reds get covered up by my side cases. Nice job.

  4. On 7/25/2020 at 8:27 AM, huck said:

    2WKLOZK,  I had my bike flashed first, but as stated, this problem was not solved. The Booster Plug did solve it. 

    In regard to your question regarding flashing. I had a fairly extensive email conversation with Lars, at Power Plug who suggested that this unit was indeed a stand alone product and that one did not "Need" the flash. You may want to discuss this directly with the the power plug folks. I di, and found them to be very responsive and very thorough in answering questions.  However, since I had the flash done first I can't reply with personal experience. Why not do the plug first and see if you are happy with the result. It carries a full money back warranty if you are not happy. You can get a list of what the flash does address. The flash does address several other issues, but you may not care about those specifics. Do give this a try, it really is easy to instal, and it really works. 

    I personally experienced a slight increase in milage. But, that might have been because I no longer needed to use higher RPMs in lower gears to try and overcome the stumbles. 

    I am not associated with this company, but I am a big fan. 

    I'm going to consider this for my 2017 FJ. I had a flash done which helped a lot but didn't fix the low speed aspect. I am not happy with the on/off properties of the throttle.

    • Thumbsup 1
  5. 2 hours ago, Michiel900GT said:

    I had my seat adjusted today. Did it with the previous Tracer 900 GT and decided to do it again with the new one.

    I had two things adjusted: flatten the curve of my seat and had it filled with gel.

    The first picture is after the foam for the seat was placed. They then created a place to add the gel and filled it with medical grade gel.

    They covered it all with a thin layer of foam and placed the original seat cover back.

    The good thing is it "only" cost me around 250 euro. Much less though than a Bagster seat.

    Let us know how it worked.

  6. 17 hours ago, betoney said:

    I had read about using spacers to extend the screen from the mount to allow airflow behind the screen.  (possibly to eliminate a vacuum, dead air or buffeting? who knows).  Supposedly it is the same principal as screens that have slots cut in them to allow airflow.  Its worth a shot right? no risk, no reward.

    I went to the hardware store and bought various spacers, washers, nuts and longer mount bolts, maybe $12 total.  I mixed them with existing parts from the hardware provided with the Parabellum Fly screen.  The spacers are 1" long.

    image.png.26e78c8484807138931c3cb44055c5b1.png

    I made an adjustable top holder to accommodate any length spacer I may end up using, but I don't see going longer than 1".  The rubber bumper was reused from the Parabellum hardware and has seen better days as it is cracked from the sun exposure.

    image.png.fdc480cf99fab8e0565049c9bf351fe6.png

    1" spacers installed and screen offset, allowing air underneath. 

    image.png.b00ff596821a4604a141c3cc63ef8d73.png

    I haven't been on the bike lately, recovering from surgery on my arm, so I wont get a chance to road-test it for awhile.  Worst cast scenario, I hate it and remove the spacers, it might take 5 minutes to put everything back to how I originally had it.  If I cant be out riding, at least I was able to play around in the garage today. 🤷‍♀️

    I did this same thing with my Puig Touring screen and got zero benefit. Went back to stock hardware.

    • Thumbsup 2
  7. On 6/27/2020 at 8:03 AM, Toddtr said:

    I have never owned a torque wrench and probably never will. I do my own wrenching and have never had any issues with anything that I’ve ever messed with. Now I haven’t rebuilt a complete motor before but have replaced one before with another. Do most of you really torque everything to exactly what the book says? Maybe I’ve been lucky all these years but I don’t see me purchasing one unless it’s absolutely required. 

    Yes. Especially if the hardware is attached to wheels and or brakes. There is a reason for torques. Not to mention it's a motorcycle so you only have two wheels holding you up. If you've gotten away with German torque, more power to you.

    • Thumbsup 1
  8. 12 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

    It's for sure tacky.  Absolutely.  But I'm really looking forward to the brake light mode - dark normally, all red when I hit the brakes.  People are inattentive, and I'm really, REALLY not interested in getting rear ended.  However, I really don't like how brake modulators work (from all the times when I'm following someone with them), so... Nice alternative.  And when I'm out on a group ride in the evening, I can make her all glowy in the lineup of bikes 😃 

    But yeah, it's definitely tacky!

    I like how the slow transition looks and I see you have it shining through the tank vent panel thing. Looks good. 

  9. 15 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

    Awesome!   I'm fine with the stock setup (running in front), and just using the same bulbs front and rear.  I suppose a stock set of front indicators would work in the rear to add running in the rear too though.   Thanks!

     


    I got to thinking about LED's today, and remembered I had this set in a box, from an aborted project 2 bikes ago.  The remote needs a super obscure 27A battery - spent a bit of time googling around for it, just to realize it's a tiny 12v battery.  12v!  So, the remote is gonna get hardwired to the bike's battery, and I'm going to run a couple buttons to the handlebars soldered to the board.  

    I did this thing, then:

    270616594_Ididapurplething.thumb.jpg.d317f19f64717b5eac9f1f82527f2f39.jpg368523841_Andabluething.thumb.jpg.75e861c9a713ff0269894addecab5e38.jpg

    And, of course, because if you're going to do something incredibly dumb, you need to go All The Way:

    They all turn red when you press on the brake pedal, too, because why not?  Just mocked up right now (wiring all on top of the bike as I move stuff around to test it out) but I think I'm gonna keep this.  

    I used to think this was tacky an only belonged on Goldwings. But after almost being broadsided a few times at night, I'm thinking about doing this. 

    • Thumbsup 1
    • Haha 1
  10. On 10/16/2019 at 4:26 PM, maximo said:

    Ugh, good luck, these things can be so pesky!  I had something similar on my BMW; I couldn’t find anything, mechanic couldn’t find anything, yet we could all experience it. I had given up until someone suggested some sort of voodoo trick, which fixed it right away. 

    The trick FWIW was this: with the ignition on, but not running, open the throttle all the way, then close it, and repeat it five times. Then turn off the ignition, wait 30 seconds, and start the bike as normal.  Fired right up and the surging was gone for good.

    Just saw this. Is this a "Hey try this" or an actual reset from yamaha?

  11. 17 hours ago, jamespansbro@yahoo said:

    Did my 600 mile oil and filter change myself

    Both Yamaha dealers wanted $350. I figure much of that cost would be labor to synch fuel injectors. The engine is running fine and I won't have it done now . Every 4000 miles? No way mr. Yamaha! They must have used a power tool to install the oil filter

     I resorted to using a giant channel lock pliers to get it off

    .Overall I am very happy with my base tracer900

    Synching the throttle bodies is super easy on a tracer. You should get the synch gauge. You just have to remove all the body work and fuel tank yourself. That's the hard part. I bought this one but there are other brands out there. Lots of how to videos too.

    $_62.JPG?set_id=8800005007

    Find great deals for CARBTUNE PRO 4 COLUMN CARBURETOR...

     

    • Like 1
  12. 3 hours ago, texscottyd said:

    Because the yellow is too subtle, right?  :D  

    If memory serves, it’s an updated, shaft drive version of the NT650 Hawk GT hiding under all that Elite On Steroids bodywork.   Should be bulletproof, once you do the basics to get it back on the road...  carbs, brakes, remove mice from airbox, etc 

    From what I've read in the interwebs, it's a shaft drive version of the Africa Twin 750 (XRV 750).  At least the engine from that bike. The yellow really helped while commuting. Never had anyone cut me off or pull into my lane after that paint job. I can do a rebuild. I just have to commit.

    • Thumbsup 1
  13. 50 minutes ago, keithu said:

    A friend of mine owned a motorcycle salvage yard in Eugene. He said the PC800 was the one bike that almost never came through the salvage system. They don't die on their own, and the people who buy them don't tend to wreck them. 

    Yeah. I basically killed mine by letting it sit. I couldn't ride for years because of a medical issue. It needs a complete rebuild top to bottom. I want to do it but have never attempted such a thing. I would love to ride that AND my FJ.

  14. 2 hours ago, keithu said:

    People criticized Honda because by their own admission the Pacific Coast was designed to attract non-motorcyclists into the showrooms. Well why not? Who do you think the "You meet the nicest people on a Honda" campaign was aimed at? One of the most practical motorcycles ever made, too bad more people didn't buy it.

    I see them around still. There is quite a rabid following of this bike though it's small. Practical is the word. This is the Civic or Accord of Honda bikes. If I ever get it running, I'm going to pimp it out. Lol

  15. 5 hours ago, maximo said:

    Call me an oddball, but I've always loved the look of the PC800. In fact, that was part of the reason I got the ST1100, it's because it reminded me of the PC. 

    I still have it, but it's in bad shape. Sat in a shed for 12 years. This was a practically maintenance free bike. Great commuter. Always got comments and questions about it. Especially after the yellow paint job. I saw a low mileage one for sale near me. Thought about it.

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