fj09viking

Not what I did today, but this week. Made a 1,700 miles round trip to Seattle (was going on a road trip anyway) to have my ECU custom tuned/updated by 2 Wheel Dynoworks for addition of my exhaust and using non-ethanol 91octane. Bike is running fantastic. Can't believe how big of a difference getting bike tuned made for the addition of Comp Werkes slip-on. 108hp at rear wheel with dual sport tire, which would translate to about 113hp with stock or street rear tire. So a 10hp gain from stock at rear wheel with tune and exhaust is not bad. That said, I was more concerned with bike running properly, and as mentioned it is running great. Highly recommend those guys for both the mail in service, or custom tune if can make it there. I asked about a thousand questions by email and phone, which they quickly and patiently answered.

That sounds like a good idea and would be a big improvement. I might do that and move the CNCs to the rear of the bike over the winter. Right now I only have the Motodynamic integrated tail light, mainly because I did not see any turn signals that I liked, and that would clear both my Givi side cases and the outer edge of the larger Canadian license plate. I also installed the DB killer in my Comp Werkes exhaust today. Still sounds good and my neighbours will hate me a little less no doubt!

Will do. Have to go educate myself in how to post a video and had a very long day, but give me a day or two. FYI they do not double as running lights. Turn signal function only, look clear when off as per my picture and flash bright orange. Lens/light wrap around outer part of turn signal. So posting pictures won't really do them justice. In the meantime here is another picture.

Replaced Motodynamic flushmounted front turn signals with CNC Racing Sky turn signals. Used Evotech mounting brackets (required drilling out to 10mm, but available from same shop as lights, so free shipping), TST connectors, TST relay. All straight forward except wire colors were reversed on TST connectors, which I only discovered after wiring everything together. I did plug into bike and discover before reassembly of sidepanels and bike, so no biggie. Nothing new here, but as great as the Motodynamic turn signals look, they are not very visible from the front. Not a safety issue, but every time I went to turn right off a street if there was a vehicle waiting to pull out from right side, they would sit there until I started my turn, which told me they could not see turn signals or was questioning what they were looking at. Someone that does not ride cant be expected to know where to look on a bike for turn signals either. The fact that half of the lights are dedicated to running light and half to turn signals does not help either. If everything flashed when using as turn signals it would have helped. It is also an invitatation for the police to pull you over of course.

I am in Canada. I found M5 40mm and 50mm at a shop. 55mm is obviously a non standard length so I'd have to get 60mm and cut it, but they were out. That said, at least 15mm of the 50mm screw is threaded in to the top part of the cover of the housing with blue threadlock, so it's not going anywere. Heck, it was only when removed a 2 x 1/2 strip of velcro that was glued to top and bottom cover for my garage opener that I realized screws were gone. They have probably been missing for at least two weeks! Thanks again for sharing that info!

Thanks for the tip! That is greatly appreciated. According to your tip they are 40 and 55mm respectively, which sounds about right. The diameter and thread type I can get from other side needless to say, but none of the 4 screws holding the left and housings together are the same length. Plan B was to go to a bolt supply store and get a handful of various length screws of the same diameter and thread type. Apologies for diagram. The link isn't showing properly for me either but does open when I click on the bottom portion. Thanks again.

Does anyone know the length for screws 15 and 16 in the exploded view in link below (partzilla)? They either fell out or I inadvertently threw them out as I very recently got rid of a bunch of unidentified hardware. I have ordered OEM screws from Yamaha but doubtful they will have them before I go on a four day road trip in a week.

The bike definitely felt more planted with increased preload front and back, but as mentioned, the firmer I set it, the lower the speed at which handlebar shakes was introduced, especially during hard acceleration in 3rd and 4th gear. I do not doubt what you are saying, as even the tires and smoothness of the pavement has proven to make a big difference in my case, as has strong, gusty crosswinds. I also figured that if softening the front was reducing the shimmy tendency, increasing preload at the rear might help, but it also had the opposite effect. So my theory for a while was that the bike having an inherently light front end, amplified during acceleration or strong headwind, and as a result the front wheel is susceptible to sideways forces caused by uneven road surface and strong crosswinds etc. However, the further I sit up and back in my seat, the higher the speed at which the shimmy will be introduced, so my original theory does not necessarily hold water, or is at least leaking. So aerodynamics probably has a lot to do with this as well, in addition to suspension, tires, rider size and weight etc, as riding in gusty winds turbulence behind other vehicles causes shimmy to rear its ugly head at a much lower speed than if I am by myself in calm winds and no traffic. With my current set up the bike is perfectly stable up until 110-115mph in normal conditions. I rarely go faster than that anyway, and ok with it (my tires are only speed rated to 130mph). If I went to touring or street tires I am guessing that the before mentioned speeds would increase a fair bit.

I am a tall and heavy guy as well. 6'4" and 240lbs. I raised my forks 15mm ( a little at a time) which helped a lot, while leaving my spring preloads at same settings (12-14mm front and setting 4 at rear). I also found that softer the suspension settings (rear and front preload), the higher the speed is that I can ride before bike becomes unstable (handlebar shakes). Once my forks had been raised 15mm and I left them there, I started increasing front preload 2mm at a time with test rides in between. Instability became progressively worse as I increased preload. At back I set it to 5 which also aggravated things and now ride with setting 3. As mentioned in an earlier post, putting tires on which has a much more aggressive tread pattern than stock (dual sport), it reduced the speed at which the bike would become unstable by 20-40 mph depending on road surface conditions. All I could figure was that the courser tread pattern is more susceptible to rough surfaces (old pavement with cracks and ruts), which also aggravates stability issue and lowers the speed that it would set in on. Strong, gusty crosswinds don't help either, nor does handguards, especially in traffic between other vehicles.

Intended to post pic of whole bike as well. Here it is.

Made it louder, a lot louder as it turns out! Installed Comp Werkes GP Slip-on. Also pimped it out a bit. Gold PSR rear brake fluid reservoir to match bar ends and forks. That is it for bling!

They are Shinko 705's. Don't like to go off topic, but since I did not post when I installed them a few weeks ago I will add some general comments. First set and very happy after approximately 2,500 miles. An acquaintance and avid adventure bike rider for many years recommended them. That and this review with tires on an FZ-07: Shinko 705 ADV Tires Tested ... He has tried every dual sport tire under the sun and kept going back to these. Have a lot of gravel fire and lumber roads in the mountains around here, hence my choice. No vibration (except below 10mph but who cares) and great traction on all surfaces, wet or dry ( haven't been in mud yet). Tracks well in loose gravel. Needed a little more effort in cornering than stock, and to be expected. After raising forks (for more than one reason) cornering takes less effort that stock tires did with factory fork height. An added and unexpected bonus is that tires are not fazed at all by ruts, sealed cracks in pavement etc that tended to push stock tires around at low and high speeds. For $200-220 for the set it is hard to argue. I looks like I will get at least 6,000 miles from rear tire.

It is a 170/60R17 and fits perfectly. Speedometer will under-read by 1-2%.

Thanks micah2074. Your setup did grab my attention when I was going through the earlier parts of this thread. I do not have the handguards on at the moment, so unless I install them again It is not an option needless to say. The lanyard is probably not necessary as I was doing high speeds over rough pavement this morning and the remote did not budge, but will leave it while I gain confidence in the velcro. When looking at the bike as a whole the lanyard does not stick out like the sore thumb it appears to be in the picture I posted, being blue and all. It was a quick solution as I seen the $1.49 lanyard when standing in line to pay for the velcro. I could make it cleaner by securing to the bar instead. All that said, when it gets cold and guards go on I will do something along the lines of what you did.

Got tired of getting on and off my bike several times a day to open and close garage door, so I purchased a Chamberlain mini remote, some industrial strength velcro, and a lanyard, which is clipped on to ignition key ring. Lanyard is multi purpose. It should prevent a fiasko in the event that the remote comes loose while riding and in case I forget to remove it, or the key, while parked anywhere other than my garage. I may very well install a button and wire to a garage remote under seat over the winter, but wanted to do something, even if only temporary. Also added a couple of simple Yamaha decals. Removed the original ones, not because I didn't like them, but rather because I like plain, simple look and wanted to see what bike looked like without them, fully prepared to replace with OEM decals, which I might also do eventually. Original decals were off for a few weeks but I wanted to see what the ones I added today look like. If I collect a dollar every time someone asks me "is that a Tracer?" (it is a '17 FJ-09), I will have money for replacement OEM decals in no time!..... and yes I was getting that question regularly even when original decals were still on. Edit: Apologize for picture quality. I see now after posting that I got carried away with compressing.

6'4", 32" inseam. Stock was brutal, so I got a V-Stream Sport Touring screen. Huge improvement but still got some buffeting/turbulence over top part of helmet regardless of height adjustment. I cut down stock shield into a shorty and had smooth air flow but noisy for hwy commute and lot of air pushing on torso in general. So after a lot of research here on the forum and elsewhere I purchased a Puig Racing screen and love it. Air hits shoulders and helmet is in clean air. Surprisingly quiet. Much quieter than the stock shorty I made. I may get a clip on spoiler/deflector for the V-Stream for long trips, but don't think I will need it, and not a fan of the idea of having to swap out the mounting hardware every time I want to switch screens. I have done 250 miles or more in a day with Puig screen and did not feel that the noise or wind was causing any amount of fatigue.

Hi everyone. Been lurking for a few weeks. Took me a month and cost me about $1,500 to read the first 326 pages to get caught up! Learned a ton thanks to everyone's contributions. Installed Sato Racing bar ends and eBay shorty levers. Happy with both. More play in levers than I'd like, but I guess that is why they were $30 and not $150. Did bar ends as part of removing hand guards as I found that bike became unstable on hwy in turbulence from other vehicles. Took it out for a ride and can say it definitely made a difference. I have also raised forks 15mm to help alleviate stability issues at higher speeds and that made a big difference as well.

Newbie member and first post. Don't laugh too hard! I was having wobble issues on my '17 FJ (got bike at the end of last summer). Was only happening at high speeds that I rarely see so I wasn't to worried about it, and it was more of an issue on rough pavement and/or in strong, gusty wind conditions. However, after swapping stock tires for Shinko 705s with much more aggressive tread pattern, wobble would set in at speeds as low as 75 mph under right conditions. Not acceptable needless to say. Did some research and decided to try raising forks first, based on other riders experiences with this issue. I raised forks 1/10" at a time and went for test rides. I have now raised forks .5" and wobble tendency is non existent below 115 mph, and when it sets in it is a much more gradual and milder version. I will likely lower forks another 1/10-2/10" and see what effect it has. A pleasant surprise and bonus was how much better cornering and and handling is, as well as stability in general. I still have much to do with suspension, which i am sure will improve things further. I have noticed a couple other factors in all of this. For the heck of it I increased rear shock preload from 4 to 5 and and it reduced the speed at which wobble came on by 20 mph. I have set rear shock preload to 3 now, and is much better again. That seems to support the theory that this bikes rear end is too rigid right out of the crate. Sitting up and back helps as well, while leaning forward when wobble would start setting in would aggravate the situation. The harder i accelerate, the lower the speed it would happen at well, which makes sense. As mentioned, I have much playing around to do with suspension yet, but ok with where things are for the time being. My tires are only speed rated to 130 mph in any case and rarely go north of 80-90 mph.